I STARTED ON THE DIARY WAY TO EARLY. I HAD TO POP ADDITIONAL SEEDS DUE TO AN ENTIRE PACK NOT GERMINATING. AFTER THAT I EITHER BURNT OR INJURED A COUPLE SEEDS REMOVING A FEW HELMET HEADS. IM FEELING BETTER ABOUT THIS SEASON NOW THOUGH THAT THINGS ARE FINALLY IN THE RIGHT CONDITIONS. IM CONSIDERING POPPING A COUPLE MORE 10TH PLANET JUST IN CASE. WE'LL SEE. 4/20 Happy 420 and Easter to everybody! Checked the girls this morning and at noontime. It was a good idea to switch lights. I'm seeing positive growth under both the duel 1500 lumen cfl's and the 1000 watt l.e.d. with an actual draw of 105 watts. The single 150 hps couldn't go low enough without raising the temp. I may add it layer after transplant in edition to the l.e.d. the plant I had to put a straw on has perked itself up and now has 3 fingered leaves. I'll have to bury up the stem a little on a few after they fill these solo cups. I WATERED everything that was under 20 grams dry weight which was most everything. I'm seeing a dramatic difference thus far. I'm wondering if I should start a couple more 10th planet in case one doesn't make it. The kush seedlings have finally showed a little more advanced growth then the seeds popped later which makes me feel good. It will be interesting to see how these turn out. They are going to be extremely resilient high yielding potent plants that will make it to harvest early. Words have power. 4/21 The lighting switch is working out good. When the plants fill out the solos I'll put the hps back up and use both until they go to their final spits outdoors. I watered everything under the led light which is all pink/special kush. I watered a couple in the aerogarden if the were under 20 grams of dry soil weight. I may have to up the amount of water but I'll be keeping an wye out. Still wanting to pop a couple more 10th planet. I've seen the first 3 fingered leaf. Can't wait for this season. WENT BACK OVER AT 6PM AND EVERYTHING IS LOOKING GOOD. I HAVE THAT ONE PINK KUSH THAT STRETCHED AND I HAD TO PUT A STRAW ON IT IS PICK8NG UP WELL. IM JUST GOING TO HAVE TO BURU IT DEEPER WHEN I GO TO GALLON POTS. IT WAS NICE TODAY AND I GOT A LOT IF SELF CARE DOWN AND HAD SOME OTHER TROUBLES BUT SEEING MY GIRLS GROW UP MAKES ME HAPPY. IM GOING TO USE THE PAR METER AGAIN TOMORROW AND BEGIN CLEANING AND SANITIZING MY GROW AREA. I HAVE A LOT TO DO. 4/22 WATERED EVERYTHING AS IT WAS WITHIN 20 GRAMS DRY WEIGHT. Plants are improving. I'm FINALLY reaching REAL veg with a couple seedlings that have grown their first 3 finger leaves. I'm looking forward to the transplant to 1 gallon. They seem to explode after that. That and the few that stretched can be buried. Now it's time to hurry up and wait. The thing is, now that some have stretched they are growing leaves which makes it top heavy on a ciuplecdue to the elongated stem. Still looks good though. I also rotated the plants to minimize hot spots. 4/23 Things are doing well. I watered everything but two in the back of the aergarden that were still over 20-grams over dry weight and i added soil to the 10th planet cups. Not because they were stretching but just so I can weigh it with the others so I can water properly. I'll check on them later. The oldest seedlings have their first three fingered leaves. I've been shopping around for soil. I think I'll round up all my 1 gal pots and wash them as these will need a transplant in a while. I should check the ppfd again. I also need to ready my outdoor area and sanitize it. Plenty of stuff to do. May still end up popping a couple more 10th planet. Not sure. EDIT: WENT OVER THIS AFTERNOON AND LOCATED ALL MY ONE GALLON POTS (AND A COUPLE OF THOSE SLANTED ONES THAT ARE A LITTLE MORE THAN A GALLON). FPUND THE 3'S TOO BUT IM GOING INTO ONES THEN HOME BABY HOME. AT LEAST THATS THE PLAN. I EMPTIED LAST YEARS GROW BAGS AND BURNED THE LAST OF TEO CANNABIS STALKS. I STILL NEED TO DEEP CLEAN THE CAGE. I JEED TO SPRAY THE PALLETS WITH THAT PESTICIDE THAT KILLS EARWIGS (THE ONES I CANT REPLACE). I ALSO NEED TO GET ALL THE LOOSE SOIL THATS FALKEN OVER THE YEARS AND THE LEAVES OUT OF THE CAGE. LEAF BLOWER AND A RAKE WILL TAKE CARE OF THAT. I HAVE A BRUSH BURNER AND I WAS THINKING ABOUT USING IT BUT THEN REALITY SUNK IN. AT LEAST I GOT SOME WORK DONE. WASHED UP NIDE AND PUT ON HAND SANITIZER TO CHECK ON THE GIRLS. THEY LOOK GREAT TO ME. I QUICKLY SHOT TWO PICS AND BEAT FEET. I SHOULDVE NOT GONE IN AT ALL BUT THAT WAS THE POINT OF ME GOING THERE. TO CHECK IN THE GIRLS. IM SURE THEY'LL BE FINE. 4/24 Had to go back and water. I watered the two in the ag that weren't watered before. Most of the cups under the l.e.d were right on the cusp (220, 218 ect.) I watered a couple and left the others that weighed a tad more and misted the top with a spray bottle so it won't totally dry out. I'll check later but they are growing at a rapid pace now. I'll probably end up watering. I'll probably have to up the volume. I think I'm going to go get a bag of ffof to put in the house and warm up. That way I cam transplant whenever I want. I'll check around for prices. EDIT: Went to the local grow store and bought 3cf of Fox Farm Ocean Forest which will be mixed with the 2cu bag of Happy Frog I already have when I transplant into the 1 gallons pots. I got prices for all the soil so now I just need to figure out how many bags of each I need. I want to get it early so it's still there. I'll be doing my math. Went back over and and as predicted the three cups under the led were "almost" within ten grams of dry weight. They probably could've waited (212, 211, 208) but they are close to breaking the ten grams over dry limit that seems to be doing good for me. I showed my commercial buddy cause he hasn't seem them a while and I could tell he was impressed. I'll take pictures tomorrow. I cleaned the cage a little bit more. My buddy thinks going into 1 gals is the better option than going into 3's. If I have to then it would just be the bigger plants and I have a few gallon and a half ones I'll use for the bigger plants. Still debating whether to pop more seeds and pheno hunt or just go with what I've got. What I've got is looking good. I just don't want to lose any. Might be smart to start a couple extra. 4/25 WATERED EVERYTHING I think. I might think about increasing water volume of water I give at a time. I'll probably stick with whats working since I use the scale anyway. The kush under the l.e.d dries out faster than the cfl. They both are working good and I'm getting some good node development. The earlier plants are actually looking like a pot plant. I may start next week with a weak nutrient solution like ancient amber or the first fox farm one. Worked on some more of the cage. I'm ready to go! 4/26 WATERED EVERYTHING BUT THE BACK ROW OF THE AEROGARDEN WHICH WERE STILL IN RANGE. Plants are getting big. Transplant with the kush might be next week. 10th planet is doing incredible for being so young. Mk Ultra doing good as well. I thought about popping a few more and then pheno hunting but I'll probably stick with what I've got. I'm loving what I'm seeing.

Day 42 - Ladies are growing great, some are growing a little faster than others but all in all very happy with this run so far! Thanks for following & happy growing friends!✌️🏼🌱 Day 43 - All of these ladies expect for 1 white widow & 1 orange sherbet keep having problems, yellowing leaves, rust spots, not sure if it’s me or what the issue is considering 2 of them are doing great😬😬 Day 44 - Watered the ladies today, going to give them some calmag next watering when my new PH meter gets here! Day 47 - Buds are starting to get much bigger on a few of the ladies & a lot more frosty!😍

Hello my friends 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾, Week was good, nice weather, some days too much hot 🔥, but no rain . I've removed several leaved burned by heat, they was all dried. I've given 1.5l per plant, #1 and #2 1x 1.5l water + canazym + sugar royal #3 2× 1.5l water only 1x 1.5l water + canazym + sugar royal PH @6 Harvest is very close ✂️✂️🌲🌲, I had not yet check trychrome, and as usually I'm in late lol... (See videos) I'll start my flush this week, weather would be nice for the last week, under 30*C with nice sun 😎🌞🌞 and low humidity. See you soon for harvest my friends 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾💕 Thanks for likes, comments and follows 😘

This week we only had bad weather and a lot of rain. But according to the weather forecast, it should get better again in the next few days. ☀️☀️☀️

Hi, everybody. Well, that's the long-awaited day of harvest Bubblelicious Auto. First of all, I want to thank all those who supported me during this time, your support gave me a lot, and also gave me the motivation to do better and more beautiful. 👏 You know what I have encountered problems with smell when growing this marijuana strain because of considerations of privacy and personal security, I couldn't give extra days of life to these plants. So I made a harvest for the 70th day of life of these plants, exactly 10 weeks. When I harvested, I had to move the inflorescences to another place to dry. I put their Bank and Packed in several layers of garbage bag and tightly sealed it with sticky tape. When I came home, I dried the inflorescences, and I prefer to separate the inflorescences from the large branches, and the inflorescences themselves slightly pressed to make them easier to store and they do not crumble during transportation. So the inflorescences are obtained dense and hard as a tree, but do not lose their smell and taste, but the inflorescence should be compressed very gently and gently for several days as they dry. In General I'm okay and I'm safe. The final product gives me pleasure, so I think that my risk was justified. Now in my tent matured 3 plantsNeville Haze Auto. I'm not going to stop, I'm planning to keep growing. However, due to force majeure and weather conditions, my idea of guerrilla cannabis cultivation is at risk. So I don't know what's next. But in any case, soon there will be new interesting diaries. Now my friend has 23 plants for the first week. 10 days. we urgently need to relocate them to new homes or to the outdoor. In General, add to the followers, follow my diaries, it will be interesting.

5ª Settimana di Fioritura 💐💐💐💐💐 Siamo tutti entusiasti qui alla CampaCavallo mentre guardiamo la bella RUNTZ 💓🗿 gonfiare i suoi deliziosi fiori! 😍

Was a real pleasure from beginning to end, no problem during all the cycle for a good result for weight but an AMAZING result for taste 😍

I Topped 3 days ago, she got a little bit stress, she could be stressfull if i top earlyer, so i hadnot other way. I think she will give me 50-60 g dry buds... but i am scaryed with this. she is still not flowering. explain me why. almos every GSC auto starts flowering at 5 week

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

Everything going smooth over here. They are growing and filling up the tent like true beasts. As soon as I find a solution, I will transplant these bad girls to a bigger container and give them their own tent. At this point I will also lollypop them and perform LST to fill up the tent. After a week of 'rest' I will flip them to flower. Needs to happen rather sooner than later to be good. Can't wait! PS: things really started picking up when I started using silic rock and added a CO2 bag.

🌱 First week of my cannabis growing adventure with autoflowers! 🌟 As a newbie, I'm diving into the art of low stress training early on because autos have a shorter grow period and I'm curious to see how far I can push the limits. Just experimenting and gathering valuable experience in this rapid growing phase! 📚 ✨ Planted in light mix soil with added worm castings in fabric and plastic pots to compare outcomes. Exciting times ahead! 🚀

Day 127 - Watered/fed today. About 180 oz of water given, with 1/2 tsp Bloom, 1/2 tsp Mag Pro per gallon. It is anticipated that this is the last feed, and will be given water only, the next 2-3 feeds before harvest, to flush/fade the girl (come on autumn colors!). I happened to be searching a couple buds and found my first 3 amber trichs on a calyx. The final countdown has begun! Day 128 - Nothing to note, I was lucky to be around enough to get the photo. Day 129 - I feel like there has been some new calyx development over the last few days, but I am still going with my plan to flush 2-3 times before a harvest. I feel like if I was properly set up, and honestly stocked with current flower, I could probably let this thing go another 3 weeks (rookie grower thoughts), but I am still looking to harvest in 10-12 days. Talking to a few different people, ran a few ideas past me, but I think I am going with my plan for this first grow. Someone mentioned one more big bloom feed before a flush, but I think I'm just ready to be done feeding. The idea of 24 hours of darkness before harvest to 'boost trichs' was brought to me by another person, and I am still unsure of my thoughts on that plan. Day 130 - The 'flush' has begun. Today the plant was given 2 gallons of water, which is almost 50% more than was given with feed, as she had been getting 180oz or so of water. You can really tell the difference in the amount of runoff! Lets see how long she takes to really show a fade. Day 131 - I got nothing for today. Snapped a pic and bolted out of the house. Day 132 - Again, sadly, I got nothing for today. A picture and out the door. Day 133 - 11 weeks of flower are down. She was watered today, with another 2 gallons of water only. I added a small amount of new Mother Earth Coco Peat to the pot, in my mind, just to ensure that she doesn't fade out too quickly. Probably a bit unnecessary and may not help, but I did it anyways :) I originally planned on chopping likely at the end of this weekend, but I might see if she can hold out 2 more water only feeds, and chop next Thurday-Friday, at the end of the 12th week. I keep checking a few buds with the loupe, and still can barely find any amber, but also don't see any clear trichs. Either way, I am going to be anxious for this last week to finish up, then the real test of waiting will come, hanging and curing!

Completely guessing at her actual height at this point because I tied her down and am planning to let her complete her grow like this. I’ve gotten my canopy pretty even. Also top dressed with a little natures organic this week.

Gorilla glue is growing well. Have a few minor issues like the light burn wet spot, and a slight magnesium deficiency I believe. She got heavy training today with lst and defoliation. Just spreading the case out more. The spider Farmer G3000 is on about 25 percent. Very strong light. Everything is moving along. Another 2 weeks, and will be looking for maturity signs and going to flowering around then. Thank you Spider Farmer, and Amsterdam marijuana seeds. 🤜🤛🌱🌱🌱 Www.amsterdammarijuanaseeds.com Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Spider Farmer G300w: https://amzn.to/3S2zvsd Spider Farmer 10X20 Heat Mat Kit - https://amz.fun/lsa0J Spider Farmer Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/spiderfarmer Spider Farmer Official Site: https://spider-farmer.com Discount code: saveurcash (is stackable)

Gente,sono arrivato alla 6 settimana di fioritura,per fortuna sto riuscendo a debellare sto cazzo di ragnetto rosso...e tutti i fiorellini maschi che stavano spuntando...al momento sembra che non stiano più facendo sviluppare,ne nannars ne fiori completi di Maschio......il che è buonissimo 😋...spero riuscire a portare a termine bene la mia terapia, altrimenti mi ritroverò (ma di molto nellaCACCONA...MERDA!!!)..MA no! sono positivo e quasi sicuro che sarà buonissima 😋

Going good, thinned out some. Put a better video on Instagram

I'm like 5 days late with this update so I have had to pin videos that I took the same week while I was communicating with TRYHARD so ignore any dialogue that's out of context they aren't diary logs they are simply correspondence between myself And TRY, oh and sorry about my language I'm common as muck me. The pictures are just random pics I took that week as oppose to my usual more organised method but hey ho I'll do a more tidy job next week. The week went swimmingly barring some nitrogen deff on the lowers which I initially put down to the hot weather drying the pots too quickly and causing nute lockout with the salt buildup so I flushed then gave them a nice feed after they dried the pot at which point I noticed the most heavily afflicted by the N deff were also the quickest drinkers and had lower EC on the runoff so I have been giving them a slightly stronger feed than the others and it seems to have solved everything so I'm happy with that. Bud development is nice, frost is nice, terps are through the roof right now..... Zkittlez ones are really stinking of lime and candy bubblegum Punch ones are stinking berry berry nice! Grandpas Crush is smelling kinda hazey right now but I'm hoping the berries comes out of her too. Little else to report really. Thanks for reading One Love 💚 Fire Farmer🔥👨‍🌾

Ultima limpieza de bajos, y a florecer!! las plantas presentas 3 fenotipos, pero 3-4 características diferentes, algunas no ramifican apenas, algunas mucho y otras lo normal, Las de porte grande y robusto tienen un espacio entre nudos entre 6-7cm, pero sus ramas no cogen un vigor muy alto. luego hay otro fenotipo mas pequeño con espacios entre nudos de 4cm que si tienen gran vigor sus ramas. y otras que son como una mezcla entre las dos.