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Yellow Leaves

TagX1
TagX1started grow question a year ago
The yellowing don’t stop.. Can anyone help me please?
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Week 6
Leaves. Edges burnt
Leaves. Veins - stay green
Leaves. Color - Yellow
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Sciolistic_Steve
Sciolistic_Steveanswered grow question a year ago
bc there is 1 clear symptom and not a plethora of issues, it's more like a k-deficiency as previously states. pH and nute lockout typically causes more than one visible problem. A nute that only has 1 relationship (antagonistic or stimulative) might only show 1 symtpom, but if you look at Mulder's Chart, you see most have several concurrent relationships. they are a little slutty floating around interacting with anything that crosses their paths and the right physical and chemical properties to do so... little sluts. bwahahaha. (generless term here, as molecules can be entantiomers but do not have a sex)
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Sciolistic_Steve
Sciolistic_Steveanswered grow question a year ago
oh, i would also argue that if the plant is using the nutes faster, you should provide more of those nutes. that's how you fine-tun your formula. this shouldn't happen within a few grows using any self-respecting fertilizer brand for soilless or hydro. these methods take all the guessing out of nutrients needed for the most part. light burn would be a reason to adjust your light. if no symptoms of burning (singed pistils turn from hair-like to a small yellowish nub, for example, or burns on the leaves themselves that usually start interveinal and get worse, wilting during light hours is another sign of too much light) So, if you took notes of progression, make a game plan for the next grow trying a small adjustment preemptively. Somethings take weeks to play out not just a day or two. it just depends on the speed of progression which tells you the magnitude of your reaction. I was playing around with P ppm, ceteris paribus, and it took nearly 7-8 weeks to see clear symptoms compared to previous levels. i've since dialed P back to previous concentration. Because i didn't change anything else, i know P was the only thing involved. I've long since dialed in a plant for nutes seed to harvest, but due to the relationships between nute molecules, pH, and varying local environmental variables, there are severa 'formulas' that can work well from seed to harvest. 1 is measurably better, i'm sure, but not something you can discern with the human eye and small samples.
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Mr_Incognito
Mr_Incognitoanswered grow question a year ago
I think it’s a classic Potassium deficiency, but you don’t need to increase nutes level. The reason can be a strong light that increases transpiration, and forces mobile elements to be used in a higher rate. It’s hard to fix, since the leaves are already damaged. I would not worry too much. Just keep pH and EC at current level. If you’d like to treat the deficiency, tea from banana peel is a good solution for organic grow. Nirvana from AN is a good source of K as well.
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Terp_Djiny
Terp_Djinyanswered grow question a year ago
Ich denke der pH im Boden ist aus der Reihe. Spül die mal mit dem richtigen pH Wert durch und miss den rinseout. EC prüfen macht bei Biologischem Dünger nicht viel Sinn.
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