Auto Lemon - Cdaddy

I grow nothing but autoflowers... and they don't like high stress - not topping, not fimming, not super-cropping, not transplanting... they want to go into the soil or hydro and do their thing... so LST is the ONLY technique you should consider with them. While some people have successfully done higher stress techniques with them, I'm convinced they were all basically lucky. The danger is that they will not have time to recover from the stress before they're wanting/needing to move on to a new stage of growth - and if they can't recover, their progress is cut off for them. If you top them, for example, too close to the time they're wanting/needing to go into pre-flower, they may never set their buds. The problem is that you don't know precisely when your auto is going to do what... some autos go into pre-flower in week 3... others might not do that until week 6... if they could talk to you and TELL you what their schedule is, then maybe you'd have a shot at success... but they're plants. Stick to LST! You can scrog if you want... you can sog if you want... but no topping, no fimming, no super-cropping... Good luck!

The yellowing tips are a sign that they're getting too many nutes - that's a slight nute burn you're seeing... and an excellent example of why you start an auto off with 1/4-12 strength nutes when you first introduce them. She's not liking them very much so I would give her plain pH'd water for the next week and then try to introduce the nutes again. She's a strong looking lady and I don't think you're going to have much of a problem with her! Be aware that she might be going into pre-flower within the next 2 weeks so when you give her nutes again, you can also add a small amount of bloom nutes to help her along setting bud sites... You wondered about LST .. I'm thinking you should definitely try it since she looks like she's going to be very bushy, very leafy ... you're going to want to help her get light to the bud sites... Good luck - looks great!

it's not about personal preference... either the light is weak and needs extra hours per day to match stronger lights or it does not.... giving more light than it can handle is just throwing electricity away for an e-peen that does nothing. DLI is an apples to apples metric measuing how many photons of light provided to the plant per day... google for more information on that. This will only be for autoflowers... any switch to photos needs to redo math for 12/12 cycle, then work backward from there as far as how much area you can cover and how much you'll need to dim in vege -- hint, proporitonal to hours of use difference. E.G. If going from 20h to 12 h, it needs 166% more light when you reduce hours per day. 18 -> 12 is 150% ..you can see this is proportional and assumes you maintain the same distance from canopy, because that should be based on optimal coverage of a preordained size of area anyway. 250w custom... lm301-based LED? Probably somwhere between 625umol/s and 725umol/s produced depending on efficacy. if around 0.25w/diode you can probably go as low as 22-25w per sq ft of coverage on an 18/6 schedule. Geometry should dictate height from canopy to cover a specific area in an optimal way. The harder you run those diodes, the less efficient they are, therefor will need more watts per sq ft. The bin of your diode causes a 10-15% swing in efficacy too. top bin and runing at 0.25w per diode and you can go as low as 22w per sq ft. 250 / 22 = max coverage while maintaining max DLI in 18/6 is 11.36 sq ft. Less efficient and you need to assume it covers less space accordingly. If you have more accurate info on umol/s produced by your diy light, you can very easily calculate the DLI you provide... if it exceeds 40 by any significant amount you will need to dim or raise the light in order to avoid burning plant.. .you coudl also run it fewer hours per day and save watts too... all 3 options have various pros/cons. Now, that's all relative to "max DLi' under ambient co2 conditions... = 35-40 DLI. You can go as low as 22 DLI and still produce somethign that resembles good buds. At some point it just gets larfy. Maybe 90% of max provides best yield per sq ft and time invest? nobody can say for sure without an immense amount of resesarch with very large sample sizes of diverse strains etc etc... so, no point in assuming things, but somewhere near top range is almost assuredly better than lower range, obviously... light powers growth... diminishing returns are seed when you boost co2 to 1300-1500ppm and try to give 60-65 DLI... as you add more you get less in return up in those ranges compared to ranges associated with ambient CO2 where you should be pretty confident that the relative max is your best bang for the buck. understand this stuff and you can avoid stunting your plants... you can be confident you are giving ruoghly as much as you can... only a smallamount of fine-tuning from observing plant and reacting will be necessary to dial it in further.. these are good starting points that will require very little effort to dial it in. figure out what your light provides... convert to PPFD, reference DLI table to choose a smart light schedule relative to intensity of light and not just picking "20" because it's bigger.. .lol.

The chance of the pebbles affecting the PH is low unless they are all limestone. I also don't think this is a PH issue. Don't get my wrong your PH could be tweaked a bit but its not outrageous. I think your plants are being under or over watered as they look almost the same, the trick and checking the stems that connect the leaf to the plant. Limp Leaves + Limp Stems = Underwatered Limp Leaves + STIFF Stems = Overwatered After we figure out this little bit lets try some other problem solving. FYI: We will not be notified of any reply or tag [@] in the questions part of the website, if you need to reach out with other information use your DM "direct mailbox" in the bottom right hand corner of the page. it looks like a little paper airplane icon. Best Of Luck!

I've gone back through both your diary and the questions you asked and the answers you were given/advice you took - and nowhere was there ever a mention of flushing this poor lady. Stop! You've now stripped her soil of any nutes she had but DON'T water her again to give her those nutes - not yet!! You've got to let her dry out completely - that might take more than a day or two ... wait until when you pick up the pot, you feel no weight whatsoever in that pot... no hint of weight... (you might see her leaves start to perk up - in fact, I'm betting on it!). At that point you can give her some nutes ... but give her ONLY 1/2 the Base A and the same amount of Part B as you had been giving her... nothing else - no root stuff, no silica, no calmag, and certainly no N-primer. Then again WAIT until she's completely dry and give her some pH'd water... here you want to have some runoff... actually, the best way for you to water at this point is from the bottom - let her sit in some pH'd water until she's done soaking it up - you may have to keep adding water to whatever container you have under her but when she STOPS soaking it up, throw it away as you don't want her sitting in water all the time. Going forward, keep the Base A at 1/2 strength and ditch the N-primer and the root stuff. You can increase the Base B if she looks like she needs something more - and, if necessary, you can use some calmag but no more than once a week. Feel free to DM me any time... we'll get this lady back on her feet! Good luck!

No, there's no foxtailing here... foxtailing is an abnormal growth of the buds themselves, not the leaves... This looks perfectly scrumptious! Nice job!

First, you want somewhere to hang them that is completely dark. Second, you need to try to maintain temps of 60F and a humidity of 60%. You also need to have a fan blowing gently in the space but not directly at the buds... the air should be moving AROUND them. I also try not to have the buds touching each other but sometimes that's just a bit impossible! If you can even get close to these conditions, you should have a nice, long, slow dry time which is what we all aim for! Good luck!!