Continua la seconda settimana di fioritura per questa tenda Fast Buds e direi che tutto va alla grande! Sto dando circa 600 ml di acqua ogni 3 giorni al momento, quando le foglie più basse sono cadenti e il vaso super leggero, quello è il loro momento, chissà perché si è sempre più tentati a dare più acqua del dovuto? Sempre quella paura che muoiano di sete, no! Loro muoiono affogate di solito che è peggio 😈 sempre asciugare bene il vaso prima di ogni innaffiatura! Non smetterò mai di ripeterlo, perché sono il primo che ancora rischia di sbagliare eheheh

Week 4 My girl reaches her final size. I took the opportunity to put the scrog that will be more to support the buds weight. Despite the initial deformity of the leaves, the plant has a very healthy aspect and a very balanced coloring, so I believe that this adventure will not influence the flavor of the flowers. In few weeks... HARVEST TIME 😋 Day 22 Hard defoliation on fan leaves.

This week went real great! Today is day 15 for these lil babies an they are doing so great, just loving it!! Temp an humidity been real good for me stayin around 72 degrees during day an 55 to 60 % humidity, perfect for these babies! They got a light feed Monday which only fed 1/4 to 1/2 tsp per gallon an by Friday we were at 1/2 of rapid 3 cal mag , 2 micro, 3 grow , 1 bloom with Ph of 6.5 an will be getting this same, this coming week! Other then than not much else changed but If I didn’t note it, I got my HLG Scorpion at max height , full power running at a 330 par range, an they seem to be loving it, they were praying all week to the led gods haha ! Well I hope you all enjoy! Please stay tuned in for next week!! Let’s have another great week Cheers Fam ✌️💨💨💨! Week 2 let’s Go!!!

Moved this beast to my 400watt HPS room, blooming really started now finally, this plant wont be ready before week 15 but the yield will be massive

📆 Semana 6 La Slapz ha empezado a sacar su carácter esta semana. Los cogollos se están formando con mucha fuerza y empiezan a tener ese aspecto compacto y agresivo tan típico de esta genética. La resina va cubriendo con rapidez las flores y las hojas cercanas, dándole un look pegajoso y potente. En cuanto a la nutrición, sigo con XpertNutrients y el añadido de Sticky Fingers, que ya se está notando claramente: los tricomas están explotando y el perfil aromático empieza a intensificarse, con ese fondo gaseoso y dulce que caracteriza a esta variedad. Los Adlite siguen haciendo su trabajo impecablemente, y se nota sobre todo en cómo la Slapz está sacando cogollos consistentes hasta en zonas más bajas, aprovechando toda la estructura. El entorno se mantiene estable, con temperaturas entre 22 y 25 °C y una humedad del 55%, controlada gracias a una buena circulación de aire. De momento, ningún síntoma de estrés o problema relacionado con hongos. Aromáticamente, empieza a destacar por esa mezcla entre lo funky y lo afrutado, con un golpe potente que se anticipa a lo que puede venir en las próximas semanas. Una planta que promete pegar fuerte, como su nombre indica. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte! 💪

Day 120 Smells good buds are fatter and looking better then I thought last week, I flushed but I think I may have caused nutrient burn or nitrogen since my stems have turned purple also along the buds and tips or ideas of what I should try thanks Day 127 photos at the bottom

Slight light burn on a couple plants had to raise the LED. On the off week Light seems to be allot more effective at civering the space although the plants did not take well to the spectrum/heat adjustment so the first two days i had to ween the light on a couple hours at a time. I could tell when they needed a break because they woukd physically get droopy once they got over whelmed eventually they got used to it tho!

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Meine Babys starten nun in die 4. Woche der Vegetation. Einige Ladys haben bereits Vorblüte Stadium erreicht. Sie werden alle 2-3 Tage gegossen, alle 7 Tage bekommen Sie die angegebenen Nährstoffe. Bisher ein optimaler Run, keine Wachsstumsstörungen durch Stress, keine Defizite ersichtlich. Möglicherweise mein bester Run bisher. Sie bekommen Bat Guano als Microbenquelle, Rohr Molasse als Futter Quelle für die Microben, Dann Hesi Vit, eine Enzym Konzentration ( max2. Tropen auf 5 L) & Seawead fertilazior, was das genau bringt weiß ich nicht genau aber es wirkt 😄🏽‍♂️

Plants are all doing amazing ! They are all growing in a very even and uniform fashion. Seems like quality genetics so far. Plants are on track to be transplanted by next week or one more tops Fed with very light dose of supplemental nutrients at 6.5ph Plants are getting 25k lux.

28 días de mis hermosas nenas... A una semana lo más probable las pasare a florar!!!

I'm a little late with update, I was very busy. In grow room it is all under control. the buds are filling up. Strech has stoped. There is 18 days since flower Smeel is pretty strong, i just need to set up carbon filter. Next update will be in a fev days. ✌️🤘💚💜

Estamos en la última semana para dos de las cuatro variedades, así que a partir de este momento, eliminamos Bio Flores. Añadiremos al bidón de riego Canna Flush, que nos va a ayudar a lavar bien nuestras raíces, eliminando restos de sales y nutrientes. Buscamos que las plantas gasten sus reservas de las hojas, que poco a poco veremos como pierden verdor, eliminando clorofila, sobre todo las más bajas. Canna Flush - 20ml por cada 10 litros de agua. Bajamos la potencia de nuestros balastros a 600w.

1/14: This morning, I did a foliar application of big bloom and fulvic acid, then about 5 hours later I watered them with about a half-gallon of rainwater each and added armor si, humic acid, endoboost myco/tricho, liquid molasses, and a bunch of cal-mag. Today, I also I wired up and mounted my new samsung sun board strips (660nm/730nm) and my Solacure FlowerPower UVB fixture. I'm running the deep red/far red bud boosters a few hours per day right now, but will run them for the entire photoperiod once I start flowering them. I'll run the UVB for 4 * 15-minute sessions a day for the full flowering cycle, and if they don't protest too much I'll increase each session by 5 minutes and evaluate again. Some strains are more forgiving than others and I've got 5 different strains in this space...so really not sure much time I'll get away with exposing them to the deadly rays without damaging them too much...😈 1/15: I received one of the rapid led/growmau far red initiator pucks today. With the placement of my UVB light, I'm realizing I'll need another far red puck to have even and intense far red coverage, so I'm ordering another with Prime delivery and waiting to start flowering until I receive it. I sprayed them down really well with ph adjusted rainwater tonight to rinse off nutrient build-up from foliar applications. 1/16: I'm really excited to try flowering under 14/10. I grew photos indoors on an off for 15 years before I semi-retired. If I added up all the additional flowering time I could have done through the years if LED technology existed, I'd have had an extra truckload of bud to smoke. I did another application of Axiom Harpin a|b Proteins this evening, right before dark. I'm expecting a big growth burst this week, leading up to the flower stretch. I really need them to trigger under 14/10 within 4 or 5 days🙏 ...if not, I'll switch to 13/11 and wait a few more days🙏😟..if still no pistils are poppin, I'll go to 12/12 and chalk it up as bad luck or varietal indifference to Pr and Pfr manipulation. 1/17: I fed each of them about 3/4 gallon of full strength veg nutes. This will be the last. I'll go with half-strength veg and half-strength bloom for a week, then go with full strength bloom nutrients until I start flushing them in 6-8 weeks. 1/18: I installed the second far-red flowering initiator today and got all my timers configured for flowering: ========================================= timer#1 - power strip with qb's and red boosters 10:00am -12:00am timer#2 - (dual/independent setting) sideA- 3-way cube with uva bars 10am - 3pm 7pm - 11pm sideB- flowerpower uvb 1pm - 1:15pm 4pm - 4:15pm 7pm - 7:15pm 11pm - 11:15pm timer#3 - far red pucks 11:00pm - 12:15am timer#4 - sub-canopy tube 10am - 1pm 3pm - 6pm 8pm - 11pm ======================================== I also did some testing on the timers and sealed myself into the closet to check for any light leaks. All good.👌 1/19: Tonight is their first long night. It's ON!👍 1/19: Looks like the FIM job didn't take on one of them..but she's got perfect symmetry. WIll probably have to just top her again next week...gonna be a tall one I think. Tonight is their first long night. It's ON!👍 1/20: I watered them today with about a half gallon each. I'm seeing calcium and magnesium deficiences here and there, so added some boomerang and heavy cal-mag-Fe along with liquid molasses, humic acid, and endoboost myco. I also foliar fed with big bloom and fulvic acid. That's it for week 4-

Hey From now on I will only give water for the remaining 2 weeks, in the last week of the flush I will water with ice water to provoke a purple color. We're coming to an end, that's great :) I’m exited for the relentless seeds for the next run 🙌🏻 Cannaapeace

Heute am 21.1 nochmal alle unnötigen Blätter entfernt.Tag 53: Die Blüten entwickeln sich prächtig 😻

KKKK omg 986 g wet with branches, and trimmed only the parts that were very dry. The smell is moderately strong, very sweet and pleasant. I believe that once dried, trimmed, and cured it will yield around 160-200 g. For the flush I did the following: I used 15 L of water with Flawless Finish and left it for 12 hours. After that, I rinsed with 5-liter increments until the runoff PPM was below 250, which took 100 L of water. I let it dry for 72 hours and harvested today. ________________________________________________________ 15 days later.... 170g weight dry sweet+coffee smells 8/10 low high

February 28, 2019 Update: Getting close to the end here. Cream & Cheese should only be a week or two away from flush. Feeding only MegaCrop & Cal+Mag Pro until the flush. This week I took pictures with the lights off and my camera flash on, I think these pics look better than last weeks. Bonus pic at the end of the view from my bedroom window. I'd love to see my buds get that frosty! 👍

~ FASTBUDS TESTER #2205 ~ Well friends, here we go on another 'canna-venture' together! The grow room has had a complete remodel and some upgrades done to it including brand spanking new 4x8 and 4x4 tents and a Trolmaster Hydro X controller along with a new Control Panel. This tester strain is one of six tester strains that FastBuds has graciously provided me with and I'm looking forward to seeing what this girl has to offer when she's grown to her full potential! One drawback of 'testers' is I have little to no information on it other than its number and that it's an autoflower... 🤪 But, it's ALWAYS a blast growing them for me because not knowing a lot allows me to just concentrate on the essentials: Light, Environment, Water, Nutrients and possibly a bit of LST... not complicated, just basics like keeping a constant temperature and RH in the tent at a level that gives a good VPD, watering when almost dry and maintaining proper light levels according to their stage of growth. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ~THE SETUP~ ~Initially seeds were lightly scuffed, then soaked for 3 hours in 78℉ distilled water after which they were transferred to moist paper towels laid out in a Jiffy Pellet plastic starter tray with lid. Underneath the tray was placed a Mars Hydro Heat Mat with Controller that was set to 78℉ where they stayed until their tap roots emerged. ~Planted into Jiffy Peat Pellets that were hydrated with distilled water warmed to 78℉ with a 7.0 ph. ~Once roots emerge from the Jiffy Pellet they're transferred to their fabric pots. ~Grown 100% organic in a 4g Gronest fabric pot and a 3g fabric pot by Wraxly filled with Mother Earth 70/30 Coco/Perlite medium and initially amended with Dr. Earth 4-4-4 / Earthworm Castings / Dr. Earth Flower Girl 3-9-4 and Coast of Maine Stonington Blend Organic Plant Food 5-2-4. ~19/5 light cycle for the entire run with supplemental UVA added during flower. Lights are controlled by a Trolmaster Hydro X controller set for a 15min Sunrise/Sunset simulation. ~Top dressing every 3-4 weeks with slow release dry amendments and Earthworm castings. ~Straight water ph'd @ 6.2-6.8 when needed and bi-weekly Compost Tea's. ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 1/19- Here we go into Week Four of flower and these testers are ON FIRE!🔥🔥🔥 Both testers are in a flower frenzy and are ready to eat! Today I gave both girls their last top dressing with Down To Earth 4-8-4 Flower Mix at a ratio of 2tbsp/g and Coast of Maine's Stonington Blend 5-2-4 Organic Plant Food at a ratio of 1tbsp/g which I simplified by using 1/3 cup of the 4-8-4 and 1/4 cup of the 5-2-4 in the 4g pot and 3/8 cup of 4-8-4 and 1/8 cup of the 5-2-4 in the 3g pot. After working the amendments into the medium, I watered it in with 1g of straight de-chlorinated water ph'd to 6.6 @ 74℉. It will take a week for the microbes to begin breaking it down and will last for 3-4 weeks after that which should coincide with them finishing up, or close to it, enabling them to naturally 'flush' themselves out. I've also increased the power to the HLG 650R's the the Trolmaster Hydro X Controller to 75% which has them pulling 990w at the wall and have them hung 32" above canopy. I also starting adding in 4 hours of UVA during the middle of the light cycle for the remainder of flower. I've been monitoring their leaf temperatures and they're running 71-73℉ which is perfect! I have the AutoPilot APC8200 co2 Controller set to 1100ppm with a 100ppm window and the AC Infinity Cloudline T6 controller set to maintain a 74℉ temperature in the tent while the lights are on. 1/21- I'm watering these thirsty girls daily with straight de-chlorinated water ph'd it to 6.6 @ 74℉ and they're both thriving! The #1 pheno stays in a perpetual state of 'praying'.... a VERY happy girl she is and the #2 is just enormous with tons of bud sites and flowers that are starting to get a coating of white trichomes giving her that frosty appearance! 1/23- I watered/fed both testers today with 0.75g of de-chlorinated water each with GreenGro's Natures Brix, Granular Myco and Flower Finisher mixed in, after which I added 1 tsp/g of unsulfured molasses and then ph'd it to 6.6 @ 74℉. They'll be getting straight water from here moving forward as the medium has enough food in it to support them until they finish. 1/25- Daily watering continued today with both girls receiving 0.75g of straight de-chlorinated water ph'd to 6.6 @ 74℉. Both testers are extremely healthy and in max flower mode. Both testers are looking amazing and always in a constant state of 'praying'! I'm really looking forward to Week Five of flower where these ladies should start to look epic! 😍💚 😎💚 Thank you for checking out my passion in life! Please visit as often as you wish and I hope you enjoy this journey as much as I know I will! Grow Strong! 💪😎🤙