Vamos finalizamos la quinta semana de estas Blue Spider de ZambezaSeeds. Una tiene alguna carencia las otras 2 no van mal tienen buen color y El Progreso de formación de las flores es el correcto también en las 2 sanas la otra si se nota que la carencia afecta algo al engorde a si que a ver si soluciono el problema. Por lo demás bien vamos viendo el proceso estas últimas semanas. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Las maximas de temperatura no superan los 26 grados y las mínimas no bajan 20, así que no me puedo quejar. Los niveles de humedad también son los correctos van entre 50%/65% de humedad relativa. Por supuesto el Ph lo estamos dejando alrededor de 6. Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨.

Buds are dense..let's see how she weigh after drying

Harvest was done on a lovely summer day. Since summer was approaching, half of the harvest was hung upside down with the classic 60/60 and rest is stored in a wine cooler for drying. There’s also an oscillating fan below for airflow!

Hello Growmies, I'm thrilled to update you on the plant's progress! In the last week, she has beautifully filled out the scrog. Just yesterday, I flipped her into the flowering stage. This means I'll slowly increase her feeding, although I don't plan to go too heavy on the nutrients since she seems to prefer a lighter touch. She's quite particular about her nutrients, requiring me to change the reservoir every five days. If I delay, she shows signs of distress on her leaves, but these issues resolve immediately after I refresh the reservoir. While she's stretching in the preflower stage, I'll continue to guide her growth into the empty areas of the scrog screen. Also, here's a special offer: use the code ZAMMIGD2023 at Zamnesia's online store to get a 20% discount. Thanks for dropping by, and I'll share more updates next week!

The pistils are still white Shes very fat now and i think 2 weeks before harvest, i feed less now at 400ppm and starting ripen feed when half of her pustils turned brown August 18 (mid this week) I flushed her completely and fed ripen untill runoff got in the 200ppm. Now she is ready to finish Harvest will be at august 28th

day 70 was harvest day !! really fast strain, 24h light ON really played a big role as well frosty buds and amazing strawberry smell, now lets dry it !!

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

👋🏻☘️ Started low stress training this week a long with the first proper defoliation to provide more airflow and light coverage. Continuing to bend the main stems down everyday to help even out the canopy as much as I can before adding scrog net next week. Will switch to 12/12 soon. ✌️

Semana 1 de fase de floración (sprouting day 21/04/202) 1) Radiante y magnifico el desarrollo de las cepas híbridas con ascendiente de genotipo Indica ( las tres cepas de Mr.Hide Seeds - Mr. Shiska USA / Mr. Jekyll Kush / Mr. California Pearl y la cepa híbrida con ratio 60/40 de Sativa/Indica). En comienzo de floración es muy claro que los trazos de Sativa en estas cepas híbridas, pese a que tengamos razones de genética (y sus fenotipos) marcados a un 70/30 (Ind./Sat.) ; 80/20 (Ind./Sat.) y 75/25 (Ind./Sat.) en acuerdo en este orden de Mr.Shiska USA // Mr. California Pearl // Mr. Jekyll Kush, Han revelado muchísimo de modo claro fenotipos de carácter Sativa y os explicó. En las tres cepas mencionadas resulta clarísima la naturaleza de hojas con puntas estrechas; internudos en regla cortas entre si y además la estructura arbustiva en forma general de abeto donde se diseña una cola central donde se desarrollará un cogollo central de dimensiones muy destacadas y después en áreas medianas a bajas, un conjunto de ramas secundarias donde se desarrollarán un número muy significativo de ramas donde el set de cogollos secundario se producirá sen limites mayores de estrés. Resulta pues muy claro que las tres cepas referidas sacando al porcentaje menor de fenotipo Sativa, enseñan en esta entrada a floración, la estructura característica de un "pino de navidad" y por sus esbozos resulta muy claro que tendremos la ya mencionada cola central que será de un grosor muy significativo y todos los cogollos secundarios en las áreas de base. Todos los cogollos serán muy significativos a lo tocante a un carácter muy resinoso y al los cogollos esféricos que son muy típicos de los de los fenotipos Sativa. Además la linea de terpenos  de los cogollos Sativa, acostumbran a tener un aroma muy pungente de pino; trazos dulzones y esse cierre terroso que es la imagen de marca de cepas Kush y mucho de las herencias OG. En contrapartida, la cuarta cepa por orden y por qué las tres que ya han sido mencionadas por pertenecer a un mismo banco - el Mr. Hide Seeds - en el caso lá Lockdown Kush de Sensei Seeds, siendo una muy particular genética híbrida 60/40 (Ind.//Sat.) , ha revelado una genética que destaca por la enorme anchura de su grupo de hojas primarias de base. La Lockdown Kush de Sensi es además una cepa con una característica muy definitiva, pongamos el enorme tamaño de su set de hojas primarias, la enorme anchura de las hojas; la disposición en cruce alternado de sus hojas primarias y además habrá que tener muy en cuenta el enorme cruce de un carácter increíblemente pungente de terpenos y de aromas tremendamente dulzones. La Lockdown Kush será una cepa a la cual es necesario volcar una atención extremada en el plan de defoliación, pues la anchura de hojas y el cruce de los tipos alternados de las mismas, tendrá una importancia muy destacada para que no haya áreas del grow que queden con una combinación nefasta de caracteres como sombra, calor y humedad elevada Esa área de hojas anchas cubriendo ramas secundarias - donde se dan condiciones para esbozos de cogllos- hay que estar muy al pendiente, pues con las condiciones de verano - temperatura y humedad elevada - si no se procede a un defoliado regular, puede que se den las condiciones para la expansión de patógenos de extrema gravedad. En eso, no es nunca demasiado llevar en cuenta el surgimiento de hongos como mildiu, rimam y botritis.  Además los patógenos a nivel radicular, temibles en estas fechas pasan por algunos de niveles de letalidad de grow enormes como el Fusarium ó el Pythium . No solo son patógenos que son críticos en su desarrollo sino que son muy agresivos en su expansión y además son muy rápidos en la forma con la cual eliminan a cualquier grow. Además y si no fuera lo bastante, por ejemplo en el caso del Fusarium, si después de su surgimiento no se procede a una desinfección generalizada del medio de grow y incluso de toda la casa, los esporos del Fusarium se quedan latentes y es muy fácil que pese a que tiremos macetas y medios de crecimiento, al año siguiente, los esporos vuelvan a tener condiciones para reproducción y en Fusarium vuelva a desarrollarse de modo muy rápido y agresivo. Nunca es demasiado poner los hermanos growers al dato y dar énfasis a todos que todos los años procedáis a la inoculación de mycorrhizas y sobretodo a lo que considero uno de los "escudos" de protección más efectivos en el grow canabico y que es el uso , SI Ó SI, de la Trichoderma harzanium y en todas las aplicaciones posibles - sea a nivel foliar; a nivel radicular, a nivel de las semillas y en combinaciones simbióticas con micorrizas; con bacterias de grow y con otros agentes. Ha sido en los últimos años muy importante la aportación de estos agentes fúngicos; bacteriológicos y otros, para que el control de plagas sea efectivo sin necesidad de cargar el grow sea con óleo de neem; de los insecticidas de la "vieja escuela" como las Cipemetrinas; ó algunos agentes que en mi opinión siendo muy efectivos en lo que se desea crean desequilíbrios muy profundos en lo que sea considerado los biomas como la bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis. Este agente de control de mariposas, pupas y orugas es la "solución final" a las mariposas, sus huevos, sus estágios de pupas y orugas, eliminando estos a una razón de casi 100%, pero para mi todo es muy sencillo, "la naturaleza le tiene ódio Al vacío" y que una bacteria te produzca extinción masiva de estos insectos, algo se altera en el bioma que causará a la postre, problemas en ciclos de vida de otras especies vegetales, animales, saprofitas ó otras y siempre le digo a los amigos que les apasiona la naturaleza y en concreto lo relativo a los grows canabicos. Eliminar las mariposas, orugas y pupas, tendrá un impacto biológico que no es posible cuantificar...o sea...es justo para que nuestros grows estén protegidos de plagas que se haga uso de algunos agentes que permitan controlar el desarrollo y la relación biológica inter-especies. O seu, no necesitamos seguramente que nuestro grow este prejudicado por una plaga que lo coloque en riesgo, pero para la naturaleza como un "todo", no es en mi opinión válido, que se use un agente como el Bacillus thuringiensis, que elimina 100% de las mariposas y sus estadios, de huevos a pupas y de ahí a orugas y de ahí a mariposas. En Biología, hay siempre que llevar en cuenta que las mariposas/orugas tienen una función y que si sacamos de un "exterminador total" como el Bacillus thuringiensis, estaremos creando un "inbalance" a nivel de bioma y con ello, tendremos quizás en poco tiempo, desequilíbrios en la cadena alimentar; en las bacterias, nematodos y otros seres vivientes, que necesitan de las mariposas/orugas para su ciclo y que en la naturaleza si como "humanos" y a "nuestra utilidad*, usamos una bacteria para eliminar las orugas/mariposas que nos comen las hojas del grow...la naturaleza y su plan es perfecto... Por algún motivo, hay necesidad de que puedan haber orugas y mariposas, que coman hojas de la Cannabis spp. (sin con ello haber un descontrol y una amenaza a nuestra intención). Por ejemplo, las mariposas tienen funciones de polinización y la acción de las orugas, tiene desde hace milenios, función de estimulación por estrés, lo que ha llevado a perfeccionar terpenos y incluso la estructura de producción de moléculas como el THC ∆-9. O sea que el estrés que las mariposas y orugas inducen, con su ciclo de alimentación, por ejemplo en el ciclo de grow de cannabis, es de importancia trancendiente a la evolución de la cannabis. Imaginemos pues que desde el día 1 de la Cannabis spp., se hubiera empezado a cargar el suelos y hojas de la cannabis con el Bacillus thuringiensis, para que las orugas y mariposas no comiesen la Cannabis...como tendríamos mariposas que hiciesen polinización? Como podria  la cannabis por el estrés, apurar sus canabinóides y sus terpenos? Por eso y como os digo, para mí, las "soluciones finales" como el Bacillus thuringiensis, son un campo muy peligroso y es por antonomasia, contrariar la naturaleza en su perfección. Si la idea es tener un grow "perfecto", el "perfecto" es en mi opinión, especies que se interrelacionan, que "tiran" unas de otras y donde el principio de simbiosis se asegure...la cannabis necesita de orugas que coman de si, pues las orugas ganan con esa relación biológica en alimento; en desarrollo de mariposas que harán la polinización de la cannabis proporcionando variabilidad genética y la alimentación de las orugas y mariposas conllevará a la respuesta química de la planta, apurando canabinóides, aumento de tasas de estos y creando desarrollo de terpenos que serán fundamentales para efectos de "entourage" que mejorarán el producto final. 2) En entrada de floración hay que destacar la buenísima pegada de crecimiento a cada semana. Este paso de vegetativo a floración con el cambio a 12/12 en el ciclo lumínico de encendido a oscuro, ha sido programado tomando en cuenta que el 24 de abril (día del cambio de ciclo lumínico) ha sido coincidente con luna nueva (ciclo lunar donde el estrés es menor y donde los cambios sufren un impacto menor). Ha sido muy importante también estar "al dato" con el agua en el sistema, pues en macetas de 9 litros, si se hace fácil aportar exceso de agua, las características de los airpots también tienen una tendencia de un secado de sustrato más rápido y con ello hay que tener presente que los riegos tendrán que hacerse según necesidad. En esta semana, como medida de rectificación creí necesario de hacer entre riegos, aspersiones foliares sacando a uso elementos que en este comienzo de floración son indispensables. Pese a que el Boost de Hesi no sea un orgánico, en regla cuando usado en simultáneo como aspersión foliar con el Big One de Top Crop; el C4 de Mills; el Ultra MG de Gold Label y además el Organic Bloom de B.A.C. . Así que disfrutad, hermanos y la próxima semana y entrada, que sea claro para vosotros el estupendo trabajo que está en desarrollo y muy claro tengo que estamos en la antepara de una temporada magnífica. 420 Forever y que el verde sea sempre nuestro corazón. Abrazo, Tom

I also have runtz muffin, Critical +, and green poison seedlings in here.(for now) these will eventually be outdoor in coco. Thats a different diary to do. Lol but for now this is my indoor set up. Shout out @420fastbuds & @Tastebudz @barneysfarm

Ready to rock 🚀🚀🚀🚀🌵Breath x 🍒 Cherry Punch 🥊

~ GG4 SHERBET FAST FLOWER by FastBuds ~ Well fam, here we go again with another epic strain from FastBuds Fast Flowering stable. After having such tremendous success growing their Gorilla Cookies Fast Flower outdoors last year, I've decided to run another of their fast flowering strains outdoors this year... GG4 Sherbet Fast Flower! The best description of this awesome cultivar comes directly from my friends at FastBuds which is as follows: "Bred from extremely potent and flavorful Gorilla Glue and Orange Sherbet genetics, GG4 Sherbet FF (Fast-Flowering) takes all the best traits to the next level, offering a high-yielding strain that can produce up to 600 g/m2 in a 7-week flowering time. This super resilient Indica-leaning hybrid thrives indoors and outdoors, and in all types of climates while producing mouth-watering sweet, fruity, spicy and earthy terps that translate into a delicious sugary hazelnut aroma. Expect an extremely relaxing and overall happy effect that’ll leave you with a huge smile from ear to ear. It’s the perfect strain for growers of all levels of experience seeking low-maintenance yet highly productive photoperiod varieties that deliver quality and quantity without extra effort. GG4 Sherbet FF grows chunky buds with long dark orange hairs and spade-shaped calyxes that get encrusted with trichomes by harvest time, giving them a gorgeous silvery-white appearance. This medium-sized photoperiod can reach up to 200 cm in height and yields up to 650 g/m2 while developing that typical hybrid structure. GG4 Sherbet FF grows with a stocky, bushy appearance, developing one sturdy main cola and fat side branches that support huge yields without much effort. This super-fast variety produces distinctive light-green buds with a high bud-to-leaf ratio, making your trimming sessions a breeze. It’s a top-notch resin producer that doesn’t need much maintenance and will thrive in almost every climate, rewarding growers of all levels with extremely flavorful resin that makes for outstanding hash end extracts." ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ The Setup: This is going to be an outdoor grow, but I have started the GG4 Sherbet Fast Flower indoors as our weather is still too cold to put her outside (nighttime temp's dipping regularly into the 30's℉). The plan is simple... let her grow inside under a 19/5 light schedule until the nighttime temperatures stay above the mid 40's℉, at which point she'll be moved outside and transplanted into the soil which I have already setup and inoculated with beneficial microbes, and then let the fun begin!🤪💚 ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 9/12- Here we GO fam! The time is drawing near for the FastBuds GG4 Sherbet Fast Flower to finally be harvested and I won't lie, I am thankful that she's just about finished as our weather has turned cool and wet, which is a HUGE no bueno for big dense cannabis flowers which are prone to Boytris(bud rot). 9/14- Today I took some final pic's and a video of the FastBuds GG4 Sherbet Fast Flower in preperation of the harvest. I also defoliated her, removing a ton of shade leaves which will hopefully help with air circulation around her flowers. 9/15- Chop Day for the GG4 Sherbet Fast Flower from FastBuds! I got up just before sunrise today and took her down. After cutting off sections of the plant, I then transferred them inside to a climate controlled room. Once hung, I set the RH in the room to 50% for the first 24-36 hours to knock down the enormous moisture content present when the plants are freshly hung. I also have the temperature set to 65℉ and have two fans circulating the air in the room without blowing directly onto the hanging plants (very important). The GG4 will hang for 10-12 days, at which point I'll be locked in 'Trim Jail' for a few days at least! Thank you so very much for following along this journey with me and for all the positivity and love that has been expressed!😎🙏💚💚💚 See you at the Harvest Report! Thank you for checking out my diary, your positive comments and support make it all worthwhile! 💚Growers Love!💚😎🙏

Cut all the tops I have to say no matter what in house has came throw for me I’m so thankful for this year more pictures coming soon

Planties are getting bushier :3 This week we focused on LST, providing as much light so smaller tops could reach the size of bigger ones. We raised the light cause NL started showing signs it didnt like being close to the light, but also saw some other issues, tips of canna leafs started to yellow, about a week and a half ago we fed them some nutrience, home made organic and also a mix. So now im not really sure from what caused the yellowing tips. Nutriante deficiancy? Nutrient burn? Light? Taking now a closer look, to see upcoming signs that would make this situation clearer. Apart from yellowing leafs, the smell(rrrlll goood) becomes more noticable, its nice coming to the tent, feels like youre high from growing nature :=) We topped speedy chille and took of yellowing leafs, she really liked it and is now growing 4 tops

First time with Owl Night and I'm really happy ! The next run will be soon 🌳🌳🌳✨✨✨

Day 18 - FIM cut made. Day 20 - Repotted to her 38 litre airpot. I planted her quite deep to help with stability so she has 'shrunk' 0.5cm this week 😂

She looks so gorgeous, almost all of these turned purple Nugs looking beautiful Super scared of Budrot, will spray her few days with baking soda-milk-water mix. This will be the last week of feeding her , checked her on the magnifier she is milky like 90% Thinking to defoliate her to prevent, for more air circulation Start adding overdrive this week