Respond very well to heavy training and feeding. It is a very resistant strain, really worth growing for begginers or experience growers. I would recommend it.

Respond very well to heavy training and feeding. It is a very resistant strain, really worth growing for begginers or experience growers. I would recommend it.

Respond very well to heavy training and feeding. It is a very resistant strain, really worth growing for begginers or experience growers. I would recommend it.

Day 85. Because she still had mostly clear and some milky trichomes last week, I decided to continu giving her nutes. Also her official flowering time (vision seeds info) is 8-9 weeks. And since see seems to be a bit slow with everything, I thought it was a good idea to keep nuting her. 5ml/L seems a bit too much though, because I notice more burned leafs. Last week (11) the fan leafs started to get lighter green. Now they are turning yellow and are hanging loosely. Is it benificial too take them of from her at a certain moment? I will check trichomes every other day and will probably will start the flush now, because the trichomescheck today showed some amber colours I didn't noticed earlier. I would love to hear from experienced trichomescheckers if there are indeed the first signs of trichs getting amber or not. Also I still got a lot of clear trichs. My goal is too harvest her when most trichomes are milky and maybe 10 to 20 percent amber. Day 86, nooooooo budrot 🤒🤕😢. Cut off the infected buds. Put vinegar on her cutt wounds. I will keep her indoors with a blowing fan during tbe night and check buds daily. Day 87, This morning I noticed a 3rd cola with a tiny bit off budrot. It was close to another one with budrot I already cut off. I cut this 3rd one also and treated the cutwound with vinegar. I will check regurlarly and probably will harvest too early in these days to prevent the loss of my whole harvest. I am currently drying the healthy parts of the buds I cut off.

Start week 3 , Bio Grow 2 ml/L + Root Juice 2 ml/L + Alg-A-Mic 1 ml/L + Sensizym 1 ml/L + Sensi Cal-Mag Xtra 1 ml/L (Ph 6.3). Lights: 4 x 65W CFL for 3 plants. (1-4 weeks)

Day 85. Because she still had mostly clear and some milky trichomes last week, I decided to continu giving her nutes. Also her official flowering time (vision seeds info) is 8-9 weeks. And since see seems to be a bit slow with everything, I thought it was a good idea to keep nuting her. 5ml/L seems a bit too much though, because I notice more burned leafs. Last week (11) the fan leafs started to get lighter green. Now they are turning yellow and are hanging loosely. Is it benificial too take them of from her at a certain moment? I will check trichomes every other day and will probably will start the flush now, because the trichomescheck today showed some amber colours I didn't noticed earlier. I would love to hear from experienced trichomescheckers if there are indeed the first signs of trichs getting amber or not. Also I still got a lot of clear trichs. My goal is too harvest her when most trichomes are milky and maybe 10 to 20 percent amber. Day 86, nooooooo budrot 🤒🤕😢. Cut off the infected buds. Put vinegar on her cutt wounds. I will keep her indoors with a blowing fan during tbe night and check buds daily. Day 87, This morning I noticed a 3rd cola with a tiny bit off budrot. It was close to another one with budrot I already cut off. I cut this 3rd one also and treated the cutwound with vinegar. I will check regurlarly and probably will harvest too early in these days to prevent the loss of my whole harvest. I am currently drying the healthy parts of the buds I cut off.

Start week 3 , Bio Grow 2 ml/L + Root Juice 2 ml/L + Alg-A-Mic 1 ml/L + Sensizym 1 ml/L + Sensi Cal-Mag Xtra 1 ml/L (Ph 6.3). Lights: 4 x 65W CFL for 3 plants. (1-4 weeks) Royal Critical Automatic prefers a smaller amount of fertilizer for the start. The same level of fertility used in Northern Light Automatic is a little too much for Royal Critical Automatic. I have noticed this through light burns at Royal Critical Automatic.

Week 3 stuff started happening. Following their first real feeding, growth was fairly explosive. Plants still seem short, no stretch, but 5 finger leaves are appearing on almost all of them on the 19th. Yesterday, the 18th, I opened the tent and was greeted by the faint, but definite smell of a light lemon scent. There was no mistaking it the next time I opened the tents; they are starting to smell. Coco still seems moist from sunday's feeding today on Wednesday, even the top, so wet dry cycle will continue. The plants got the full additive line as well (1/2 strength). In addition to the Photosynthesis Plus, Sm-90, Drip Clean, Roots Excelerator, and CalMagic, we have started using additives according to GH's "Expert Program" because I am an expert. 😇 I claim no such thing, I am lucky. If it is working, I am likely to keep doing so and maybe start to overclock it a bit, maximize potential. Actually, I originally was not going to use the expert stuff, but I kept reading people with colas the size of whiffle ball bats posting how the additives really took their grows to the next level, so I decided not to waste time and to jump right in the deep end. And deep it is, as after mixing 15 individual gallons of 13 different nutes & additives (if you count PH down as an additive, and I do although I may switch to white vinegar), I realized exactly how big an undertaking this is going to be. I do look forward to being able to tweak the recipe as I get experience; that seems like an amazing long term benefit. Anyway, we have added, at half strength, Floralicious Plus (perhaps why they started to smell 2 days later), Armor SI, and FloraBlend from GH. We have also added Xnutrients Ful-Potential at half strength. And honestly, I was expecting to have to triage a plant or 2 for Nute burn, but nope; they looked at me like they were daring me to give them more. I think I am going to give them a full schedule of early veg GH nutes next feeding, and potentially full strength additives too. I will likely keep additives on half if I go to full nutes to better diagnose bad reactions. If they eat the full nutes and beg for more, we will do full additives next feeding. If they love that, move onto late veg nutes maybe. I am not sure when to transition to late veg nute schedule, if anyone knows the correct indicators on autos, please comment and let me know. Thanks. One of the problems with my grow is that I stuffed the plants in the tent without any kind of symmetry, thinking they all wouldn't germ, or all be females, or not survive, backup plan hoping that the spread of the light would be sufficient. My Seemango does not like this plan, and as one of the plants off to a side, started to lean over quite a bit into a more central location. That did not work out so well for her. On monday, 1 day after the 1st big feeding, I came into the tent and my Seemango was laying down. Her leaves were still awesome looking, but she was totally laying down. I explained to her that she was an autoflower, and that she didn't have time to lay around, and that she needed to get up, and get back to work. I gently encouraged her by making a splint out of a twist tie and she seemed to appreciate it (and looked better by Wednesday morning). Now I am REALLY glad I decided to grab some Armor SI and I hope she uses some of it to make that stem a little thicker, not too thick too quick, because: It's time to start thinking about training, both mine and the plants, as far as LST! Not sure if they are tall enough. I raised the light about an inch and a half lTuesday night, they seemed to respond. might go up further and see if that helps Seemango too. I like this site. I looked at the feeding graphs after I plugged my own numbers in and duh, i SEE why they started GROWING after I gave them that feeding during week 3. Note to self, perhaps start FloraGro a week earlier next time. And to think, I almost didn't bother to plug my own numbers in. What a wonderful feature to include, graphing the nutes, and already proving this place superior to forums. Thanks growdiaries. So I think my sluggish growth is related to VPD There are some minor leaf twisting on a couple plant. I don't think it will damage them as there is no color issues and the time lapse clearly shows them growing, but unless I can figure out how to deal with this problem, it is going to limit my yields. I will post some specif pics shortly. I am going to sleep on this. I never even heard of VPD and I thought I was very well researched on potential problems. Since I live in a hot, DRY area, I specifically researched problems I might have and was preemptive with a humidifier. I thought that this would be a good thing eventually as it will prevent certain problems during flower, but this VPD issue threatens veg. I though 60% RH was great, but the VPD formula has broadsided me. I will take a couple pics to help others know what this looks like. In every other way the plants look great, so I know it won't kill my grow. But it has now become a limiting factor and time to veg might be running low. With an auto, its her decision to make when to put out, so there may not be much I CAN actually do due to the time constraints. Better the autos than the Durban, tho. Pics of leaf bending are up, but I may have been more dire than I needed to. It is fairly isolated on the plants. Summer looks to be much more mild aside from a couple challenging weeks, and the temps are measured via lasers on the underside of the leaf. when doing so (i am not sure why i actually had said laser besides it being cool when i bought it), the numbers were in a more realistic place. I likely will not be able to control vpd in the short term 24 hours a day, but i don't think it is as bad as i did last night I also noticed the stems were getting woody besides being short, so i just got over it and did an LST spike to bend the plants, well, all except the Seemango as she already tried to lay down. Seriously tho, she has recovered well and might be a candidate in a few days if she keeps up the pace. I will be monitoring the girls for stress today from the lst but they really feel healthy, so i am not too worried. time lapse will be effected for sure. i hope i did it right. pics later after they perk up a bit to close out week 3 as we celebrate their 3rd week birthday and the beginning of week 4. Well, about 8 hours after the LST the plants are sticking straight up again. I am not sure I got that auxin action happening, plus the anchor for the LST is the Coco which wont hold during watering. They arent ready for feeding yet (still heavy), so I might get a little benefit on long term a stem bend. I ordered some clips for the fabric bag to perhaps help. I am assuming since the internode spacing is so short, I might have to LST single branches for any effect. We shall see, it is a learning experience for sure. I did raise the lights last night before lights out to about 21 inches (suggested 18) to encourage some stretch, but I don't see it. I hope I didn't sabotagee myself moving the lights away. I also see some slight calcium deficiency in the Kush and Speed Bud #2. I will likely feed tomorrow even though the bags still feel somewhat weighty, but I am going to do a full or somewhat larger dose of CalMAgic. The 10 gallon mixing bucket has arrived, and even though the new measuring cup for the larger volume won't be in until the weekend, it should still be easier and more efficient feeding. I guess this wraps week 3 up. see you on week 4

Day 85. Because she still had mostly clear and some milky trichomes last week, I decided to continu giving her nutes. Also her official flowering time (vision seeds info) is 8-9 weeks. And since see seems to be a bit slow with everything, I thought it was a good idea to keep nuting her. 5ml/L seems a bit too much though, because I notice more burned leafs. Last week (11) the fan leafs started to get lighter green. Now they are turning yellow and are hanging loosely. Is it benificial too take them of from her at a certain moment? I will check trichomes every other day and will probably will start the flush now, because the trichomescheck today showed some amber colours I didn't noticed earlier. I would love to hear from experienced trichomescheckers if there are indeed the first signs of trichs getting amber or not. Also I still got a lot of clear trichs. My goal is too harvest her when most trichomes are milky and maybe 10 to 20 percent amber. Day 86, nooooooo budrot 🤒🤕😢. Cut off the infected buds. Put vinegar on her cutt wounds. I will keep her indoors with a blowing fan during tbe night and check buds daily. Day 87, This morning I noticed a 3rd cola with a tiny bit off budrot. It was close to another one with budrot I already cut off. I cut this 3rd one also and treated the cutwound with vinegar. I will check regurlarly and probably will harvest too early in these days to prevent the loss of my whole harvest. I am currently drying the healthy parts of the buds I cut off.

The flowering is start😁😁😁 G14 is much higher than amnesia xxl, but both have flowers. I change the light period on 18/6😃

We're getting there, lots of milky trichomes and no amber yet. She'll probably be done within 10 days. :) ----- Still drinking about 1/4 bucket a day! Some amber trichs starting to appear here and there. ------ Started flushing her last night! :)

Following The Grow Boss tips on YouTube "...yield is based on light, quality is based on growers talent" "...number one problem is, too much light, too much water, too many nutrients" Nutrients : (after having issues with nut burns, I decided to use Grow Boss's perfect ppm calculator) Invasion T (Glomus intraradices BEG72 and TRICHODERMA atrovide MUCL45632) 1g / plant Monster X mycorhizes (500 000 propaguls / Kg , made in vitro) 2g / 20cl then complete to make 1l Humic Fulvic Booster (humic and fulvic acids) 1ml / 1l Cannazym 2.5ml / 1l Rhizoponics 0.4ml/1l Lights: 2 x Adjust-A-Wings Avenger 600w HPS Lumatek 90000 Lumens 1000PAR 600w HPS Philips Son-t Green Power 95000 Lumens Soil:Platinium Royal Mix premium quality What is vapor pressure deficit? Often, marijuana growers who have their plants in indoor grow tents or rooms with artificial lighting, take into account parameters such as temperature and relative humidity to maximize plants growth and bloom, thus obtaining abundant harvest with top quality flowers. As we will see later, these factors affect different processes of the plant, such as transpiration or nutrient uptake. However, we usually forget about another important factor that is related to the aforementioned ones: vapor pressure deficit or VPD. Broadly speaking, VPD is the difference between the amount of water vapor that the atmosphere is able to retain (which depends on temperature) and the amount of water vapor contained in it (relative humidity). It is usually measured in kilopascals (kPa). Providing our plants with a correct relationship between temperature and relative moisture will keep us on the right VPD parameters, increasing the plant’s activity and thus improving its growth and showing its full potential during the flowering phase. The ideal would be to adjust both parameters (temperature and humidity) to get the best possible VPD value, so that the development of plants will be amazing.In the chart above you can see the right temperature and moisture values to maximize the development of cannabis plants. The green zone shows you optimal values of VPD, in which it would be ideal to maintain the environment. The orange zone shows correct values, in which plants should not have problems to develop normally. However, red areas show values in which your plants will be very far from hit their full potential, since the relation between temperature and moisture is not optimal. With relatively high values of VPD (between 5 and 12) plants tend to open their stomata and release a considerable amount of water vapor into the environment (increasing their transpiration). This increase in transpiration results in an increase in the plant’s photosynthetic activity, which will need more nutrients and will improve its overall growth, both during growth and bloom. The best range is between 7.5 and 10.5, which we have marked in green. However, we must be careful that VPD is not too high (dark red zone) since the plant would close its stomata to avoid releasing too much water vapor to the environment, which would result in fast dehydration due to excessive transpiration. On the other hand, if VPD is too low (light red zone), the plant will also close its stomata for not releasing more water into the atmosphere, which in this case would be already saturated (it would have reached the maximum water retention capacity in a specific temperature). In this way, reducing transpiration will also reduce photosynthesis, which has a direct impact on the plant’s development and yield. That way, VPD is essential when it comes to offer the best conditions for the development of plants, also to understand its water requirements according to the nutrients used and thus adjust them correctly to meet the grower’s expectations. N/B: SAY NO TO DRUGS -[Day 90] The plants are getting massive, not a lot of space left in the room, each pictures are token back against the wall or on top of a chair. The Super Skunk shall be ready first , the trichomes are visible without using a microscope, the scent is like an amazing candy floss coated with Skunk pee 😅Boerejongens quality @Home 😊 -[Day 93] Switching Buld Lumatek 90000 Lumens 1000PAR to SuperPlant Super Red 85000 Lumens 2000K 1498nm Lightening under the 1500nm wavelength (2000K) just between the NIR and the Microwave length, can't stand in the room too long without getting tears and shining eyes. Buds shall start to blowup like pineapples, increasing yield. -[Day 98] Everything is getting frosty. Starting to decrease RH . -[Day 103] Today the Y Griega started to push on her terpenes, believe it or not that plant smell stronger than the 6 giants Skunks (the Skunk strain is already a very strong smelling plant), she smell like a coffeeshop front door, the fragrance is absolutely amazing and fantastic, I will definitely grow a full crop of that strain ! -[Day 105] 42 days of Blooming folks ! It's getting serious now 😄 If it can helps you to realize, each plants gots 4 side and a middle, each sides gots 4-6 buds and there's 5-6 buds in the middle, there's 11 plants of 1,60m/5.25ft, how many buds does it makes ?? The correct answer will win 1 like 😅😂😅😂

Just started flowering. I am still having the ph problem where it shoots up to about 6.5 by the next day and I believe that's whats causing the brown spots. either way im just going to keep going and see what happens. I'm not really sure why the ph keeps rising that fast though.

Coming along well, they are starting to bush out a lot more. The stretch has slowed down a little as the flowers are starting to form. Both the fimmed and topped girls are healthy and growing well, I do say the topped girl is very nice looking with the double top.

I made a terrible mistake last week lowering the ph too much, causing some nutrient lockout. I have sorted the problem now, the plants however have suffered greatly. I will not be expecting a good yield. Let's hope they still have a chance over the next week or two. Thanks✌️🏻

Week 8 is approaching then I'm kicking them out to get fimiliar with nature. For another 8 weeks of flower. This has been a great veg with a surprising fast in stretch of these strains.

so i got three beans sent to me of their new BDM strain, kindly sent to me by @FAST_BUDS , i popped them into the cubes stuck them under the light and here we go, I have seen some wicked results from to other growers on here, and im keen to find out , how they can improve on their amazing autos, so far and im willing to admit this if i find another to even compare, i have not seen an auto from any other seed bank perform like the ones from Fast Buds. I have at least 40 conversations with people on here that ask me how do i do so well, choose the seed wisely, so they maybe a bit more expensive, like £10 for 5 seeds more, put that into perspective,that 1g of weed, use your head, and stop buying unless you have SEEN the results, mephisto seeds are a connaisseur choice with great flavours but the yield is less,dinafem have a few cracking critical 2.0 and moby dick , but for all round performance, it has to be Fast Buds. PS adding RHIZOTONIC to water will INCREASE your PH - i forgot this and burnt a tip a little.

Being this is my first grow I'm learning as I go. I've been hearing and seeing others go into Flower was curious if anyone had some advice for me. Should I start putting bloom into my plant at feedings or wait until I see that it's in flower?