Wadadli_Kush

@CannaScience, Hey I just posted some pics as an example. The dirty is called Fasarium Wifi punch. Let me know what you think

@Wadadli_Kush, yes, I follow all these rules and have mentioned them in various articles too. Good points

@CannaScience, Yes in some extreme cases depending on the overall health of the plant, environmental factors and also stress factors. In my observations of fasarium at least 75-90% of the time the fungal spread can be minimized or contained this way. To be even more clear I have a plant flowering at this very moment with such an infection and it's currently at week4 of flower. I will post pics in a new diary to showcase this phenomenon. Another key point to note with fasarium is that it favors flowering plants. Probably because of metabolic changes or other indicators within the plant(host) the fungi usually appear from week 1-4 in bloom. It can show its destruction in veg but that only happens two very specific ways. 1. Any scissors or cutting material that has cut an infected plant WILL 100% transfer the fungi to all new plants(very important when trimming or defoliating) 2. The soil used for an infected plant MUST be discarded. Don't even try using tricoderma to use that soil again. You'll have to wait too long for the microbe colonies to take over. This can be extended to all growers that use soils as a grow medium. NEVER REUSE SOIL OR ANY PRO MIX MEDIUMS. You may get away with it once or twice but after that you'll notice your plants mysteriously wilting and dying and by that time it's too late. Prevention is better than cure.

It should be noted that Botrytis first enters your plant and as the conditions become favorable they show signs. Most plants that get bud rot have been attacked by the gray mold weeks before they show signs and sometimes days before if it's severe and the conditions are favorable. With fasarium wilt, from experience, I have dealt with this many times and one simple trick is to leave the affected branch/limb on the plant and DO NOT cut it or remove it period. The disease usually starts in a single branch/limb or on a node close to a branch/limb shoot. The disease has evolved for probably millions of years to detect damage being done to their host. Simple knowledge may tell you its best to cut off that branch but once you cut it off the fungi is triggered to massively extend its reach and it multiplies at extreme rates to attack the host plant before it dies. By simply cutting off a small limb with fasarium the entire plant will be affected in hours or days as the fungi will move from the isolated branch and travel throughout the entire plant and kill it in the blink of an eye. Leaving the branch/limb isolated and untouched will let the fungi concentrate in that specific area and it will be contained in almost all cases during flowering periods (that branch or limb will wilt and dry and die off but it will not move to other areas) The buds on the plants are good to smoke but may or may not pass a microbial test depending on different state laws for commercial and licensed operations.

Good read but a bit misleading. Your right about micro nutrients and maybe aminos and 'IF' you get raw honey you may have some tricantanol in the mix. I've used honey ONLY as a flowering additive and microbial feed BUT I also mix it with raw coconut water and raw fresh pressed cane juice instead of molasses to get the best result. A mix like this basically does the job of what products like Bud Candy, Liquid W8, Humboldt Sweet and Sticky etc. The mixture varies depending on how aggressive you feed your plants and their relative size, grow conditions etc but here in the Caribbean you can get away with doing a complete soil drench probably once a week or micro dosing at about 2-5ml per liter of water for each during your feed cycles. In short the honey thing is kind of correct but we still need measurable results or scientifically backed data showing positive effects as a foliar spray, soil drench or even pests/pathogen deterrent IMO.