Venga familia, cosecha de estas Thunder Banana de Seedstockers, que ganas que tenia ya de darles machetazo. No veas que pinta que tienen estas plantas. Las flores aparte se ven bien resinosas, prietas, aparte son aromáticas huelen bien fuerte. En general es una genética con la que disfruté bastante cultivarla, la genética es perfecta para cultivos de floración corta con rangos entre los 20/25 grados en interior, es de dificultad media cultivarla y bien resistente, es excelente para cultivadores algo experimentados y con algo de conocimientos. Hasta aquí es todo, espero que lo disfrutéis, buenos humos 💨💨.

So, short week , because i just got back. Girl is fine, two more weeks of heavy feed and thrn flush. Smells amazing and she will have new tent on my first dayoff. Next run is pushing her out ;)))

Evening fellow growers. Hope all is well and you’re all doing great! This has got to be one of the hardest grows i have done. I always knew starting this early in the year was going to be hard and it’s proving that way. And again a massive shout to James and the team at RQS for supporting me and supplying me with the seeds. 🙌 Here we are week 6 the start of the second week of flower. These ladies are moving along alright (I think) although the cold weather is back and has not been to kind over the last couple days. They are still stretching out which is good, just signs of cold which isn’t the best. The bud sites are forming slowly and the structure of these plants looks good. Let’s see what this week brings. ✌️ Day 37, watered 500mil with some nutrients. Held of on them for the last week so just adding them in slowly. Hoping they pick up a little. Took a few fan leafs off that are covering bud sites but other than that just leaving them to it. No pics as it’s very cold and don’t want them out the tent too long. ✌️ Day 38, warmer today and these girls seem to be ok. Nothing done just a couple photos and a video. ✌️ Day 39, watered tonight with 500mil and a little feed. ✌️

This is the 8th week. Thursday will be 9 weeks of 12/12. Some trichs are amber. They just added a good bunch of girth over the past few days, but most of the pistils are red now. The rest of them have been dropping leaves consistenly but the canopy remains full so they must be putting out more leaves. I just flushed to 80% runoff and found out that I had 1200ppm. I just got an ec meter but my last reading said closer to 600 so idk what happened there. I flushed until I had runoff ppm of about 150. Now they're back in the grow tent. I don't want to keep assaulting them with my microscope. I think they're ready. Just gonna let them settle another day or two to dry out a bit. I took one small branch off the small Wedding Cake plant on Thursday and I've just been watching it dry on my counter. It's been 5 days and the stem snaps but still leaves a fiber connecting. I put it into a small jar with a 64RH thing. I just want to try it. It already smells amazing. The leaves on the big CBD Blue Shark plant are going really yellow and some other colours are starting to come out as well. The buds all fattened up and got more frosty again. I was worried they were foxtailing but they got more calyxes underneath the peaks and have been making more of a pyramid shape. They're really close to peak. Harvest day will be March 17 or 18. March 17 1023pm chopped and hung after lights off all day. RH was 65% before I chopped and 50% after I closed the window and cut the plants off the saturated pots. I did a wet trim to prevent mold. The buds are sticky af. Gonna hang them to dry for 7-9 days before curing in jars :) March 18 : checked the RH when I woke up and it's chilling at 45% 😎 March 19 : just checked to see how they were drying. There are seeds in every plant. RIP I'll update when I put them in jars and again a few weeks later for final review. Overall it was a good grow despite the rocky start and a good introduction to the mainline technique and my new grow space. Next grow I should have everything pretty well dialed in. March 23 They were hanging for 3 days. Rh was around 45, then spiked to 65 overnight when I forgot to turn the fans back on. Temp was high at around 26.they felt wet after 2 days, and bone dry after 4 days. The stems still didn't snap but I put them in jars anyway. A day later, jar RH was 50%. I burped all the jars and there was a smell from the new jars. I took all the weed out, washed out the jars, and did a dry trim on the weed. One of the Wedding Cake plants must have gone hermie. I didn't see any bananas and didn't even realize there were seeds until the very end. The seed pods looked just like calyxes while the plants were growing. Many of the nugs are unusable. Under the sugar leaves are just layers and layers of seeds. Some weren't hit that badly. The CBD Blue Shark is much better off but still has some seeds. I'm trying to stay positive. It's a bit of a shock though. I'm anxious to try the finished product. If the flowers at least taste good and have a good effect, all is not lost.

Final week of water.. this week will be the last one, from sunday 7 she will be deprived of water until she start showing amber trichomes.. then I will chop her! Smells like citrus and gasoline :Q_ From tuesday to friday just dry soil.. she start drying still alive 😛

Switched to flowering. She grew 10cm in 3 days... absolutely crazy. I took the tough decision to discontinue the TimeLapse. My tent is not big enough to have the camera in a place that kinda makes sense. So I'll be taking manual photos in the coming days and uploading those.

Well this week was plain Jane. A little nute burn started, you can see it on the tips, but I was purposely giving them high nutrients in order to see what they could handle. The sativa in the middle is stretching hardcore. I'm currently having issues trying to keep my humidity below 55. I can't seem to get it lower than 58. The monsoon season in AZ is temporary though and should rectify itself soon enough. Leave a comment or find me @hydrotrolly on Instagram and Facebook. https://medicgrow.com/?ref=HydroTrolly

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

2018-03-20 Week 12 Day 1 New week and not much to say. No water or nutes today, just the regular weekly check to see that they look nice and healthy. Raised the lamp about 10 cm to make sure that the girls don't get burned again. Crazy Cookies nr1 is 52 cm Crazy Cookies nr2 is 49 cm ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Strain information: The word synergy is a business term first quoted in the early eighties to describe mutual enhancement through interaction or cooperation, where the end result gained is greater than the sum of the parts used. What do synergy and the Crazy Cookies cannabis strain have to do with each other you may well ask? The parents of the forthrightly indica Crazy Cookies are marijuana royalty. OG Kush and Girl Scout Cookies. These strains of contemporary legend have been combined to cerebrum shattering effect. The cured flowers deliver a mouth-watering and couchlocking 24% THC. The initial delectable spacey upbeat onrush compliments of the Durban Poison coursing through the genes of the Cookies soon becomes a lush and rich, inescapably delicious body flux. There should be a picture of a Crazy Cookie nugget in the dictionary next to the word synergy. Crossing the OG back into the Cookies has amplified the psychoactive effects of the notorious lineage of both parents. This is an indica with a capital I. As a breeder it would be fair to assume that injecting more OG into the Cookies would result in an OG-dominant Cookie, or even close to a pure OG, but something else has happened. Some long dormant genetic switch has been flipped and a standalone indica has emerged whose spicy notes and earthy tones, hints of grape and horny pheromone are an absolute pleasure. Paying this breed some careful attention as it grows will reward you substantially, indoors or out. Typical hybrid vigour is shown throughout each grow phase. Stout plants to 80cm can be expected indoors and muscular examples with fluted stalks growing to two metres can be easily achieved outdoors. Good bracing is necessary as the flowers mature. With more than 500g at harvest per robust plant, colas can easily snap and twist branches. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Es waren alles tolle Pflanzen. Zum Teil ein wenig Probleme mit Bananen aber ansonsten Problemloser Grow.

Leave's edges have turned yellow and it was fed with a good amount of 6.5 ph water to give her a break. Watered for second time this week with just 6.5 ph water.

Hoy después de 10 días sin colgar nada las plantas presentan un ptipo de carencia debido al suelo debíl de inicio. Trasplantados a tiestos de tela reforzando el mantillo. En estos días he dejado un plazo más largo antes de volver a preparar el te de compost. Hoy recibirán su riego de té y esta mañana han sido rociadas.. La verdad que el efecto de positivo de rociar las plantas de buena mañana las deja bien tiesas y vigorosas. Antes de este riego recibió una tirada de agua sola y la siguiente fue de SST basado en brotes de soja germinados un técnica que aporta muchas vitaminas y enzimas a las plantas. El compost tea de esta semana le he agregado : Tierra de cultivo 100g Hummus de lombriz 200g Guano de murciélago 80g Cola de caballo 2.5g Spirulina 7g Hidrolizado de kelp 20g Ácidos fulvico 2ml Melaza 76ml Mezcla para 15 litros. A ver como le sienta.. Me siguen recomendando que le de algún aporte con productos pero sigo buscando el modo de hacerlo por mi mismo.. Si alguien cultiva así a base de tea estaría interesado en compartir conocimientos

Transplanted into a 2 gallon fabric pot today this will be the final pot seeing what happens with it.

A great week for the girls, an explosion of flower growth. They are not the largest Autoflower’s, but they are robust. The main cola is about 9 inches, with tight bud spacing and stacking. The satellite buds are also nice size with some good density. These girls have not shown any issues with the cronk nutrient/dosage that has been given, while some of the others have been more finicky. They are feeling greasy, and have a some good terps starting as I open the tent. RH has been kept between 55-58 % while temps have gotten as high as 81, but typically hover around 78 degrees. They are getting close to a gallon of water at feed time, which is about every 4 days. I’m happy with these girls so far as there are a several weeks left in their cycle. Happy Gardening 🇨🇦👊❤️

1 month 👌🏻

Final week of flower she's only been given plane water she will be cut down in a few days the dark colour on the leafs are really showing

7/4 SUN was poking out a little bit. Plants loved that little feeding and seen to he noticeable larger this morning. I'm considering starting the nutes. At least the organic ones as well as upping the water intake I've been scared to water with all this rain and my experience last time. I plan on applying BT this afternoon and doing some work on the bottoms of the plants. I also saw a chipmunk in my cage so I have some spots in my fence that need to be patched. I know I can't compare this year to orher years as these are seeds and all the other years were clones. I CAN say for certain that my plants are healthiest they've been out of any of my journals. Previous plants were much larger but I was fighting numerous fungal, pathogens and pests at the sane time. Ear wigs would've lollipopped most buddies by now but I've seen no sign of them. I'm going to apply more poison where they were and add some rat traps inside the cage for the chipmunks. Once I fix the cage I think I'll be good. UPDATE: Went back over and fixed the holes on my cage from high winds. I found an old wire trap or cage and just cut sections and ziptied them to the existing wire and to the structure thus covering any open holes. I'll need to put lathes aroubdvtge outside because if a rodent REALLY wanted in they could get in. My belt had been wearing thin but I use shit until it breaks (yesterday the heal came off my shoe lol) so I was working hard sweating my nuts off and my belt gives out totally. At least ive got the major stuff done. I took a few videos too. I'm imagining it was this little bit of sun that gave these plants that boost of growth but I'm wondering if the added nutes had anything to do with it. Bags weren't light and I could feel moisture in the soil so I didn't water. I'll check again tomorrow morning. Since I didn't see many plants or even leaves for that matter with damage I decided to hold off ob the BT and the plant doctor. Only time will tell if that was the right decision. 7/5 Plants look fantastic. I see a few more holes in leaves sporadically amd I'm hoping it's pillars. I've seen lots of lightning bugs on my camera though and grasshoppers are abundant. Not one growth shoot has been chewed (knock on wood) which is what the earwigs had always done. I watched a video from last year and by nowcthey had lollipopped all lower leaves. It may not be the best weather growing season wise but despite the rh consistently in the 90's I still don't have pm or fungal pathogens. Need to get the BT out. Didn't water as we've had all that rain. I'll water either tonight or tomorrow morning. Sunny high in the 90s low is 66. Tomorrow looks good too. UPDATE WENT BACK OVER AROUND FIVE. IT WAS 88 DEGREES SO I WANTED TO CHECK THE GROW BAGS. THE POTS ARE FINE. IT WAS HUMID AS HELL. ONE PLANT WAS SLIGHTLY DROOPY BUT VERY LIGHT AND DRY. I FOUND TWO OTHERS THAT SEEMED LIGHTER THAN THE REST BUT HADNT DROOPED. I MIXED TWO GALLONS OF WATER WITH 1TSP KANGOROOTS AMD PHED IT CLOSE TO 6. I FED THE 3 PLANTS THAT WERE SUPER DRY LIKE A HALF GALLON AND SPRED THE REST OVER THE OTHER EIGHT PLANTS. THEY WERENT DROOPING BUT THEY WERE VERY DRY. I PLAN ON A FULL WATER TOMORROW. I WOULDVE DONE IT TODAY IF THE TEMPS WERENT SO HIGH. ITS RAINED A MONTH STRAIGHT SO I HAVENT HAD TO WATER. I MADE A COUPLE VIDEOS BUT I'LL HAVE TO UPLOAD TOMORROW. 7/6 Another super hot day. I hefted the pots and they still had some weight but I could tell they were dry. This rain has messed up my watering schedule. Well it made it so I didn't NEED to water. These are big plants now. I need to get a schedule to stick too. They're going to probably need a gallon a piece at least. I'm still nervous watering. Right now I'm just reading the plants. I added .5tsp kelp me/you to 1 gallon of water to help with heat stress. I fed an additional two gallons to the garden this morning including the two container plants in the back. They were dry on top too but I know they have water deeper down. Next watering I'll be more consistent and try to give them there 10%. It's great having the bags elevated. I can finally see when I start getting run off. I could even measure the ph of it instead of relying on that meter. Ill check the ph when I go back over. Still a few 🐛 holes but they are few and far between. I really don't want to spray for such a small problem but if I cant find them at night that's what I'll do. UPDATE: Another 90 degree day. I went back over and gave the garden a gallon of water as they were dry and it didn't rain. Tried to use a soil ph meter to check ph. First couple were 6.4, 6.5 then I got 7.3 and I accidently dropped it. Then I got somethings that were high eights and even one 9! Obviously the Meter shit the bed. I'll lower the ph of the water slightly when I fully water tomorrow and I'm going to measure the runoff. 7/8 I must've messed up the journal again as the dates are off. GAVE PLANTS A FULL WATERING. Each girl got a gallon. I couldn't upload my videos this morning as I had to break up a fight. 3 on 1. Didn't give me a chance to put the videos up. I'll take some stills then I can upload them. I took stills and they all uploaded but didn't fucking save. I'm nit going to keep trying to upload if it's not going to. Noticed a few more holes in leaves and one skeletinized leaf so I need to either spray the bt or something more versatile. I'm putting more poison around the cage and de between the bags. I'll go check things out tonight. Sick of writing a book and uploading to just hace them disappear 7/9 Did a quick video today. Noticed the bags were fairly light despite the plants being soaked amd the pallets wet. I was pressed for time. I gave two gallons to the entire garden. I hope that will hold them over until tomorrow. I'll need to up how much water I give them. Going with a gallon and a half next time. I see more pillar spots and a moth took off when I shook the plants this morning. So I'm gonna have too apply the BT. I figure if I go over before dark tonight I might be able to see aju nocturnal insects around. Luckily my dad feeds the birds and they are always there. I think they help with pests. UPDATE IT WAS A LITTLE COOLER TODAY BUT MICH MORE HUMID. I WENT AROUND SIX TO MAKE SURE THE GIRLS WERE OK WITH WATER AND TO GIVE THEM A TREATMENT OF BT. I WENT THROUGH THE GARDEN ANDCGOUND THREE LEQVES TO DEFOLIATE AND LITERALLY A COUPLE LEAVES ON TWO PLANTS WITH PILLAR HILESM WHEN I ARRIVED TWO BIRDS FLEW OUT. A HORNET CAME IN WHILE I WAS THERE. THIS DO LESS APPROACH SEEMS TO BE REALLY WORKING. I DODNT SEE NEARLT ENOUGH DAMAGE TO WARRANT SPRAY8NG MY EXTREMELY HEALTHY GIROS WITH ANYTHING. ILL KEEP AN EYE ON THEM AND CLEAN THEM UP A BIT. I DO NEED TO INSTALL THE VERY8CAL TRELLIS FOR SUPPORT. THEYRE PRETTY HEALTHY THOUGH. ONE PLANT IS ABOUT AS WIDE AS IT IS TALL. STILL......PLANTS ARE EXPLODING AND ITS GETTING TIGHT IN THERE. I NEED TO GET THE TRELLIS UP THOUGH. 7/10 I went over and was planning to water. Plants were wet and it's raining. Top of the medium was moist but the bags were light. ONE bag was super light but seeing that we are having showers all day and an additional half inch of rain coming tonight so I didn't water them. Especially since they looked great. Decided to to spray BT yet as the damage is so small and i think the birds have been taking care of the pillars for me. Now I'm wondering if I should've gave that ONE plant a little bit of water but it will be find. Did a video. I'm being careful not to over water. Last year this is when all my buddies were devoured by earwigs. And no senescence like the years before. I think it was hust those earwigs. I haven't lost shot for leaves. Even the stalks are bright green and look amazing.

Всем тем, кто следит за мной здоровья и удачи. Наступило время вновь обновить дневник легендарного «AK-47» от «Serious seeds». Уже четвёртая неделя от прорастания семечек. Прогресс очевиден. Но к сожалению, одно из растений показывает болезнь. Судя по всему, его корни немного пострадали при пересадке и так как оно не успело восстановиться я ему дал такой же состав раствора, как и другим растениям, после чего он начал показывать передозировку удобрениями, его листья пожелтели и начали слегка закручиваться, боковые отростки практически не развивались за это время, я был вынуждает отрезать несколько пар нижних отмерших листьев. Так же я пролил больное растение чистой водой с пониженным P.h и замерил выход раствора из горшка, и он показал повышенные P.h и повышенное PPM. После чего я я продолжил промывать субстрат растения чистой водой с пониженным P.h, пока его значения не снизились до 6.2P.h. и 850ppm, а также я не стал прикрывать в горшке субстрат, чтоб лишняя влага смогла испаряться из горшка. У здоровых растений я обрезал большие листья, чтоб развивались боковые ветви, так как я буду подготавливать эти растения к клонированию, так же как и остальные два штамма которые стоят в этой палатке.