Ok Blue toof is really doing great. She smells of sweet fruit, it is a very nice smell. Raised ppm to 680 she was fine at 600. Defoleated all the bottom. She sure showing her indica traits. The leaves are nice and fat. Her stem has gotten nice and fat also. It is the biggest of the bunch. I really like the shape and branches are also nice and fat. Hung the second light. So let the show go on.

📆 Week 13, 16-22 April 2024 16-20 April - Let the plant grow. 21 April - Increased light power to 100%. 22 April - Let grow and observe for signs of light stress. This week her bud began to grow in length, so I decided it was time to turn up the light intensity to help manage this process. This will bring the DLI to 60. Understanding this is a high level I do closely watch and observe. Because the light has increased the heat will raise some, so there may be a chance of burn to look out for. I dont expect either one because of the distance from plant to light, but am aware. Her water consumption will also increase. 🍶 16 April changed nutrient solution 🍽️ 16 April updated feeding schedule 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🐉 Nutrient Solution EC 2.6 at 69 degree F 🔆 Light power at 100%, DLI 55-60 canopy coverage at 12hrs 😤 Using General Hydroponics, HGC728040, Dual Diaphragm Air Pump, 320 GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.

Videos: 10 días despertando , transplante 12 días , algunos sistemas radiculares y despertando post transplante . 🌱Solución de riego a micorrizas : Mycochum y luego riego completo cuando despierten . Ocupamos granular y great white en polvo para transplante , mitad y mitad. Ph: 6,0 Ec: 0,7 🌱Solución riego a foleo 1 hora antes que despierten : 1 litro : proactive 5,0 ml y knactive 2 ml. Ec : 0,5 Ph: 6,0 🌱Sumamos alfalfa alrededor de los tréboles 👑Actualización Jardin 18-19 días . ⌛️Videos : 🎥18 días , con hambre y sueño. 🎥19 días antes de dormir 🎥19 días despertando post foleo y post preventivo de tierra de diatomeas , listas para transplante en 1 semana . 🌱Solución foleo 2 litros : knactive + proactive (4,0 ml ) y ( 0,8 de proactive ( melazas , quitina , etc ) Y sumamos preventivo después que se secó el foleo. Ec : 0,4 Ph: 6,1 🌱metimos amarres al central y full lst .

Día 92 (20/01) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 - Reviso los tricomas, y a pesar de tener muchos pistilos blancos, detecto un 50% de tricomas nublados / 50% tricomas transparentes La cosecha se acerca para este monstruo! Día 93 (21/01) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 - Los cogollos siguen engordando! Never ending lady! Día 94 (22/01) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 - Los cogollos siguen y siguen engordando. Increible! Día 95 (23/01) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 - Cada día pistilos nuevos y mayor densidad! 😍💥 Día 96 (24/01) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 - Se acerca la cosecha Día 97 (25/01) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 - Reviso los tricomas: 49% transparentes, 50% nublados y 1% ambar. La senescencia general de la planta con muchas hojas amarillas y el estado de los tricomas me llevan a la cosecha! Día 98 (26/01) CBD Auto 20:1 #1 - Cosecha! 😍💥💨😁 Un viaje apasionante con esta monstruosa planta que ha crecido hasta 1,60 metros tras Supercropping en dos ocasiones, LST en incontables veces, Lollypopping en 2 ocasiones, varias defoliaciones... Hubiera sido increible tener en tierra madre (suelo) o en una maceta de 21 litros en exterior... Cogollos estilo sativa, no muy gruesos pero si densos y con forma de bate de beisbol, que en ningún momento paran de formar más y más pistilos nuevos! 💥 El color de los tricomas y la senescencia general de planta nos indica que ya está lista después de 98 días desde germinación Desprende un olor muy tropical, dulce, como una mezcla de papaya y mango, con un toque picante de fondo Esperemos a ver con que perfil terpenico nos sorprende después del secado y curado! Unos colores verde lima durante toda la fase de floración que ha ido mutando a morado en las puntas de los cogollos conforme se produce la senescencia Esperando a probarla para el efecto 😁

Week 9, what to say, I'm definitely doing this much better then last grow! Not seeing any major deficiencies, lower leaves are naturally going yellow and dropping off but the rest of the canopy is surprisingly green still! -Zambeza Super Silver Haze: Ahead of the bunch in size and ripeness iand s probably as chonk as it'll get, added some overdrive to finish it off. Not going to flush but probably will cut if in a week or 2 when I start seeing some Amber. -Royal Gorilla auto#1(the left one) Still buffing up and slowly getting more cone shaped and the stretching seems done now, filling out slowly, I think at least 3/4 weeks but not sure if my patience will agree. -Royal Gorilla auto#2 (the right one) The slow one of the bunch, seems to lag behind about a week so a month at least before it'll be done :/ Overall just doing 2 waters a week, wed & sun but they are getting more thirsty in noticing I just add nutes fairly freely, lowering the cal mag a bit, more top max and big bud. 450ppm Messed up the pH down today and I think it went in 5.9 but probably won't matter.

Today, at the second of January I decided to chop our 24k auto. About 10-20% amber trichomes , also on the smaller buds! The performance of the plant was great and also my first grow on coco gone well! Feeling good to grow in coco and I think I will try a second time. About 540g wet weight after a long trim session. Really happy with the outcome.

10/23: Fed today with one, signal, sweet & sticky, silica, beastie bloomz, and a little ca/mg. 10/27: Fed today with one, signal, sweet & sticky, silica, beastie bloomz, kangaroots, and humic acid. Lowered the lights to no more than a foot from any cola..most are 7-9" away.

Our beauty is now 9 weeks old and is in full bloom, delighting us with her appearance and aroma. Her buds are getting covered in a thick layer of fragrant trichomes, and the air is filled with a pleasant fruity scent—promising a wonderful finish. The climate in the tent remains stable: daytime temperature is 28°C, nighttime drops to 21°C, and humidity is kept at 65%. The light schedule is still 12/12, and we continue using CO2 to support the flowering process. We’re also consistently feeding her with Xpert Nutrients, which provide everything she needs during this critical stage. A huge thank you to Xpert Nutrients for their top-quality fertilizers that drive such vigorous flowering, and to Seeds Mafia for the amazing genetics that gave us this strong and aromatic beauty. We’re eagerly looking forward to the moment she fully ripens and rewards us with a great harvest!

Gorilla melon week 4

# RQS / (Dynamite Diesel) (Appel Fritter) (shogun) (Wedding Gelato).

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Both phenoe are pushing on nicely. Really good growth from both phenos from 1 seed, 1 had more girt. So, there wasn't an exact even growth ratio. But no pheno was hammered in any way that affected its push through pre fower and into mid fattening. I expect another 3-4 weeks and I'll harvest. Atm there's a nice Lemon exotic smell. Really dank. Musky (earthy). And popping off fruits. Really lovely set of plants. Xpert nutrients are bringing out the best in my grows. They smell, taste and pretty much everything in that regard has improved. These are my new nutrients. As hard as I've been strain hunting. I've always used a different line of Nutrients per crop. And I'm glad to say. These are by far THE BEST nutrients I've used to enhance my crop. Feeds Are pretty much a week in week out with change (all explained with my weeks, DLI and other factors), master root/enzymes have been pult. Master Root no longer needed. Enzymes are all gone. Maintenance This wk, i applied LST bamboo sticks are have done some basic node bending to get the best out of the space in the area above and around its base. Some nodes where tied back to the sticks.. Shout out to my sponsors and all who stop by.

At the end of week 6 the buds are bulking up and the trichomes are going milky with red hairs pulling in will wait for more amber trichs before harvest which I anticipate around week 8-10.

Tested a micro humidifier in this box too and it went horribly wrong, just flooded everywhere. Mind you, it did raise the humidity a bit :D More testing next week.

Off to week 5 and my ladies are looking healthy again after one week of struggle. Super excited for their progress this week. Height growth is now really noticable and I increased watering to 750ml/plant. Turned my SF SE3000 up to 80% and increased the distance to 60cm. So far they are loving it and I'm right on track for a good grow!

Week four was definitely the week when the plants started to really grow bigger, I started some LST at my way cause even if I check thousands of videos I end it up doing what I thought was better for my plants, I perhaps was a bit late so it wasn’t stretching as I thought it would have, maybe I shouldn’t have wait this long, but again first time learning a lots.. I let the plant grow with LST only in week 4 in week 5 I introduced a scrog I made myself cause I thought that I couldn’t keep doing lst because I started too late

Getting close to the end now. I can see the trichomes turning milky.

Very explosive growth this week! She is easily the tallest girl in the tent! No wonder she is called Jumping! Things progressing very well.

Strawberry gorilla is growing nicely have transferred to a bigger pot (should of done it a week early) she has started to grow white pastels Sticking with LST buy sting the branched down to allow more light in to other budsites Don't forget your 15% off your next seed order at fastbuds by using discount code 420CLUB