Kings Juice and CBD compassion are developing a nice odour. The Kuchi Diesel is developing a nice diesel scent with a shrubbery type branching, buds all over. The milky dreams is growing some popcorn buds full of trichomes. Jack Lemonade is nice long buds full of trichomes. The moweeto has a particular indica aspect in the leaves grows like a hemp plant and has nice bud development. Gorilla CBD is developing like a shrub, with bud sites all over.

Everything is good without any problems for now. One plant seems like the leafs are sightly burned 😰 but it did'n get worse in past few days and it grows healthy so i think it will look better next week 💪 Today is day 7 of the plants, yesterday i transplanted them into the main 15 liters pot with organic soil mix 👌 Today i also added some Voodoo Juice from AN to help the roots involve. They say it is good for organic gardens and i got it from one of my past grow. Stay Blessed with sacred plants 🙏 May start some new diary with different seeds, but same growroom soon 👋 I almost forgot, my photoperiod is 12-1 thats why my plants have only 13 hours of light every 24 hours. For me it worked perfect in the past, if you want to read more about this photoperiod https://theweedbusiness.com/12-1-method/ here is some short explanation. Less energy waste 🙌 and organic product is a different level for me 😁

👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrfication process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

Howdy it is day 63 and in 2 days it is time to harvest. Since 2 weeks i feed clear Walter only. They get 16 hours darkness before harvest. All the plants are really🔥 My favourites are still 3G and Wedding Gelato. The smell and Look is crazy. You will see i guess Also North Thunderfuck and Hulkberry is good looking. The weight of North Thunderfuck for the dice is insane. I wish everyone a nice Day and good time. Stay safe 💚

This is going very well

🙏 Big thanks to Plagron and Zamnesia for putting on the Eternity Grow Cup 2025. This kind of platform means a lot to the community. The chance to push our grows, test out new techniques, and connect with other cultivators from all over has been inspiring. Appreciate the love and effort that went into making this event happen! Hope everyone enjoyed looking over my shoulder on this grow and best of luck to all participants! REVIEW - Runtz (fem., photo.) from Zamnesia: ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬜⬜ The seeds from Zamnesia germinated rapidly, rooted strongly, went wild in veg, and produced an ample amount of high-quality medicinal flower. The diary speaks for itself on that front so this space will be more of a phenotype review. The plants were labelled A, B, and C from left to right respectively in photos. A and B were the 'clasicaly-appearing' sativa-esque leaves while C was the more 'indica-appearing' phenotype. Although A and B appear the same qualitatively, they did produce substantially different amounts of flower (despite their DLI being near max out for the entire tent footprint without supplementing CO2, so I do not think just being in the middle attributed to this). Past their different yields, A and B also have vastly different profiles. A is a classic gelato/ice cream cooler/Z terps, and my personal favorite of the plants (wish I had taken a clone of this one instead). B is the most on point for what I think of with Runtz, classic Z terps but with a slight tropical/rotten/sweetness to it. C had the misfortune of being ready to chop a little earlier than the other girls so her profile is mostly just spicey kush now. I did observe intersex flower sites but given the entire context of the diary and how the plants performed, I have to assume it was user error. No pollination observed in any of the flowers, as zero additional intersex sites occurred. The distinction between A, B and C is what I would expect from a typical F1 cannabis seed. I do not enjoy growing from seed much but these girls were manageable. Add to that the relative stability of the genetics for a Runtz recreation, and well, these are good quality beans for a great price. Not only is Zamnesia responsive and available, their confidence speaks volumes. How many vendors would have an in-house Runtz, knowing how much of a genetic-gravity-well it is in, and be confident enough to let ~200 randos grow it and show it? REVIEW - Green Sensation from Plagron: ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛⬜⬜ I enjoyed using the green sensation, the NPK values on it make it versatile in application and a power-house in flower. I can't say I noticed anything better or dramatically improved, although comparing to Heavy 16 and asking for a marked improvement is big ask in my opinion. What I was able to do was seamlessly integrate the Green Sensation into my current routine. The additive stayed homogenous, was easily introduced into solutions with no adverse impact to the water contents or pH. Most importantly, the plants enjoyed the additive and it did accomplish the main goal of being able to wane off your primary line. In this respect, by using Green Sensation I was able to save resources by lowering my Heavy 16 inputs across the board approximately 50% and supplementing with Plagron's Green Sensation.

Soon to feed flowering nutes after only 3 times feeding the nitrogen with some other stuff in the grow nutrients.. Soon to connect carbon filter as i disconnect it until the girls start to release strong smell.. I tuck leaves everyday and try my best to end up having even cannopy.

Another week down. As some of you will see, from the three purple kush autos one defiantly has the characteristics of a “purple kush plant” it is very small with odd shaped buds and almost purpley/black. The other two are monsters with no purple traits. I did loose a plant at the start that was also stunted, which likely would have produced another “purple budded” plant. Anyway it has been hotter than hell here, and they pretty much survived a hurricane and tornado, so I think these girls will finish out the summer just nice. I gave them a feed of some cal mag and some fox farms tiger bloom. Other than that they be chillin. Enjoy the weather! Cheers.

About to start week 8 of flush

This week she was really putting on the weight. She'll be taken down on day 71. I can't wait to see what she weighs in at. This is by far the biggest autoflower I've grown and the best producing plant. Her stem was split on day 63.

So was having problems with my misters on my old system getting clogged and slow water circulation so I made a new system that works great. Hope my next grow has no problems now I got a new system.

UPDATES: Insanely frosty and insanely stinky already. Very suprised! GENETICS: -Mephisto ~ Sour Stomper Been waiting to plant my first Mephisto seed. I had a hard time getting a hold of some, but got the Sour Stomper from Harvest Mutual eventually. WATER: -Condensed (Starting at 40ppm) -Disinfected prior to adding nutrients etc. (Using COOSPIDER UVC - 253nm & 187nm bulb) CLIMATE: - Ambient Air Temp = 29'C ~ 27'C LST ~ Leaf to air temp variance of between 1-2'C - Night Temp = 22/23'C ~ Day/Night temp differential 6-7'C - Under Canopy Temp: 27'C (Day) ~ 22'C (Night) - Relative Humidity = 50-60%RH (Avg. 55%RH) - VPD = 1.45kPa (Avg.) - Co2 ranges from 900ppm to 1500ppm (Avg. 1200ppm) AIR PRESSURE: - Avg. ambient Air Pressure (outside tent) = up to 1010 mbars (101 Kilopascals) - Avg. actual Air Pressure (inside tent) = up to 1005 mbars (100.5 Kilopascals) - Air Pressure Differential = up to 0.5 kPa range between inside & outside LIGHT: - 2 x CREE COBs - At plant canopy = PPFD 900-1000umols/s/m2 ~ Lux 35,000-45,000 ~ Daily Light Integral 55-65 NUTRIENTS: - Mostly Advanced Nutrients (For base nutrients and most additives, as only company I could find scientific data on) - Canna (For Calmag Agent and Cannazym) - Plant Success (Great White Mycorrhizae) ADDITIONAL GROW TECHNIQUES: - Mostly getting out of the plants way and letting nature take its course. - Some LST. (i.e. tying down branches and tucking large leaves away) - No HST or Defoliation. INFECTION PREVENTION & CONTROL: Infection control practices i.e -PPE, Alcohol Hand wash -Gray room outside tent, -Carbon filter -HEPA filter -Plasma Ionizer -Inline UV-C germicidal bulb - Also using an additional higher powered COOSPIDER (UVC) 253nm & 187nm bulb, to disinfect the gray room outside of the tent once a week for 30 mins. - Ozone (o3) gas that is produced using the COOSPIDER, is then directed into the tent to further control any unwanted pathogens. - Ed Rosenthal (Zero Tolerance organic pesticide), sprayed once a week as preventative measure. On hand for heavier use (Once every 3 days before lights out for 15 days) in the case of an outbreak (No outbreaks yet, due to aforementioned preventative measures)

I don't think this one is growing as fast as the first one did but still looking great. Trying Gaia Green for forst time

Purple Lemonade , Gelato 1&2, LAK 2&3 are all just about done theyll be coming down over the weekend or early next week. T26, Pineapple Express, Mexican Airlines, LAK 1, 6 Shooter Blue Dreamatic and Cream Cookies are all on the flush but will need a few more before chop. This tent reeks up the whole block it's pretty intense skunk in the driveway right now. There will be one more update I'm guessing for most of these before the harvest update. This was the most successful autoflower crop I've had in a long time I think theres some really good quality buds on some of these. I'll put the video up now and as I go thru the pics theyll be uploaded so if your interested come back tmm for the pics.

So this is my first grow ever. I planted directly in substrate and watered with nutrients directly. I water every 2-3 days. I have watered 3 times till now day 8. Are my seedlings healthy? is my grow normal? I water until the coco is completely wet, as soon as it starts to runoff i stop. Should i always let runoff water more? Thank you.

25 and 28 days from planting. A couple of days before, I started cutting off the large leaves. Today I started doing LST. Perhaps I was a little hasty with this, but we'll see. The temperature problem has been resolved. Watering is carried out every 3 days. For the entire volume of the pot.

Hi, I started my first cultivation with this fabulous Gorilla Glue Auto variety. I transplanted the sprout in subtrate I prepared by using it: 70% BioBizz Light mix 20% earthworm humus 5% coconut fiber 5% perlite 30g Nutrihemp 125g Gurumix At the time of transplanting I then added 1g of Mycor mix to the bottom of the hole. Now the seedling has 7 days of life I hope it can grow healthy and strong and give us an excellent harvest 😉

Girls had a nice stretch this week and will be heavily defoliated by the end of week three

so she got a trim and cleaned up a bit i am allowing a bit too much grow because i will clone it, this week just plain water and a couple of sun baths to save on electricity