Всем привет друзья! Что то я заробался, всё никак не находил время показать свою девочку. Куст мне очень нравится, с прекрасной генетикой. Всем добра и мира!

I changed my tent this week, the lamp and the Mars Hydro extractor convinced me that it was good gear so I took the tent in + 😀 Pulling all the branches with ropes is way too much work... I think I'll just pull the 2 main branches down and add a scrog net next week ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- -Water: tap water (280ppm). I add 0.7g/L of Grow mineral powder and 0.2g/L of Calcium to reach 820ppm and I adjust the ph to 5.8 -Daytime temperature: 29°C -Night temperature: 25°C -Humidity: 45-65% -Lamp: Mars Hydro FC3000. intensity 60% at 40cm from the top leaves -Room: Mars Hydro 100x100x180cm -Extractor: Mars hydro 402 CFM Max. power 2/10 -Substrate : 70% coco, 25% perlite, 5% vermiculite.

Slowly but surely she is fattening up and is turning yellow with splashes of red/pink, leds were a little too low or hps at the beginning of flowering damaged her fan leafs... Next time I will know better which is the cause. Smallish buds but those are coated with trichomes, sugar leafs too. Going to make some cannabutter! I think 1 or 2 more weeks before harvest depending how she looks, I want her Calyxes to mature fully before chopping her!

There are good genetics and there are genetic masterpieces. The Great Jefa is part of the second case. Truly exceptional. It is a plant that has vegetated in a graceful and regular manner, the 16 bud topping seems tailor-made for it, all 16 have been successful, I would say excellent. All this happened in a short time, I don't know if it's the topping but it was practically ready in 6-7 weeks I took it to 8 because it was still very colored with leaves but it was ready for all the rest of the signs. Milky trichomes and lots of amber ones this time I don't think anyone can accuse me of being early. Also because the advance sometimes saves lives from mold. In this regard, I would like to give the advice NOT TO DO TOO MUCH FLUSH, if the plant is already very mature, washing the roots would risk spoiling the tops. So my advice is to flush at the very first red hairs, when the flower starts to take the color away with the flush, you clean it up and finish composing the flower. The flowers are really full of resin, a wonderful foliage gave us shades of colors from dark purple to light green and the tips of all the buds and violet. The trichomes and hashish pulled off the gloves are scary. so much. lots and lots of resin. The family is sweet-sour, I know Money Maker very much like us and is embellished with Attitude's Californian genetic Runtz. Greenhouse feeding gave us satisfaction from start to finish with a clever use of Enancher. The plant is still colored because I added some bloom. A few words must be said for Greenhouse Seeds who, with this declaration work in partnership with the strains, is doing a pretty good job of clarity. Many strains are children of an unknown mother and this exposes them to a thousand defects. Strain motherfuckers aren't tough they're problematic. Congratulations to Greenhouse always masterpieces. My favorite from the new line of GHSC masters but the others are arriving... Music of the week Music for Plants 432 hz https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EZqEvMoS3w Seeds by the King this is a phenomaenal strain in featuring with Attitude seed Bank https://shop.greenhouseseeds.nl/feminised-cannabis-seeds/gran-jefa/ "I can see the light" https://marshydro.eu/negozio/?lang=it

Everything going well. Very fat flowers. Compost added on top of the soil. Final stages before harvest.

Buds bit squishy but covered with enough crystals had to harvest due to mould and to much died leaves had few smokes and it hits straight away nice smoth smoke with orange and almond taste. Damn im so hungry now! Happy growing people!

Replacement seeds not fairing well lol but chosen mothers are thriving

Aloha Freunde der Sonne 😊 Meine schönen Pflänzchen zeigen stolz Ihre Härrchen. Langsam fangen Sie auch an einen schönen Duft zu verteilen. Viel Spaß🙏

Día de cosecha y la verdad estoy muy contento con lo que veo, son hermosas estas flores y su fragancia exquisita. La planta tuvo una deficiencia de Cal/Mag, la que se corrigió a tiempo pero de igual manera afectó en su crecimiento y rendimiento, más allá de eso estoy feliz por las flores de calidad que tendré para degustar más adelante.

Ringrazio Seeds Mafia per avermi mandato questi semi sono veramente curioso di vedere come cresceranno! Gli ho tenuti tutti e tre per 2 ore a bagno in una soluzione di ormoni radicanti e acidi umici che poi ho messo diretto nel substrato…terriccio Biobizz light mix 🎥🌱💡

25 April 2021 Feeding schedule apparently needs to be adjusted. I initially watered the plant every 3-4 days, then as the plant grew it needed more as it dried out faster, or used water faster (however you choose to look at it). I started feeding every 2 days, but now it seems like it was dry again just 24 hours later. My wife pointed out that it looked dry, and it was, so right at the point the lights were to go out for the night, I decided to feed it again instead of waiting till tomorrow. Today starts week 4 of flower, so I adjusted the nutrients for the new week. Only a minor adjustment, but still an adjustment. I gave CALiMAGic 5ml, FloraMicro 7.5ml, FloraGro 2.5ml, and FloraBloom 12.5ml added to a gallon of water. Initial pH was 5.79. I added pH UP 2.5ml in two 1ml increments and then a .5ml addition which raised the pH to 6.42. That’s what I fed the plant, and the runoff pH was 5.79. As the lights went off during the feeding, I took the opportunity to take some pics in the dark using a flash to see how it looks without the strong LED’s overhead. I’m still trying to decide if I should trim away all of the smaller branches and leaves under the main canopy above the cargo net I have installed. I may ask the community for advice on this issue. I’m just unsure if the toll it will take on a plant at this stage of growth. 27 April 2021 The plant wasn’t all that dry yesterday, so I decided not to feed it until today. I’m seeing some funny orangish/rusty colored streaks on some of the leaves, but the rest of the leaves look fine. I’ve also found some more leaves with small holes or bite marks on them. I mainly see them on the smaller leaves, and not so much on the larger ones. The smaller buds under the cargo net that I was thinking about cutting off are fattening up like the rest of them above the cargo net. Not all of them, but a lot. I may still defoliate some of them, but I will probably keep any that look like they’ll fully mature. As far as nutrients go, I’m still following the feed chart from the other day. So; I gave CALiMAGic 5ml, FloraMicro 7.5ml, FloraGro 2.5ml, and FloraBloom 12.5ml. The initial pH was 5.86, and I added pH UP 2.5ml which elevated the pH to 6.45 which is what I gave the plant. The runoff water pH was 5.82. Temperature was 81 degrees, and relative humidity was 41. I’m going to try and only update my grow diary at the end of the week and add the weekly totals to the log to see if that makes more sense, or if I should keep doing it like I was before. Previously I edited the week after each feeding, so the totals on the log only show the nutrients and water amount for a single feeding, and doesn’t show an aggregate amount for the whole week. Since there are no instructions on the website I figured that I’d try it that way this week instead of how I was doing it. We’ll see what works best and go from there. 29 April 2021 I should have fed yesterday, but got busy and by the time I saw that it could be fed, it was time for lights out. I didn’t want to do that again, so I just waited till today. I also decided to cut off a couple of the smaller and uglier branches that didn’t have a lot of promise so that nutrients and water could be used elsewhere. The sugar leaves are getting sugary a little more each day. It’s like the leaves are frosted and it’s a lovely development. Seeing how all of the coated leaves have appeared this week, I feel it necessary to make a mental (as well as written) note about when to expect that in future grows. Today, as with the previous feedings this week, I added the following: CALiMAGic 5ml, FloraMicro 7.5ml, FloraGro 2.5ml, and FloraBloom 12.5ml. Initial pH was: 5.88. I added pH UP: 3ml, which adjusted the pH to 6.56. That is what I fed the plant today. I was thinking about something completely unrelated after I drained the runoff water/nutrients and poured it out before checking the runoff pH. My bad. The plant is looking great for the most part. Some tiny bite marks on a leaf here and there, but still no sign of what’s doing it. Also, some leaves have some weird rusty, orange looking lines on them, but just a few. So far so good though and I’m happy with its progress. 30 April 2021 Watering/feeding the plant again today because we’re going out of town for the weekend. I’m hoping to come back Sunday morning in order to feed again before 8pm when the lights go out. Today is the last feeding for this week, so I’ve been planning to input my data differently this week to see how it goes. Previously I’ve been adding all of the information after each feeding, so each new feed was overwritten by the previous feeding in the same week. This week I’m going to try and input all of the data for all of the feedings into a single entry to encompass the whole week as a whole. We’ll see how it goes.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Plantas sanitas 11 semanas. Se ven bien saludables con flores recinosas Y grandes.

This girl has bounced right back from those early magnesium deficiency. Glacial rock dust will be used in the future to mitigate this issue. Regardless we are about 9 days into flower now and the stretch is on. Daily ive been doing a light supercrop bending the tops over but been extra cautious not to snap anymore tops, already lost two from past weeks. Slight defoliation was necessary little to no air circulation was making its way through these 4 bushes. Let the smells begin! Cheers.

06/03/19 - These plants have grown so fast, normally at this stage my previous plants have been much smaller, only 14 days old and got a 8-9 wingspan on the fan leaves, I’m really happy I’ve turned to mills as I’ve had no faults with them yet, I did see a slight cal defiency on one of them but this was my own fault not the nutrients, I heard I dident have to add cal mag as their A&B had extra in it, but as I’m in coco I made a mistake but I’m hopeing that it’s gonna be a quick fix and they will be back to normal in the next few days 🤞🏻 09/03/19 - the gelatos seem like their doing fine, had a few brown specs but nothing progressed and it looks like their doing good. 12/03/19 - started to LST/leaf braid today as their already big enough for it and should be switching to flower at the end of next week

02/06/2021 She's growing! up to 7" now, i will take clones for outdoor season soon, so I topdress with blood meal I wouldn't usually be as aggressive but I want multiple clones for outdoor season going to be a big hit I think and I think she is heavy feeder? We will find out.

Had a productive week for growth and made a few improvements. Bud development has been great this week. The buds are filling in the gaps mostly and creating nice colas. My plan is for the next 2 weeks to feed AN Overdrive. Then flush for 2 weeks i think. She is very sticky and has a sweet smell of candy grape. Still not a blast of smell when i open the tent but smelling her close she's sweet :D I re tied all the outside colas to make them have even spacing again. The red poles were in need of some better reflection so i foil taped them. The sealed box for my carbon filter was made when i was using the cfl. The way i needed to hang the light meant the outlet from the sealed box into the tent could only be 4 inches in diameter. With the Cob Led, it's attached on the side poles, so decided to max out the outlet. It is the full 6inches and cooling is more efficient now. (Maybe i should try origarmi) The black clip on fan was touching the tent so not drawing air as well. Also made an annoying vibration if touching the tent wall. I used the extender i had on the side vertically and mounted it horizontaly. Has opened the tent out a bit and have free space behind the fan. Have add photos of all improvements. Checked on the outdoor grow and is looking good. Did improvements on it last week by adding a 'gate'. Had spotted deer when visiting previously so didn't want to take any chances. Attached photos from visit yesterday. Video is from week before when i did the gate and surround supports. Left plant Glue Gelato Auto is my friends. It's the same age as my Wed Cake but grown outdoors it's whole life. Right plant is Purple Punch auto which is mine. 4 weeks younger than my Wed Cake and Glue Gelato but started indoors and then planted outdoors. This spot was only for 1 plant originally but after the situation from the other spot we had to take the GG there. Thanks for checking my diary See you next week and happy growing

Semana 21 July - 27 July 22 July - feed day (only biobizz nutrition) 25 July - feed day bloombastic 0.5ml/l 27 July - feed day BioBizz