Week 9 - Day 59 (from seed) Tropicana Cookies Auto by Fast Buds Update: Yesterday I watered her with 5ml Plagron Green Sensation and 6ml of Bud Candy in 2 liters of distilled water. No pH adjustment. This should help push the buds a bit more in this final phase. Plant status: She’s stacking up nicely! Buds are really starting to swell and fill out, especially around the main cola. There’s a heavy coating of trichomes — mostly milky with just a few clears left, no amber yet from what I can see. The sugar leaves have a nice frost to them and the aroma is getting stronger each day — very sweet and fruity. Leaves are mostly healthy, although a few of the older fan leaves are starting to fade, which is expected at this stage. No major signs of deficiency or stress. I think she’s entering her final push. Based on trichome development and overall appearance, I’d estimate maybe 10–14 days left. I’ll likely start the flush in 3-4 days unless I see amber trichomes sooner. Any thoughts or feedback are welcome — feel free to check the trichome pics and let me know what you’d do!

Final week

10/28 - First week in the books. I figured now would be as good a time as any to use a sprouted seed tea because the plants seem to be starting to fully stretch. Pistils are coming slowly but surely. Canopy isn't full but it's still the best I've ever done and I'll take that knowledge into future grows. Exciting weeks ahead. Crazy to think in two weeks it will look more like the finished product than the plants you see before you. I'll take them out for a photo shoot this weekend. The amount times I will be taking them out of the tent will be limited from here-on-out. These plants are getting cumbersome.

Dieser Versuch läuft verdamt gut. Sie wächst relativ schnell und scheint jetzt dichte Buds zu bilden. Was mir nicht so ganz gefällt, sind die unteren Blätter. Es scheint, als wäre sie sehr hungrig. Aber das war die Sorte in den vorherigen Runs auch. Die Blätter Farben sich bei ihr immer ca 2 Wochen vor der Ernte bunt.

I really didn't expect these buds to explode like they did! This Sugar Black Roses looks soooo good and no deficiencies as far as i can tell! The Dyna-Gro and Jacks Classic Citrus mix is great! Got this nute schedule/mix from reading RM3 aka Riddleme's grows and guides/books on forums and his own forum which has his book posted.

She takes a bit of looking after this one needing defols on the reg but the work is well worth it , dripping with resin and tastes like cake .

She's grown 10cm this week!!! Doing well so far.

Love using Grow Diaries and the community of people I have met and chatted with along the way ❤️🇨🇦👊 I’ve “grown” so much over the past year from the advice and journals posted! Thanks Growmie’s! 👊❤️

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme.

I’m in love with this plant! Beautiful huge colas, awesome color, terps are like sour cherry candy and gas it’s ridiculous how good this plant smells! Harvest is gonna be sickkkkkk.

She is B-E-A-UTIFUL, she has a very nice smell to her. Small burns from nut. But plenty bud sites and biggest of the bunch.

01/27/2021 Flowering going well Flowering #2,#3,#6 #6 is a week ahead of#2,#3 will put others in on week 4 for a staggered harvesting 01/30/2022 watered with fungal tea and some aloe mixed in for amino acids and other goodness. Well see how she progresses in 4 days Also working on some banana peel tea to give a boost of potassium if I do next week it should be available for week 6-7. Ps. Fuzzy Mellon (bag seed male) I will pollinate one lucky branch on #6 as she is my favorite. But number 3(tall and lanky one) will get pollination of one branch as well. I can't wait to see how they recombine with fuzzy melon smell mixed with burnt rubber and model glue and pine. #2 no pollination (smaller one) #5 (bonsai) and #8 are males. So 3 female out of 8 seeds. Going to make some feminized seeds next time,so I'll have plenty of female's for a staggard harvest.

We had rain morning Day 1 and the previous night. Early morning Day 2, around 2-3 a.m., we had thunderstorms with strong winds and heavy rain. This was followed by sunshine that afternoon. Despite the 5% rain forecast for day 3, we had a thunderstorm. It produced heavy rain and strong winds. For about a hour in the morning Day 3 and that evening showers. Day 4 was all day sunshine with a lite breeze. That was excellent turn of weather to dry out the soaked soil. Day 5, 6, and 7 we had sunshine and a breeze. I added 2.5 ml of ferrous sulfate per gallon of soil on day 1. I added a second dose of 2.5ml ferrous sulfate per gallon of soil top dressed on day 5 for a total of 5ml/gallon of soil, top dressed for the week. I added 1.3 ml/gallon of soil(10ml) blood meal, top dressing on day 5. I watered on day 6 and 7. The ferrous sulfate really began to work on day 6. On day 7 they had a healthy even green color and are rdy for the stretch to begin flower. These plants surviving and thriving through the challenging spring weather and grower proves how resilient these fastbuds genetics are.

420Fastbuds FBT2314/Week2 Weekly update for these 2. I started seeing some rust spots so I decided to add a little General Hydroponics Calimagic at 0.25tsp/gal to my feed. So far seems to stop. I also decided to start a very light dose of nutes General Hydroponics 3 part flora series at the same 0.25tsp/gal to every other feed to see how they'll respond. All in all Happy Growing.

86 days from seed in soil until chopped. Roughly 40g dry weight. I ended up pressing most of it into Live rosin, however I kept some in flower form to smoke. Personally, I'm not big into the scent or smell of this strain, but it stays true to it's sativa roots and everyone who has tried it has really enjoyed it. I'm not a big fan of this strain, purely based off the fact that my nose doesn't like the smell of this plant. It smells like chicked-peas (the stuff hummus is made from). It's very odd I know. However every one who has smoked it, including myself has enjoyed it. But if I'm picking and choosing, then this one would be near the bottom. I ended up turning a vast majority into live rosin and it is much, much better. Amazing for listening to music and cleaning the house👌

getting bigger each day.