The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Yeah nutrients and ppm are not accurate. It’s close enough, but it’s a rough guess off the top of my head. I’ll try to take notes right away, that way I can remain accurate. No signs of mold or mildew. No pests or bugs. A few caught in the fly traps but never any visible “free” fliers. The cold from the two days really had her looking sad and definitely upset her momentum. But now that the heater is back, she’s not freezing with a low of 50F and high of 68F. Within an hour or so of raising the temp back to 70+ (I went straight to 78F) she was looking way better, leaves peeking back up. Lights are down at 30% for the night before going completely off for 4 hours. I’d say 30% for 4 Hours, then OFF for 4, then lights back on at 30% for another 2 and then back to 60% for the remaining time. Im doing this because my Golden Goat pheno is showing increased levels of magnesium deficiency when the intensity is higher. Does that make sense? Maybe the pheno doesn’t like the high UV LED lights? The Blueberry S1 and Mandarine XL as well as the little Critical Purple auto are all managing the light fine. Except I did notice a subtle magnesium deficiency in the MXL at one point, in a few leaves. Maybe the plants would benefit from a larger vascular system?? The Blueberry S1 is just jamming! But I’m upping the CalMag in everyone to help mitigate the delay in the magnesium. YES I could give more Epsom Salt. But a moderately heavy stack of Epsom Salts with a pH of 7, on top of a pH7 foliar feed of Epsom Salt, to immediately see continued signs develop towards a deficiency suggests another element at play. Maybe it’s still not enough Epsom salts?… Or: maybe something to do with the light is creating a high demand for magnesium and thus, the output outweighs the input. Either way, I’m going to be upping the Calcium input to build a bigger vascular system to hopefully solve this dilemma. It’s only noticeable in the GoldenGoat pheno. Barely visible in the MXL and only in one or two leaves total. Whereas the GoldenGoat has every leaf that hits 40-60% maturity develops a small indication of magnesium deficiency, yet it never progresses. Anyways, the Mandarine XL Auto is cruising along just fine. Also I like the anthocyanins coming out in some leaves. Although I attribute that to the high UVs.
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First week of flowering for the girls. We started with some master bloom from Xpert nutrients and continue with master root also from xpert nutrients. We placed a net above the poants to guide some of the taller branches and create a more equal canopy. We defoliated some lower leaves and for the rest it looks quite good, some plants showed a little sign of overfeeding so we lower the dosis this week.
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Que pasa familia, vamos con la cosecha de estas Tropicanna Poison F1 de Sweetseeds. Esta variedad me resultó bastante sencilla de cultivar, y si no la maltratas crece sana a mi parecer, la flor se ve increíble, tiene una cantidad de resina considerable y unos tonos rojos muy peculiares, se ven muy apetecibles. El olor que desprende es muy peculiar es muy dulce con toques terrosos, a mi parecer, no pinta nada mal, las flores están prietas. También os comento que la variedad es muy fácil de cultivar y no da mayores problemas, el ciclo no es largo, cuiden con la altura ya que se desmadran un poco. IMPORTANTE destacar: En las fotos comprobaréis que ya no hay botes de cristal con sobres de bóveda, ahora hay Grovebags. Que son una especie de sobres o bolsas que retienen el peso, previene la aparición de moho y mantiene intacto el terpeno, para que el curado sea más óptimo. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨
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Week 9 for Moby dick by fastbuds, She was fed once last week at the start of the week with regulator by Aptus & FPJ too. Then the stress of the week it rained so she was just fed from that i guess😂 I did a tempt to place her indoors when it was raining heavy before night time but didnt catch her every time. I think shes going to be a long living auto😂 Because theres no way she will be done in the next 3weeks. Lets see if she proves me wrong
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She has received a little water this week a gave her 100 ml of phd balanced water she has been recovering steadily under the natural sunlight so I will keep her there and play it by sight. I will wait until the pot drys a bit before I feed h
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The first week of vegetation is now behind us and the 1 liter pots are already well rooted. They will now be repotted in their final pots in the 2nd week. Everything is still going according to plan and now all the plants will move into their final tent.
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@m0use
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Alright going to compile all the results of the different harvests into this one report. Its easier to have all the pics in one place. They are all autoflowers, Best grown outdoors in my area as they finish on time and just before the rainy season where molds and WPM takes over anything. So there is a lot happening in the pics. Took a pick of the planter after I harvested and of the plants hanging up, Some of them are in the bags from the freezer. All the plants where trimmed wet and frozen fresh expect the Blue Dream, They will all be getting turned into Bubble Hash once the weather gets a bit colder in my area. Will do it on the desk when its aorund 0c so freeze point but nothing to crazy. Side notes, One plant grew a weird colourization thing and have dark and light leaves on one branch. looked kinda neat, and one of the plants I found a bunch of hatched eggs "maybe butterfly??" on one of the undersides leaves. Will not know harvest weights or anything till after I transform it all into the hash. Most of the plants weed and not weed grew roots outside of the planters and across the deck boards, kinda fun to see when moving the planters. Had a velcro like effect to them. Many of the plants did not even survive a week past germination or did not germinate at all. I did not included these into the report and most of them where from older seeds. One of them was not but it is a strain I have known to be a little bitch unless everything is perfect and easy. so not the best genetics overall. Out of the ones I did grow and that survived they are listed below. Fast Buds CBD 20:1 This plant grew small in both containers it was placed in and did not excel very much, it had an ok growth pattern but nothing to write home about, Likely best suited for an indoor growing environment. vs outdoors, Need to try this one again in a better pot or indoors. Curious about its flavours and potential when given more of a ideal environment. Exotic Seeds Strawberry Cola This plant did well in the small container it had, Made some nice looking buds for what it was dealing with, Did not have the best sun vs some of the other plants and showed a bit of WPM at the end of the harvest on one of its leaves. If it was grown is a large container like some of the other well performing plants im sure it would be a bit better but still a squat plant, perfect for my stealthy grows where you need things contained a bit more. Ganja Farmer Blue Dream Did well, had a few of them growing in smaller pots and one in a big pot. the smaller ones where not worth doing anything with, really needs its own pot not shared and good amount of medium. it will thrives. Plant had no real issues and grew well. Ganja Farmer Gorilla Cookies This was the best performing auto out of them, It had the bigger plant and took up the most room. It was in a planter with a smaller plant and it did not make it. The Gorilla Cookies overtook it and excelled heavily. Great buds and nice frost, if I had more I would grow this one again. TBH any of the Gorilla line up from Ganja Farmer has been very impressive outdoors for me. I have tried a few of their other strains and had some issues from smaller plants and pests but the Gorilla mixes and lineup is a winner for sure. Would recommend this to anyone who just wants to set it and forget it and feed every so often. Fast Buds Apricot This was the 2nd best performing plant, it was just a bit smaller then the Gaja Farmer plants and they where located beside each others planter boxes. The Apricot did share its space with another plant that grew to a descent size so it was share more of its resources then the cookies. another good option to have for an outdoor grow, just let it be and harvest end of it all. Great smells and looks, would grow it again for the smell alone its nice when you walk past it and bump it then waft the sweet nectar of the plant. Seedstockers Blackberry Gum Very tasty plant and excellent aroma off of it. It came out strong and grew very well. It was planted with another seedstockers plant that did similar and had a great overall success. Of the two plant that popped off one was more fruity then the other and the other was more sour. All of the plants I grew from SeedStockers this year where great growers and produces. Will do them again and again if I have the chance to. They don't seem to have duds in the seed like the others ones did, and they where just as old as the oldest ones. So they last for a while. Seedstockers CBD 1:1 Silver Lime Haze This was the plant growing inside the same container as the blackberry gum. It had a great hazy smell, sour and hints of cirtus. Like the other Seedstocker seeds it had two that popped up and one of them was more diesel. When trimming this one it was oliy as fuck. I have no doubt if I pressed this stuff for rosin it would be a heavy producer. Love the 1:1 ratio of CBD to THC and think more strains need to do this. I remever reading something saying when there is aorund 1-2% CBD in the weed it can make its effects even stronger. Fast Buds OG Kush + SeedStockers O.G. Kush these two where to be a grow off between each other and find out what one is best. They had similar growth to each other and one of them go so top heavy it bent over. I will know more about these ones once I crack the bags and give them a test once all the processing is done. OG Kush was one of the first ever strains I grew and did it very well under low wattage and blue light. It has a special spot in my heart even if I did not like the high or taste all that much as many others do. Well that is it for now. I may comeback and edit of this and add more bits. Any questions let me know in the comments or send me a DM.
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@RzDreams
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22/11/2022 Se nota gran cantidad de pistilos en la planta un poco de estiramiento final 23/11/2022 Formación final de pistilos. Los cogollos comienzan a crecer considerablemente 25/11/2022 😰 Continua el crecimiento de cogollos. 26/11/2022 Cogollos comienzan a engordar
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So excited to start a Mephisto grow! I will update once they sprout out of the ground. I soaked them in Ph water for 12 -24 hours. I then put a paper towel in a zip lock and pour the ph water and seed in between paper towel. Put it in a dark warm closet on top of a heating pad on low and usually and wait until the babies pop. Once popped they go into the super soil i prep for them in a 5 gall cloth pot
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Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.
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@KeiKie90
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1.10.2021 Day 8 Auto Blackberry Kush Info: Nutrients: n/a Water: 300ml Temperature: 21*C - 29*C Humidity: 54% - 72% 2.10.2021 Day 9 Auto Blackberry Kush Info: Nutrients: n/a Water: 300ml Temperature: 22*C - 29*C Humidity: 52% - 72% 3.10.2021 Day 10 Auto Blackberry Kush Info: Nutrients: n/a Water: 300ml Temperature: 21*C - 29*C Humidity: 56% -78% 4.10.2021 Day 11 Auto Blackberry Kush Info: Nutrients: 2nd week! Water: Temperature: 21*C - 27*C Humidity: 54% - 76% 5.10.2021 Day 12 Auto Blackberry Kush Info: Nutrients: n/a Water: 300ml Temperature: 22*C - 29*C Humidity: 50% - 68% 6.10.2021 Day 13 Auto Blackberry Kush Info: Nutrients: n/a Water: 300ml Temperature: 21*C - 28*C Humidity: 51% -72% 7.10.2021 Day 14 Auto Blackberry Kush Info: Nutrients: n/a Water: 300ml Temperature: 21*C - 26*C Humidity: 56% - 70%
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@Grow4ever
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Ein paar Tage nicht da und dann solche Büsche im Zelt. Das hieß heute gehts ran ans defolieren und Scrognetz einspannen. Zudem haben Sie leider einen ganzschönen VPD Schock erlitten, auf dem einem Foto sind an der Chocholate Mint OG deutlich Calcium Symptome und nach oben gerollte Blätter zu erkennen. Habe heute morgen also erstmal eine Ladung Wasser mit Cal/Mag und etwas algamic gegossen und die Lampe höher gehängt. Heute abend ging es dann direkt ans defolieren, da ich ehrlich gesagt, die Woche sonst wenig Zeit finden werde. Jetzt sollen Sie sich erholen und ins Scrog einfügen.
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Decent Growth this week. No change to the feeding schedule. I started to notice fungus gnats towards the end of this week so I've added glue boards and have started bottom feeding. DE powder may be necessary if the problem persists.
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Essa planta vou tocar sem treinamento pois acho wireless o caule está frágil na base.
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Die dritte Blütewoche startet für die Ladies und sie bekommen noch etwas Proviant mit auf den Weg. Sie bekommen jeweils 20ml Orgatrex und 1g Bactrex, gelöst in einem Liter Osmose Wasser. Ich habe den Autopots einige Tage vorher die Wasserzufuhr abgedreht, um sie nicht zu fluten. Für mehr Stabilität habe ich ein zweites Netz reingehängt. Außerdem habe ich zwei ungenutzte PC Lüfter ins Zelt gelegt um für etwas mehr Umluft zu sorgen. Desweiteren wurden einige Blätter entfernt. Die Woche neigt sich dem Ende zu und die Pflanzen sprengen das Zelt. Die Lampe hängt mittlerweile auf Anschlag.
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@AsNoriu
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Day 9. All is running very nice. Happy with light performace a lot. Girls missed wind a bit, but i cant make it faster, because of neighbours and sound, so i took humidity dome away. TSL2000 runs 40 cm away and on 40% output. Girls get daily shower , try to keep some wet cloth to maintain humidity. Happy Growing !!!
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One week more. The two ladies have developed quite well in the last week and I have now defoliated them again. I think the yellow leaf tips are due to low humidity. The morello cherries auto in the soil also had a bit of bad news for me. There was a small bag of bananas, which I have removed for now and will continue to observe whether new ones appear. With a new cultivar, I can well imagine that it will be even more stable. Otherwise, the morello Cherrie flowers very fast and l'm a little surprised at the low stretch.
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The bud‘s smell like lemon and they are small but this was my fail i think. Elsa was doing a Great Job and I will take every product again in Grows in the Future. Thx
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June 29: looking good at the start of a new week. Hot again and risk of thunderstorms so the plants are up against the house tonight. Plant has reached lowest of three rungs on the tomato cage and I’m trying to get a few colas to go around on the outside. July 1: Happy Canada Day. Warm again today with a risk of thunderstorms. July 2: cool today (about 12 C high) so watered with 27 C water in morning to help keep things growing. Also topped fourth time to make the 16 cola manifold. This is the best way to shape photoperiod plants…all the work is up front and it produces nice uniform buds that are easy to process during harvest. Two stems on the piece that broke are healthy but smaller than the others. Should even out with time. Watered with full nutrient mix. July 5: looks good. I was gone for a couple of days after the last round of topping and just noticed today that I had done seven and had missed one which has now been dealt with.