CannaGrow Fastbuds #2 2024

To be clear: I post the week's info at the end of the week. So I'm writing this a full 8 days after actual germination, and now have seedlings (2"and 3") showing true leaves forming. 1 each: Fastbuds Gorilla Zkittlez Auto, Orange Sherbet Auto seeds, plunked into water 6.5pH (well water amended with calcium carbonate and winemaker's acid blend) with some 3% Hydrogen Peroxide. Soaked only overnight and saw the seeds had split the next day. I planted the seeds 1 knuckle down in a seedling mix I made (by gosh and golly) at approximately 75F-80F. Maintain humidity up 50-70%RH Yes, I labelled them this time!!! The seedling mix consisted of a small amount of Happy Frog mixed with some Black Gold potting mix,a bit more vermiculite and some perlite ... steamed in a colander in my 15 gallon brew kettle. (to eliminate pathogens). THe mix was drained and dried to a "no drip" when compressed by hand. I planted them in homemade cardboard seedling cups. (Note: I've already made bigger ones, and transplanted, albeit prematurely). I don't think the seedlings' roots would penetrate through this cardboard, so next time I'll make cardboard or carbon filter "dividers" to lift straight up, so as not to disturb the plants, but still have control over the watering. The transplant was not great, in that the root ball had not developed so it was easy to screw it up, trying to keep it all together. The Gorilla Zkittles was too high, so I've "coned" additional soil to help support it. A repurposed freezer icemaker fan blows a breeze into the incubator, which is kept at approx. 77F during "day". Spider Farmer light hanging lower now (it was at 24"/50%, but now it is lower as I felt I was needing to combat stretchy legginess). Temp and humidity monitored by a Bluetooth sensor, as well as monitored/controlled by Inkbird. There is a heat mat at the base of the incubator. There is a fish tank air bubbler pump with hose connecting to two small jars of water ... this is sufficient to help keep the humidity around 52%. It raises to 60% approx when I have the damp towel hung over the side of the incubator. Currently also sharing the incubator with other seedlings (kale, lettuce, cabbage) so they can benefit from the warmth and light. Soil temps seem to be fairly stable at 70-72F I turn the light down at night, so mornings and evenings (18/6 cycle) are less intense than midday .. .which I set to approx 65%. I also tun the Inkbird temp controller to 72 (from 77) at night. I have no idea if this helps autos or not. In the meantime I've boiled the infested (fungus gnats) Ocean and Forest soil from my last grow. It's been spread on tables drying over the last week. I'm amending it with all sorts of things, various amounts of the following: Moose poop, vermiculite, perlite, rice hulls, coco coir, Epson salt, Grow Big, Big Bloom, coffee grounds water, biochar (from my wood stove), diatomaceous earth, will be adding in Big Foot Mycorrhyzae Gold, and likely other things? Oh yeah, spent grains from the last beer I made, will be adding some of the trub from that beer when it's done fermenting. I've got an outdated soil test kit and will be using that to analyze my soil, to make sure nothing is too hot, but trying to make sure it's got what the plants need, but no, or very little time-release Nitrogen! Should be interesting, huh? I'll transplant sooner than later, so the roots are not affected (too much). I don't want these girls to know they are being transplanted. The current larger cardboard pots I made have a layered soil: Pure Black Gold potting soil at the top, arranged in a "v" shaped cross section, so the roots will have easy time going through that, gently, then into the surrounding later of less potting soil and some of my new build soil (with minimal nutes added) and finally into yet another layer with straight new soil mix, a slight bit more nutes, mainly the worm castings/bat guano one from Fox Farm. When I transplant they will get the mycorrhyzae as well as another layer of pure potting soil to ease the transition.