She's looking stunning on her 2nd week, very healthy, no issues at all, developing perfectly, let's see how she keeps developing, this is gonna be very funny! I'm gonma enjoy a lot training this ak 420 phenos from seedstockers!

2nd topped on day 20 and she is reacted well to HST, she is too busy with growing, there is no time to get stunted. I give her 1/3 of the feed schedule’s recommendation. Soon I will switch to bottom feed. DLI has been set to 30. Day 26 - today I installed the Megapot system. She has been transplanted from a 5 gal bag to a 6 gal one, it was quite a torture I must say. More stress for the plant. I had to do this for the better drainage. Was it a stupid move? We shall see.

What a Journey, I enjoyed this "Egghunt " so much Last Decemmber @Silky_smooth, wrote me, if i want to participate into a Challenge called " Egghunt" That means growing a Plant from Seed into 50g Of Soil// Medium That means as much as fit into an Eggshell. So i did not think a lot and said yes. And the " EGGHUNT" begun. I started looking for funny // sweet little Growcontainers, and I found some Fancy ones. Black Sheeps, white Sheeps, ( Eggcups) , and some Tealightholders, one like a Rabbit, and a " Bridge" i filled Soil into the Cups, and Into the Sheepcups were under 10 gram of Soil. The " cups" from the Bridge had 35 g Sooooo... challenge accepted!! In the Beginning it was hard to me not to overwater them.But they Mastered my drownings very well After 14 Days i had to manage the Feeding of the Girls. Until that time they only got Beneficals and the Nutes from the 10g Soil. But i got some help from my Growmies, how to feed them , ( not over and underfeed).....Stoney gave me the Hint for an EC of 1000-1200 And so i did it I mixed bigger amounts of Feedingsolution, and the little Cups were diving into the Feedingsolution daily. I could see they got nice color and look fresh again. The bigger they got, the more they liked to drink Then i switched after 5 Weeks from Vegetation into Floweringmode. So they were diving 2 times in the Day into the Feedingsolution. not every Day, but very often.. From there on, it became much easier to me. Because i could see what they need. And the Fun began. Buds were swelling, and Flowers were smelling. In the last 2 Weeks i topdressed with laygranules, to keep humidity into the Cups Until we reached Today.. So Today i cut them and ooked into the cups, and i got to say,,, i could snot see any sooil, only ROOTS.... Solid , totally woven Roots. Most of the Soil was flushed away from the divings. But Plants looked good until last Day CONCLUSION: I learned so much in this Challenge.I learned so much about Watering/Feeding.. and having Fun on the Little Things I feel like i have Grown, together with my little Plants. I feel very confident to do Soilless/ DWC or any other grow hahaha... I feel like i can grow everything... I hope you had the same Fun like me into that " EGGHUNT" And thank you @Silky_smooth, for asking me to paricipate Legalize that wonderful Plant!!!

July 1: tied one down using 12 gauge wire. Soil might be a bit too rich for two of these three plants with the tied down plant being the best so far.

Day 21 and the girls are really starting to take off.I did some LST on 3 of the 5 so far and will get the other 2 bent over in the next few days. Day 27 I watered with recharge tea and tied down some branches to get some more light into the center of the plants.I have increased the light intensity to 50 percent and slightly lowered the humidity this week.

Special Christmas Stress would be last weeks summary. Still trying to figure out what the hell is happening to my plants. As there are some major problems appearing on one of them and symptoms on all of them. It looked like there were too much nutes so I tried to flush them out with water. Still the problem went on. Then I started to add calmag since 2 plants went too white. Which appearently is iron defficiency. After 4 days I’m starting to add full nutes but now I’m not regulating ph but leaving it for 7.9 since my runoff water is about 5.8 and probably locking out K N and P. Will see how this will roll out. Also made a simple DIY scrog net for the tallest plant. And ordered microscope.

5 weeks since flip. Switched from house and garden to jacks321, had some salt build up so flushed medium w some drip clean, got ppms down to 950-1000 from 1600. Everything is comin along pretty well.

Girls are looking amazing and smelling amazing. Have been watering 2 - 2.5 L of water Daily. Weekly Feeding of Green Rush Beefy Bud still. Its day 45 should be a 60 day plant or so. Shes stacking nicely !

Moved this week so mostly just fed them. Switched to just water.

This week as went well, plants are starting to bulk up and get comfortable in their new pots. Next week or the week after next might be the time to transplant them into their forever home pots, then flip to flower after 3 weeks of them growing into their new space. They have been getting a bit to much N with the Gaia Green 4-4-4 mix, I keep forgetting how much it gives them and that I need to mix it with the power bloom 2-8-4 in 25-30/75-70 or 50/50 ratios. I have extra Gaia Green Soluble seaweed extract to make up the missing K in the ratio mixes. Still mixing the PH a bit lower at 6.0 with the citric and malic acid tests, plants are going well with them, tested a bit of runoff with the one smaller plant and was getting aorund 7.5, EC still sky high so wont need to feed for a while now but they are not burning and that's a good thing. they seem to be tolerating the Potassium Silicate as well, I don't like how much it alters the PH but till I get in some ground wollastonite. Sames extras as any other week with the addition of some magnesium, rest as follows, yucca extract, silicon, potassium seaweed extract, microbes, fulvic acid, Clones are doing ok, when I took the photo of them this week they looked good and then 10 min outside of their humidity dome they looked like shit and all withered. Some of them are showing signs of putting on roots with little white specs on the stalk coming through. Will have to place them in some potting medium soon and see if they take off. And if they do I will have some to give away to whoever wants them in my friend group. I also have that one smaller plant that was delayed by a week or so thats also extra. Got to find a loving home for it, my other grow buddies don't have anything started ATM and don't want to start till later in the year. :( Pepper update! some of the peppers are living the high DLI of the lights and some of them are not... the purple jigsaw ones seems to be getting a bit burnt under the lighting. They all will be taken out soon enough. I should look at transplanting them into other pots soon and they likely root bound. Can set up something in my room with an old SF1000 I got or the Sunblaster 18" 6500k lights that I used to grow with. When I touch the leaves of the goronong and them smell my finger they have a lot of hot pepper aroma coming off of them. I think these peppers are going to be quite spicy when they are all done. The Fatalii peppers are the same and I know they are spicy AF but their smell is a bit more bright and less earthy as the goronong still pungent all over. The Fatalii are also a bit smaller, could be the older seed just is not as vibrant as new seed. Should be fine once they are outside always a good producer for me. Going to make infused salt with them and give that out as gifts to my friends. Big shoutout to Medic Grow for sponsoring the lighting in my tent, They have provided me with 2x Mini Sun 2's in the 240w configuration, They use the v1 growing spectrum that is a all purpose seed to harvest spectrum so their is no hassle of switching it mid grow. If you interested in learning more about Medic Grow products please visit the web link below. https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/MedicGrowLED

Hola de nuevo familia, dejamos la última semana de playa power plant xL. Aquí si vemos cómo la carencia de Nitrógeno afectó las hojas bajeras, pero nada serio. Solución: alimentar más . Lo demás lo podéis observar en las fotos y videos. todo va bien a excepción de una pequeña carencia .

So since I had the mold and bud rot problems I had to divide my schedule of harvest and divide the product as well. - Healthy buds are ones belonging to branches where there are no signs of rot/mold. -Mid-healthy buds are untouched by disease but still belonging to a branch where there was some disease. -Last category are the salvaged ones, where I cut them from bigger buds that had disease or they were in some part affected. These 3 categories each have their own drying space and where harvested in this order to prevent spreading of spores and stuff. For the salvaged buds every time I removed a part with disease I cleaned the scissors with alcohol. I only removed the sun-leaves + penguin leaves and will be doing a dry trim for the sugar leaves later on.

Juste avant la récolte

Im still not using the PH meter, but i will use a Canna Aqua nutrients from now they ended 2019, but 5 years later i still have it, so ill use it

THIS IS A COMPLETE SETUP GROW im not sure anyone can see this, but it is to help anyone DWC. THIS IS NOT TO BE INCLUDED IN DIARY OF THE MONTH. Week 2 adding 10ml of aqua vega , 20 ml of rhizotonic , check ph and ppm , my water is 0.4 EC , I make the solution up to 1.0 EC, RHIZOTONIC makes the ph go up .

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Getting ready to chop her down!!!! Yay! No issues other than she would not stop growing!! Lol 😂