This week was really great except for some weather problem, cold is came a little bit earlier and i m still fixing something in the grow box. Roots are really large and strenght. Flowering started exactly in the 28 day. Let's go!

6/9 I can't believe it but I had faith. The transplant yesterday LOOKED like it was fucked. I cleaned it up though and left it outside. This morning it was standing straight up. Both transplants were! I put tarps up to block the wind tunnel between buildings. It's still overcast and rainy. Sun isn't supposed to come out for a couple poke days. Chance of thubder storms tomorrow but I'm going to try to get everyone in their forever homes today. Or at least most of them. I plan to light dep a few right in the 3 gallon. I'm sure I'll be updating this after I get some work done. UPDATE: I WENT OVER AND GOT THREE MORE TRANSPLANTED. THAT MEANS FIVE ARE OUTSIDE IN THE CAGE. TWO 10TH PLANET, 2 BLUEBERRY CHEESE AND A LITTLE PURPLE PUNCH. THE 3 GALLON POTS WERE RELATIVELY HEAVY SO I PICKED THE LIGHTER ONES TO TRANSPLANT. I LEFT THE ORHER TWO 10TH'S IN THE GARAGE WITH THE DOOR OPEN WITH THE REMAINING PLANTS. I ALSO ADDED WIND BREAKS AND SUPPORTS TO EVERYTHING. I WANTED TO GET EVERUTHING DONE TODAY BUT THERE MAY BE A THUNDER STORM SO IF I DONT GET IT DONE ITS NOT A BIG DEAL AND ILL FINISH TOMORROW. TRANSPLANTS WENT SMOOTH. I THINK THEY'LL GO EVEN SMOOTHER IF THEY DRY OUT A BIT. STILL HAVE THE 50 AND 40'S TO FILL. Took a bunch of videos but the don't want to load. I'll have to try tomorrow or later tonight. UPDATE: I TOOK TONS OF PICTURES AND VIDEOS BUT THEY DONT WANT TO SEEM TO UPLOAD. IVE GOT SIX IN THERE FINAL HOMES OUTDOORS 20s and 30 gallon smart pots. Still have massive plants but I'm going to out those in the 50 and the 40. I'll finish this shit up tomorrow and get all the girls in their forever homes and if I don't have room for some I was planning on doing a light dep anyway so that will work out good. I learned a lot and transplanting went a lot smoother todsy than before. I feel really proud of myself. The last Transplant I did break a few leaves off that I didn't notice but whatever. I used tomato cages for suppirt on two and bamboo poles and string on the others. I'll add the vertical trellis as they grow. I'm proud of myself. 6/10 I got a lot done yesterday. Six are outside already. Two are in 20s in the garage. I'm planning on transplanting the rest today or tomorrow. I'll update later. Accidently uploaded lots of stuff on the wrong week. UPDATE: I TRANSPLANTED THAT SUPER TALL PURPLE PUNCH THAT I DIDNT TOP OR HST AT ALL INTO A 40 GALLON TUB. ROOTS WERE DRY AND THIS TIME IT ACTUALLY LOOKED LIKE THEY FELL AWAY. THE PLANT HOWEVER STAYED STANDINGVUP FINE. I THINK THIS PHENO IS GOING TO BE A TOUGH ONE. LOOKS GOOD LIKE AN HOUR LATER. I HAD THE 50 READY TO TRANSPLANT THIS MONSTER BLUEBERRY CHEESE I FIMed BUT THE POTS WERE SUPER HEAVY AND I FIGURED I NEEDED TO SLOW DOWN AND THINK. WE HAVE THUNDER STORMS COMING TONIGHT. TOMORROW IS GOOD. I MAY TRY TO FINISH UP TONIGHT BUT WE SHALL SEE. THE GOOD THING WITH DOING IT A FEW AT A TIME IS THAT IF SOMETHING HAPPENS OUTSIDE IVE STILL GOT A CROP INSIDE LOL. WHAT IM PLANNING TO DO IS EITHER LIGHT DEP THAT BIG BLUEBERRY CHEESE OR PUT IT IN THE FIFTY BUT IM PLANNING TO LIGHT 3 RIGHT IN THEIR 3 GALLON CONTAINERS. HAVENT DECUDED FOR SURE BUT IM THINKING THATS WHATS GOING TO HAPPEN.......of course videos won't upload and the ones that do are old videos. Damn. I need to sharpen my computer skills....and my growing skills. Especially transplanting. I suck at transplanting. I decided not to out all my eggs in one basket and left the 10th planet amd Blue berry cheese in the 20s in the garage. I pulled them out for light further but I'm ousting them back a little tonight. That way I'll have a back up if something catastrophic happens. I doubt it but better safe than sorry. I'm proud of what I've accomplished thus far. I've successfully uploaded my 1 minute plus video several times but it won't appear. Oh well. I'll try to load the videos tomorrow I guess. Just started raining. Just a light rain. Probably what fresh transplants like. 6/11 BEAUTIFUL outside. Today is the day. Most is done and I'll add the supports as trellis as they grow. This new grow space gets about twice as much sun as my old spot. The tar stops the burrowing insects. I'm getting everything out today. I just need to decide if I'm going to light dep that MASSIVE blueberry cheese or bite the bullet and put it in the fifty. Maybe I'll try to get some help from my cousin. Plants withstood the thunderstorm like Champs. I'll update as the day goes on. I planned better this year so I SHOULDN'T have an unmanageable jungle. UPDATE: WATERED THE 3 PLANTS LEFT IN THE 3 GALLONS (1 10th PLANET WITH GREAT BRANCH STRUCTURE AND TWO PURPLE PUNCH THAT WERE THE SMALLER ONES. IM GOING TO LIGHT DEP THEM. EVERYTHING IS OUTSIDE NOW IN A MIX OF 1/3 FOX FARM OCEAN FOREST, HAPPY FROG AND ROOTS ORGANIC 707 IN EQUAL PARTS. TRANSPLANTED WITH MYKOS. EVERYTHING IS OUTSIDE NOW. FINALLY DECIDED TO GET The MONSTER BLUE CHEESE I FIMed INTO ITS FOREVER HOME A 50 FALLON POT. IT WAS TGE EASIEST BEST TRANSPLANT OF THEM ALL. JUST LIKE AETTING A POT IN THE WHOLE. I DONT EVEN THINK THE PLANT NOTICED. ONE OF THE PURPLE PUNCHES HAD ROOTS OB ONE OF ITS LEAVES WHEN I LOOKED BUTVIT WAS STILL STANDING UO STEAIGHT. I KNOW SOME OF THE PLANTS LOOK DROOPY BUT WEVE HAD SEVERAL DAYS OF RAIN AND A MASDIVE THUNDER STORM. I BROUGHT OUT THE EARLIER TRANSPLANTS AS WELL. THEY ARE OUT OF THE SHOCK. WIND IS PRETTY HIGH BUT I DONT WANT TO ADD MORE TARPS. I THINK THINGS ARE SECURED GOOD ENOUGH FOR NOW. IM SUPER STOKED THAT TRANSPLANT WENT SO GOOD! Went back at 7:30pm. Some plants have a little bit of transplant shock and a little bit of burn but it's negligible considering they've been through a thunderstorm with pouring rain and extremely high winds. That blueberry cheese in the 50 transplanted so easy and still looks like it didn't even know the difference. I'll start light dep once I get a plan. Plants are recovering nicely but should something happen to one I could replace it. I'm interested in the light dep though and I've got a pretty good idea how to start. 6/12 The plants that had a little transplant shock are coming out of it. We had a thunderstorm and pouring rain the day of some of the transplants. Wasn't forecasted. High winds moved the plants around a bunch bit they are tough as hell. Everything is out now. Suppisedcto have showers the next few days. I'm putting together a feeding schedule abd setting up a spit to start light dep on the three plants I decided to flower early. The cage now gets twice as much sun as before. This is going to be a good year. Went back over and plants are perking up and doing even better everytime I see them. I took a video but it might not upload until tomorrow. I may start a new diary for the light dep. I have a few places I'm thinking to use for light dep. I need to make a solid plan before I start so maybe a day or two. Trying to upload again but I doubt it. 6/13 Had a rushed morning but I watered the plants in the 3 gallons as they were dry. I had added more soil to a couple of the bags. The top soil is startingvtj dry out but the plants look good and we are supposed to get rain so I don't really want to water if it's going to be raining. I think I've found my light dep spot and schedule. I'll update after I do something. WENT BACK OVER AND SPRAYED A LITTLE BIT OF WATER ON THE EXTREMELY DRY TOPSOIL THAT I HAD TOPPED SOME OF THE PLANTS OFF WITH. SHITTY THING IS THAT WAS ADDED AFTER THE THUNDER STORM SO IT MAKES IT HARDER TO JUSTE THE PLANTS WATERING NEEDS. I CAN TELL THAT ONE OFCTHE FIRST TEANSPLANTS IS STILL HOLDING WATER. I MEAN WE GOT A DOWNPOUR AND I DONT WABT TO WATER IF WE'RE GOING TO BE GETTING RAIN ANYWAY. IM GOING TO LOOK BACK OVER THE DIARY. THATS ONE GREAT THING ABOUT THESE. YOU CAN GO BACK AND CHECK YOUR WORK. 6/14 Glad I held off watering. It's raining today. Just showers. We haven't gotten any of that extreme wind we usually do. I have the plants supported but I still worry. Definitely more than I should. Plants are still doing good and acclimating to there homes. I have not started the light dep with the 3 gallons but I think I've found my spot. Once I start it will just be staying consistent putt8ng them in and out. I need to train them anyway. I have some research to do and a joint to smoke so I'll update later.

A few sprouting for my 2nd wave of dwarfs today. Day 45 for first few (except the one slow poke whos about 2 weeks behind). All seems to be going well nice green to them. I noticed the spots just recently i think i might have put to much ph down in the flush feeding and theyre telling me ph flux?? Got a mutant who once grew 5 fingers but since flwr has been growing only 3 fingers. i read its a ruderailis trait. Shes staying super short too. My temps. are good 45% humidity with lights on now just put the dehumidifier in see if shell work for me again i got a chance to go in during darkness and rh was upto 70%.

Mandarin XL auto has sprouted, and us looking good. She is getting acclimated to the substrate, and roots should be seeking nutrition soon. She will be in the organo-mineral Gen1:11 nutrition. Everything is looking great so far. 🤞🏻 it stays that way. Thank you Gen1:11, Medic Grow, and Ganja Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Hey Leute ich hab bei den Pflanzen Ungeziefer bemerkt kann nur aus der plagron Erde vom Grow Shop sein Trauermücken thripse bei zwei Pflanzen außert sich das Schon negativ die Pflanze sieht kränklich aus gelb Stich von oben nach unten überdüngung ausgeschlossen, hab die Pflanzen mit combo neem behandelt 4 Tage gewartet und wieder behandelt das Pflanzbild der Zustand kann auch davon kommen !!! sobald die Pflanzen sich erholt haben schick ich die endlich in die Blüte

2nd net is up. Early bud formations are promising. holding up to the extremes pretty well, some leaves taking minor damage, but overall, she is holding up, gave her 1 night at 50F see how she would react, stressful. Not advised as it messes with her metabolism, but I want to see if it triggers any anthocyanin response. Love to see her purp up but no signs yet. Remember, For every molecule of glucose produced during photosynthesis, a plant needs to split six molecules of water. This process provides the hydrogen needed for synthesizing glucose and other organic compounds, while oxygen is released as a byproduct. Homework. If Rubisco activity is impaired and it cannot properly function or regenerate its substrate, the plant's leaves are likely to turn a pale green or lime green, a condition known as chlorosis. Essentially, Rubisco activity is highly regulated and susceptible to various environmental and metabolic factors that can cause it to become inhibited, leading to an apparent failure in RuBP regeneration due to a lack of consumption. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration. RuBisCO is a very large enzyme that constitutes a significant proportion (up to 50%) of leaf soluble protein and requires large investments in nitrogen. Insufficient nitrogen supply limits the plant's ability to produce adequate amounts of RuBisCO, thereby limiting the overall capacity for photosynthesis and carbon fixation. Maintaining the optimal, slightly alkaline pH is crucial for the proper function and regeneration of Rubisco. Deviations in either direction (too high or too low) disrupt the enzyme's structure, activation state, and interaction with its substrates, leading to decreased activity and impaired RuBP regeneration. (Lime/yellowing) Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. For those high-intensity workouts when 1 meal a day is just not enough! Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The plant was getting a little limey yellow in the centre. Shortly thereafter, she was back in business, green mostly regenerated. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems. Confidence is evidence... nothing more. You are confident because you have driven 10,000 times, you are confident because you have spoken 10,000 times. People think confidence is a feeling, but it's not. If you want more confidence, then you need to create evidence, take more shots, collect more data, build more experiences, take more risks; fail, confidence doesn't come first; it is the reward you get for doing the work. no one else wants to do.

Legend Timestamp: 📅 EC - pH: ⚗️ Temp - Hum: 🌡️ Water: 🌊 Food: 🍗 pH Correction: 💧 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 Media: 🎬 D: DAY, G: GERMINATION, V: VEGETATIVE, B: BLOOMING, R: RIPENING, D: DRYING, C: CURING ______________ 📅 D36/V32 - 21/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.0 pH: 6.0 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 LST 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL in her new home and one TL of LST job ______________ 📅 D37/V33 - 22/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.0 pH: 5.4 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 LST 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video and one TL of LST job ______________ 📅 D38/B01 - 23/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.0 pH: 5.3 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 2L 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 As I saw clear signs of blooming, I need to pass to bloom phase so I put B01, in the header. 🚀 Clearly she's starting flowering 🎬 1 TL video and 1 LST video ______________ 📅 D39/B02 - 24/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.1 pH: 5.3 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 🧠 🚀 🎬 1 TL video and 1 LST video ______________ 📅 D40/B03 - 25/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.2 pH: 5.3 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 15L 🍗 💧 💼 Flush for two days and then flowering nutes 🧠 I think no more LST, she's now full blooming 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D41/B04 - 26/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 0.2 pH: 5.3 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 70% 🌊 🍗 💧 💼 Flush for two days and then flowering nutes 🧠 I think no more LST, she's now full blooming 🚀 🎬 1 TL video ______________ 📅 D42/B05- 27/05/24 ⚗️ EC: 1.1 pH: 6 🌡️ T: 20°C H: 60% 🌊 15L 🍗 Calmag - Bloom A-B - Bud Candy - B52 - Big Bud - Seaweed 💧 💼 👉👉👉 Changed res and added nutes 🧠 I think no more LST, she's now full blooming 🚀 🎬 1 TL video

This was my first outdoor autoflower experience. Very happy with the results. Buds could have had a better taste in my opinion but that is just preference.

Day 36 preflower stage, should see buds forming within the next several days or so. WE ARE AT WAR!!!! Applied a pouch of nematodes to every pot to kill the fungus gnat at its larval stage. Which has been gnawing on my roots! Increased the sticky traps to trap the flying f*<|{£rs. Will reapply more nematodes in 10 days to kill the next generation. Then hopefully that’ll be all! Don’t overwater folks. Fungus gnats suck! Hopefully last hiccup of the grow. Cheers everyone. Good luck on your grows. Day 41 and I’d say we’re officially in flower. Seein those hairs real good now. We’re still experiencing a rather annoying fungus gnat infestation which has really stunted these ladies. This is entirely my own doing by more than likely overwatering them, creating the problem. Sighs… lower stems grew considerably, which has me optimistic as to the potential yield. I won’t know till stretch is over to gauge my yield. Hopefully Fastbuds amazing genetics can help me fix my f up. 🤞 Day 45 and were on our second round of treatment with nematode packs. I have moved the grow lights up substantially as to hopefully help with the discoloration of my leaves. I believe it to be light stress from the lightening around the edges and some brown tips. Some of them are curled upwards so thst could also be nutrient burn. I have asked a question about it to hopefully get the help of someone more experienced than iam. Good luck growing my friends🍻 Day 48 I ripped open my nematodes packs and mixed in the first couple inches. The top few inches of soil are now aerated better. Hopefully things will improve. Seem to look better since I moved the light up. Stretch ladies… stretch watering at 6.0 to hopefully lower the ph of my girls. I could do the viniger method? Or sulfur. Comment and let me know how you lower the ph of your soil?

👉Alrighty Then👈 So we are at DAY 14 with the Sugar Larry 👈 And she's doing fantastic 👍 Except for some slight watering , I haven't really done anything 🙃 and she's definitely leading the rest in growth 👌 👉WeeklyRoundup Video is finally posted 😕 😒 😪 😢 Happy Growing 👉Soil Provided by ProMix.ca 👉Nutrients Provided by Agrogardens 👉Lighting Provided by MarsHydro.ca Thanks my friend for the great support over the years 🙏

Did a quick banana tea and they really loved it. Will do again soon

So far things are going well. Bloom has started and already seeing purple/pink hues on the buds. Will be back to update properly just posting up a few pictures before i forget. Check out the YouTube channel. Water change at day 31 and pH'd the water to 5.8. I also got a new RO 4 stage water filter for the best water quality for the girls so ill be using that on the next water change. The smell is sweet in the tent. All seems to be going ok. Day 34 - The girls seem happy enough, a few colder nights than needed but all in all, happy with there progress.

Week 2 of Flower (Day 56 since sprouted) Just maintaining temps and adjusting light distance. Fed with 1/2 gallon of feed water PH 6.5 -TPS CalMag 1 mil -General Hydroponics Trio -TPS Signal 5 mil per 1 gallon Light defoliating

Buds are starting to get really fat on 3 of the 4 plants. No amber on the trichomes yet so it will be a few more weeks till harvest at a minimum. The one that did the most stretching is just starting to thicken up on the buds. Been having issues with my drainage system causing a bit flooding in my tent. I see a few signs of deficiencies on one of the plants but I can't properly have access to it to see what is going on. The 4x4 tent has proven to be just too small for these thicc ladies. After this grow I'll be getting a much bigger tent. Any recommendations?

Our Black Runtz branded Zamnesia has arrived at the moment of truth, it's going very well from the start and the god of Jella has punished me because I'm bragging too much: I accidentally knocked out the fan that cut a brunch. I'm an asshole, I was very high and I did this damage that I also reported in the photo to make amends and remind myself not to do this bullshit. Apart from this which is still a disgrace for me, the plant is an excellent beauty, it's doing very well, we only went from 16 buds to 14 buds like this damage that I caused. They know 14 succulent buds, let's hope. If I don't do any more damage. We did our best, Zamnesia has put superb genetics and at home B&B we are working to show you the plants in all their possible meanings. This plant like all the other photoperiodic ones has been worked with a topping x16 buds, simply repeating the topping technique without doing anything else than cleaning the leaves from time to time and now the branches that I believe do not give me good flowers at the bottom. After the damage x14 buds The 14 buds are not perfectly aligned there is something that escapes upwards but it is normal in the economy of a plant i tried to FIM before go in bloom. We are still using soil, fertilizers and all the additives recommended by Plagron 100% organic. The plant has been flowering for 3 days, in the diary I leave it indicated as the last week of vegetative but we move on to the fertilizers for flowering. We have now moved on to the early flowering program which maintains the same additives Power Roots, Sugar Royal, Pure Zym and adds the flowering stimulant Power Buds. Now the base fertilizer is now Alga Bloom with which I get along very very well even more than Alga Grow that sometimes I have to understand well how to dose in some particular cases ( topping). Probably try to prepare the soil with Plagron Super Mix or with the Zamnesia Pellet. The Green Sensation will arrive as the hero of the end of flowering and at the same time it will be time to remove power roots and a week later the Pure Zym enzymes. ---- Decide on the right soil and calculate your fertilizer card based on the soil on the official website. -- www.plagron.com Try a seed of this strain that drives us crazy.. -------- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/11159-zamnesia-seeds-black-runtz.html Zamnesia Description // Black Runtz comes from a truly legendary genetic pool. Our breeders used three modern classics from the United States to create this strain: Zkittlez, Gelato, and Runtz. With 20% THC and flavors of grapes and berries, Zkittlez passed on her delicious flavors and relaxing effects. Gelato contributed to Black Runtz's immense flavor profile by passing on high concentrations of the terpenes limonene and humulene. Finally, Black Runtz inherited the high potency of the original Runtz, a strain with a respectable 21% THC. The end result of this 3-way cross is a strain with 55% indica genetics and 45% sativa. Black Runtz boasts rapid flowering times, high potency, and contrasting yet balanced terpenes that supports its delicious flavor profile. All the best that mother nature can offer is on ---- www.zamnesia.com

Woche 4 Topping und Blattschnitt. Der Blattschaden wird wohl durch die zu abrupte Umstellung kommen. Etwas viel Licht und Wind im neuen Zelt der kleinen . 45. DLI (noch aus der letzten Blüte) wurde erstmal auf 35 DLI reduziert.