Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Added the first screen into the tent. Decided to kick Big Mumma out because she just wasn't growing any taller and the other plants were really over growing her. For the new setup I used kitty litter trays and mesh to sit the plants on - each plant gets its own tray so I can track runoff EC individually and I cut little flaps in the mesh so I can wet vac the runoff. With this setup I shouldn't need to move the plants out of the tent until harvest. For the scrog I just tied some builders rope around the poles of the tent and tied the trellis netting off with training wire. I've been manipulating the growth just to try and fill out the whole screen, I also gave them a good haircut because I plan on flipping them soon, don't want them to outgrow the tent.

This week I started using Power Si Bloom because I had it for my indoor garden so why not... nothing new here but I did start feeding 2 gal water per plant every other day. Still using recharge and kelp

Hello growers day 35 with the crystal candy and the red poison the lady’s are loving life at the moment nothing bad to report just been making sure there feed and that’s it all the plants have put a bit of stretch on but it’s all good I have bud sites every where I love it 3 of the red poison have proper red colour on them 1 of them is green as normal the 4 crystal candy’s are all sweet until next week be safe and happy growing ✌️

Hello , well she started producing pistils & budlets at beginning of the week. I switched the light onto it's super lumen setting, which gives it another 60 watts so now on 660watts , stopped training through the net. Thanks for checking out my diary please leave a comment & also some likes would be great so I can progress from apprentice stage, i will also stop by & check on your grow also. Much love fellow growers👍

Ok

Divine Storm ladies moves into week 11 with a transfer to their final pots and some LST. They look healthy and should respond nicely to the transfer. Bonus video of my veg room. Thanks for stopping by 👽🌳

So grow started with lots of trouble.heat ..bugs .. temperature swings and at the end cold rainy weather.how ever I'm impressed by the bounce back.. heard lots of bad story's over this breeder and the automatics I had where in deed very disappointing. So this mighty Amstel freezeland 2.0.. Liked the growth and loved to see it working.next year I try to grow them somewhere in nature.think they are strong enough.

10 Tage getrocknet bei 19-22 grad und 50-55% rlf

Noticed some wind burn 🍃 🔥 on the plant/leaves closest to the fan. Moved it and accidentally hurt the plant again. SCROG-adjustments-woes! UGGGH! Lesson learned... Once scrogged... Tough to readjust! Be extra careful. The red hairs 🌹 are showing up with some already leaning and wilting down. Really excited for them to fruit! 🍓 I am definitely growing at least two phenotypes of TD. One that is meant to be very tall and w very thinned out long leaves -- heavily sativa. And one that is the "more common" pheno. I now understand what this whole pheno-hunting term means. NOOB GROWER THOUGHTS, WEEK 8 -- This grow isn't even done and I am already thinking of my next. I've definitely bought too many seeds. And my grow space is waaay too limited. I will expand once I move to a new place.. and already have a plan for an eternal harvest. More tents 🎪, more seeds 🌱, more everything ... It's official, folks... I'm addicted to growing! And I love it!!! 😎

The grow was super easy, rapid growth and incredible strength, no deficiencies..fed 3/4 strength General Hydroponics nutrient line. Ended up topping her two times on multiple branches, giving her a total of 11 tops. Overall medium height with an amazing manifold and thick stem. Harvested on day 62, with a 10 day flush and no darkening stage. An absolutely great strong structure being able to hold it's weight of 132 Grams⚖️️. Right up until harvest day when I went to move her she finally bent but never broke or snapped 💯. Will be in my constant rotation. Recommended completely 💯👏🍍 🔥

Good afternoon everyone! One more week is gone of the flowering. the plant looks beautiful, the buds become heavier every day. I still only use Hesi sponsored nutrients with every watering. I don't overdose on nutrients and follow the weekchart I got from Hesi. genetics is good old school from Neville's seed bank. It is also a normal seed, not femenized. The light schedule is 12/12 , feeding every day( I try to handle the cocos always wet) next week is the last flowering, after that I will clean the plant and will harvest it. Good luck, everyone

This week the plants seem to be adjusting well to the Mega Crop nutrients. Also the plants are doing well with the 19 hrs on & 5 hrs off light schedule. Today is January 31st which means it is time for another feeding. They received a 1/2 gal of feed each.

Defoliated this week. Ladies are filling back in nicely. Tons of bud sites. Very happy with this batch so far! Nutrients every watering this week. These girls will now get one watering of just ph water, then the next watering will be the last watering with nitrogen. After that, we kick the bloom phase into overdrive. They will get micro, bloom, and advanced big bud. Every watering, for the rest of their lives. Grow-5ml Micro- 5ml Bloom- 5ml Recharge once a week.. These Hubbabubbasmellascope plants are very nice plants. Again, two very different phenos within the 5 plants. Two, are Broad leafed, haleavy stalked, and beautiful. The other 3 are a bit strange. Very small leaves, very narrow leafed, and a touch smaller. Just totally different looking plants. But absolutely loaded with bud sites. Time will tell!

Man this week has been taking forever, my theory is it will only get slower relative to harvest just because my excitement. I top dressed with about 2 inches of worm castings with an eyeballed mix of 2tbps of bone meal (3-14-0, bloom fert.), 1.5-2tbps of Gaia green all purp.(4-4-4, I don’t have an actual potassium fert. Like leingbenite So I use this), 3tbps of dr earth kelp meal (1-.05-2 has many different vitamins, amino acids, carbohydrates) and 2tbps of mykos (for microbiology inoculation and nutrient uptake/upkeep). So I every time I water I have this old 2gallon water tin that I usually fill up about a quarter to half way full. Using this amount of water and the 5 gallon bucket of my soil mix makes my watering schedule once every 3 days (on average). I do use bottle nutrients but it’s mainly for the supplementing. For feeding I use 2-3ml to half a gallon for all bottle nutrients, I have never gone over, and I have never had deficiency’s that can hinder plant development. Deficiency's: PSA: Now if anyone happens to read and actually look at my plants please do look closely and maybe let me know if you see something that I have missed since I’m still very new. I noticed my plant was having a cal mag issue so that’s why I top dressed with worm castings, I also top dressed with about 3tbps of azomite (I feel using azomite it may help with all those unnoticeable deficiency’s that a new grower might miss). I’ve been noticing on some of the leaves the very tips are showing discoloring, since the color is still so vibrant mostly I can rule out nitrogen, phosphorus, Iron, manganese, and sulphuric. It’s still very early stage so I did an extremely light foliage feeding (in the dark to prevent UV damage) of 2ml of big bud, big bloom, and tiger bloom, mixed into half a liter of water, I then emptied the spray bottle and sprayed with tap water just to make sure there’s no nute burning. Today I fed the plant through water amendments with 3ml of big bud, 3ml of bud candy, 3ml of big bloom, and 2ml of tiger bloom;(my theory is hopefully the nutrient deficiency’s will go away) My soil mix is pretty basic. 40% coco, 10% perlite, 10% well composted chicken manure, 20% black gold compost, 20% worm castings. I’m not going to put the fertilizer amendment percentage to be honest I eye ball it but there’s a rough general measurements that I do.

Привет друзья. Моей растихе сегодня 164 дня 20.10 перевёл свет в режим 12/12 Начал применять LST технику на 19 дне, а 18 августа добавил ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ С 20.08 ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ С 20.08 LST технику На сегодняшний день влажность 54% 5.09.2023 заметил высокий Ph 7.9 С 48 дня Ph не ниже 5.8 На сегодняшний день Ph 6.0 Начал кормить с 60 дня Canna Terra Vega PPM 870 Всем мира и добра! Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀

Last run of this girl I made. She’s pretty good just no room to keep her

Day 27- day 1 flower Flip to 12-12 Day 28-day 2 flower Calmag -0.8ml Coco A - 1.5 Coco B- 1.5 Roots -0.2 Day 29-Day 3 flower Calmag -0.8ml Coco A - 2.5 Coco B- 2.5 Active boost -2ml Roots -0.2 Day 30- Day 4 Watered Coco A - 2.5 Coco B- 2.5 Active boost -2ml Roots -0.2 Day 31–day 5 Watered Day 32– day 6 Watered Day33- day 7 Watered Day 34-8 Watered last night so nothing today Day35–9 Watered Day 36-10 Watered Day 37-11 No feed, Day 38–12 Fed 1.5L Day 39-13 Watered Day40-14 Fed pk Day 41-15 Fed 1.7 coco a 1.7 coco b 2 ml boost 1 ml Pk Day 42-16- started adding pk Fed Day 43-17 Fed Day 44-18 Fed 600 ml just before lights out 1L lights on Day 45-19 Fed 1.6 L Day 46-20 Fed 1.5L Day 47-21 Fed 1.5L Day48-22 signs of potassium deficiency so keeping the food levels up for few more days , started with light feeding but now doing heavy feed chart . -Starting to give off a berry and gas smell . Day48-23 Fed 2L She’s thirsty today . Usually start to see runoff after 1.2 Lbur nothing Ml/L Watered 2.5 coco a 2.5 cocoa 2 sumo boost 2ml by accident instead of 1 Day 49-24 Fed 1.5L Day 50-25 Skipped feed to try lower humidity Day 51 Fed 2 L but no run off . Think she’s thirsty from no water yesterday . Will do another 500 ml to see run off if not I’ll leave it at that .

Hello my friends 👨‍🌾👩‍🌾, I'm still in gd jail, since 2 weeks, Thanks for your coms and likes, can't reply you... The Banana Purple Punch 🍌🍌🍌💜💜💜🥊🥊🥊looking good buds continue to grow up Week was good, look a bit overfert, so I've given only watering last watering, and will give only water tomorrow. 💦 I've given 2x 1.75 l/plant Water + terra flores + canna boost Water Only PH@6 Lamp @75% See you next week and have a good week end my friends 🔥👨‍🌾👩‍🌾 Thank to Mars Hydro and @marshydrococo2 for sponsoring the FC3000 ❤️❤️, as well as @Fast_Buds for sponsoring the Seeds ❤️❤️ If you want a litle discount on your Mars Hydro order, add this coupon to your cart, "Ju_Bps" Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 Mars Hydro - FC3000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light 42 Fast Buds - BANANA PURPLE PUNCH🍌🌲 https://2fast4buds.com/seeds/banana-purple-punch-auto

Week 6 Blooming beautifully. The colas are really taking shape, although still tiny but I’m happy with it so far. I added basil in the tent because I read it deters pests because of the pungent smell. Had a slight issue with the run off this week so I assume there’s a build up of salt in the soil ? I’m gonna have to read up about what to do next. What do you think by the images in video? Watered her with just alg-a-mic and ph’d down tap water to see if this helps. Apart from that she’s smelling lovely in early hours when the electrical a switch off. Sorry if my first diary has been a bit pony so far but I’ve had to play catch up. And I’m All up to date now.