The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Day 42 Transition of the box into flowering I germinated two seeds that I received in a batch of 30. It is a mixture of seeds containing two different varieties. They will grow directly in 12/12. The Seeds come from a hybridization of Pink Lychee x Sorbetto and Pink Lychee x Grappe Inferno from Aficionado French Connection (Aficionado States) Pink Lychee [(Forbidden Fruit x Magnum Opus) x (Cherry Noir #18 x Rosé Especial)] Sorbetto [Zkittlez x Sunset Sherbet x Magnum Opus] Grape Inferno [Nepali OG X Querkle] (TGA Subcool)
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@cafer
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The roots of my plants are growing incredibly, I will move on to the flowering period in the 3rd week.
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I made a concoction of living soil using ingredients I could find of subcools formula. Theoretically all i need to add is ph balanced water. And a tea once I decide to flower. I'm waiting for some gadgets[ph and moisture meters]to come in before doing any extensive watering.
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Sorry for the late post had a very busy period. The buds are great, good feedback from patients. First time I've been able to taste a fully organic bud and I can say I won't be going back!
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@Sators
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Day 23 – Morning Calm Before the Sunny Surge A calm and promising start to Day 23. This morning, the air temperature was 15°C, and although the sun hadn’t yet reached the plant, the forecast points to a bright, warm day ahead – ideal for further outdoor strengthening. To prepare the plant for a full day in the sun, I provided a fresh watering of 1.3L of clean, pH-balanced tap water. The substrate was moderately dry, and the timing felt just right to keep the root zone hydrated before peak sun hours arrive. Observations: The plant’s structure continues to impress – strong, upright growth with a confident posture. Leaf spread is wide and balanced, indicating steady internal energy and photosynthetic activity. The main stem is visibly thickening, showing natural resilience developing from daily exposure. I’ve chosen a slightly shaded spot to begin the day, allowing the plant to ease into the rising sunlight gradually, preventing thermal shock during the early stages. The full sun will arrive soon, and with it – another valuable training session under the UK sky. Step by step, the outdoor rhythm becomes natural, and this CBD Auto 20:1 continues to adapt with grace and strength. Day 24 – Thriving Under the Heat, Watered with Caution Today brought another burst of sunshine to this outdoor journey – and with it, a true test of endurance for my CBD Auto 20:1. The air temperature in direct sun rose to 40°C, pushing the plant’s limits under intense midday exposure. Despite the scorching heat, she stood tall and open, absorbing every photon with strength and grace. The leaves showed no wilting or curling, which confirms that she’s adapting well to her natural surroundings. Watering: Due to time constraints in the morning, I had no choice but to water the plant in the late afternoon, using 1.3L of clean, pH-balanced tap water. Yes – many would argue that early morning watering is ideal, but sometimes reality calls for flexibility. The substrate had cooled slightly by then, and I made sure to pour gently and evenly, avoiding any root shock from hot soil contact. Observations: Leaf colour is rich and uniform – she’s clearly photosynthesising efficiently. The top growth is vibrant and symmetrical, showing strong apical development. Stem thickness is improving, and overall plant posture feels balanced and alert. Every day is a lesson – and this one reminded me that outdoor growing is about adapting to both climate and life’s rhythms. The journey continues, and so does the strength of “Sators”. Day 26 – Dancing with the Wind, Waiting for the Right Time Today’s weather offered a different kind of challenge – a damp, chilly start with stronger gusts of wind rolling in from early morning. A light rainfall made an appearance too, and although not severe, I chose caution and brought the plant indoors to avoid unnecessary stress, especially with soil moisture still carefully balanced. Later in the day, conditions improved, and the CBD Auto 20:1 is back outdoors, soaking up the afternoon light once again. Growth update: The structure is becoming more defined, with symmetrical leaf spacing and dense apical growth. Stem integrity continues to improve, especially as the plant sways and flexes with occasional breezes – perfect natural resistance training! Colour and texture remain consistent and healthy – no signs of stress or nutrient imbalance. Still waiting… There’s a strong desire to finally leave the plant outdoors full-time, but timing is everything in organic, outdoor growing. Ideal conditions for permanent outdoor transition would be: Night temperatures consistently above 12°C No risk of heavy rain or strong wind without shelter Stable daytime highs between 18–28°C, with gentle sun exposure in the early hours We’re close – but a few more days of caution now can secure weeks of uninterrupted growth later on. This journey is as much about patience as it is about light and water.
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Vanilla Latte from Huboldt Seed Company seems to be very stron strain! others still going very well...
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Hi all :) Thanks to all Comunity for important suggestions I had got Day 56, orange sherbert is beautifull, fast and resistent until now. Supercrop is gone perfect, bud are exploding. I’ m just thinking I should have do it on all branches, but anyway. This is how you do experience. Is going a little bit slower than Blue dream, but guys. Bud are going every where. I just count 22 beautifull branches. Is quite good for a 40x40x120 space. I’ll keep giving big bud for next two week, cause I think it last 5/6 weeks. Can’t’ wait to see that bud getting fatter. Day 58(30 of flowering) in the last 24 hours bud got really fatter, was so fast, hope is going to be like this every day. Day 60(32 of flowering), I find a way to pull higher the lamp, in less than 14 hours I noticed a change in leaves Color and resin improved a lot. I’ve got last two week of fertilising. This is the last week of big bud. I just bought aptus regulator and calmag. I ll be adding for this last two weeks. Let’s goo! Any suggestion in really welcome .
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I Should have been chopped down 5 plants instead of just one however I lost her 4 sisters because of fungal infection due to a high humidity and and a very hot day. Wish I could have been able to get a lot of jars full of this wonderful and magical organics nugs.
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@yan402
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This two were part of another diary and got moved out due to space reasons at VW8 and moved back indoors at VW20 https://growdiaries.com/diaries/218151-auto-god-s-glue-grow-journal-by-yan402 13.09.25 VW21 Both are looking good and are developing tighter nodes than when they were outside, I'm going to have to keep cutting them back every once and a while I also applied nematodes against thrips and fungus gnats. 20.09.25 VW22 some spots and some yellow leafs, I think it's a root problem, probably root bound, but both seem healthy and are getting thicker so maybe just top up with Coco coir and give a slight different nutrient schedule less Tri Part Bloom could do the trick MAYBE lol. 27.09.25 VW23 Topped up the pots with extra coco coir and trimmed the side roots a bit, both plants were root bound 📹 03.10.25 VW23 did a HST/LST session 📹 12.10.25 VW25 Done a major HST session to try and keep them in line with the Sunset Sherbet GF I have going in the same tent, rest in the video 📹 17.10.25 VW25 ffj/fpj/fish 30 → 60 ml 19.10.25 VW26 it just became a one plant diary, keeping #5, #6 gets it's own diary for testing nutrients. 20.10.25 VW26(?) Feed tweak: added 3 g Calcium Nitrate/ 30 L (≈ 15 ppm N + 10 ppm Ca) 24.10.25 VW26 did a defoliation and trimming session 📹 25.10.25 VW26 I'll be repoting tomorrow, 26.10.25 VW27 rest in the video📹 27.10.25 VW27 Epsom Salt 0 → 2.5, Calcium Nitrate 3 → 9 g 01.11.25 VW28 CalMag 60 → 30ml, TriPartBloom 20 → 30ml, Magnesium 2.5 → 3.5g 04.11.25 VW28 no more yellowing between the veins and no new spots, the changes to the schedule worked, rest in the video 📸 09.11.25 VW29 Did what I'm hoping is a last cleanup 🎥 12.11.25 VW13 Did another cleanup in the tent 🎥, also switched to the FERMAKOR PK Micro schedule, (10.11.25) added Phosphoric acid as a pH down in preparation for flowering 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 Day to day tasks & actions 🌿 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 15.11.25 VW29 – no feed no water 16.11.25 FW1– no feed no water (*RUNOFF reused for indoor house plants) 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Nutrients in 30 L #1 Veg — FERMAKOR 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Calcium Nitrate (Calcinit / Nitcal): 45 → 40 g = 1.33 g/L → 207 ppm N + 253 ppm Ca 🍶 PK Concentrate (FERMAKOR Base): 30 → 40 ml = 1.00 → 1.33 ml/L → balanced 1:1 P:K + light micros (from extract) 💧 Home-made FFJ/FPJ (Fish + Veg): 30 ml = 1.00 ml/L 🍶 Epsom Salt (MgSO₄·7H₂O): 8 g = 0.27 g/L → 26 ppm Mg + 35 ppm S 💧 Fetrilon Combi 1 (Micros): 0.5 g = 0.017 g/L → Fe 0.7 ppm • Mn 0.7 ppm • Zn 0.3 ppm • Cu 0.3 ppm • B 0.1 ppm • Mo 0.02 ppm 🍶Phosphoric Acid (pH down) + Citric Acid (chelation): as needed → First set pH with phosphoric acid, then add a little citric only if you want extra chelation 💧 Target pH: 5.8 – 6.0 (drop test yellow-green) 📦 TOTAL: 60 → 70 ml / 48.5 g inputs per 30 L = 2.00 → 2.33 ml/L + 1.62 g/L ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️ Tools & equipment ✂️ ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️ 2× MarsHydro SP3000 ⚙️ MarsHydro 150mm ACF Ventilator ✂️ Trotec dehumidifier (big unit) ⚙️ Mini no-name dehumidifier ✂️ Kebab skewers (LST – stainless) ⚙️ Wire + roast skewers (LST assist) ✂️ Scissors (HST) ⚙️ Vacuum (for spills & cleanup) ✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ 🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒 🦄Fantasy Feast ( Seeds)🦄 🌈🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒🍭🍬🌈🍒 Species: Hybrid (Regular) Genetics: The mother is Unicorn Whip by Dirty Bird Genetics. The father is Charcuterie by Cannarado Genetics. Effect: Unknown Mixed effect body and head high Flavor: Some phenos are Skunky gassy fruity, some are fruity sour citrus with a chemical touch and a touch of skunk Flowering: Estimated 8–10 weeks Resistance: Strong — Testing phase done YouTube Link: https://youtube.com/-m8h?si=A7x4Zlr2kj-_ga31
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@Hiperdobi
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Hello jetz hat 76. Tag - January 25. 11. Woche 4. Tag
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@Bronhitis
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This is first plant of 4, so total dry weight will be updated in about 2 weeks. I made a quick video about bud development, because i couldnt find it anywhere on the web.
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9-15-20 So I Have definitly in this past week have flowering. Thankfully so far no one around my area has a male plant because they are female. The root system is notably bigger as well because it took a lot of water before the pot started to drain. I did a bunch of fan leave cutting and everything seems to be going good. The photos are kinda crappy sorry maybe later in the week I'll try too take better ones.
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March 24 - 30 Pretty mellow week with final prep for leaving them unattended for 5 days. Drizzela is showing signs of a lime green discoloration in a small area to keep an eye on. Blumat is steady and dialed in. The plan will be to water over the Blumat system with recharge mixed in which will prolong calling for water from the reservoir.
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Que Pasa familia,Tenemos cambios , 12/12 empieza lo bueno(floración), empieza a oler el cuarto a un aroma especial 😉, os voy a dejar muchos vídeos para que no tengáis ninguna queja. •primer problema y único , es la temperatura. (Max30 min28 con Luz). Llevaba varios días comiéndome la cabeza , de mientras tengo medio abierto las compuertas del indoor. Todo lo demás funciona, se las ve Sanas, veremos las próximas semanas.
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Hi Sisters & Broos. It's Just a spoiler from a final movie. Enjoy it. Its the time to curate. I use jam pots of glass. I'll open 1h every day during the next 20 days. Bye
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Day 44 - The smell is divine, and the buds are looking very pretty. Beautiful fade going on in the leaves, almost like a purple/red/black. Planning to tapper down the nutrients as we are coming closer to Harvest. Crucial to keep the pH in range during flowering and being away a few days, I wasn't able to correct it until I was back. So they were drinking more water than uptaking nutrients.. leaving a high EC in the system. Corrected the issue by adding plain RO water, treated with cleanse, no nutrients. They are now on track and could do with a last defoliation, but I've been holding it off. Will get around to it over the next few days. The buds are sticky, smell great and rock hard. Dehumidifier was added to the tent to try lower the humidity to a better range. Can't wait to see the end results and product. Another 2 weeks an I think we will be good.