Hey everyone . This week she has developed further :-). The bush is slowly becoming a tree 😅. As usual, it smells very good and produces very nice buds. Next week the Ec will be increased a little more as soon as all the power goes into the buds 👍. I wish you all a lot of fun with the new update, stay healthy and let it grow 🙏🏻👍 Strain : Sour Diesel ☝️🏼😍 Genetic: Diesel x Northern Lights 👍 Vega Lights : 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lights : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡 ☝️ Soil : Canna Terra Professional + ☝️ Nutrients : Canna Terra Vega, Canna Terra Flores, Rizotonic, Cannazym, CANNA Boost, Pk 13/14, Canna Cal/Mag, Canna Ph - Grow, Canna Ph - Flores ☝️ 🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EG. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 6.0 💦 💧

Cheiro muito forte de Pinho e baunilha. Com certeza é o melhor resultado que já obtive cultivando com o coco.

Día 36. Estamos en 6ta semana. Los esquejes se atrasaron debido a que han sido días muy fríos y no he logrado enraizarlos. Decidí poner el extractor de aire junto con la bomba de aire, así solamente se prende 15 minutos cada hora. Así estoy logrando temperaturas mayores a 24°C en el indoor y así voy a lograr el enraizado. La planta ya tiene un tamaño que ocupa casi todo el indoor. Pero lo importante es que la voy guiando y ya estoy proyectando como va a ir cada rama. El tamaño va a exceder lo que esperaba, pero aún así creo que si logro lo que tengo en mente, voy a sacar muy buenos resultados. Igual no me voy a arriesgar demasiado, así que si contando 10 días desde ahora, no logro que los esquejes enraicen, voy a pasar la madre a floración sola. Cómo pueden ver, las ramas están bastante gruesas, y el la ramificaciones van ganando su lugar cada una. Las raíces son demasiado grandes, aunque sé que voy a poder poner la planta en el sistema de arriba igual, aunque me voy a tener que ayudar de algo para meterlas. Es importante no utilizar las manos, ya que se pueden transmitir muchos hongos. Voy a seguir actualizando e ir viendo que pasa. Pero ya estamos en los últimos días de crecimiento, haya o no esquejes. Incluso puede que ya pase la planta al indoor de arriba para darle mayor libertad de crecimiento. Esto me va a servir para tlmar en cuenta en la próxima camada que se vendrá. La idea de esto es hacer las cosas rápido, y no en gran tamaño. Pero siendo que ya estoy en el baile, no me queda otra que bailar. Día 40 Los esquejes no estaban enraizando, así que decidí cambiarlos de lugar y los puse arriba de la luz, donde les da calor y luz tenue. Espero que ahora si agarren. Y hoy fue el gran día, pasé la planta madre al módulo de arriba. Pero lo voy a dejar una semana más creciendo. De esa forma veo si los esquejes llegan a agarrar a tiempo. Y además tuve un problema en el trasplante. Primero que la planta se hizo más grande que lo esperado, y la raíz también. Cuando la pasé, hubo contacto de la raiz con prácticamente todo lo que había cerca. Sumado a que se enredó en el oxigenador, así que quedó una pidra difusora en la raíz. Dado el alto riesgo de haberla contaminado con algún hongo, le puse una solución de agua con agua oxigenada, recirculando continuamente, para lavar las raices y de paso bajar el stress de teansplante. Mañana veremos cómo arranca el día. En el aprendizaje me llevo que en la madre, es mejor hacer un corte en el primer nudo, o dejar las ramas del segundo y quitar las del primero. Y así que queden sólo dos ramas, para luego dejar a los esquejes en el medio. Eso planeo hacer con la próxima variedad. Entre tanto ahora sólo me preocupa que la raíz no se haya contaminado en el traspaso. Ya en 8 días estaré pasando a floración si no hay esquejes. Si llegan a agarrar, habrá que dar unos días de crecimiento hasta que alcancen a la madre en altura. Pero ya está todo en definición. Ahora sólo queda esperar y seguir guiando a la planta. Ya tengo ganas de poner la próxima, pero falta bastante para eso. Tengo 10 semanas de flora, así que recién en 5 semanas voy a poner la nueva madre.

I am a little bit worried about its flowers size so I've duplicated the green sensation dose from 1mL/L to 2mL/L due I haven't using any other fertilizer apart from the banana (+potato+honey) juice . These photos are intended to take a look at the state of their trichomes, since, according to the variety information, there is only one week left to be harvested (although I do not believe it). Lets see what happens.

6/1 she is in flower. Gave her a feeding yesterday. 6/2 she is starting to fill out and has good color. She is a stinky little plant. Someone told me cheese is really skunk#1 that the name was changed in England to cheese. 6/5 she is moving along. She is not very tall but her buds are getting thick fast.

Some beautiful plants especially 1 and 2. Sweet skittles smell. Happy with outcome.

Note : + jegliches Zubehör wird in der GermniationsWoche aufgelistet . Zeitraffer Videos folgen immer nachträglich. + videos werden so geschnitten das nur ein geschlossenes Zelt erscheint , ergo Fehlen paar reale Minuten (ca 1 Std) . Day 64: Die Nacht war kalt und die Ventilatoren an . Ergebnis , der Hauptrieb der viel ventilation abbekommt ist wunderschön dunkel geworden. Bilder hinzugefühgt um mal den Vergleich zu haben , beide haben die gleiche Bedingung , sowohl Dünger als auch Licht . Nur das Zoe mehr Wind abbekommt und damit halt eine kältere Nacht erhalten hat . Wir sehen das es wohl keine wirklichen defiziete. Es ist ein verhalten auf die Kälte. Day 65: + 1.75 Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Canna Rhizotonic + + + Canna PH+ + + PH 5.91 Day 66: Das viele Licht zeigt wie es aus allen Seiten der Buds wächst . Das ist nicht gerade ein Qualitätsmerkmal , eher ein Quantitätsmerkmal . Aber ich möchte auch wissen wie stark sich das auf die Qualität auswirkt . Die Schwester hinkt zwar kräftig hinterher wegen ihrem Wasserschaden, aber zum Rauchen allemal gut . Leichte Cal-Mag Probleme werden sichtbar . Day 67: + 2 Liter Flaschenwasser + + Spülung + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Plagron PH- + + PH 6.0 Day 68: keine besonderen Anzeichen , die Luftfeuchtigkeit ist so zwischen 60% bis 64% . Geht gerade nicht anders . Ist jetzt aber zum abreifen auch nicht Schlimm . Dafür sind die Temperaturen bei konstanten 26°C Day 69: Alles läuft nach Plan. Kein defizit, ergo , es wird nur rest Dünger in der Erde abgebaut. Day 70: + 2 Liter Flaschenwasser + + Dünger für Blühte Generative Phase III + + + Canna Terrar Flores (Achtung wirkt wie PH-) + + + Canna Boost + + + Cannazym + + + Canna Rhizotonic + + + Canna PH+ + + PH 5.91

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

It has been raining and raining since whatever... 2 weeks....checked the trichomes nice milky white. Based on the fact the the weather won't be better and also the temperature is lower day by the now usually 6 Celsius degrees in the evening and 13-16 during the day or less, I decided to harvest next week. I was thinking to let her out 3 more weeks just to have more amber trichomes but she is OK, ready but this weather is not ... She is sativa dominant as I saw in the breeder's description so totally cool. So she ain't gonna be maturing that much she reached the point.... especially because no sun.... ... but compare to that she has som nice colas so I am excited let's see soo guys. Thanks all of you checking this progress out. Beautiful lady, large LST made her really nice literally she looks like more plant but yes ONLY ONE PLANT IN THE PICTURE AND THE GARDEN :) Have a lovely day :)

SWISS DREAM ROSE 🌹 CBD AUTO ORGANIC by KANNABIA Week #14 Overall Week #11 Flower This week she's looking great and smells sweet 😋 after checking trichomes she's got one week left before harvest buds are really dense she's just a wonderful plant to grow 😊 I haven't had any issues at all with this lady!! Stay Growing!! Kannabia.com Swiss Dream Rose🌹 CBD Auto

Cuarta semana de vegetación, esperaremos 1 semana más para poner a estas nenas en su quinta semana a floración, vamos a ver omo se va dando la cosa, buenos humos

Only repotted after 40 days because I wanted to give the plant to a friend first. You can see the big ladies in my other diary. Lets see if she still can bring me a nice yield.

🌱 Day 29 - First Day of Flowering Phase 🌱 Hey everyone! 🌿 I'm super excited to finally enter the flowering phase of my first grow! I have to admit, I was quite surprised to see that the plant had already been in pre-flower for three days and are developing really well. 🌸 Current Conditions for the Flowering Phase: Watered today with 800ml + 1ml/L BioBizz Bloom 💧🌿 Humidity: 50-55% 💧 Light: 100% intensity, 50cm distance, 16 hours light, 8 hours dark 💡🌙 Current Issues: I'm dealing with a few small yellow spots on the leaves, which seem to be caused by a calcium and magnesium deficiency.

Le séchage n'étant pas terminé au complet l'odeur n'est pas encore présente comme il faut mais très beau bourgeons

Day 56 of flower. She looks pretty much done, could chop now but will give it till day 60 She's just nicely densening up now

Day 71 (August 26th): Watered the ladies again today, everything is still looking great. Pheno 1 is starting to get yellow leaves, still diagnosing the issue. Day 73: The soil is drying out super fast. The roots are coming up through the soil now. These girls are root bound for sure. Next grow will be 20 gallon pots for sure. Day 74: I’ve got a nitrogen deficiency on one of my phenos. Added a bit more Power Bloom 2-8-4. It’s a bit too early for these girls to be starving for nitrogen. A couple more weeks and I’ll let it fly. Day 77: That’s a wrap on week 5 of flower. 3-4 weeks until harvest!

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

Buenos días familia, de nuevo os traigo esta esta 5 semana de floración de nuestras green ak xL de zambezaseeds. Una está algo bloqueada y no quiere comer nutrientes la otra ya va mejor y si come. Ph controlado temperatura y humedad dentro de los parámetros establecidos. Una cepa bastante difícil de dominar muy sensible a los cambios, pero que seguro bien cultivada dará todo de sí, xL su nombre lo dice.