Mandarin Cookies R1 V2 - Custom Living Soil

Not much. It can't take in enough nutes to do anything but cannibalize itself. A minimal amount of paling is fine but you don't want them to eat themselves too much before they get some roots. Use Bti to avoid gnats and more, if available in your area. "Mosquito bits" and dunks are the brand i know of. But anything with Bacillus thurgenisis (spelled wrong but close enough) will work on larvea and 100% safe for you or pets. I use bti pre-emptively. You never know when a bale of substrate will bring in a bunch of pests from the store. Give them weak light and low VPD until they exhibit signs of growth, and improved turgidity (they stand up straighter with greater sustained water pressure inside the plant) as far as how much light.. just make sure they don't pale too much or fall over trying to avoid the light. High humidity slows transpiration (low vpd). This will reduce stress on the plant and allow it to form roots more easily. Unless you live in a very humid region, a humidity dome is very useful. They key is not giving them uninterrupted darkness for 10+ hours (flower cycle / chance for revege etc), which is easy enough to avoid. Can they root simply plopping them in some substrate and leaving by the window sill? yes, but success will be lower. Always take more cuttings than you need. Sometimes you'll have a 100% success rate, others you'll encounter a stubborn genotype or maybe it's not as healthy as normal etc... Lots of things can reduce success rate. if you take 4-5 cutting you could just leave them on a counter and at least 1 would survive, lol.

I have played around with layering, not quite the way you have done it, but not too far off. My living soil was doo dense, so I added coco and perlite to it to lighten it up, but was worried about it still getting too saturated in my larger pots (regular plastic, not fabric). I put a layer of coco and perlite alone in the bottom inch so the roots that got there should never sit in stagnant wet soil for long and I added another layer around the middle also about an inch so when the plant is young it can easily access airy pockets easily even if the living soil is a bit on the wet side. It worked quite well and after the plants finished, I saw their roots had spread more strongly in those airy layers while still having access to the nutrient in the living soil. I think your concept is fine, but I would maybe worry about the ratio you have of living soil to inert medium. If the plant stays small it should have enough food, but if you grow a bigger plant, you might need to start feeding more seriously than you normally would to make up for the lack of food. It will also probably dry a lot faster, so you'll have to water a lot more. Not a problem, it just seems it is going to make you work harder for the same result. I'm not expert and some of the things I've done may be really silly, but it worked for me and I grow large plants in those 30l pots without any problem. I just top dress with compost at the start of flower and use FPJ's I make myself and some epsom salt now and then. I would personally move the sand down to the bottom 1/3rd or 1/4th and have more living soil and less inert medium, but try it out and lets see how it goes.

When I take clones I put them into a cup of water for 48 hours. This I feel is very important. However, I always make my final 45 degree cut after I take them out of the water. Then I put them into a rapid rooter plug with root hormone. I’ve had 95% plus success doing this. After about a week under a humidity dome I get nice white roots coming out the plug. It looks like your cuttings are water logged and starting to rot away. I would either take more cuttings or cut the existing clones way back to more solid stem. Hope this helps.

Should not need to sterilize rockwool but pooring boiling water over it and then let it cool would give it a good start. I clone in a glass of tap water I don't ph it or do anything special. works fine for me, once it shows root tips little warts, i place em in soil and they grow.

In 2-3 days the roots havent colonized the new pot, fully. Still might cause a little extra growth before vege growth stops in flower phase, but given the timing, i don't think you have to worry about anything crazy. You might not see roots throughout 40L of volume by the end, so it's effect will be limited too. I think you are safe and that the plant will be limited by how much time it has to grow in flower phase and avoid too much extra growth relative to space caused by pot size. The fact they are mature mothers with size that already fills the area of the tent will probably result in some over-crowding regardless of pot size. No biggie. Just prune them to fit. If you think they are too tall to start, prune back a few nodes to reduce height before flip and give 3-5 days to heal, preferably.

Hello there Your plants look nice don't worry to much we can get this taken care of really easy I have had the same problem several times when I switched from florescent and hps to led. When plants 1st start making there buds they still don't require that much light What you are seeing is light damage from to much light. If you turn down the light just a small amount for about a weeknthen you should start to be able to ramp the light up more and more throught flower. As long as you tune down the light now by the time the plant is ready for harvest that will disaper.