Auto Zkittles OG And Auto Bubble Gum LST

Plant has sprouted lovely. Previous member highlighted the grow conditions such as humidity, added wind stress by a fan which are all needed to get strong plants but because you are growing in coco and these are autos they're a few other things to keep an eye on. Light distance - depending on how powerful they are try to keep it around 24 inches and drop it down to about 18 inches after another week or 2 of growth Autos develop a much bigger rooting system faster than even photo period plants. Now is a great time to add microbes to the grow medium. They are many brands and all give good results in the veg stage................stay away from any products that use humid acids in the flowering stage through. Nutrients - coco naturally locks in more 'P' and makes it less available for the plants so you will want to buy a nutrient line specifically for coco to avoid any nutrient deficien ies later on in the plants life. Lastly. This is my own testimonial. Cannabis plants are very resilient and very greedy. I start feeding my plants from the first day they sprout if I have not used super soil or added ammendment to their grow medium. Start off with like 10% the recommended dosage, then about 25% once she is doing ok and after the plant is about 1.5 to 2 weeks old you can start feeding them at full strength.

Coco has no nutrients that come with it, so you want to start feeding now. The seed can power itself the first 7-10 days or so, but it's also safe to give a 1EC charge to it from day one. You fertilize every single time in a soilless grow at 1.3-1.5EC with minimal 10% runoff. The runoff waste ensures the substrate maintains a healthy equilibrium... no buildup of nutes, steady pH etc etc. Wait for top layer to begin to change color, and that's usually a good time to fertilize again. Feel the weight at this point and if you use weight as your trigger to water, it'll be the same volume of water per pot, give or take. Can also try frequent irrigation if you have good mix of perlite (30% in coco or more). I'd got some grows in before trying anything too fancy though. Keep it simple. Form a baseline. Then, when you try something new you can more easily determine if it actualyl did anything. some manufacturers give good instructions, some do not.. hopefully biobizz gives someinfo on resulting EC or you can calculate it using an online nutrient ppm calculator on manic botanix web site. not sure if same products but this forum posts claims to have a 1mL/L EC of some biobizz products worked out... always better to do the math yourself, but .. https://www.icmag.com/threads/biobizz-ec-values.179743/ you can simply type things in from guaranteed analysis lables into the online calculator.. 500ppm is 1ec. 650-750ppm (on hanna 500 scale) is what you want to shoot for. @ 6pH give or take 1-2 tenths of a pH. N/P/K 120-140 45-60 180-210 The following depends in part on the water used.. RO or non-hard water. i have very hard water and need less Ca, for example. Ca / Mg / S 100+ 85+ 100+ while you don't have to always know this type of detail.. paying attention to it as you learn will hasten the learning curve.. any symptoms will be further reinforced by the data and you makemor confident adjustments. Just knowing the gist of it helps after that.. familiarity will fill in gaps.

They seem fine but it's a bit difficult to tell precisely with that lighting - 1ml of grow however is relatively high especially so early on, for reference I start with 0.5ml and never go higher than 1.5ml for autos. I would expect them to be slightly bigger by day 13, so I would consider adjusting the lights, maybe they could be a little closer or if they're dimmed, turn them up a bit? Excessive nitrogen can also slow the growth so that's also something to consider, especially as they show a bit of a claw.

Well, first of all, unless you're an experienced gardener, I wouldn't top her at all. Autos can react very badly to stressful techniques and topping is probably the most stressful of all.... Stick to LST with an auto - when she has about 4 nodes, just bend her over gently so the light is hitting all the nodes... I personally don't do any LST until about week 3 of the plants life... and then all I do is to bend the branches to about 90-degrees from the stem and hold them in place... this gets the buds out to the light and creates more of a Christmas tree shape... I also use plastic LST clips to do this - they're fairly cheap and work wonderfully as long as you're working with a very pliable branch. Then again, there's nothing that says you have to do anything - you can just let her grow the way she's going to grow... but your harvest won't be as large as those lower buds won't get the light they need to really do well... but it's still not "wrong" ... Good luck!

Everything looks ok to me... but I would water farther out from the plant. Doing this will encourage the roots to grow which will result in more growth up top... You could also try using something like General Hydroponics Rapid Start which will boost the growth of the roots.. Good luck!

You are growing in coco, and not maintaining coco properly. I grow in coco, and I tried to explain how to solve your issue once already. You took the soil answer because it involved less work. It's not about amount of work. It is the substrate. Coco is Hydro in a potter. Look at any of my autoflowers in last year not in DWC. They were all coco grows. I am not gonna waste any more time typing since you don't really want the answer to your issue. If you do you can dm me after you select my answer. Little advice follow those whole been down the path your on. Not those guessing.

Hey Growmie, I would suggest getting a fan circulating with some wind being pushed at them. The constant movement of the stem from the air will force it to get stronger to be be able to handle it, you’ll have thicker stems in no time! You can also try wiggling and pinching the stem between your fingers, small amounts of stress will force the branches to get stronger as well. Happy Gardening 🇨🇦👊❤️

I'll say somethign that you will completely ignore because it's more about trying something new at this stage for you, lol, and that's a powerful motivator. You do it when it is useful. This plant is a bit too small to start. Unless you want a near-manifold type structure underneath, but then that borderlines on more than just LST. Usually i want more than just some mostly undeveloped axillary buds before i bend it over. If height is an ultimate concern, you'll want to bend it over before it becomes rigid/woody. Anyting below the bend is better off if you just cut it off. Rigidity doesn't happen overnight, you'll feel when it starts to stiffen.. wow, this is wose than listening to pro sports announcers talking about penetration and shit, eh? Anyway, if height is a major concern, you want to start it growing horizontally earlier and put in a littl emore effort controlling dominance of the early growth so that your apical meristem (primary trunk) contines to elongate to a proper size to fill its area. More likely to stall it if you do it with a young plant. More extreme LST can cause some initially odd leaf growth or stall the plant in extreme cases, but more often it just looks like it slowed down but is really redistributing majority of resoureces from one growth tip to many. can either bend them down between the axial growth or favor one side and prune off any downward facing growth. After that it's just udnerstanding cause and effect of apical dominance.. simply - the higest growth node will take the majority of resources. If one starts to out gain others, temporarily bend or tie it down until others catch up. this is also why i say anything below the first bend will be near impossible to grow good bud on in comparison to branches growing from above the intitial bend. Sometimes topping is useful too. It'll initially slow down that particular branch for a few days, and if you need to fill a bit more space in that area, kills 2 birds with one stone... mix n match when it works well. The vascular tissue (stems and stuff) running to buds is better evenly distributed. you don't want to top 1 branch 6 times and the rest none and expect the 12 tops to be equivalent to those that have a primare connection to the main trunk. sometimes it's just convenient to split an extra time, but don't go bonkers topping any one primary/secondary branch more so than others. Many of these techniques are more about why you do them than doing them to increase yield. Though anything that organizes and distributes things evenly will likely increase yield, you still have to consider any extra time and costs while doing so. Sometiems it's not about yield... height was mentioned.. maybe, you just want a greater proportion of better quality nugs by maximizing those areas of canopy and sacrificing elsewhere. so, it's hard to be militant about any of this stuff... if you see a reason to do it... do it. do it for fun early, but don't do it just to do it after the scrappy-doo period wears off. It is still beneficial to learn early even if not 100% necessary to do any particular technique.

Looking a lot better then last time. Lots of growth. Don't be afraid to lst them to increase your yield, plus keeps plants lower for indoors.

Yes looks great👍

Yes just keep the plant growing horizontally best you can till it goes to flowering. As side branches get bigger you can lst them as well.

All you had to do was dim it or raise it higher. If not dimmable then distance to reduce intensity is only way to solve it.

Looks like your light could be too high but you put 30cm which is fine. Keep doing the LST and should be fine but check the light just in case😊 Get free APP to measure LED Lux ( https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.doggoapps.luxlight&hl=en_GB&gl=US&pli=1 ) Light • Clone and seedling stage: 5,000–7,000 lux • Vegetative stage: 15,000–50,000 lux • Flowering stage: 45,000–65,000 lux