Food mix: 1L distilled water + 120g NKP food

The Blackberry Moonrocks are looking great. They're definitely the healthiest plants in the whole tent. I might have gotten a little carried away with the nutrients, so the leaves are a bit funky right now, but they're still going strong. I'm excited to see how they do in the next few weeks. The new year is off to a frosty start! We've had snow falling for what feels like forever. My kids are loving it, of course. They're building forts, having snowball fights, and turning everything into a winter wonderland. It's been a lot of fun to watch them enjoy it. All this snow is really making me think about how quickly time flies. It feels like just yesterday we were celebrating the holidays, and now here we are knee-deep in winter. I'm looking forward to warmer weather, but for now, I'm enjoying the quiet beauty of fresh snow.

Last week of veg for these ladies. Did some major defoliation. They are so close to being full and tall enough to switch to flowering.

Been slacking at updating this. Putting in a lot of OT at work and the diary has fallen to the wayside for a bit. Had to put the trellis netting up. The two Lemon Haze plants are getting chunky and falling over under their own weight. Looks like they only have a couple weeks left where as the two Grandaddy Purp on the left side look more like they have 3 to 4 more to go. Hard to tell as they don't seem to be swelling up as much as the other two. Getting so close I can SMELLLLL IT!!

Day 35 is here. We are a week into flower and most the plants are just starting to hit that flowering stretch. I have been bending them down a little every couple days, but I need to focus on cleaning up some of the bottom branches so we can keep good air flow through the plants. Will work on that through this next week. I haven't done a water change, just been topping off the reservoir with fresh nutrients as they drink it up. Feeding half and half maxigro and maxibloom. Will cut out the maxigro in a couple weeks when I notice their stretch slowing down. I had a plant overflow this week because the drain line is getting full of roots. I noticed a couple roots have made their way into the reservoir already. I set a pump timer to 1 minute on and 20 minutes off so they can drain properly. I would like to make it through the grow without having to mess with the drains, but we will see what happens. I will make some modifications if needed. Other than that everything is running smooth and I hope we have some little pistils to show by next week. Thanks for stopping by ✌️

Finally coming to an end this week, didn’t get to properly flush the nutrients out to see the leaves begin to fade but next grow i will pay more attention to this. Definitely needed to hold the plant up using chopsticks but hey it worked

Its really perking up in flower, and the blueberry smells are ready coming out!

KICKASS AUTO by KANNABIA Week #8 May 21st-28th Week # Flower This week she continues to fill in her where it counts her bud sites are getting thick and her trichomes are like sugar dust and she getting a nice little arouma about her. She's got evenly spaced bud sites that run down the stem she's in a AC INFINTY 3 gallon cloth pot feeding her nuts twice a week until run off then water every other day. Thank you for stopping by!! Stay Growing!! Kannabia.com Kickass Auto

14/12/20 inicio de semana, se le aplico dos cucharadas de leonardita y dos mas de harina de cangrejo riegos solo con agua, se metio al invernadero una led bestva 600w elite tanbien se rego con un poco de algantic potasium se le relleno con 4cm de sustrato. 15/12/20 55cm 18/12/20 alcanzo 58cm de altura unos brazos satelitales muy buen tamaño 20/12/20 cierre de semana

removed a few leaves to give each a little more space. the soil is a mixture of already "used and fresh earth", as well as a little perlite and lava rock and plenty of smelly pre-mix from biobizz.lol let's see how four of them get along in one pot.lol * tools for irrigation.lol: the sliced detergent bottle is demanding as a tool for hand watering. costly and time-consuming, but since you can adjust the water flow speed, every centimeter of soil really gets damp.lol and you can use it on all sizes of pots. (the plant in the last picture is another plant, fastBuds gorilla cookies, meanwhile, in my opinion my favorit.lol )

Three are coming along 1 is stunted will see if it recovers. Still to early to sex, maybe another week or two. I got my fingers crossed I will get at least one female. This is there 1st liquid feeding this week. the three are pretty dark green might have too much N in the coco amendments. I started out low with the feeding as I feel there are still dry amendments in the coco I do not want to over feed. I went 1/2 strength and added a little CAL MAG with the Enzymes and Mammoth P and the Fulife and Cargo Boost. I will keep a close eye in any signs of nuite burn this week. I hope to see some sex indicators in the next week or 2. stay safe all.

Unos días antes de mandar a flora hiciamos las últimas podas de bajos y apicales la dejamos recuperarse unos días y hicimos el último trasplante a 10 litros , con eso ya listo empezamos con los nutrientes de preflora , hicimos unos riegos foliares 15 días antes de mandar a flora , el mismo día q mandamos a flora y lo tenemos que hacer 15 días después de mandar a flora , con esto ya estamos más que bien para las primeras semanas de floración después de la segunda semana vamos a empezar a fertilizar con guano de murciélago y unas cucharaditas de melaza , después ya con el engorde , pero para eso faltan unas semanas , ahora vamos a ir viendo como le va en sus primeras semanas de floración

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

Only got 4 more days to harvest 👍🏻

In Woche 4 der Blüte gebe ich den Ladys die zweite Ladung Greenhouse Feeding BioBloom je 2.5g/L vom Topf. Dazu gebe ich per Gießwasser ab jetzt alle 2 Wochen 1g/L den BioEnhancer von Greenhouse Feeding und bei jedem Gießgang den Greenhouse Feeding Booster 0.2g/L. Die Ladys wurden auch großzügig entlaubt. jetzt Konzentrieren sie sich auf die Produktion der Blüten.

...and here I am, at the end of this fantastic journey, with so much knowledge I have got in this process, including regarding myself! Fantastic!! I harvested one week early because I got some issues with mold! Thank you people for helping me when I got into some trouble hahaha Love you all! :-) Peace and freedom!

Still no definite preflower. Getting impatient.