Nothing too exciting still. Growing a little smaller than I'd expect but the roots seem great. Swapped the lights. Cranked the sf1000 to 100% and put it up to 25". Hung the t5 on the side. Will probs pull it out when it goes to flower.

Week 4 Topped all 6 plants on the 4th nod. Stopped feeding voodoo juice and increased dose of bio-grow to 2ml/L plus added Alg-A-mic 2ml/L.

W#9 D62

This week I moved them into bigger pots, which is why I think now they were not growing as big as I hoped. They seem to be doing well, and I have added the net now and will let the canopy build up. Since I moved to bigger pots, I did not need to water for a bit, but I think it will be back to normal this week. Check out the video I did today of the room.

Bueno Farmers un error por ni contar la época de Pre-Flora entramos ahora semana 2 de flora, ya empieza salir la resina...sobre todo la Royal Gorila. No podremos pasar a led de momento próximamente mas novedades compañeros!🍁

She is beginning to swell nicely now for a sativa... lots of white pistils and tricomes are starting to come out. Still no smell but she looks great.

This update is dedicated to @greenmachine. Slurricane blast with Butane. Dimonds and sauce. Is there anything more to say? It came out BEAUTIFUL. 🔥💎🔥💎🔥💎😁

I took these on my Snapchat is why there is so many of them 😅 I'm currently doing the 48 hours of darkness to help produce more trichomes. I did SO MUCH to this plant, it looks like it will DEFINITELY have some weight to it, but you will have to wait until it's dry 😄

This seedling is finally showing signs of a growth spurt. Started with some feeds Bio Bizz Fish Mix is being mixed and trying to keep the Ph to 6.5-6.8

These two are looking like their gonna be different pheno types cause Grapey Walter #1 has remained short and wide af but Grapey Walter #2 is towering over all the others in height which shouldent be a problem, also Grapey Walter #1 is flowering a bit slower than the rest 👌🏻 Still looking good, starting to frost up now also added an 4” air intake and hung it up to blow air across the canopy.

Day 21. I post one day earlier, but its a huge week for them. Cleared space, install chicken wire fence. Added worm castings, epsom salt, mono potassium, calcium nitrate , Great White, Biosys and hope they will be ok. Next visit in two weeks. Root system was good, couple girls had mini root bound on the bottom, so timing was perfect ! Sherbet was strongest, purple haze weakest, both Apples were ok too. Happy Growing !!!

Since the humidity stayed at a very high level, it was only a matter of time...HORROR!😱 I FOUND BUD-ROT! 😭 On day 73 (=Flowering Day 49) I spotted a white fuzz on my ZHEETOS #2 plant from BIG BUDDHA SEEDS. I took it out and inspected her closer and found budrot on the main stem and in the main bud. I immediately cut off the infected parts and tried to save the rest of the plant. (see first video above) Since I do NOT want to spray my plants with any chemicals, because they are my medicine, I resort to UV-C light. I use the CLEANLIGHT HOBBY UNIT (a UV-C plant protection light from the Netherlands, that kills bacteria, viruses and fungi) and shine the UV-C light on all my plants and the soil-surface in the pots (see second video above). This will kill all the remaining spores of bud-rot (which are a kind of fungus) in my closet and stop it from further spreading to my other plants. I also immediately stop giving any BIO NOVA nutrients from this moment on, although the plants LOVE THEM. But I have to do this in order to flush the plants before harvesting them. I cannot risk and wait until the plants are fully matured, I have to do an emergency flush and harvest as soon as possible, so I dont loose the rest of my medicine to bud-rot. Hold your thumbs that I can save them for a week longer...👍

All plants are topped at the 3rd node, the 2 sides shoots will become the main branches. Adding the Enzymes to the menu. I will transplant during the next week , I can see the roots coming out the drains holes at the bottom of the pots, meaning it’s the right time to give them more space to keep the growth rate and to avoid any root bounds that will stunt the plants ! Switching to a 600w HID MH extra-Blue to give more light coverage and more space to grow. ( I’m looking for a job in the Cannabis industry as Master Grower, Mineralogist, Quality Control 🐞 )

_____________________ | ROYAL CHEESE HARVEST | |_____________________| Whats up!! Harvesting a little earlier than when i would like, because of the rise of bugs that appeared last days due to climate conditions... this year temperatures are oscillating more than usual having 1 rainy week, then a sunny hot one just after it rains.. In fact, last year, it did not rain until November So the plagues were on the leaves, mildew powdery(just a coulpe of leaves),aphids(like just in the leaves of one cola), and some caterpillars almost ready to get out and start eating all the buds, (hopefully i cut that day).. Sounds bad, but the parts of the plant affected was only the leaves... and means that a proper cleaning is coming so removed all the leaves and the result is what you can see, that bonsai.. Spotted 2 dead material points in big colas, that i removed after drying.. I did not weight the plant wet because of the smell that i had on my house that day, things went very tense, i was a bit busy, and even, it has not much sense to me, im better weighting the dry material. So at the end i think im having very good quality, and the affected parts are less than i thouth at first, so im very happy with the results.. On the scales are the best buds, the rest is the lower part of the colas that were less developed so im doing hash with that part.. Been busy guys so im uploading more photos today ^^ I hope you like all the grow thank you for follow it :) Song: Eazy-E - Down 2 tha last roach00000

Pics range from Day 14 to Day 21. Two very distinct phenos of the GLP. One coming in very purple early on and the other must hold distinct visual familiarities of her SFV OG. Will be top dressed with Gaia and EWC along with second application of Miicrobial Mass which has greatly aides in unlocking that Iron.

Another first timer strain and luckily this one has passed the germination week from white label seeds...it was a sunny week which propelled the enhanced growth...looking forward to crossing her with some Skunk #1 pollen. OG SKUNK Loading.

July 13: perfect cannabis weather after last week’s heat wave. Another heat wave next week, but for now it’s perfect. Added a third scrog layer and tied it off to some water bottles. This type of scrogging works, is easy, cheap, and it’s easy to still move the plant around the yard as needed. July 14: re-did the scrog net using a larger piece with more squares. Supercropped some ends to keep the growth tips at the same elevation. We’ll see how many colas I can make of this. July 16: looks happy enough but I need to up the water volume in this heat. July 18: really hot the last few days (33 C) so lots of watering and misting to keep them a bit cooler. Look really green and robust. 👍👍 Also wetting outside of grow bags to get some evaporative cooling for the soil. Added malted barley and Power Bloom to some soil and added it as a soil layer. Added plain soil on the top to deter birds from stealing the barley kernels. A bit less than 1 tbsp of Power Bloom per 1 gallon of soil with a bit more than 1 tbsp of malted barley per gallon of soil. #seedsman420growoff #seedsmanseeds

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

Flowering day 59 since time change to 12/12 h. Hey guys :-) The lady looks wonderful 😍☺️ The buds start to swell extremely . I'm curious how she will develop further because we are far from finished with the lady :-) I can't wait to try them all :-) . Otherwise everything was cleaned and checked. Have fun and stay healthy 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.barneysfarm.com/dr-grinspoon-5 Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.5 MadeInGermany