Evertyhing looks fine. A lot of small buds - let´s see how they will develop.

***Sponsored Grow*** = Medic || https://medicgrow.com || Grow = ***Sponsored Grow*** Ok big update this week, I finally edited the footage of the lights and got their unboxing photos processed, this took way longer then expected and should have been done on germination or week 1 entry but better late then never. You can really see how the lights shine in comparison to my older ones. The brightness of the leds is next level and I can use their V1 spectrum from seed to harvest. Its a great balance of red and blue in a full spectrum light. The medic grow mini sun 2 is a all purpose light that I can see myself getting lots of use out of in the future. Plus they fit in my tent just as snug as my last ones and that's a big thing for me, I don't like dim corners. I am using the lights at 80% dim level. this will be raised to 100% when they enter flower :D First time useing lights I can dim. they also have an onboard timer attached to them, I will be playing aorund with this to see if its something I want to use in the coming weeks, I all ready have all the external timers so I can see how this is a useful tool for anyone starting off without them. On top of all this I also transplanted my plants into their final pots. they went from a .7-.8L to a 2gal or 7.5L, all the root balls on the plants where perfect, nice white roots, maybe a bit compacted for the size and might explain why I am having some issues with them but healthy none the less. I think they will not start to grow a bit better and I will see less issues moving forward. I still have yet to get a new PH pen but I am blindly guessing the PH by adding 2 drops of phosphoric acid ph down per 1gal of feed solution. it seems to be working out just fine. Till next week. ***Sponsored Grow*** Official Website: https://medicgrow.com/ + https://www.kannabia.com/en Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/medicgrowled + https://www.facebook.com/kannabiaseed/ Twitter: https://twitter.com/medicgrow + https://twitter.com/kannabiaseeds Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/medicgrow420/ + https://www.instagram.com/kannabiaseedsint YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNmiY4F9z94u-8eGj7R1CSQ + https://www.youtube.com/c/KannabiaSeedCompany Growdiaries: https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled https://growdiaries.com/grow-lights/medic-grow + https://growdiaries.com/grower/kannabia https://growdiaries.com/seedbank/kannabia

Day 70. Gorgeous plant. Leaves are changing color exactly how the advertisement looks. Fastbuds is dope.

Buenas noches comunidad. Esta noche se ven creciendo con gran vigorosidad estas cepas Chilenas Pure Inferno y Bloodnana, actualmente esta finalizando su 6ta semana., desde sus 2 hojas reales. las nenas se alimentas bien y se ven felices actualmente se da alimenta con fertilizante Advance nutrients. en riego, se da una ves por semana advance nutriens y 2 solo agua sola. PH:6.3 EC:1850

Topped this plant been a few days fingers crossed she stays in veg state

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Jour42 ma plante entre bien en floraison je pratique sur elle une defolliation pour permettre aux têtes de prendre la lumière La floraison des plantes de cannabis La plante de cannabis passe par différentes étapes de vie avant de parvenir à la récolte. Ces étapes sont : la germination, la pré-croissance, la croissance et la floraison. Pour les autofloraisons il n'est pas nécessaire d'avoir de changer le cycle de lumière elle entre en floraison automatiquement voilà d'où elle tient son nom "d'autofloraison" L'origine de l'auto-floraison vient de la sous-espèce "cannabis sativa ruderalis" , qui à l'origine produit de très faibles niveaux de THC. C'est en croisant cette variété de marijuana avec d'autres qui produisent des niveaux de THC plus élevés qu'à vu le jour ce magnifique compromis que sont les variétés auto-fleurissantes avec des taux de THC très satisfaisants. En parallèle, cela a permis d'améliorer la production de ces variétés, qui initialement étaient exceptionnellement basse. Pour des résultats optimaux, en culture Outdoor (extérieur), je recommande que la germination des graines de marijuanaAuto-flo se fasse entre avril et août. En culture Indoor(intérieur), la photopériode idéale que ce soit pour la croissance comme pour la floraison est de 20h de lumière. N'oubliez pas que ces graines ne sont pas tributaires de la photopériode pour passer en floraison. Il est préférable d'utiliser des pots d'une capacité de 10 à 20L dès le début, étant donné que leur cycle de vie est réduit, les auto-flo n'ent pas besoin de plus de volume pour se développer. Vu sa petite taille (et la discrétion) elle fait l'objet d'un bon choix pour la culture de cannabis sur balcons. La première variété de Lowryder auto-floraison a été créé à partir de cannabis indica sativa croisé avec des génétiques de cannabis sativa rudelaris par la banque de graines de marijuana "The Joint Doctor". Puis vinrent la White Dwarf de "Buddha Seeds", la Roadrunnerde "Dinafem", l' Auto Stoned d' "Autofem", la Speed Devil de "Sweet Seeds" , la Maxi Gom de "Grassomatic", la Flash, la Gnomo de Kannabiaet bien d'autres. Jour42 defolliation (video) Avant toute chose n'oublions pas de bien désinfecter ses outils et bien ce laver les mains. Quesque la defolliation ? LES CULTIVATEURS AMATEURS, PRENEZ GARDE, MAIS NE PRENEZ PAS PEUR La défoliation consiste à retirer les feuilles des plants de cannabis en intérieur afin d'accroître le rendementfinal. Le cultivateur amateur doit faire preuve de vigilance lorsqu'il commence à appliquer cette technique de taille. Malgré le débat sans fin entre ceux qui prônent cette technique et ceux qui la dénigre, il n'y aucune raison pour qu'un amateur ne s'y essaie pas afin de voir si ça lui convient ou non. COMMENT DÉFOLIER Que vous tailliez les feuilles ou les branches des plants de cannabis, il vaut mieux utiliser un sécateur stérile qui est confortable en main. Arracher des feuilles à la main manque de finesse et engendre souvent par accident, l'arrachement des couches d'une tige en plus de la feuille. L'objectif principal de la défoliation est de permettre une meilleure pénétration de la lumière et de promouvoir la production de plus grosses têtes. Les feuilles éventails qui font de l'ombre doivent être retirées. Tailler la tige principale et/ou les pousses secondaires n'est pas de la défoliation. La règle d'or lorsque vous donnez à vos plantes un rafraîchissement est de commencer avec les feuilles nourricières les plus grandes et les plus larges, en taillant du bas vers le haut. Il est important de retirer les feuilles stratégiquement et non pas au hasard. Pensez également qu'il vous faut limiter votre rafraîchissement à approximativement 10 à 20 % des feuilles totales de votre pied. Il est très facile de s'emporter durant la taille et de se retrouver avec des plantes chauves. Un excès de taille de feuilles empêchera la photosynthèse et paralysera vos plants. QUAND FAUT-IL DÉFOLIER Il est assez rare d'appliquer la défoliation comme seule technique pour obtenir un fort rendement. La taille des feuilles est généralement associée à d'autres méthodes de tailles et de palissage pour un meilleur rendement telles que le topping ou étêtage, le FIMming, le LST, le manifolding, le supercropping et le ScrOG. Les cultivateurs utilisant la méthode ScrOG auront besoin de retirer toutes les croissances inférieures ainsi que les feuilles et les tiges se trouvant sous le filet. Les plants de cannabis peuvent être défoliés dès lors qu'ils sont passés de la phase de plantule vers la phase de croissance végétative. Cependant, il est recommandé aux cultivateurs amateurs de laisser aux plantes 1 à 2 semaines de croissance végétative avant de s'attaquer à la défoliation de celles-ci. De plus, certaines variétés sont plus sensibles à la taille que d'autres et de ce fait, seront plus stressées par la taille des feuilles. Surveillez minutieusement le comportement de vos plants après la taille. Une période de convalescence de minimum 3 à 7 jours avant de recommencer la défoliation est fortement recommandée pour éviter trop de stress aux plants. Les cultivateurs peuvent également défolier pendant la phase de floraison, ce qui permettra à l'énergie de la plante d'être concentrée vers la production de têtes tout en limitant l'ombre et l'excès d'humidité. Néanmoins, il est important de ne pas défolier trop tard sous peine de simplement blesser ses plants inutilement. LES AVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Évidemment, l'avantage numéro un de la défoliation, c'est l'augmentation du potentiel de rendement de cette technique de taille pour tous types de cannabis allant de la photopériode aux variétés autofloraison. Ce n'est pas un secret que les fleurs qui reçoivent plus de lumières deviennent plus grandes et larges que celles dissimulées dans l'ombre des feuilles. De plus, retirer les feuilles intérieures des plants touffus aide à prévenir toutes menaces de moisissure. Les plants très feuillus avec un feuillage intérieur dense produiront une quantité importante de têtes pop-corn. Dans le pire des cas, les branches de têtes et les têtes qui sont denses succomberont au pourrissement. Si vous observez des gouttes d'eau se former sur la surface des feuilles, il est grand temps de penser à faire de la défoliation. Libérer la zone inférieure et médiane des feuilles est un excellent moyen d'améliorer la circulation de l'air. LES DÉSAVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Les plants de cannabis en intérieur bénéficient de la défoliation pour deux raisons. La première est parce qu'ils reçoivent la lumière d'une source stationnaire au-dessus d'eux, et la deuxième est parce que les conditions environnementales sont contrôlées par le cultivateur et non Mère Nature. Les plants d'extérieurs eux, n'y gagnent pas beaucoup, car les cas échéants se vérifient pour eux. Le soleil traverse le ciel, illuminant sur sa route, différentes portions de la plante de son lever à son coucher. Les cultivateurs en extérieur n'ont pas besoin de manipuler les plantes afin qu'elles se développent en adoptant une structure plate puisque le soleil est infiniment plus puissant que n'importe quelle lampe de culture et qui plus est, il est toujours en mouvement. Tailler les feuilles des plants extérieurs les rend également plus vulnérables aux conditions humides et brise leurs barrières naturelles contres les nuisibles. De nombreux cultivateurs d'intérieur peuvent, et malheureusement, c'est souvent le cas, réduire le rendement final à cause d'une défoliation faite au mauvais moment et/ou excessive. Tailler les plantules n'est pas conseillé et engendre souvent des plants nains. Scalper les plants matures est encore pire, et au lieu d'obtenir de longues branches de têtes, vous obtiendrez probablement encore moins de fleurs. De même, tailler des plants malades ou en mauvaise santé à n'importe quelle période de la croissance risque de paralyser la croissance plutôt que d'encourager la formation de fleurs denses. Jour44 Arrosage une fois sur 2 topmax de biobizz Jour46 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 0.8g par litre d'eau de feeding enhancer greenhouse. Jour47 léger arrosage. Jour48 léger arrosage

Germination date 🌰 03/03/2021 Day 36 🌱 11/04/2021 Strain 🍁 Purple Matcha, Humboldt seed bank Nutrients 💉 Advanced nutrients PH perfect sensi grow A+B (veg) PH perfect sensi bloom A+b (flower) B-52 (through veg until week2 of flower) Voodoo juice (🖕🏻) Tarantula (🖕🏻) Piranha (🖕🏻) Sensizym (all the way through) Rhino skin (🖕🏻) add first leave for an hour Big bud coco (week2+ of flower Bud xfactor (🖕🏻) Nirvana (🖕🏻) Bud igniter (first 2weeks of flower) Overdrive (last 2weeks of flower) Flawless finish (flush week) RockHoldings Rockresinator(week2+ of flower) Vitalink calmag Set Up ⛺ amazon special 1.2m x1.2m 💡 spiderfarmer sf4000 📤📥 AC infinity 6inch 💧 10lt dehumidifier Notes🗒️✏️ Well impressed with this for my first ever coco grow 🌱👍🏻 shes looking so good. Humboldt producing some good quality seeds. I did pay a small fortune for them but looks well worth ever buck spent! Rising the ec up this week to 1.0 and will leave it there until I flip. Pretty sure I could go more but I just dont think it's worth it although I do have the best master grower at hand (PharmaZ) follow his account 👍🏻🌱 Cant really fault Advanced nutrients with this strain. I'm running 9 different nutrients of theirs and it's working out nicely no hic cups at all. Now I've seen online somewhere that you cant add bud factor x with other advanced nutrients when flowering? Is this true and genuine help would be grateful Happy growing everyone 🌱🍁

👉Alrighty Then👈 So we are at DAY 35 of Flowering with the Sugar Larry 👈 And she's doing fantastic 👍shes finally done with her stretching 👌 and building Budz 👈 😀 decided to showcase pheno #2 , definitely has different traits then #1 very interesting 😀 thoe both are killing it 👈 Hedgehogs in full bloom 👈 I did a major strip , defolation is complete 👌 Except for some slight watering , ive been doing some defolation as well as some LST manipulation to pull branches to the side 👌 👉I had to Top her during the middle of 4th week 👍 Happy Growing 👉Soil Provided by ProMix.ca 👉Nutrients Provided by Agrogardens 👉Lighting Provided by MarsHydro.ca Thanks my friends for the great support over the years 🙏 Happy Growing

Week 3: Since this is my first grow, I love to see how quickly the cannabis plant grows, and it's accelerating rapidly. They are thriving and healthy. This week, I used fertilizer for the first time, starting with half the amount recommended in the feeding schedule. 0,5/ml per liter.

Hello. This is the end of week 10 and the beginning of week 11 of veg. Things are going good in here... It will be another couple of weeks before I flip to flowering. The plants are training well and growing good... No problem with pests. Yeah... doing good. Ok. Be Cool. Chuck.

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

Girls are healthy and juicy,getting ready for the light switching,changing pots and also some defo probably 💚🌱

✌️🎃 Thank you for checking my cultivation. ✨ Great development in this week. 🌿 Starting LST in #1

End of week 4 for GG4 Sherbet FF and it seems that this week was good for her. She is bouncing back little by little from her issues. She stretching slowly she is taking her time and that is ok with me. She just got fed some Goldleaf feterlizer and I did some defoliating on her to remove some of the bad leaves.. let's see how week 5 goes.

Intermediate Results Overview This grow was intense! Setting up the grow consumed so much of my time and focus that I started slacking at work, and it took me a month to get back on track. But hey, what’s the point of a job if it gets in the way of growing? 😉 In the end, everything worked out, and I gained invaluable experience. This was my first grow using coco coir. At first, I didn’t get it, but then it just clicked! Now I’m hooked: "I’m here to stay." Coco is more controlled than soil, flushes easily, and you can introduce beneficial microbes, which thrive in it. My main takeaway from this grow? If you buy coco, don’t forget CalMag! Next time, I’ll definitely install HEPA filters at the intake. The amount of dust was insane, and the grow box pulls air like a vacuum cleaner. Watching the timelapse, you can see the box sucking in every bit of dust. I vacuumed the intake filters weekly. The plant was incredibly sticky, but that also meant it caught a lot of lint and fibers between trichomes, especially visible under a microscope. Smoking microplastics? No, thank you! --- On CO2 CO2 only works if everything else is dialed in. If the plant experiences stress from deficiencies or overfeeding, you can forget about it. Since CO2 supplementation requires turning off the exhaust fan, it’s hard to manage temperature and humidity. The plant releases so much moisture that RH jumps to 80% within minutes. It’s doable, but definitely a challenge. --- On Magnetic Fields No clue what’s happening here yet, but it’s fascinating! I’ll test again with a control sample. --- Nutrients Dreams do come true—I’ve tested almost everything Advanced Nutrients offers. It wasn’t all smooth sailing; their feeding charts need adjustments for your conditions, and you usually need to feed less than recommended. Overall, I’d say the nutrients performed 100%, and I see no reason to switch. I’ll stick with them for future grows. --- Strain This strain is reliable, though not the most productive. It flowered exactly as advertised and delivered a frosty finish. It tolerated all my mistakes like a champ—especially mold. Despite an abandoned SCROG plan turning the plant into a bouquet, there wasn’t a single mold spot, even in the densely packed lower buds that got almost no light. Zero mold issues! --- Aroma As advertised: pine, wood, and citrus. At first, I thought it smelled like grapefruit, but now I’m leaning toward bergamot. Bergamot with a classic weed aroma—a recognizable twist on the usual scent. During the grow, the smell was strong, but the carbon filter handled it perfectly. --- Flavor It’s too early to say, but the flavor is definitely there! Embarrassingly, all my past harvests tasted the same—like nothing. Just smoke. This one has a distinct sour taste. I’m excited to see how it develops after curing. --- Effect Too early for a full review, but I love what I’ve tried so far. The high lasts about three hours, with euphoria and relaxation. It’s the perfect evening strain. I’ve smoked a lot over the years, but I’ve never experienced true euphoria—until now. Guess I’ve been stuck with garbage and ditch weed before. 😅 It’s not a strain for productivity or chores, but it’s perfect for chilling, watching something, or chatting. No anxiety, just great vibes. It feels like having a beer after a long day: you relax, and life feels good again. --- Roots The roots were healthy—maybe too healthy! While the AirPot (20L) prevented root circling, it didn’t eliminate it entirely. There were dead zones at the bottom where roots circled around the perimeter. A dense root mat formed at the bottom (so dense you couldn’t poke a finger through it), which likely contributed to salt buildup. Breaking through that mat required more water, and I suspect this caused EC to spike 1.5x the next day if there was no runoff. Next time, I’ll mix some pumice with the substrate at the bottom, about 3–4 cm deep. --- Timelapse I only got the timelapse running after the switch to flowering, so it’s not from the beginning. Still, it’s an incredibly useful tool for understanding growth rates. I’ll definitely use it for future grows. Comparing yesterday to today is one thing, but rewinding a week to see how things were is game-changing. I recommend it! You can even use an old phone with a timelapse app if your camera doesn’t support it by default. --- What’s Next I’ve grown fat buds before, but I’ve always neglected curing. This time, I’m doing it by the book with full control. Drying in the grow box with RH controlled at 50–60% (averaging 55%) for a slow, even dry. Temps are kept between 20–23°C, with frequent venting to keep it below 21°C for terpene preservation. After 7–10 days, when small stems snap with a characteristic sound, I’ll trim and jar them with humidity sensors. For the first two weeks, I’ll burp the jars twice daily, then reduce to once daily for the next two weeks. After that, I’ll monitor the RH sensors and adjust as needed. I’ll share the details after curing is complete. After drying, I’ll weigh the buds, take photos, and share another post in a month or two after curing to report on the flavor and aroma. For now, I’m taking a breather, fine-tuning my setup, and preparing for my next grow: Wizard Trees - Zangria S1.

🇩🇪 Zum trocknen habe ich die Pflanze in drei Teile geteilt und sie leicht vorgetrimmt (Fanleafs ab) an Kleiderbügeln im Zelt aufgehangen. 13 Tage bei 62% Luftfeuchtigkeit und 23 Grad 🇺🇸 To dry, I divided the plant into three parts and lightly pre-trimmed it (removing fan leaves), then hung it on hangers in the tent. It dried for 13 days at 62% humidity and 23°C. 🇪🇸 Para secar, dividí la planta en tres partes y la pre-podé ligeramente (eliminando las hojas grandes), luego la colgué en perchas en la tienda. Se secó durante 13 días a 62% de humedad y 23°C.

The candy cush bounced back with resilience this week after the transplant. She is about to go into stretch and seems to be doing well this week.