1xCC-COCO-COBs

Alright! Well it’s another start of some fastbuds seeds ! I’ve been running their genetics and I like them a lot. I had one seed in a different journal not germinate , so I decided to add these to garden as well. More the merrier, right? I don’t think you can have too much cannabis! I’m excited to grow this strain again as the last run I did of it in soil turned out really nice. It was a smooth , chocolate scented weed .. I loved it! I’m hoping to get another set of nice nugs to enjoy of these ladies in the next two Months ! I will also include some tutorials with this Journal! Thanks ! :) -TheWeedMan Description Some things just go together. Think cheese and wine or pizza and beer, and, of course, cookies and cream, the namesake for this richly flavored strain for sale from Fast Buds at an amazing price. Our Cream Cookies strain combines the mellow uplift and genetics of our mega-hit Girl Scout Cookies Autoflower with a smooth and creamy sativa uplift. It's a unique indica dominant hybrid with enough pep to smoke any time of the day. The plant itself is just as versatile. We've seen massive harvests from Cream Cookies seeds with all kinds of growing mediums and light setups. A little bit of attention, good nutes, and light is all it takes to reap the rewards of this one of a kind cannabis strain. Taste and Aroma Our Cream Cookies strain is characterized by its creamy, full-bodied flavor with earthy, woody, and pungent notes that can dominate the back-end of the smoke. It's not dissimilar from a biscotti cookie dipped into a full-bodied coffee with fresh cream. As if that wasn't mouth-watering enough, hints of citrus and herbs come through from time to time, making each toke a slightly different experience. The High Effect Cream Cookies is one of our most versatile hybrids, able to relax the smoker without putting him or her to sleep. Its high-THC, low-CBD flowers grant a cerebral yet giddy lift before smoothly sliding into a relaxing indica body buzz with a delightful stimulation of the appetite. A toke or two will keep you going throughout the day, but be careful not to overdo it (until nighttime at least), the more you smoke, the more indica-like effects dominate the experience. It’s the perfect high to share with others, the kind of weed meant to smoke with friends and a few drinks, or with someone close on a beautiful beach or mountaintop. How it grows Cream Cookies seeds produce plants that reach full maturity in eight to eleven weeks. Plants grow big and bushy with massive green buds coated in frosty white crystals whether grown indoor or outdoor. Don’t forget to flush well to ensure your Cream Cookies yield has the best flavor. Flushing will also bring out beautiful red, yellow, and purple colors, unlike any other plant you’ve ever seen. CC is one hungry beast, so don't skimp on the nutes and water. Combine healthy nutrition with some LST, and some defoliation, and you'll see positively massive yields of this amazing anytime strain.

Alrighty then.. it’s week 2! These ladies are poppin off under the COBs, it seems like pretty quick growth so far compared to my last run of CC. I’m not sure if it’s the lights or the coco .. maybe it both but it seems to be working great! The plants are lush green and healthy - they’ve gotten some nice growth on them for seedlings. I’ve worked on refining my nutrient feeding schedule and I think I’ve got it almost dialed in now. The plants seem to be doing better than the last time, no nutrient problems! Ill also include my tutorials I’ve been working on for this grow series ! Making the Perfect Coco Coir Items Required : Dried Coco Coir brick Course Perlite 5 gallon bucket Pillow case Fabric pots (recommended) CalMag supplement (recommended) PH meter (recommended) First things first , acquire the items above ! I highly recommend getting the suggested materials for this project as it will make your life a lot easier ! You can do this without the “(recommended)” items but it’s not as ideal. 1. Place your coco coir brick into the pillow case. If you can break the brick a bit as well it will make the process go faster in the next steps. 2. Get some good water(distilled or RO is best) and adjust the PH of the water to 5.8 3. (Optional) Add Calmag to your chosen water source, I used 5ml/G of water. Ensure PH is between 5.6-6 PH 4. Place the coco pillowcase inside a 5gallon bucket. Add the PH’d CalMag water. 5. Let this solution soak and absorb the good stuff from the water for about 20 minutes. Add more water if needed, it should be a soupy consistency. 6. Remove the pillowcase from the water and place it in a drainable area. Let the extra water run out for about 20 minutes. 7. Get your Fabric pots and add about 1/3rd volume of Perlite for your size of pot. 8. Place the saturated coco coir in with the perlite. Gradually mix the components together until you get an even mixture and a full pot. 9. You are now ready to use your coco and it is set up for an ideal start - Perfect PH, Extra CalMag and fully saturated ! 10. Check out the watering videos each week to learn about watering and proper nutrients. 11. Add your seed, clone or transplant and place under an appropriate grow light. That’s it everybody! Now you know how to get your Coco Coir off to a perfect start for optimized growth of your cannabis! Tune in next week to learn about the easy LST method to improve yields! Happy Growing! -TheWeedMan

Wow! So these two girls have really grown a lot this week , I’m pretty damn impressed with the results. I think coco and COBs make a great combo.. getting the nutrients dialed in and using some LST is making the girls short, fat and healthy green! I’ve focused on the LST training a lot this week and it’s something that needs constant maintenance for the next few weeks to keep up with all the growth. It’s a fair bit of work training the plants but it really improves the final product and yield in my opinion. So I bring to you my guide for training! Tutorial: The Easy LST Guide Items Required: Plant ties, string Garden Staple 6” So this week we are going to cover the basics of LST. For those of you that aren’t familiar with the term , it stands for Low Stress Training. It is a fantastic way to increase the yield of your plants and maintain an even canopy height. This ensures that you can maximize the potential of your chosen light source. We will also cover leaf tucking , this is an early growth booster that can be used to further enhance the benefits of LST. LST is actually quite a simple method of plant training , you can probably do it for free. Everybody has some extra string laying around somewhere, I’d assume. So the extra few minutes spent each week in your garden can add up to tens of grams more dried herbals for very little investment of time and basically zero cost. Also, who doesn’t like enjoying a bit more time in their garden? I sure do! So LST is essentially as the name implies, we are going to gently train the plant to a better suited way of growing for an indoor environment. The first week of training (I started training these plants mid week 2)will just bend the plant over, this will allow light to hit between nodes better and cause some off shoots to form. When these shoots begin forming between nodes is when you want to start thinking strategically and begin tucking leaves. The leaves blocking or shadowing new growth shoots can often be gently bent or tucked behind the newly forming growths. This will allow full light to the new shoots, which will eventually become colas, to get better light and faster growth. We want to spread out these off shoots in a different direction from each other in an attempt to maximize coverage and maintain even canopy height. Keep doing this step over and over until the plant is mid way through flower stretch. You should end up with a flat canopy and a short dense plant packed with nugs! It’s not something I can easily write in 1,2,3 steps as it’s based on each plants unique growth patterns, the best advice I can give is follow this journal - watch and learn! This is the ideal and recommended plant training technique for autos. The other plant training methods can stunt or severely reduce your yields with autos as the plants don’t have the time to recuperate like photoperiods. That’s it! Follow along with the journal and you’ll see some examples as I train these plants for some massive yields in Coco! Be sure to check in! Happy Growing! -TheWeedMan

Holy crap! These girls exploded in growth this week.. I’m stunned at the explosion of greenery. The tent is actually getting a little full, I’m starting to wonder if I’m going to run out of room in the tent.. The plants are getting lots of tops on them now and are brushing out nicely. The LST training is keeping me busy in the garden but it looks like it’s paying off. Plus they still look great, green and vibrant ! I also reduced the lights from 24hrs straight to 18hrs on / 6hrs off. I did this to hopefully trigger the flowering of the plants as they’re getting a bit big! Making the Best Water Table! Items Required : Flood tray 3/4” PVC Pipe Four PVC 3-Way Joints Four PVC 4-Way Joints Four PVC T-Joints 3/4” Rubber Grommet Low and wide tote 1” Hole saw Power Drill PVC Pipe Cutter Tape Measure Marker 1. First figure out what size of water table you want for your growing space. (I used a 3’x3,’ Botanicare PVC flood tray in my 4’x4’ tent and it fits great.) 2. Once you have the specs for the table you want , go out and get the stuff! I highly recommend the PVC pipe cutter for the $20 it makes this job very easy. 3. Take measurements! Measure twice - cut once! For the water table I built I needed over 40’ of PVC. 4. Measure and cut all your pieces to length. 5. Assemble them together according to the instructions on this website. (https://formufit.com/pages/pvc-kids-sand-and-water-table) I came across this and is very similar to the concept we are building. 6. Now that you’ve got that PVC water table all done - wasn’t too hard , right? - we can get onto the next steps.. the drainage. 7. I recommend setting up your table with the basin inside it so you can see if water naturally flows to an area OR you can put your table on a slight incline to force water to one side. 8. Once you decided on where the water will drain .. empty it out and drill a 1” hole in the bottom of the basin. 9. Insert the rubber grommet tightly into the hole, add silicone sealer if you made it to big. 10. Insert a small piece(1-2”) of 3/4” PVC into the grommet to direct all drainage downwards. 11. Place the tote under the drainage tube.. this will catch all the run off from the waterings + it will allow extra humidity if needed or can be easily pulled out and manually dumped as need / at the end of each week. 12. Congratulations , you now have a fully functioning Watering Table with drainage ! *Everything in this tutorial was acquired from Amazon.ca or Amazon.com *PVC pipe was from hardware store Supplies cost: Approximately $250 Canadian Dollars So that’s it everybody! Now we have the perfect coco and we’re training the plants too plus now we have an easier watering setup! But don’t worry - I’ve still got more tutorials for you to enhance your grow room! Next week we will cover building a timed drip irrigation system....! Make sure to check back for more. Happy Growing! -TheWeedMan

Well this is kind of a sad week, I had to take one girl out of the garden and I unfortunately couldn’t keep them all.. the coco and COBs in combination with a good nutrient feeding schedule caused massive growth...! Much more than I predicted at the start of this journal. I figure it makes more sense to have 5 healthy plants in the garden than keep an extra one and possibly cause mold or humidity problems. Super impressed! On the bright side, the plant I kept looks awesome. It has lots of tops on it and should be a good yielder ! I’m hoping it delivers some tasty buds like it’s predecessor did. It’s starting to get some pistils showing up so it’s on to flowering now! Can’t wait to see how she turns out! Building a Great Drip Irrigation System Items Required: 5 gallon bucket or larger Drip Irrigation Manifold Garden Staples Digital timer Submersible water pump 1/4” drip irrigation tubing 1/4” T joints Power drill 1/16 drill bit 1. Acquire the items above and get ready for some easier waterings from now on! Recommend to use with coco and the water table we built in the previous week for hassle free automatic waterings! 2. You can measure this or just guesstimate a little extra length, it’s not super important. Cut the length and number of tubing you need to reach the water storage to your growing area. 3. Cut 10-12” lengths of 1/4” tubing. You want one piece for each plant you plan on growing. 4. Connect each end of the 12” tubing together with a T-joint. This should make a circular shape. 5. Get the drill bit and drill , set it up. Now you want to drill small holes into the tubing. I placed holes all in a line around the circle about 1/3” apart. 6. Once you have all the circles drilled out you can connect these with the T-joint to the longer tubes you cut at the start. 7. Screw the drip manifold onto the submersible water pump output tube. 8. Connect the remaining ends of the tubing to the drip manifold outputs. 9. Place the water pump with manifold connected to tubing into the water storage. 10. Run your tubing to the desired locations in your garden and place the circles we created around the base of your plant. 11. With the circles around the plant , you want to use the garden staples to hold the tubing in place. 12. I recommend using this device once the plant is about 3-4weeks old, this ensures it has established a good root base already. 13. Fill the water storage with appropriate nutrients and water. See the video watering guide for more info. 14. Plug the water pump into a digital timer. You need one that has multiple on/off times per day and 1min settings. 15. Plug the pump directly into the power to for the watering , time it, see how long it takes to get a good full watering with 10-20% run off. 16. Set the timer to the timing length you learned from the previous step. Set this time for the future waterings - as the plant grows it will need more frequent waterings. 17. That’s it! Now you’re set to make your life a little easier with less time spent watering coco! *Everything in this tutorial was acquired from Amazon.ca or Amazon.com Total cost: Under $100 Canadian Dollars Wow ! We have made a lot of progress on this journal .. I hope everyone is enjoying this as much as I am! The garden is looking fantastic and we’ve made a lot of improvements so far.. We got the best Coco, the plants are trained, we have an easy watering area and now this basically takes care of itself .. just add water to the storage tote. It’s a fucking jungle in there.. So what else can we possibly improve? Well the last thing I could think of covering was adding some of the newest(and most expensive) LED technology to the garden! Next week we will cover what we need and getting started on building a frame for this beast! TEN CREE CXB3590s, 500w ! You don’t wanna miss this! Happy Growing! -TheWeedMan

Well we got some buds! The pistils are forming rapidly and building up some mass to form some nugs! It’s looking like a great start of flowering to me. The plant is super healthy and growing like a weed!(pun intended) it stretched a lot recently when going into flowering. I think the COB light is really putting in some work and over driving the growth on the whole garden! It really is a jungle in there. It looks amazing in the garden ! Constructing the ULTIMATE Light! Required Items: * 10 CXB3590 3500K * 10 Ideal Solderless Holder * 10 lenses or reflectors * 10 thermal pads or thermal paste * 10 heatsinks 120mm * 2 Meanwell driver HLG-240H-C1400B * 2 10K potentiometer  * 2 electrical connecters * 2 electrical grounded plugs * 16 gauge(1/16”) angled aluminum * 18 gauge solid core wire 30’ * Power drill * Drill bits - various * Chop saw or hack saw * Wrench / Ratchet * Measuring tape * Marker * Rope ratchet hangers * Wire nuts * Zip ties * Bolts * Nuts * Washers * Money, lots. *Note - All the electrical parts can be sourced from alibaba.com for a decent price or you can alternatively find pre-made DIY kits on EBay with a markup. I recommend sourcing the remaining items from a hardware store like Lowe’s or HomeDepot. You can also buy a prefabricated light like this from timbergrowlights.com but you will pay double to triple the price.* I highly recommend watching videos on YouTube by “LEDGardener” or “GrowMau5”. Their videos helped immensely with the project and if they somehow see this - I owe you guys one! Both of them have great instructional videos on the DIY process and core required knowledge. Phase One - The Frame: 1. Visit the hardware store and get the stuff. You will need time and a place to work on this as well. It will take multiple hours. 2. Measure, mark and cut your 16 gauge angled aluminum to desired lengths. I highly recommend a chop saw .. it makes quick work (I made my light 3’x3’ - so I needed eight 3’ pieces.) 3. Do a rough build of your project , line up the pieces to make the shape on your desired frame. Mark where you will need holes to assemble the frame. Make sure to take accurate measurements here .. you need EVERYTHING to line up. 4. Drill your holes. I recommend starting with a small drill bit like 3/16” and progressing up in size to the desired size needed. If you have a drill press your life will be easy - if not a standard power drill and muscle will work too. 5. Assemble the frame loosely - hopefully you were careful - everything should line up! 6. Get your passive heat sinks and place them around your frame , try to get it symmetrical for even light coverage. 7. Once you have your light placement figured out , get out that trusty marker and mark where you need to drill holes to secure the heat sink/COBs. 8. Disassemble the frame and take back the aluminum pieces to the drill and make the holes. 9. Build the frame this time - securely. Then drop in those heat sinks. Hopefully these all line up too! 10. If they line up, great .. now I recommend working on Phase Two - The Electrical! Ok that’s this is where we will stop for this week! I think that’s enough information for everybody to absorb for a week and get started.. Stay tuned because next week we go over the COBs, electrical work and assembly! You’ll wanna see this stuff too, trust me! Happy Growing! -TheWeedMan

Well we got even more nugs forming up now, the plant is really packing on some weight and smells great. I’m thinking the plant is gonna be a great yielder. The nugs are starting to give off the same smell as the last plant I grew. It’s got a great chocolate cream mix that smells awesome! I’m excited to hit this treat again! Constructing the ULTIMATE Light! Required Items: * 10 CXB3590 3500K * 10 Ideal Solderless Holder * 10 lenses or reflectors * 10 thermal pads or thermal paste * 10 heatsinks 120mm * 2 Meanwell driver HLG-240H-C1400B * 2 10K potentiometer  * 2 electrical connecters * 2 electrical grounded plugs * 16 gauge(1/16”) angled aluminum * 18 gauge solid core wire 30’ * Power drill * Drill bits - various * Chop saw or hack saw * Wrench / Ratchet * Measuring tape * Marker * Rope ratchet hangers * Wire nuts * Zip ties * Bolts * Nuts * Washers * Money, lots. *Note - All the electrical parts can be sourced from alibaba.com for a decent price or you can alternatively find pre-made DIY kits on EBay with a markup. I recommend sourcing the remaining items from a hardware store like Lowe’s or HomeDepot. You can also buy a prefabricated light like this from timbergrowlights.com but you will pay double to triple the price.* I highly recommend watching videos on YouTube by “LEDGardener” or “GrowMau5”. Their videos helped immensely with the project and if they somehow see this - I owe you guys one! Both of them have great instructional videos on the DIY process and core required knowledge. So last week we built the frame and this week we are going to complete phase two! Phase Two - The Electrical work 1. Place your COBs into the solderless holders , make sure the + and - line up properly. 2. Place thermal pads/paste on back of COBs. 3. Screw on the solderless holders to the Heatsink. 4. Measure the length between each COB on your frame and cut lengths of wire plus a few extra inches to give some slack. 5. Make a long Positive(+) lead from the first COB so you have something to attach to the driver later to power everything. 6. Connect the COBs together in a series power circuit. Which is essentially just one long wire with the connecting positive to negative alternating between COBs as you go down the line. 7. Wire 5 COBs together in a series and leave a long Negative(-) lead from the last COB to hook up to power later. 8. Repeat step 4/5/6 for the remaining 5 COBs. 9. Connect the Grounded Plugs to the input of the Meanwell drivers. Make sure it’s wired correctly. 10. Take your potentiometer and attach it to the Dim+ and Dim- leads. You want the adjustment knob to be facing you. Connect the positive wire to the middle lead , the negative wire to the left lead and the right lead you want left empty on the potentiometer. 11. Now that you have the drivers assembled and your COBs rough wired it’s time to put on the reflectors or Lenses. Screw these in place to enhance the light penetration and concentration. 12. Attach the fully assembled COBs to the frame. Try to get the 4 long Leads(2+ and 2-) heading in the same direction. 13. Take the the positive and negative lead from the first set of 5 COBs and attach to the Output wires from the driver. Make sure to attach positive to positive and negative to negative. 14. Repeat step 13 for the other 5 COBs. 15. Test it out ! Plug the first driver in to power and hopefully you followed these steps .. it should provide a intense blast of light! Repeat for the second driver. 16. Now you can zip tie down the wires securely to your frame so nothing comes loose by accident. 17. I bought heavy duty zip ties and attached 4 of them, one to each corner. 18. Attach the rope ratchet hangers to each corner zip tie and hang in desired area! 19. You now have the ultimate light for a 4x4 tent ! This is just as powerful as 1000w HPS at half the power while providing a Full spectrum to the plant. Next week I will go over the specifications and nerdy data points about cobs and the light we built. Wow! So now you should have a working light fixture and hopefully some great looking plants too. If you’ve followed along with this series at all .. we have covered a lot of subjects. We covered how to make the perfect Coco, plant training, building a water table, building an auto watering system , building an LED light frame plus how to wire/assemble an LED COB light! That’s over 7 tutorials I’ve packed into this grow so far.. we have a few weeks left .. what else can I come up with? Thanks for following along everybody and as always Happy Growing! -TheWeedMan

Hot damn ! These are filling out beautifully this week. The nugs are ripening and looks amazing! They are coated in crystal, smell dank and look sexy. The colours of the buds are starting to show and it’s almost time to harvest ! I think next week will be a flush and then a harvest ! Looks like a heavy yield of dank crystally buds COB Light Specs: This light is a beast. I ran everything through an online calculator .. for those who know numbers of this sorta stuff it’s very impressive! This light has basically the same power as a 1000w HPS but it has a full spectrum and uses about half the watts and keeps the grow room at a perfect 75F. It even is producing super dense buds.. Much much better than HPS so far id say! Total Power usage : 500w Total Lumens : 90,000 Total PPF : 1140 Total PPFD: 1350 Total Cost: $1100 Canadian Dollars The Sun naturally provides 50-60DLI(daily light integral) each day on good weather in areas like California. 18hours x 1350PPFD x 0.0036 = 87.5DLI With some simple math , we can get that this light running 18 hours a day will produce a DLI of 87.5. This light is so strong .. I could even add on CO2 to overdrive the growth or simply dim the amount of light during the day! (I currently dim the light down to about 400w of total power as it’s simply puts out more than the plant can use right now..) Even for photoperiod plants this light would provide 58DLI , a fantastic number for only 12 hours of light. Hopefully my geekiness isn’t too obvious! 🤓 The tutorials we’ve covered in this journal have been : Week 2 - The Perfect Coco Coir Week 3 - The Easy LST Week 4 - The best watering table Week 5 - An Auto Watering system Week 6 - LED COB frame build Week 7 - LED COB electrical work

Well I took some great pictures of this lady for everybody to enjoy! It’s fully ripe and looks amazing. The colour of the nugs looks so damn cool and smell dank! I can’t wait for these to dry and smoke some of these deliciously scented nugs! Hope you enjoy the pictures ! Tutorials we’ve covered: Week 2 - The Perfect Coco Coir Week 3 - The Easy LST Week 4 - The best watering table Week 5 - An Auto Watering system Week 6 - LED COB frame build Week 7 - LED COB electrical work Week 8 - LED COB specifications Thanks for following along everybody! We are almost there...! -TheWeedMan It’s got the final flush this week and is getting a 2 day dark period prior to harvest.

This plant smells dank like dark chocolate. It’s one of my favourite smelling strains .. the yield off this plant was great too 114g dried (1/4LB) ! The plants I had in my tent during the production of this journal.. The 2xGSC yielded 210g dried. (7.5oz) The 1xCream Cookies yielded 115g dried. (4oz) The 2xGorilla Glue yielded very impressive numbers, pulling in 140g and 180g (5 & 6.5oz) This gives me about 23oz of dried cannabis .. This equals just short of 650g of dried cannabis , grown in 10 weeks. They call em FastBuds for a reason people! This was achieved with a with my custom built 500w COB LED!