Perfect tree + Grateful seeds

Different plants grow different at different times, if u think it's a runt get rid of it not worth the hastle, but just because it planned is smaller, doesn't mean it's a runt. Look smaller leaf size (compared to others of the same strain) slow growth, thin stems, close nodes, and lack a vigor.

High bro! That depends if you are using the bacteria and fungi from BIO tabs or just the tabs. If you are using the full line with bacteria and fungi than the Green Sensation is not neccessary. But if you are just using the tabs than I would recommend to do so! I did use Bio tabs many times with the bacteria and fungi. Great and easy way to start growing organic! And I did use the Plagron line many times on coco. Green sensation is a wonderful product! But it would really not neccessary to use it when having a living eco system in your soil from the bacteria and fungi from the Bio tabs. Enjoy your grow buddy!

Pk is not only for the last few 3 weeks. That's ripening. Nearly 0 N is needed yes. And just pk on mid ripening..generally the last week. I agree with m0use a well rounded Npk feed is fine. When you come into pre flower, if you're using a 3 part nutrient Grow/Bloom/Micro then you stop the grow mid into pre flower and then start on a mid NPK in PKs favour. Grow NPK 24-6-12 That will then need to be lowered to 16-6-12 for ripening. Just lower N and same in the PK. This is where a 3 part nutrient formula will allow you to adjust your NPK like this. Fattening 12-6-12 is a good start and if needed you can then up PK but doubtful.. coming into ripening 6-18-24 and for the last push on ripening you can just give PK if you want. As N is not needed. And if it is, it'll used what's left in the plants growth. Tis y in some ppl grows you see the fade has yellow behind it. That's the plant taking the tiny amount of N needed. It sounds really complex. But, in once you get nutrients. Where you can somewhat control your Npk. By adding Grow or taking it away ml/l wise..how you'd do that with with trio of nutrients. 100ppm of grow and 300ppm of bloom will give you a 1:3 ratio. Then you can add those NPKS of grow and some more math to get a general NPK using liquid nutrients. I use powders from Green House Feeding. And they have Grow, then Hydroponics/short flowering for pre flower and onwards and then they've a PK booster powder you add to the Hydro/Flowering powders and you can control your NPK much more so. Bit of general math and most importantly is all phenos are dif and may require dif levels of NPK at the same stage compared to another grow. So, there really is no perfect NPK set for all plants or when you are meant to give. As again all phenos grow differently..u might have 1 auto that goes through its stages quicker so, there is really no set NPK as plants moving quicker through fattening say will need dif levels of Npk to the same strain of auto beside it, that make sense. As you're growing fems. You have the luxury of much more control of your NPK and when to adjust to bloom. But the theory applies. Once you're into pre flower. You might have some fems that'll be done in 8 or 11 weeks. But, rated 9 weeks for flowering from breeder. A lot depends on the speed your plant pushes thru the phenos stages. And, that'll come down 2ur setup. Such as light spectrum, DLI, substrate, heat/co2 levels and much more. So, going by the speed of how fast said pheno(s) go thru their stages will depend on when to adjust your NPK. So, there really is no time frame that can be given. You can go by stages, pre flower will be over after the plants tops stop growing. So, when the main tops have stopped stretching wait a few more days to make sure the sides have stopped stretching also. Then you're in fattening stage. npk needs to be adjusted to bloom. So, 6-12-18 / 1-3-6 ripening you can keep it on that for a few days but, then I'd start dropping N completely if u can. Or just give low doses of bloom and higher your pure PK nute. Any N needed will then be taken from your plants stores. Tis why when you see some plants that have lovely fade. And yellow behind it. Its a sign the plant dipped into the leaves to get the tiny N needed. It really is an art my pal. On my 4th crop now and I'm still getting my head round it. So, I suggest you just stick with a basic trio and add your extra PK when you come into fattening in the way of bloom boosters r whatever you're using. Just get a few grows under you. Then worry about fine tuning to get that A grade bud. Still can be achieved but, jst get a good bloom nute that can be given in mid pre flower r after. BTW, looking at ur plants. Your PH is slightly off. They're the early signs that ur sub is getting too low of an input ph wise.. Sry for the very complex answer but, its a very hard Q to answer, as I can't, nor can anybody give you npk levels. As only you by seen your plant every day will know its speed thru varies stages, therefore there is no set NPK for a certain week my friend. Feel free to mes me and explain what you're using and so on and I can help some more, r m0use here will be happy to help. There really is so much to NPk when to add and so on. But, I've yet to come across a set thing, as when to add pk. Yes, it tells you when to add at stages. But, that stages NPK needs depend on its speed thru stages. Good luck

So long as your now Ph your water for the rest of the grow you should be fine. I have noticed a few companies say you don't need to ph the water because there products sort out the ph but I would still run the correct ph instead of relying on ph buffers.

Hello friend, 1500PPFD is to much.) If you have vertical space i will rise reflector and bring power up to acceptable level to achieve 800-1000PPFD. This way girls wont stretch too much because they have strong light over them. It consume more energy this way but its worth. Commercial growers always keep their light sky high , LED or HPS desame.

mg/L generally translates to ppm, but that is based on mass which isn't what we need. however, the numbers here are tiny and irrelevant. if you eat a lot of hotdogs, do you think your muscle would taste like hot dogs? same with the plant. it reproduces cells (growth) the same way each time. they are built with the same things each time (with some variation but nothing like what you'd have to percieve to worry as you are). cell walls will still be a similar proportion of cellulose. this is strue because the cells couldn't function properly if they didn't, thereofre the plant would die if it didn't build itself in a consistent way and have proper cell differentiation for different functions that need to be carried out in order to live. so, the key here is that none of these values will cause a problem nor require a majore or even noticeable shift in how you feed the plant. if using hydro nutes, stop using spring water. the whole point of hydro is tight control over nutrients. osmosis water is perfect for this method. don't muddy it up with spring water or rain water etc. these things sound like good ideas, but in the case of rain water is often not. you can keep using the spring water - it will neither be a benefit nor a cost in regard to plant growth, but maybe it makes things easier if the RO is a slow flow or maybe convenience. if in soil / soil nutes then it's less of an issue. probably still better to use RO, but microbes and such help mitigate such things in soil.