Week 7 of Flower going well, plants seem to be stressed a little bit though I believe it's either some slight nute burn or a nute lockout caused by overfeeding. Runoff EC coming out about 200 higher than the input also runoff ph is around 5.4-5.5 which to me indicates slight overfeeding. Going to feed one more week every other day with a watering in between each feeding ph'd to 5.7, than I will start my 2 week flush using clearex by botanicare and plain ph'd water. Some nice purples have also started to really come out this week and the trichomes are constantly packing on.

Ph6.5

I just wished I planted this in a bigger pot but hey this was my first auto and it’s turning out great

A lot going on this week!! Feeding 3 quarts every Sunday and Wednesday at this point. I did a light defoliation on Monday and did a more thorough defoliation on Friday! I opened up a lot of bud sights and it shows in the pics from late in the week!! I just turned the fan and carbon filter on. Temps are currently holding at 73-74F and the humidity is between 43-45%. I'm very happy with that! I hope to keep them both happy!! Enjoy!

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Week 8 is going great, started flush toward the end of week 7 on Zkittlez and OG Kush. Also started flushing Pink Kush CBD and Purple Punch at start of week 8. All are packing weight still and smelling very fragrant. Trichomes are starting to cloud out and I am planning on harvesting when trichomes are starting to amber.

Empiezan a oler bastante bien. El primer riego de esta semana fue de 1200ml. Les he conectado un extractor con salida a la calle porque empezaba a oler toda mi casa. Último riego de la semana 1500ml

Ec 1.5 ph 5.8 lampada 30/40cm

Another straightforward week in the grow room. All three Phenos continue to look fine with good leaf color. I've been working on this super soil recipe for three grows now. I learn a little more with each attempt and come to find this particular blend in larger 7 gallon grow bags IMHO is passing the eye test. All three are in stretch, so I'll continue to keep an eye out over the next 2-3 weeks. In the 3x3, I have manage height. No additional feedings just watered ph'd between 5.8 and 6.2. I do water at top as well as bottom (wicking). These girls are already beginning to exhibit a loud smell. Just bought a new carbon filter, which I will swap out today. This closes out the week. Thanks for stopping by.

In the video by mistake, the last pruning was done by cutting the fourth knot, however all were left with their cut to the third knot :) Happy growth!😁

Another straightforward week. Increased pk 13/14 and they’re starting to fatten up nicely and smell good to. Bit annoying the left plant has a few branches that have stretched out as I’d of liked to have got the light down a bit closer to the ones below.

Now in the 15 liter felt pots

Hey guys! I hope quarantine is going well for everyone! And remember to stay at home if you can ✊ Regarding my babies, this week's update was OK. Nothing really happened besides that I once again missed my watering schedule 😟 and heat was not being kind. The tent reached a maximum temp. of 32° C (or 89.6° F) which as a lot but sadly there's little I can do about that 😢 There's a photo this week that shows how Pistachio looks after I didn't water her in the right day, the recovery is impressive! I also increased the amount of PK and gladly there are no signs of over fertilization as well, so I'll keep doing this! 😃 Trichomes are developing, some of them are white-ish but most of them are still transparent. They are getting there! I also learned a new technique for my macro photographies so probably they'll be better this week compared to previous ones! I'm eager to know what you all think! 😊 Anyway, see you all in my next update! 👋

She was thirsty this morning and watered not too long before update; hence not completely perky. Working on heavy LST to make best use of space when it gets moved to flower tent. Unsure how long I’ll keep her in veg. Photos/video taken 35 days after breaking soil

Stretch de 7cm temperature variable 14-28degres le stretch n’est pas fini !! La Flo avance tout doucement je sent que sa va être un monstre 🤞

KRITIC AUTO by KANNABIA Week #14 Overall Week #11 Flower She's got one more week before harvest. She's a beautiful plant with her orange and shades of purple in her frosty buds and her danky smell! Stay Growing!! Kannabia.com KRITIC AUTO

~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ 1/15/22 😻Week 5 of veg and things are looking good! I didn't know how I wanted to train these so my husband's suggested we top 2 plants and low-stress the other 2.. I went a little too heavy with their last feeding, no burned tips yet but 2 of them are very dark, we'll be doing water only for these this week..there is some minor discoloration on a couple of the lower leaves nothing major but something we're watching..we'll update again midweek..thanks for all the love Growmies ❤️🌱 ⚡Mars Hydro/SP-3000⚡ Specifications ⚙️: Diodes: Samsung LM301B / Osram 660nm (960 total!) Driver: Meanwell 300watt 🔌 (300W±5% @AC120V-277V) PPF: 824umol/S ☢️ PPE: 2.8 µmol/j 〰️〰️ Lifespan: >50k hrs ⌛ Weight: 10.1 lbs (4.6kg) Veg Coverage: 3 x 5 ft 🌱 Flowering Coverage: 2 x 4 ft 🌼 -The SP-3000 uses an aluminum heatsink (no fan) and the driver can be placed outside the tent 🌡️⬇️ -IP65 waterproof ratings, tolerant to high humidity grow environments 💦 .. -Up to 15 can be daisy-chained together and all controlled from a single light 💡~💡~💡~💡~💡 ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ 1/18/22 Things are good 😺👌..New growth seems to be coming in fast on the 2 plants we topped...much faster growth than we've seen up to this point..all plants seem happy and all have a great color (after working out my slight overfeeding )..we've been running the MarsHydro near the top of the tent the entire grow as a test and its still more than adequate. .we don't have a light meter but we do have some crazy tight node spacing to confirm lol...I still say these plants are a little on the small side but they seem to be growing faster now..I'm pretty sure leaving them rootbound in cups didn't help their development...I think they're finally becoming adjusted to their new homes and we'll see some explosive growth in the coming week 💡🌱... fingers crossed 😺🤞 ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ 01/19/22 AHHHHHH!!! I DID IT AGAIN!! Kicked my timer power after watering yesterday and put these into about 14hrs of darkness 😥.. lights are back on, hopefully they didn't notice lol.. ah well these things happen and I'm sure they'll be just fine ❤️🌱 ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~

Day 43 this orange is running absolutely faster than the last I did. Every day flowers are getting bigggers and resin is awful to be at 42 days. I’m really loving aptus product, but I really can’t ell what’s is pushing her so fast. Behind, in the video, you can see another auto is a strawberry banana and germinated with just 24 h difference but is starting just now to get into flowering, same soil ‘, same feeding.. incredible Let’s see what s happen

Alaskan purple is growing great under the Medic Grow Mini Sun-2. she is in heavy bulking now. She is eating, and drinking a lot. 🤞🏻she keeps it up. Looking for a good finish in the contest. Thank you Medic Grow, and Seedsman. 🤜🏻🤛🏻💪🏻❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g