I've increased the feed and light now. I will repot soon . I've pulled the browned leaves from the lower stem and the new growth is slowly turning green . They'll burst into stretch mode once I repot them next week . Hope everyone's grow is going well and the sun is shining on you 🌞

Fastbuds - Mimosa (2x) 08/27 Coming into week 4 Veg, User error stunted them lightly but things seem back on track. Exhale 365 C02 bag introduced last week to setup for early flower. No signs of concern or any deficiencies. Early flowering has begun *Mid-Week Update* *08/30* Both plants have recovered nicely, and placed under trellis net. Introduced NPK Phosphate Purged Pure Blend Pro Grow *End of week recap* Flowering has begun Stopped veg nute feed Introduced Raw NPK Phosphorus and Potassium

20241118 Day 1 in BW 8 Day 84

Questa e la terza settimana e le ha subito 3 topping avendo così 8 rami apicali .....mi piace tantissimo e si è ripresa veramente bene pur essendo una autofiorente...ho scelto di usare i fertilizzanti BAC che mi sono arrivati direttamente dalla Spagna grazie al mio amico frits che ringrazio infinitamente per avermi dato fiducia per testare i suoi prodotti vincitori di numerosi premi! Da molto tempo che volevo usarli e sono rimasto veramente sorpreso , semplici e concentrati ! Ottimo anche le bottigliette molto molto resistenti...se ci sono delle bocce deformate e per via del prodotto pregato all interno 💪🏼....questa varietà di fast buds penso che sarà una delle mie preferite! Ho questo senso senso...al momento lascio stare tutto come sta e la lascierò rimprendersi per bene! E la farò entrare in fioritura così! Ringrazio anche Enzo e tutto lo staff di FAST BUDS per questa splendida genetica che mi hanno dato sotto stretto consiglio !!!! È una roccia! Staremo a vedere le prossime settimane! Nel frattempo sono felicissimo di tutto grazie anche a tutto il pubblico di growdiaries che mi dà la carica di continuare a fare tutto questo! Grazie mille a tutti ragazzi!!!!

02/11/25 - Watered 2.5L each Ph6.8 04/11/25 - Watered 2.5L each Ph6.8. Few weeks left now and shes smelling dank 07/11/25 - Watered 2.5L each Ph 6.9 💪

Hi all👨‍🌾👋 Welcome to my another week update Hope everyone keeping well 🧑‍🌾 Week 4 Feb 23 - Feb 29 Very good week. Girls are growing nicely. Finally a bit of work around my babies. On Feb 24 applied LST, girls responded perfectly. Leaves tucking on daily basis. 2 watering with 1L each on Feb 24th (half nutrients dose) and second one on Feb 28 alongside with 2 foliar feedings(100ml water and fish mix). So far this grow is just a pure joy. Both girls are strong and healthy. Wishing you all a wonderful week✨🍀 Much appreciate all your likes, follows and comments. 🙏💚❤️💜 Peace and love brothers and sisters 👨‍🌾✌️💚 Links https://2fast4buds.com/seeds/TROPICANA-COOKIES-AUTO https://www.biobizz.com/ https://fishheadfarms.com/

Feed is based in 15 liters of water per time and they all took 17 litres each apart from lil was 5 litres Good morning you'll lovely canna fam hope alls well and you all.had great fireworks 🎆 weekend get this 1st year we dnt buy and wen we do we do 😉😏🤭 and we alsywas see toms and say should jus sat out side and watched so didnt but theus years and no fk### done any well minimal at least 🤦🤣. Anyway day 40 from seed and week 4 in dwc and here is the jungle now I thought I was in week 6 week 5 veg but wasn't but for 2 weeks I been doing selective defoliateation and tbey been coming vack crazy for autos thers strong

For LIQUIDS & NUTES ******GREEN BUZZ NUTRIENTS***** organic. Also i’m using their LIVING SOIL CULTURE in powder form! MARSHYDRO ⛺️ has large openings on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 ☀️ MARSHYDRO FC 3000 LED 300W 💨MARSHYDRO 6” in-line EXTRACTOR with speed-variation knob, comes complete with ducting and carbon filter.

*Pre-flowers have micro trichomes upon formation, LOL. Based on my early observation, I predict that these will be frosty frosty on the trichomes. Added 20lbs of black lava rock as mulch, raising soil temp around 1 and a half degrees to 72.8F. Some nice little bud formations are creeping up already. Nice little foliar spray of some aminos to the underside of the leaf. Hard to guage or know how much the aminos help, but after reading how energy intensive it is for the plant to make them from scratch its something I feel I need to do as a habit. An EC (Electrical Conductivity) meter, one that's made for the soil, it's so useful, as it indirectly indicates soil moisture as well as salt mineral nutrient levels. Just pop your metre stick in the soil and if ec is low, then it's time to water. Once there is water to assist in the conduction of electricity, the EC" will kick back up. 0.3-1.8, if it stays low, then you know it's time to add more mineral salt ferts! While Electrical Conductivity primarily indicates the overall salt content in soil, pH provides information about the relative proportion of cations (positively charged ions) in the soil's salt capacity. High EC signifies a higher salt concentration, while pH reflects the balance of cations like calcium, magnesium, potassium, ammoniacal nitrogen, sodium, and hydrogen. Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata Sugars, classified as carbohydrates, are composed of the elements carbon (C), hydrogen (H), and oxygen (O). They are characterized by the general formula (CH2O)n, where 'n' represents the number of carbon atoms. The most basic units of sugars, called monosaccharides, have this ratio of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. For example, glucose and fructose, both monosaccharides, have the formula C6H12O6. The reality of your typical plant. After harvest, with all water remove,d you are left with. (Ballpark) Mother-nutrients: Carbon 47%, Oxygen 43%, Hydrogen 4%. Macro-nutrients: Nitrogen 3%, Phosphorus1%, Potassium1%, Calcium1%, Magnesium0.5%, Sulfur0.5%. Micro-nutrients: All the rest combined 1% Nothing good can happen in a soil that can't breathe. The aerobic zone in soil is crucial. Microorganisms can break down sugars into their constituent atoms, though they don't typically do so completely to the individual elemental level (carbon, hydrogen, oxygen) in one step. Microorganisms utilize sugars through metabolic pathways like glycolysis and fermentation, converting them into simpler molecules like pyruvate and then potentially to other compounds like lactic acid, ethanol, or carbon dioxide, releasing energy in the process. Glycolysis: This is a central pathway where a glucose molecule (a common sugar) is broken down into two molecules of pyruvate. This process generates some ATP (energy) for the cell. Fermentation: If oxygen is limited, some microorganisms can ferment pyruvate, producing various end products like lactic acid (in lactic acid fermentation), ethanol and carbon dioxide (in alcoholic fermentation), or other organic acids. Further Breakdown: The products of glycolysis and fermentation can be further broken down through other metabolic pathways, potentially leading to the release of carbon dioxide and water, and the extraction of more energy. Not Always to Atoms: While some microorganisms can completely oxidize sugars to carbon dioxide and water, releasing all their energy, others may stop at intermediate stages, producing various organic compounds. Role of Enzymes: Microorganisms use specific enzymes to catalyze each step in these breakdown pathways. In summary, while microorganisms don't typically reduce sugars to individual atoms in one go, they break them down into simpler molecules, releasing energy and potentially forming new compounds as part of their metabolism. In conditions of high CO2 concentration, the pH of a solution or system will decrease, becoming more acidic. Conversely, low CO2 concentrations lead to an increase in pH, making the solution more alkaline or basic. This relationship is due to the chemical reactions involving CO2 and water, which produce carbonic acid and influence the concentration of hydrogen ions, ultimately determining the pH

ultima settimana. Lavaggio radici. Ho fatto un piccolo assaggio. Asciugandola non molto bene... Ma devo dire che già ha un bellissimo effetto. Efficace funziona bene come terapia, per la mia patologia.. grandi fast bud's 💪💪💪

The one in the middle still did not recover. The one in the right top corner is still happy and enjoying life. Today, a trailers net has been added to level canopies.

I grew all of my plants the same and with 3 strains and only being allowed to have 5 plants total I have to pick the strongest growers and hope they stay strong and this time for me the gamble payed off nicely with a good harvest. I would recommend this strain as it grows fast and did not seem to be a picky eater and took in a lot of heavy feedings... Thanks for checking out my harvest and If you have any questions I will do my best to quickly answer them..

Little bit of a delay. Wanted to get climate perfect before the flip. Upgraded ventilation and have the tent dialed in well at 74 degrees and 60% humidity during day and 70deg/ 55% at night. Started a second scrog on Day 42. Nervous about the stretch but hopefully I can maintain it (I wish T5 lights could flower...) Did extensive trimming underneath clearing pretty much anything that will never reach the ceiling of green above it. Day 45 marks last day of Veg Day 46 marks first day of flower AND. HERE. WE. GO.

! this is my current status, gonna upload my last veg weeks within the next week - got a bit busy around Spannabis - thank you for your understanding! 💚 Welcome to Bud Boutique Grow Diary - really appreciate all your love and support :) Dont forget to check out my other current grows! 🗓️ This Week: after 48 hours of complete darkness (important for seedlings to make sure all plants switch into flower same time), I finally switched my lights to the 12/12 schedule and sent my ladies into the flower. - This one Phenos super strong - more than healthy and going well - Day 3: Foliar spray with APTUS Regulator and APTUS Nutrispray to give them extra micronutrients and give them a little shell for protection. ! always use APTUS Regulator first and mix well with your water before adding any other nutrients for Feeding or Foliar! Thank you for still staying with me 💚 ___________________________________________ --- 🌱 Strain (Sponsor) --- 🏷️ Blue Cinderella 99 FF by MSNL https://www.marijuana-seeds.nl/blue-cinderella-99-fast-flowering --- 🥗 Nutrients and Feeding (sponsored by APTUS: APTUS Ambassador) --- 🍸 APTUS: full nutrient schedule extreme -- Regulator, N-Boost, P-Boost, CaMg-Boost, K-Boost, Allin1 Liquid, Startbooster, Topbooster, Enzym+ every feeding -- Fulvic-Blast, NutriSpray as Foliar each once a week 🔗 https://aptus-holland.com/ --- ♻️ Grow Control (Sponsor) --- TROLMASTER: TENT-X + LM14 Light Adapter to dim/sunrise/sunset lights + Temp & rH Sensor all remote on App 🔗 https://www.trolmaster.eu/ --- 🏭 Grow Setup --- 💡LUMATEK Zeus Pro 600 * 🏠🌿 Indoor: Homebox 120x120x200cm (4x4) * 📐🌀 PrimaKlima exhausting Fan 1180m3/h (running on 60-80%) * 🌀 Can Light Filter 800m3/h & 1x Fanbox 1x Dyson fan for Air circulation 🔗 https://lumatek-lighting.com/zeus-600w-pro-29/ 🔗 https://primaklima.com/de/shop/ventilatoren-de/ec-ventilatoren/pk160ec-tc/ 🔗 https://canfilters.com/products/filters/ All Likes and comments are highly appreciated!!! 👨‍🌾 don't forget to check out my Instagram for daily educational content: budboutiquee - Bud Boutique

Stoped LST about a week ago as it's really bushy now and canopy flat witch is good grow as been good switch to bloom as the stretching has stoped leaves still abit yellow I fear this might be due to night time temps droping to below 15 C was wondering if I could defoliate this auto as it's really bushy now don't know if I should or can any advice ? Ok I have decided to go forward with the defoliation as the RH in tent is very high and it's winter at the moment so my risk for mold and bud root is high so I feel with the defoliation it really opened up the canopy great for air circulation and lower buds are getting much need light now tryed to keep all big fan leaves that are on the out side posted pics and plant seems stressed due to it leaves droped and hanging abit but hopefully she will bounce back the canopy in the centre was a mix of leaves on leave s on leaves like no way air would ever get in there lol funny thing once I opened her up there was nice size buds under there don't know how they got light but they did some how get food from main steam I guess

Overall good week finally setup my double trellis net, I hate it because my room so small and I have to crawl all around to get anything done. Plants were looking good a few branches which are completely unnoticeable looked like they suffer from nutrient burn. Beside that we taking off. I’m expecting some significant changes in the coming weeks.

Week 8 Flower

This is my first hydro grow and first time with clones. I have a few semi successful outdoor grows under my belt but the weather (hot AF) and caterpillar apocalypse (lost a beast of a plant and the tops of most others) last year are forcing me inside. Reservoir is an hdx 27 gallon tote with 15 gallons of actual water capacity about 1/4” under net pots. Attached to 1/4 hp active aqua chiller (overkill but got a deal and am in so cal; last years consistent 100+ temps ravaged my outdoor grow and can even make indoor temp regulation difficult) with two 5” and one 4” air stones in main res and one 4” in a 5 gallon top off res (not part of the system until/if I need it) attached to two 15L/minute active aqua air pumps. I wanted to have a bit of a barrier between the ambient temps inside the tent (rest of the room is a/c controlled) and the actual reservoir so I built a base to set the tent sans bottom putting the top of the res at the floor of the tent. This also raises the reservoir off the ground and hoping it will save some back aches once scrog comes into play. This also frees up 16” of vertical space inside tent and although I intend to scrog it should help as a buffer with temps and I won’t have to worry about light distance since plants are at floor level. To keep as much unnecessary heat out of the 4x2 tent the spider farmer light ballast was removed and relocated to outside the tent which I’m glad because during testing the ballast and light are each producing 120 degrees. Half of that is outside the tent allowing the temps inside the tent to stay about around when room temp is about 78 (a/c off but weather is fluctuating) with a small fan at base level and a 6” clip on fan for higher up. Reservoir will be 66-68 at all times thanks to the chiller. For ph management I am going to be using a torus hydro perfect ph (35 gallon). I’m hoping their claims aren’t just hype because they say it removes H+ and OH- ions to allow the ph to maintain 5.8 - 6.2 ph (without any additional buffers). This small fluctuation allows all nutrients to be taken in while a stagnant ph will prevent certain nutrient uptake hence a more complete usage. These are claims among others they made, let’s see if the science is legit. Unfortunately this being my first hydro grow I have no standard to base this off, but if I don’t have to worry about my ph that’s one less worry. Nutrients will be GH flora trio and cal-mag plus hydroguard. Not sure about additional additives, want to keep it pretty basic but suggestions for this nute/strain combo would be appreciated. I was intending on growing wedding cake or venom og but cake was sold out and venom didn’t look great so I ended up coming home with two gelato clones from universal nurseries. I’ve always liked this strain but wanted the cake because I’ve read it’s highly resilient. What I was not expecting was that these would be rooted in neoprene. I’m new to hydro and aside from the research and reading throughout my grows I usually overlooked neoprene. I guess it could be better than the rock wool as it shouldn’t leach and mess with ph? They are surrounded by hydroton and will be hand watered until roots make it to water. Update day 6: I went against my better judgment and initially painted my lid for light leakage. Ended up dumping my entire reservoir two days in because it was full of paint chips (even though it was formulated for plastic it still chipped off in high volume). Used a drill pump from HD, worked well as the intake is a 1/4” pvc tube I could suck up the paint chips and the water, but DO NOT USE to transfer anything but waste water as the output contained grease from the pump! Got a new lid and will just be using panda film for light blockage. Added a small humidifier because rh was in the 30-40 range, now temps and rh are consistently 70 degrees and about 65%. Nutes are 1/4 strength except calimag due likely to stoned math... Plants don’t seem to be minding so I’m not trying to sweat it much. Slight upward drift in ppm and ec as water is taken in or evaporates and ph is slowly swinging in the range torus hydro said it would so that is a success as I have not used any buffers. They claim it is more effective when it can directly interact with a root mass so it seems promising. New growth sprouting all over but no roots have made it out of the net pots. I went with 6” hoping roots will branch laterally exposing move root mass to the air gap once developed. Started noticing slight yellowing of leaves day 4 and some drooping (due to low rh as they perked up after adding humidifier) so I went from 50ml top feed daily to 100ml, also turned light down to 15% and everyone is happy.