The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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What up Growmies, this one grew hella fast maturing in 9 weeks from seed to harvest fast. Buds is true to their name. This one has some serious resin on the flowers reminding me of some sort of a gelato Gorilla glue cross, but we shall see when it's released! I could be far off lol. I had no problems growing her. She was really easy and happy her whole life. She's a great one for extractions! Thank you grow diaries and thank you fastbuds for the opportunity to show the world my organic gardening skills! I appreciate all the support from the growing community here on grow diaries. Big thanks for my followers!
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@Hix57
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La LSD 25 auto évolue avec brio malgré son démarrage un peu trop "gourmand" en azote. Les premières feuilles ont fait un clin d'œil jaune, mais rien de comparable à la banane purple punch qui a décidé de prendre un virage jaune express. Est-ce la sénescence ou un petit coup de mou en azote ? L'avenir nous le dira, mais croisons les doigts pour que notre traitement porte ses fruits et atténue ces petits caprices. J'ai opté pour un rééquilibrage en donnant un quart de la dose recommandée d'azote, pour finalement arriver à la moitié. Les têtes sont déjà en pleine maturation, certaines ont même déjà fini leur course en seulement 47 jours. Imaginez-vous, une plante de cannabis qui nous offre des têtes en un mois et deux semaines ! C'est tout simplement impressionnant. Je prévois de patienter encore deux ou trois semaines, histoire de laisser la magie opérer un peu plus. Restez branchés pour la suite de cette aventure végétale pleine de surprises !
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@AutoCrazy
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This girl is getting close to being done now! I have had some cal-mag issues pop up. I should have gone with bigger pots this year. I started earlier then normal so the plants are bigger and hungrier then ones I’ve done in the past so I’ve had a few issues this run. This Fine lady has about another week left in her at this point I think She smells pretty awesome at this point!! 😎🍿
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@BudBeezy
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Welcome to week 8 of my grow diary. This week we had really good weather. Due to the high temperatures the soil dried out quickly so I had to water 8 litres almost every day instead of every 2 days. The plant was defoliated 3 times this week. The aphids were successfully controlled with neem oil. See you next week ✌️
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Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.
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Well after a miscalculation on the feeding weeks I am back on track. I gave them a drink of PH 6.2 water on the 15th I will feed them this week with another Bloom, Humic Acid and Big Fruits I will increase them by 2 ml per gallon. I am out of the PK booster and should have enough of the other Green Buzz Nutrients to last the grow. They seem to be responding well to the feedings. I might have a little nutrient burn on some of the sugar leaves. Over all autos that don't get very big, the PPM level I have been giving them might be a little high. so one more week of feeding after this 1/25 last food before the 2week flush with Clean Fruits from Green Buzz Nutrients. something similar to a flawless finish I am guessing. till next week Roll Bigger Joints.😺
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@w00tGrow
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Here comes the last week, but i think they will need some extra time, will check later on mycroscope.
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@NanoLeaf
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End of Week 15 (8th week of flower) I have stopped the CO2 supplementation for this week and onwards as the plants naturally slow down photosynthesis and it is not needed during the last 2 weeks of flower. Also raised the lights by 5cm to make sure the trichomes don't get damaged and also dropped the RH and temperatures even more than last week, and surely the colours are becoming more and more vibrant as the ladies are fading into their autumn shades. Feeding just water since middle last week, all I'm doing is giving the ladies PH correct water until harvest to naturally deplete the soil from nutrients and flush out the soil slowly this will help bring out even more colours as the ladies use up the remaining nutrients stored in their leaves as they reach the end of their life cycle. Pest Report: None Smell Report: Staaaaanky!
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Привет садоводы восьмая неделя жизни моей Purple OG Punch и она вроде зацвела , но не сегодня так завтра растение выглядит хорошо , цвет листьев приятный немного густая , но обрезать не хочется листья
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@Lazuli
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Very intense high, hits very fast and long. Im not stoned but still sleep like a rock after a few hits
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@Naujas
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New beginning-in a suitcase :) this is my 4th growth in a suitcase :) Sweet Seeds - Cream Caramel auto:) I think it will be an interesting growth, I don't know yet if I will try to train it, or if I will have to freeze the top of the plant at the base:) I will decide everything as I go ;) , 1 day after germination it was transplanted into its final pot, because I wanted to plant it a little deeper, so that there would be more space in the future:) good luck to everyone.
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Happy new year everyone! I hope everyone had some amazing festivities! 😃 Regarding my babies I think I might be underfeeding them and one might be shocked thanks to the heat and the lack of nutrients I gave them, last week's runoff water scared me and the plants might be suffering because of that! Most of the issues starts to get more noticeable later during the week! 😖 I started giving them few nutrients to see how they would react and at the end of the week it's clear that I had to give them waaaaay more 😵 Besides that I also moved them to their final pots and I topped Pistachio, out of the two she's the one that looks the best. I also defoliated them a little. I also believe they didn't get a transplant shock (I mean, they would've been worse if that was the case haha) and I added more mycorrhizas during the transplant (I heard they help a lot with hot climates and I need help with that badly) Anyway, thanks for reading! Stay tuned for the next update! 😉
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Flowering day 13 since time change to 12/12 Hey guys :-) The ladies are developing really well 😊. Was poured 2 times with 1.2 l each (groundwater see description at the bottom) It was started with the bloom fertilizer. Everything was made clean. Fresh osmosis water is applied and the plants are sprayed and checked. Stay healthy 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : Greenhouse seeds Company Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany
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@Rangaku
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BM coming along nicely, I’m just keeping up the defol and looking to get bulk bud sites I’ve got a feeling she’s about to stretch out this coming week
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@Mousse
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Lampe 100% Sooo… die Mädels sehen richtig gut aus. 🌱🔥 Die Blüte hat sich prächtig entwickelt, schön kompakt und richtig harzig. In der letzten Woche sind sie gefühlt explodiert. Einige Colas ziehen sich jetzt schon ca. 30 cm den Stängel entlang. 💪 Ich bereite jetzt alles auf die Ernte vor, Ende der Woche ist es soweit. Eventuell nehme ich vorher nur die Headbuds runter. ✂️ Die mittlere lasse ich allerdings noch weiterlaufen, sie hängt hinterher und bekommt deshalb ein anderes Gießschema, während die anderen schon in den Flush gehen. 🌿 Ende der woche wurde teil geerntet Mo: Gießen: #1:#3 4L-6L je Dünger für Links und Rechts: Canna Coco A&B = 1 ml/L CalMag = 0,6 ml/L Cannazym = 0,5 ml/L Boost = abgesetzt. pH: 5.8 EC: 0.8 Gießen: #2 4L-6L je Dünger für Mitte: Canna Coco A&B = 2 ml/L CalMag = 0,8 ml/L Cannazym = 0,5 ml/L Sugar Royal = 0 ml/L Green Sensation = 1 ml/L pH: 5.8 EC: 2,1 Di: nichts Mi: Gießen: #1:#3 4L-6L je Dünger für Links und Rechts: Canna Coco A&B = 1 ml/L CalMag = 0,6 ml/L Cannazym = 0,5 ml/L Boost = abgesetzt. pH: 5.8 EC: 0.8 Gießen: #2 4L-6L je Dünger für Mitte: Canna Coco A&B = 2 ml/L CalMag = 0,8 ml/L Cannazym = 0,5 ml/L Sugar Royal = 0,8 ml/L Green Sensation = 0,8 ml/L pH: 5.8 EC:1,9 Do: nichts Fr: Gießen: #1:#3 4L-6L je Dünger für Links und Rechts: Canna Coco A&B = 0,8 ml/L CalMag = 0,6 ml/L Cannazym = 0,5 ml/L Boost = abgesetzt. pH: 5.8 EC: 0.8 Gießen: #2 4L-6L je Dünger für Mitte: Canna Coco A&B = 2 ml/L CalMag = 0,8 ml/L Cannazym = 0,5 ml/L Sugar Royal = 1 ml/L Green Sensation = 1 ml/L pH: 5.8 EC:2.1 Sa : nichts So: Gießen: #2 4L-6L je -nur wasser mit pH5.8 -Teil geerntet Gießen: #2 4L-6L je Dünger für Mitte: Canna Coco A&B = 2 ml/L CalMag = 0,8 ml/L Cannazym = 0,5 ml/L Sugar Royal = 0 ml/L Green Sensation = 1 ml/L pH: 5.8 EC: 1,9
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Week is going great. Buds are starting to thicken up and trichomes are starting to form. This is the thirstiest plant i have had, probably partly due to the high day time temperature, but it looks to be just a minor problem. Can start to see that the yeald will be higher than i expected just by looking at the buds.
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@Beans
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Trained hard AF this week. Couldnt have done it without the help of my man apollo creed and rocky's face. The real credit belongs to the montage though. Without it we would still be watching rocky II wondering who was gonna win.
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@Regenwurm
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Klima durchweg sehr gut. 2 mal reines Regenwasser und 1 mal Zusätze von Green Buzz in dieser Woche gegossen. Den Ladies geht es auch ohne Dünger (mit sehr wenig Dünger) in dieser Phase hervorragend. Den Haupstamm HST um die Seitenteilen zu puschen. Lichtstärke auf 45 % erhöht bei gleichem Abstand von rd. 40 cm. Heute Licht auf 45 % erhöht. Luftfeuchtigkeit und Temperatur punktlandung, in der Nacht etwas zu hoch und in dieser Woche nur 2 l Wasser zum befeuchten gebraucht. Heißt, wegen platzgründen kommt diese Woche der befeuchtet raus und der entfeuchter in das Zelt. Mitte bis Ende der Woche stelle ich um auf Blüte.