Leaves at bottom of plant starting to dry out and ...

It's looking great mate!👍 I reckon you just don't have enough light and airflow for something that large? Is the light powerful enough? Does it need some light lollipopping to help airflow and divert energy to the rest of the plant?

I can see from your pics that you have a lot of branches down bellow and a lot of bud sites not receiving any light at all. Also the dead looking fan leaves could also be from this reason. Next time consider stripping the bottom branches of scrap and all fan leaves just before flower or going into flower. Also stripping fans during flower is a good practice too. This will allow air flow also around your plant and to push its power into creating lovely juicy top nugs. I have stopped using PH in soil as i use advanced nutrients grow A/B which is PH perfect at 7. Over the years i find PH down doesn't do the plants much good and soil is much more forgiving then NFT, HYDRO or COCO.

Hi Walleyeguy Nutrient burn is one of the very common beginner cannabis growing problems. The yellow or brown leaf tips are caused by too-high levels of nutrients at the roots, which disrupts the flow of water through the plant and causes the symptom of burnt tips on leaves. When the roots take in more nutrients than a cannabis plant can use, the overabundance causes problem with water flow in the plant, triggering brown or bronze “burns” on the tips of your leaves. If nutrient levels are not lowered, the burnt tips start traveling inwards and the ends of leaves start becoming crispy and twisted. Nutrient burn can also manifest itself as brown or bronze spotting around the edges of the leaf serrations (often when there’s a problem with proper absorption of potassium) you can’t give your plants 10x the regular does of nutrients and expect anything good to happen. If you are feeding the wrong type of nutrients for the stage your plant is in, that is an easy way to give your plants lots of nutrient problems including nutrient burn. If you are using the wrong type of nutrients for a plant like cannabis, you will eventually run into nutrient problems, one way or another. Many nutrient systems come with instructions to feed your plant more nutrients than most plants actually need. It’s good business for the nutrient companies if you use more nutrients. However, in my experience it’s a good idea to view the feeding charts that come with any nutrient system as the maximum amount of nutrients and actually start with much lower levels. In hydro, it is very helpful to get a tool called a TDS meter to help you regulate the amount of nutrients in your water. A TDS meter will be able to tell you how much “stuff” is in the water, and whether the levels of nutrients are getting higher or lower each time you check. You can test your reservoir at any time to see if the levels of nutrients are rising, so you’ll be able to stop nutrient burn before it even affects your plants. If you don’t have a TDS meter to measure the levels of nutrients (and other extra stuff) in your water, I would normally start your plants with a fraction (perhaps 1/2) of the nutrients you were giving them before – and then work your way up to higher nutrient levels only if you notice the lower leaves are starting to yellow too quickly (nitrogen deficiency). Even then, try to move up nutrient levels as slowly as you can. If you lose leaves to a nitrogen deficiency from slightly too-low nutrient levels, you will lose a few of the least important lower leaves. But if you raise nutrient levels to fast and get nutrient burn, all the leaves on the whole plant will be affected and never recover fully. One of the things that can be frustrating about hydro is that different plants or strains will be okay with different amounts of nutrients. You can be giving 2 plants the exact same levels of nutrients, and one might get nutrient burn while the other plant is getting a deficiency at the same level. This is because different plants absorb the nutrients at different rates. Reduce the overall levels of nutrients in your water reservoir by either adding plain pH’ed water to dilute the water, or you could also mix up a new set of nutrients (at lower levels) and completely change the water. Be careful not to make big changes too fast, it’s better to go relatively slowly in hydro. In hydro, once you change the water and lower the nutrient levels to an appropriate level, you should immediately notice the nutrient burn stop spreading. Old leaves won’t recover, but you shouldn’t notice any leaves getting worse. Hope this helps and Good luck growing.

Hello! Just my 2 cents 😉 This can happen often in flower and you're going to be just fine. This leaf edge browning from the outside in is a solid symptom of a potassium deficiency, but I would wager that there's a phosphorus deficiency as well. Suggested actions would to do a flush through or feed with a higher dose of P/K/Cal and cut the nitrogen supplement somewhat (phosphorus and calcium are taken up at the same pH and work in close conjunction with one another). Also, I would ensure the the soil pH and your feeds are kicking around 6.1-6.4 ish. This soil pH will allow for optimal uptake of P/K/Cal and will stop other micronutrients (that may interrupt this uptake) from being taken up at lower pH levels. You're totally fine and she will be too👍. Properly pH'd soil and a tweaked feeding schedule and I'm certain she will be back to normal. Also, if those effected leaves are dead, I'd certainly remove them, just in case. Dead plant matter attracts bad Juju. Haha. Cheers and good luck! Hit me up in PM if you have anymore questions about deficiencie or feeding schedules if you'd like. I'll be kicking around 😉👍