We're having a big freeze in the state and they are asking us to conserve electricity, so I didn't add extra heat to the grow room. Plants still expanding though, so this is the last week of vegetation. The ScrOG is almost full, so I expect it will fill in during the first couple weeks of flower. Changed the lighting to 12/12 on Day 48. Bought the Clone Master 25 to take clones of these 3 plants before they shift to flower. Took 3 snips of the 3 different strains. Going to play with clones a bit.

I am so in love with watching them grow. PH 6.5 seems to be the sweet spot... I couldn't be more excited for the weeks ahead. I haven"t scene anything other then some sagging cus they were thirsty.. But that is a good thing. I want to fully train the roots so they have a nice spread in their pot. I learned that it is ALL ABOUT THE ROOTS !!! Healthy Roots are a Beautiful and Healthy Plant..

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Flowering day 22 since time change to 12/12 h Hey guys :-) The stretch is in full swing and it continues to develop beautifully :-). The GBL fertilizer does exactly the job it should 👍. Organic more PK will be added in the coming days. It was poured 3 times this week (for nutrients, see table above). The lowest shoots have been removed so that the energy reaches the upper area completely :-). Otherwise, as always, the lady was checked for her health and the tent was cleaned. I wish you all a lot of fun with the update this week. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/cream-caramel/ Type: Cream Caramel ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blue Black x Maple Leaf Indica x White Rhino 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Nutrients : Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 .

they suffered from the cold and some are behind but we are going ...

One last week and chop chop. Strawberry n cream really looks like it could go another few weeks but I’m done lol. They all smell amazing!!!

What a pleasure these Pinapple are to grow. I couldn't be happier with the way they are filling out the scrog net. My only question is how bushy is too bushy? I've had to trim out a serious amount of undergrowth and large central fan leaves. I think a combination of great genetics and the complete spectrum the 315s output is causing the canopy to be so so dense. I'm just hoping the buds fatten up too! I'm trying to leave them alone as much as possible and I'm no longer tucking them under the net. I'll leave them to recover from today's defoliation and do some more plucking next weekend. I've got a feeling this tent is going to look very different in 7 days time! Now on everyday watering. Keeping the EC below 2.0 and fluctuating PH from 5.7 to 6.1 throughout the week to uptake as many nutrients as possible. Mid week edit: Please check out my last 5 photos added at day 52. One of the 2 Pineapple Express I have in the tent is looking really tired and droopy. I cant seem to figure out what is causing it as the other Pinapple is happy and praying. I also have 2 Six Shooter and a Cream Cookies and both of those are happy and stacking on the bud. Temps are solid at 29 degrees light on and 21 dark. Feeding when required. They just look like they are lacking something. Some of the oldest fan leaves have brown rusty patches on them too. I've given each plant a Biosys Microbe tea today in place of a regular feed. Ive also emptied and scrubbed out my water tank and watering can. Hopefully that brings them round but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Day 53, I've turned the blurple LED off in the centre and also reduced to 18/6 light cycle. They just look so lifeless. Almost like they are sick of the light. If she recovers I'll try turning the LED back on next week.

Good week... she's grown a lot, is looking VERY strong - #1's stem is already pretty thick for such a young plant.... so I think I'm going to let her get a couple more nodes on her and then top and clone her... #2 is a little weaker so I think I might top her this week. I've put them both on an aggressive veg feed and they're both responding very nicely to it... such a difference from autoflowers! I find it fascinating..... so much so that I tend to rather ignore them... for example, I think I MAY have given them a drink of something only 4 or 5 times in their lives (they've just celebrated their 4th week from seed)... never any complaints, never saying "hey, fool - pay attention to me!" .... I glance at them once a day and move on.... Still trying to decide where in my yard they're going to be planted - but I've got at least 4 more weeks before I'll feel comfortable enough with the weather to go dig a hole for them... SHOULD also start some LST, I suppose.... going to be relying on LST a lot outdoors so I can hopefully avoid the bud rot that plagued me last year... Great fun! May 4 - I've decided I'm going to top #1 today and stick the top in Clonex, into a RootRiot and plunk it into a DWC bucket ... so while I'll have these two plants out in the yard waiting for an October harvest, I can flip the clone indoors for an earlier harvest to see if I like the strain at all.... Hmmm... maybe I'll do that to both of them and keep one in veg while I flip one of them... This is kind of cool - I'm learning about all the possibilities growing photoperiods gives you... just amazing! I'm like a kid in a candy store! LOL! I'll put up a video when I top and clone... but don't take it as gospel because this will be my first time and I don't REALLY know what the hell I'm doing... just having fun and experimenting! May 5 - Happy Cinco de Mayo! Didn't get around to topping and starting a clone yesterday... but I've just now posted up two videos - the first where I'm determining where to top - and the second, longer one, where I place the top I've just cut off into DWC to clone... or ATTEMPT to clone! LOL! God knows if this is going to work... if you've got any comments on what I've done, hints for a better way of doing things PLEASE comment below! I could use all the help I can get! Should I, for example, chop off the lower fan leaves of the top? Or are they needed for the top to survive? I can't help but think they're a pretty big drain on the poor thing... #1, which is the one I topped, is really showing me she needs to get outside in the yard... her roots are starting to peek through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot.... I THOUGHT a 2-gallon would be big enough to last at least a month and a half but..... I'm going to have to get serious about where to put these ladies!

I defoliated a lot of the under canopy today so I could move the scrog net upwards. These girls just had to stretch and stretch their legs. And, yes, the smell on my fingers after handling them was intensely citrus. I only gave them a little water this week as the air has been very moist and the soil has been damp enough.

.

Semaine au top tout se passe à merveille 🤩

30% of the pistils are brown now. Trichrome are 100% milky. Started flushing on this week. I hope that buds are still going to fatten up a lititle before harvest.

Ok so getting a bit concerned. I'm trying to keep nutrients low, but am noticing spotting on some other leaves and some of the white pistils lower down are growing in brown instead of white. Spotting on at least one of the plants has gotten to the degree I've trimmed it a bit and the lower leaves look fine. Please let me know if you see an issue with any of the above pictures / advice. - Update: Ok looks like I have a bit of light burn and possibly some nutrient issues as well. Have been adding more cal mag. Trying to water a bit less than was as may not have been letting the coco dry out enough. And I have moved my LED lights as far up as is possible currently to try and see how it goes, not sure If I've mucked this up or will still get a decent harvest. Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome. Edited: 28/09/18 Got a nice mini led microscope to check out my affected leaves. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LAX52IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Glad to report that I have not seen a single mite on any of my checks between 60 to 120 magnification. Even split open a stem where I had to remove a leaf earlier and had a look inside just to be sure. There are lots of little circle type globs on the leaves, but I take it this is trichomes and not eggs.

Alors aujourd'hui je fais du BHO et pour vous remercier de votre fidélité je vais vous montrer ma méthode (que j utilisé dans le passé (j ai depuis acheter du matériel un peut plus professionnel ;) Alors pour tous sa il vous faudra =1..2 seringue de 300ml ou plus dispo sur mamazon = des filtres à café (NON BLANCHIE !!!) =des colier de serrage pour fixer les filtres. = et bien sûr du gaz (butane et en général je prend du gaz filtrer 12x pour éviter les saleté qu il peut y avoir dans certain gaz . =et enfin il vous faudra un bol pour récupérer tous le nectar^^ (J UTILISE DES MOULES A GÂTEAUX EN SILICONE (rien qui accroche) Mais si vous utilisez un extracteur en plastique et ou un moule en silicone il faudra absolument prendre du butane et non pas DME =CAR LE DME ENMENE DES PARTICULES DE SILICONES EY DE PLASTIQUE LORS DU GAZAGE Voilà voilà je vais commencer et prendre des vidéo au fur et à mesure que je vais poster pour vous montrer . Après 1heure de dégazage vous aurez une fine couche ai fond qu il va falloir travailler pour y faire rentrer de l air (ne t inquiète pas j vais poster une vidéo se soir ou tu pourra voir comment faire..) Le crumble est je pense la seul sorte de bho que l on peut faire sans trop d équipement (pour le reste il faudrais evaporatrice rotative ou autre etc ) Avec le crumble c est votre main qui fais le travail = l objectif est que l air touche toute les partie de la patte comme sa le gaz sort et l air oxyde les trichome etc etc

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Only one picture this week! Nothing much to say. I reorganised the compost.

Got everything hung up. Stripped the fan leaves and broke down into sections. Run 60/60 or as close as i can get until the stems snap.

Hi all👨‍🌾👋 Welcome to my another week update Hope everyone keeping well 🧑‍🌾 Week 4 Feb 23 - Feb 29 Very good week. Girls are growing nicely. Finally a bit of work around my babies. On Feb 24 applied LST, girls responded perfectly. Leaves tucking on daily basis. 2 watering with 1L each on Feb 24th (half nutrients dose) and second one on Feb 28 alongside with 2 foliar feedings(100ml water and fish mix). So far this grow is just a pure joy. Both girls are strong and healthy. Wishing you all a wonderful week✨🍀 Much appreciate all your likes, follows and comments. 🙏💚❤️💜 Peace and love brothers and sisters 👨‍🌾✌️💚 Links https://2fast4buds.com/seeds/TROPICANA-COOKIES-AUTO https://www.biobizz.com/ https://fishheadfarms.com/

Bottom left I forgot I mixed with coco as I didnt have enough livingsoil left to fill the pot. Showing some signs of fading but giving it a dose of biobizz tonight and 50g 2 8 10 amendment to each. Watering 2L each every 2days still. Weekly microben feed at 5ml per L 25/10/25 - Added 55g of 2 8 10 amendment to each pot and mixed then watered 2L 5ml per L microben Ph6.8 27/10/25 - Watered 2.5L each Ph6.8