The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Week 1-3 250watt metal halide Week 4-13 250 watt hps 5 gallon living soil in fabric pot Red clover living green mulch Alfalfa sprouted seed tea (seedling stage) Spinach fermented plant juice ( during vegetative) Calcium phosphate from charred bones ( added during transition to flower) Lacto bacillus (once every 4 weeks) Fermented fish amino acids (during early flower) Top dressed with gaia green powerbloom. (Early flower) I decided to top this plant really last minute 10 days in to flower( yeah I know, probably not the best idea) and it didn't even phase this girl at all. What I learned this grow: Some plants smell more than others( by a lot). Use a filter even when venting outside. The Green mulch was nice until I wanted to top dress. Need to find another form of mulch that I can move. Lay off all the additives a bit. Not sure if any of the things I added really did anything but I like to experiment, and she took it well. I will definately be growing this sexy little plant again💚
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Inizio 5 settimana di veg.. ancora una settimana e poi in fiore Oggi 6/2/2025 passato a 12/12
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@Ferenc
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Hey! Just back well They are getting better and better soon need to start to flower them. Fertilization happens 3x a week with the mixture of Biobizz family (Biobloom, Topmax, BioGrow, Epsom salt, Gunokalong extract.) They grow as hell. 600W LED, 18 hours on 6 hours off, 200 ml water per plant a day, humidity approx 35 percent. Day 53: They are bushy keep doing LST on them. Day 56: I constantly do LST for them and also some lollipopping so I removed the bottom unwanted leaves especially the yellow ones. From tomorrow I provide darkness for 2 days and then Monday the beggining of the 9th week I will switch to 12/12.
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Melonade Runtz got harvested 16/11 and I'm planning to let her dry for 14-21 days before trimming and put them in glass+boveda (58%) and grove bags for final cure. Drying conditions are as follows: 16-18°C 55-60% RH
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Day 28: I have started into week 4, and im curious when the first sights of flower begin. i decided today to cut down my bags, because the lower branches didnt had enough space, maybe this is even the reason why they are so bushy. lets see how this is working now, i bet it will be much easier to water them now. i also cutted one leaf, because it had sunburn because of waterdrops i didnt recognized. The smell is getting also stronger, but still couldnt figure out which plant smells so nice. it is a very nice and fruity mixture. i also decided to Stop LST through binding and bending. i will just Scrog it soon, that should do the part. Day 30: I hope the Temperatures wont drop anymore. had a night with 10.6 °C. The Pineapple Express and StrawberryGorilla did not liked this a lot. But Blueberry, Northern Light and Weddingcake seem to be stronger against the cold. I watered them a bit today, and will also stop giving to much fertilizers. maybe i will skip one Week of fertiolizers, and start again when bloom is starting. Day 32: i think i was again not patient enough. I will just keep them watered until they start to bloom. Will install a SCROG net in a few Days. My worries: 1. I think my Pineapple Express and the Strawberry Gorilla really didnt liked the cold Days. There were Temperatures about 10 °C in the nights. The PE seems to be stunned a bit. The others are developing gut actually, but i hope to have warmer climate soon. My happies: The Red Mimosa is still developing great. Also the Northern light is growing pretty good, and they dont show any sign of struggle because of the low temperatures. My biggest is 30 cm (Red Mimosa), the smallest is my pineapple Express, its only 20 cm so far, but still growing bigger somehow.
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Estuvimos un poco desaparecido por andar un poco desmotivado pero aquí vamos nuevamente, las nenas van bastante bien en la semana 8 la cambiamos a maceta de 3.5L y aprovechamos de darle GREAT WHITE SHARK, la técnica que usamos es de amarrar el central ya que le hicimos supper cropping y apical a nuestro central, amarramos el apical que le hicimos super cropping y le dimos fuerza a varios brazos. Para ir controlando la altura de los brazos le hicimos poda a pical a los que estaban tomando más altura y así poder ir equiparando los brazos. La verdad que no se cuantos brazos tengo que sacar y aun me quedan unas 4 semanas para poder desocupar mi armario de floración y poder pasarlas a flora, así que intentaremos hacer una muy buena estructura antes de pasarlas a floración. La defoliación la aplico cada vez que saco foto ósea semanal y trato de ir manteniendo de a 4 nudos o 6 nudos La alimentación se mantiene igual lo que si no se si lo dije pero: Rhizotonic: Lo estoy usando solo en trasplantes y cuando hago alguna poda. Cannazym: Lo estoy usando 1 vez por semana. Orca y Myco Chum: Lo estoy usando 1 vez cada 1-2 semanas Alimentación diaria: Calmag, silicia, supervit y canna coco a+b Alimento a cada una con 250-350 cc de solución, 2 horas que encienden las luces y 2 horas antes de que se apaguen. Gracias a esta receta no eh tenido tanta variedad en mi runoff y las nenas se mantienen muy sanas. Saludos
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Haven’t been keeping up on here but its gucci. Took some clones of the Apple Fritter and Litterbox Biscuit. Not sure if they’re all gonna make it
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Because of the wind some branches were broken. Fixed with bamboos .
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Lollipoped and set for the flowering phase
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Thank you. Gave her a cocktail to help with stress. Added 1st net for lateral support, not so much now, but for later. Blue light is absorbed by photoreceptor proteins called phototropins, which trigger a hormonal response that causes cells on the shaded side to elongate, making the plant bend toward the light. Try and fill this side a little. She is quite big already, just needs to find her stride again after the undue torture. 5 apex stems with 20-30 mini cola, let them develop a little, with the apical dominance shattered, all those 20-30 will all compete with each other as soon as that stretch is initiated. Key to a good stretch is making sure the plant is cycling efficiently, with large ATP conversions occurring lights out. For now, I'm keeping light intensity high. A plant will slow its vertical growth in very high light intensities, leading to a more compact form with thicker stems and leaves. This response is a protective mechanism against light stress, which can damage the photosynthetic apparatus and lead to symptoms like leaf scorching, yellowing, and brittleness. Instead of growing taller, the plant invests its energy into creating a more robust, stress-tolerant structure. Providing plants with necessary antioxidants helps protect the photosynthetic apparatus by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause damage from excess light. UV light exposure can impact the xanthophyll cycle by either enhancing its photoprotective role or causing damage, depending on the intensity and type of UV radiation. UV exposure can trigger the synthesis of more xanthophyll cycle pigments to increase the plant's capacity to dissipate excess energy, but it can also cause direct damage, particularly to Photosystem II, and may lead to a decrease in the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) which indicates a reduced capacity to dissipate excess energy. Plants can respond to UV stress by increasing the synthesis of xanthophyll cycle pigments, such as violaxanthin and zeaxanthin, to improve their photoprotective capacity. UV-induced changes in xanthophyll cycle pigments can be linked to a plant's overall tolerance to high radiation stress. The xanthophyll cycle helps protect against photoinhibition, which is especially important when the plant is exposed to high levels of both UV and visible light. High doses of UV radiation can directly damage photosynthetic components, including the proteins, lipids, and pigments in the thylakoid membranes. Exposure to UV radiation can have a mixed effect on the de-epoxidation state (DEPS ratio) of the xanthophyll cycle pigments. In some cases, UV can inhibit the conversion of violaxanthin to zeaxanthin, resulting in a lower DEPS ratio and a reduced capacity for energy dissipation. However, the total pool of xanthophyll cycle pigments may increase, and this enhanced pool size could provide a greater potential for photoprotection despite a lower DEPS ratio. The xanthophyll cycle works alongside other mechanisms, such as the accumulation of flavonoids (UV screens), to protect the plant from UV-induced damage. Blue light repairs 100% UV-induced damage in plants through a process called photoreactivation, which uses a light-dependent enzyme called photolyase. This enzyme uses energy from blue and UV-A light to directly reverse the damaging pyrimidine dimers in the DNA caused by UV-B radiation, a key mechanism for maintaining the plant's genetic integrity. After carbon, light, water, temperature, and nutrients, the limiting factor of a plant's growth is often its own internal factors or the amount of a key ingredient. Chlorophyll concentration is one such factor, as the amount of this pigment limits how much light can be captured for photosynthesis. Other factors include chloroplast number, respiration rate, and the concentration of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, as plants are often in a CO2-deficient condition. 60x60x18=64800seconds x 700 = 45,360,000moles. 45DLI Exposure to 165 µW/cm² of ultraviolet-B (UV-B) light for 3600 seconds = 1 hour, a extremely high, acute dose triggering stress responses and protective mechanisms. . The plant's photoreceptor protein, UVR8, senses the UV-B radiation. This triggers a signaling cascade that activates specific genes to protect the plant from damage. In response to the UV-B signal, the plant ramps up the biosynthesis of protective compounds like flavonoids, phenolic acids, and anthocyanins. These compounds absorb UV radiation and accumulate in the epidermal layers of leaves to shield inner photosynthetic tissues. The plant may increase leaf thickness or deposit more cuticular wax, creating a physical barrier to the radiation. The plant will produce more enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants to neutralize the reactive oxygen species (ROS) produced by the UV-B radiation. The plant activates enzymes, including photolyases, to repair DNA damage caused by the UV-B. These repair mechanisms are critical for preventing permanent genetic mutations. While protective measures are activated, a high dose delivered over a short period can cause stress that overwhelms the plant's defenses. Photosynthesis is highly sensitive to UV-B. A high dose can inactivate Photosystem II (PSII), damage thylakoid membranes within the chloroplasts, and reduce chlorophyll content, which lowers the plant's overall photosynthetic capacity. Despite repair mechanisms, high UV-B doses can inflict persistent damage on the plant's DNA. The overproduction of reactive oxygen species can cause oxidative stress, leading to the oxidation of lipids and proteins and disrupting cellular function.
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I kept on doing buisness as usual. Thought I would defoliate less, but there are still so many leafs and so many growing. So mid week I got rid of a lot of leafs. The flowers really started going off this week and the plants get more and more sticky. The plants did quite the stretch and I might have to put the ventilation system out of the grow tent next week. The plant in the top right corner was a little more yellowish and had a burnt tips so this week I only gave her water. All plants got water between 6.0 -6.3 to compensate the high run off from last week.
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-------------------------------------------------- Day 8 Water: 50ml RO water Humidifier: 65% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid-Low Light on @ 19:00 (23° celsius @ 76% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (19.5° celsius @ 54% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 9 Water: N/A Humidifier: 70% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid-Low Light on @ 19:00 (22.5° celsius @ 74% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (19° celsius @ ~84% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 10 Water: 50ml RO water Humidifier: 65% (LOW-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid Light on @ 19:00 (22.1° celsius @ ~75% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (19° celsius @ 70% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 11 Water: N/A Humidifier: 65% (LOW-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid Light on @ 19:00 (23.3° celsius @ ~70% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (20.7° celsius @ 66% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 12 Water: N/A Humidifier: 70% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid Light on @ 19:00 (23.4° celsius @ 66% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (19.9° celsius @ 70% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 13 Water: 150ml RO water Humidifier: 65% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid Light on @ 19:00 (22.3° celsius @ 72% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (21.5° celsius @ 67% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 14 Water: N/A Humidifier: 65% (MID-MIST) Fan Speed: Mid Light on @ 19:00 (24.5° celsius @ 63% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22° celsius @ 65% RH) -------------------------------------------------
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@GrowIT
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I am very satisfied with this plant, despite accidents along the way, it has given good results! GG
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@Beedog
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Had to dial back the nuts as the tips of the leafs was yellowing and some clawing to much n I watered with just ph’d water once and once just ph’d water and silicon not as dark green anymore and growth continues started to flower day 26 now on day 30 had a accident to a branch broke off one of the plants it’s still growing well tho
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10 seedlings have popped their heads up out of the soil (or are on their way up!) They are starting in solo cups and only in this tent temporarily. Ultimately they will veg and flower in 8 30-gallon grassroots pots in the 5x9 tent. The 2 left over may be going in earth boxes. TBD.