TEMPERATURE ISSUES MADE ME FEEL UNCONFORTABLE BUT THE PLANTS ARE RUNNING SUPER GOOD. LETS SEE IF THEY CAN GET FATTER WITH THOOSE HIGH TEMPERATURES. CHECKING THE CRYTALS EVERY DAY, NOT READY YET. PROBABLE 1-2 WEEKS FOR THE FLUSH AND 1 MORE FOR HARVEST. MUCH LOVE GROWMIES. FEEL FREE TO COMMENT YOUR PAST EXPERIENCES OR YOUR TIPS. GROWSHOPS ARE CLOSED AND I LOVE HEARING TO THE GOOD BREADERS, ALWAYS LEARNING. 12/05/2020---> HE REGADO CON TOP BLOOM Y TOP CANDY A LA GORILA LST Y AL LEMON HAZE PORQUE ESTABAN DEMASIADO AMARILLOS Y AUN QUIERO AGUANTARLAS 1-2 SEMANAS MAS

The grow was a complete success I am so happy and have some great quality product at the end of it. First things first the important bits the weights of each plant and what was done differently on each during the grow, plant colours can be determined by looking at the colour of the pipecleaner hooked over side throughout the grow. Pink - Wet = 548g | Dry = 106g Pink didn't have any defoliation or trimming throughout the grow, she was the untouched girl, looked the biggest at the begining but the other girls overtook in flowering in a big big way! She looked like she got root rot close to the end of the grow potentially, her leaves turned on me very quickly and I harvested her early, she wasn't quite as dry as I liked and during drying more mould occurred on some of the buds, I was left with a good 85g after being very fussy and wipping lots of buds out to protect the rest of the harvest. You can tell she was harvested a little early as doesn't taste as good or smell as good as the rest. Her buds in the jar are more compact as been curing for a week on the rest. Orange - Wet = 416g | Dry = 120g A little bit trimming/defoliation. Stripped of fan leaves on last week for flush. Blue - Wet = 466g | Dry = 121g She was smaller at the start, and I flushed too early as she had a late growth spurt and became massive, think she also developed a late root rot but caught it before any harm was caused to the buds but the leaves are a bit yellow as you can see from the final trimmed product! Also potentially so tall she may of been a bit close to the light and got a little hot. Yellow - Wet = 508g | Dry = 132g The abosolute star of the grow! We grew her originally as a backup in a spare container that is awful for growing, we ended up needing her and transplanted her in the early weeks when we broke one of the other girls. She had a good trim/defoliation throughout grow to ensure she was getting good light coverage. So from this grow I have learnt alot and will be taking the information to try and create a perfect grow next time! My plans are to use perlite to help prevent root rot in the later stages and increase air flow through the soil mix. I will also use a 9cm pot to start the grils off and transplant when they have grown out of them. I will place the scrog net in the tent early on so can use it to train the girls, probably around week 2/3. And I will do a light trim late veg and last couple weeks of flower will get a heavy defoliation. Keeps your eyes open for my pineapple express growing coming soon! For the complete feed schedule you can download the PDF here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hgKhzGtTXeCi22WJqQ_QQcUvilWRjq86

UPDATE: Day 1 of week 14- Thursday 19th Nov!!!! Woop woop! We’re getting close, my magnifying lense arrived and I’ve got my first real good look at the trichomes.. All looking fairly cloudy with about 10-15% ambers coming through. So as we’re super close now I’ve now started flushing. Not doing a run off as have been using Biobizz soil & Nutes. First flush is done and girls are looking happy. One lady seems to have really heavy colas as she’s struggling to stand up straight. So I’ve staked her to keep her more upright. Think she may bring the best yield of all four girls as it stands so far. Final couple of weeks now, I can’t believe I’ve made it this far and really can’t wait to try my first home grown bud🍃 UPDATE: Day 2 of week 14 - Friday 20th Nov: Had to water them early as the girls were very dry after their first flush.. I on average water them every 48 hrs, but they were ready after 36. Already noticing some slight discolouration on the leaves 🍁... Glad I didn’t jump the gun and chop them this week after seeing some amber trichomes.. A bit more LST as they had stretched a little. I’m short on lamp to plant distance but noticed what looked like a little leaf burn on one of the tallest nugs. So did what I could to bring the height of them down just a little 👌 UPDATE: Day 4 of week 14 - Sun 22nd Nov: As soon as the lights went on today, more water seemed required at around 36hrs since the last flush. The girls seem to be loving it! Buds do seem to be fattening up a little more each day and I think one girl is slight more ahead than the others as she has mostly orange pistils compared to the other three.. Still need to see more amber trichomes on all four ladies before they’re ready! UPDATE: Day 5 of week 14 - Monday 23rd Nov: Small amount of LST to keep the girls as even as poss.. Defo seeing some discolouration in the fan leaves now.. All but one of the four girls have nearly completely orange pistils now which are folding back in to the buds. But Trichomes need to be a little more amber before they’re ready.. The fourth lady however is slightly behind with less orange pistils, some white ones still to turn orange and trichomes are still a mix of milky and clear on the lower buds. When I topped this one it didn’t work as well as the others so she has one really massive cola and all the others are much smaller in comparison to the other three plants.. I think we’ve got a week to 10 days left roughly till harvest. UPDATE: Day 6 of week 14 - Tuesday 24th Nov: Another water flush again today.. All seems well, lower small buds still need a few more amber trichomes I think.. But gonna post a question on here to make sure.. Don’t wanna get this wrong. Sooooooo close now and I’ll be seeing 🤩🤩🤩

Hey everyone :-). The last plants were also placed in the bloom chamber kammer. Everyone has made great progress this week 🙏🏻. There is not much to say about this week, I think videos and pictures say more like words 🙈😎. I wish you all a good start into the week :-) Stay healthy and let it grow 🙏🏻👍

This week I will maintain the same techniques from previous week. Noticed that main leafs got bigger during the weekend, both plant look healthy and happy and are now looking wider. Also to note that I have been rotating the vases so they catch light in different positions/sides. It does not replace the real sun movement however it will stimulate the growth in different parts of the plant. Hopefull by the end of this week we will have a new set of baby leafs.

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Week 6 Started today transplanted them sat it’s Thursday now this Saturday March 9th is a week since looks like they are taking tk the new home okay so far hope this keeps up March 8th did a second topping today on both but on every top just two on each plant and I’m done topping March 9th is one week since transplant next Thursday I thinking I will flip then or that Saturday just want them to show stronger signs of growth by then March 9th some deflation everything still looking okay

P1 top is 14 in from light majority of bud sights are 17” P2 is the tallest and it is in the net which is 15” from the light P3 top is 13” from the light and majority of bud sights are 17” P4 top is 16” from light and majority of bud sites are 20” from light P5 top is 17” from the light majority of bud sites are 19” from light

When I first heard about this variety, I immediately wanted to grow it! and now that moment has come!!!!!!!!!!!! It will be great grow!

Currently checking daily and tying away branches/leaves to give the buds more light and watering when the soil is dry. Currently my plants drink exactly 1,5L a day. I have the feeling that the right plant is lacking a bit of potassium. I'll leave everything as it is for now because the left plant (fresh new soil) is growing well. Since the right plant is quite bushy anyway, I'll defoliate it again later and remove any lower shoots. I started adding the Bio PK booster towards the middle of the first week of flowering, 2ml per liter of water; as the pH value drops too much, I correct it upwards with Biobizz pH up - from pH 5.5 to 6.5 for 3L, I add a total of 39 drops. My water is mixed as follows: 3L osmosis water, plus 6ml CalMag, 6ml BioPK 5-8 and 39 drops of pH + BioBizz.

hey hey growmies. Week 1 went well, not much to add here other than my first rodeo with Kratky seems to be turning out ok, I am a bit worried with how fast these roots grow. I might have to move to a bigger container sooner than I hope. Lower leaves are pretty much goners from transplant shock, its ok, she'll recover and get used to her new grow environment. LST will probably start next week, I'm considering not topping this Runtz lady, I will have the space for her to grow tall as the Flower tent will be available in a couple weeks at most. And I look forward to taming this strain, I have seen some crazy phenos here on GD Thanks for checking out my diary. Would you like to grow Runtz by Zamnesia yourself? Be sure to use the Growdiaries discount code "GROWITGD" on their website for 10% off. 😉 Stay safe and keep growing.

Looking good lowering temps to keep my terps from burning off remember once you smell it their gone forever lol! I did run through a few little problems you can see rip burn and some stretching one was a experiment and one was my own fault. As of right know tho I’m very happy for this harvest!

Empezó el 2026 vamos por esas flores! ☀️🌳🌱🍊🍫

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Almost done ! !! Thanks for looking.

Es ist sehr regnerisch und stürmisch gewesen sie hatte es aber ganz gut überstanden. Ich mache mir langsam wegen den Pünktchen sorgen

Hi growers. It's end of week 5 of flowering. So far, all girls looks quite well, only OG is showing that he is missing some zink.. Hope to heal her... Red mandarine is showing her true color as well.. Live that purple!! Stay stoned and keep growing! One love!

Okay so after 48 hours instead of 24 of darkness. These ladies were begging to be chopped with how much more intense the smell got. Cheesy , sweet , skunky , and a floral incense kind of scent. Made lots of finger hash just getting them off the plants , already smoked. I’m about 75% done with chopping all the major tops. This time I decided to cut off the branches and dry on an eight tier 24” diameter rack off Amazon. All 8 tiers are full with gorgeous top colas. I’m drooling. Can’t believe just how much bud this is turning out to be. They are dense , and oozing. Not going to get a wet weight because this is just too much. But holding the rack it’s like 20 lbs or more. My scales don’t go that high. Lol. Gotta say it, I think my buds look 10 times better than the advertisement photos g13 lab’s mozzarella. My 2 cents and honest opinion. Please do give me your opinions. I know I didn’t show the full grow because life gets busy. My next grow I want to control the humidity and heat levels a bit better. Or just humidity and run co2 to withstand higher temps. I have every angle of the grow under my tips now. It feels amazing to have this kind of harvest after the dedication these plants received. I’m Convinced…. rdwc with a water chiller , is by far the best way to do hydro. When it’s dry I’ll add the final weights. My nutrient reg is this. Jacks 321 , botanic are cal mag plus, hydroguard,PK booster is flower fuel(purple can off Amazon) and unsulfured molasses. If you don’t have an ability to keep water at 70 degrees then only use jacks hydroguard and cal mag. You’ll still do well but that molasses , that sauce is the boss.