Lighting replacement for optic 8+

UPDATE -- the newer FC models by mars are shit. If you cannot verify diode count and that each diode is drive at 0.2watts, give or take a few hundedths, then they are not longer high-end lights. older models on amazon or 3rd party sellers may be better than the current 2024 FC-xxxx models.

I got a set of Medic Grow Lights and I like them, grain of salt though, they where given to me by the company in exchange for diaries but not positive reviews. They do me well, strong and work out well. They are also doing a new round of sponsorship's, maybe email them off their main web page and see what you can find. My contact with them is done and so I am not oweing them anything more but they do make nice lights for cheep.

FYI - i am not a paid shill for any brand or company. I do not accept their free shit for several years, now. The FC series by mars is the only models i'd buy from them. Maybe the FCE series if i looked into the bridgelux chip more to make sure longevity and such is reliable information.

FC4800 will do well. 1368 umol/s (check), good driver, good heat sink, excellent price for a 2.8+ umol/j light. I wouldn't pay for the supplemental lighting options,but more power to you if you want to go that route. the investment (+180 usd) won't justify the minimal return, imho. Anything of this quality under 1 usd per watt is a decent price for a high end light. The math, so you can look at other equipment and compare properly. 16sq ft is roughyl 1.5 m^2. If you grow photoperiods, you want to work backward from 12 hours of operation. In order to reach 35-40DLI you need 800-900 "PPFD" 800 * 1.5 = 1200 900 * 1.5 = 1350 A light that provides 1200-1350 umol/s is what you want. Other aspects to consider are the heat sink, quality of driver, and distirubtion of diodes. the more spread out, relative to 4x4 dimensions, the better off you are. Efficacy is what you pay for. A high efficacy light will be 2.7-2.9 umol/J. specs on lights are not always accurate. A good way to see if they are being honest with any lm301-based LED light is to do some simple division. Watts per diode will inform if they are telling the trueth. Anything in the 0.2-0.25watts per diode means that 50,000 hours of use and efficacy numbers around 2.8umol/J are probably accurate or close enough to reality that it doesn't matter. If you are 100% autoflower grower with no intention to change, you can find a light with 2/3rds the umol/s output. the problem with these lights will be distribution of diodes on a much smaller frame. You can alwys run the FC4800 at 65-70% power for 18hours, too, plus leaves option for photoperiods in the future or use it on autos in a 24 sq ft area - but again, the size and shape of the light is unlikely conducive, which means a higher hangin distnace than normal and more loss of photons to walls and missing plant.

There's a lot of light options out now. I recommend checking out migro on YT, has a ton of par maps for all the major light brands and shows their true efficiency. There's even a specific video covering light options for a 4'x4'.