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As with previous grow, I will be starting the germination by soaking the seed in distilled water until it sinks/cracks open (18h max).
The seed will then be transferred to a damp paper towel in the oven to keep a warm temperature. I can maintain ~26C with the oven light on and the door slightly ajar.
Timeline:
03/09/2024: Put the seed in the glass of water
04/09/2024: Moved the seed to damp paper towels located in the oven with the light on and door slightly ajar (~27C).
06/09/2024: Root has developed enough to plant the seed in soil.
08/09/2024: The plant has emerged from the soil. However, the cotyledon are held shut by a membrane of the seed. I'll see tomorrow if it's able to break free on its own.
09/09/2024: The membrane is still preventing the cotyledon from opening up. I took some tweezers to remove the membrane and the plant opened up as it should.
10/09/2024: A week later, we have a healthy plant! Added the humidifier to the tent as RH was fairly low (25-30%).
Next week:
- Start easing in some nutrients while watering to avoid last grow's no nutrient start
- Start lowering light very slowly over the next week to bring it ~30 inches from the plant and then to ~20 inches the week after.
- I'll keep an eye on the humidity levels and adjust as needed. Right now I'm running the humidifier all the time during lights on and 30min/1h on/off during the night which seems to be doing OK for the current weather.
Only thing of note is that we are in the middle of a heat wave, so daytime temperatures are much higher than I'd like. Thankfully, the plant seems to be doing fine.
I did a few changes this week:
- I changed the exhaust fan to be on the same schedule as the humidifier instead of being always on at night. This will help keep the humidity a bit higher during the night instead of having the exhaust blow out all the humid air while the humidifier is off. It will also allow me to avoid unnecessarily adjust the fan speed at night/day transitions. There still is passive air exchange so I'm not too worried about stale humid air.
- I'm gradually lowering the lights, currently at 30 inches above the plant. Will lower it further to reach the final distance for week #3 (~16-20 inches).
- I started feeding the plant at about mid-week. Noticed some darkening which indicates my formula might be a bit too strong. Diluted my mix further and will delay the progression to the 2nd week of the schedule.
Edit: I'm not sure what happened to General Hydroponics in this website, but that's what I'm using for nutrients (like last time). I will be finishing the non-core products that I got from the package deal. Once done with those, I'll be using the Flora trio + calmag only.
The heat wave has gone this week which naturally helped keeping the temperatures a bit lower and raised the ambient humidity levels. This allowed me to dial down the humidifier so it doesn't blast at 100% all the time, preventing me to have to fill the reservoir every 12 hours.
I may have over-watered early on in the week and I observed a bit of drooping. I held off a bit more on watering/feeding which allowed the plant to grow a lot more in the second half of the week.
At the end of the week I started to see the tip of some roots showing up from the drainage holes. I'll give it a few more days for the roots to saturate the pot a bit more and I'll be transplanting next week to the final pot.
Last few days of warmer weather. I had a few days where the tent temperatures were fairly high. I tried several fan placements to try to ease up the temperature without much success as the fans I have are just to create slight air circulation, they are not powerful enough to draw air from outside. Thankfully, the next couple of weeks will be colder.
I transplanted to the final 7 gal pot. It went much better than last time, thanks to using a starter pot that easily let go of the soil.
I noticed some yellowing of some leaf blades which were under other leaves. I'm not sure if this is a Cal deficiency, heat stress or something else, but it is not light burn. I did go light on the nutrients early on, so I'll see if this goes away as I gradually increase them.
Next week I may top the plant if it's doing well.
Lots of action this week, and not necessarily the good kind.
Seeing no changes to the yellowing of the leafs, I decided to do a bit of flushing to try and get a sense of what the soil is like. Seeing the leaf colors and pattern, I hypothesized that Cal/Mag probably wasn't being absorbed.
After measuring the runoff, I noticed that there's a lot of salt buildup AND the soil is acidic (runoff was at 5.5 pH). I decided to flush with higher pH to try and drive soil pH up while lowering the salt buildup. I managed to raise the runoff pH to reasonable levels (6.14 pH) and I observed that the ppm was starting to lower.
I tried feeding the plant at the end of the week, hopefully to get a balance of nutrients at correct pH levels for the plant to bounce back.
I also changed the fans used to circulate the air inside the tent, that has eliminated a lot of the hot spots I was observing during the heat waves.
Next week, I'll keep feeding with a slightly elevated pH (~6.2) with lots of runoff to keep working against the high soil pH/ppm. If all goes well, I'll be topping the plant and try to grow it a bit horizontally.
For this week, I saw some very dark leafs so I've lowered the amounts of FloraGro I put into the solution to lower the potassium availability a bit. I've also slightly increased the CalMag for this week only to counteract the deficit we had due to bad soil pH.
After reviewing my feeding/runoff data from last week, I've chosen to revert back to normal feeding pH (5.8 - 6.0) which was a good decision. I've fed to produce 20% of runoff which showed that the soil was back to normal. Feeding at 6.0 pH produced runoff pH that was close to the initial feeding water. PPM runoff is still a bit high, but I think that might be the fabric pot holding on to salts as I am now noticing pale colors on the new leafs which is a clear nutrient deficiency indicator, so I will go back to feeding at normal nutrient levels with decent runoff to keep flushing salt buildup at the same time.
I've put off topping and defoliation the plant this week as fixing the issues identified last week was more important. Seeing how everything seems mostly normal, I will do the topping and defoliation early next week.
At the beginning of the week I started by topping the plant and remove a few fan leaves that were deep in the shadows. I repeated the defoliation a bit later as to not shock the plant more than it already is.
More issues this week, but I think I'm slowly getting to the bottom of it.
To start, I think the mosaic/two color symptoms that I've been observing are simply plant genetics as no matter what I do, this behavior does not change. What does change is the health of the plant when I start changing nutrients. By the end of the week, the plant was clearly struggling to grow new leaves (small, yellow/sad colors with slow growth). I already started feeding it normally, time will tell if I need to increase nutrients (currently on the 'light' feeding schedule at full strength).
I'm also fairly convinced I have a watering/soil problem. I ordered a new watering pot with shower head that will help spread the water instead of a big spout that just flooded the pot. This probably caused my runoff measurements to be off. I'm hopeful that a more gradual watering technique will give me a better understanding of what's going on in the soil (runoff pH + ppm) to make more sensible adjustments. My hypothesis at the moment is that the soil pH is wrong and that a lot of my feed water just goes straight to the collection tray.
Next week, I'll keep an eye to remove the leaves stuck in the shade and I'll install the ScrOG net to help spread the plant. I'll also see what the runoff gives me by changing the watering technique and see if I need to adjust nutrients further. I'm expecting the following week to be the last of veg growth, any more weeks and I'll have the same problem as last time where the plant grew dangerously close to the light.
This week I've increased the nutrients (from light to medium schedule) as the leaves were getting a general pale green tint. I've ignored the random yellow blades as I think it's just genetics at this point since no matter what I do, they stay there without getting better or worse.
As for maintenance, I've done a bit of defoliation to help the plant breathe a bit and allow lower leaves and branches to gain access to the light.
I've change the air scrubbing filter which greatly increase exhaust air flow which helped lower the night time humidity. I was frequently at 70% humidity during the night which is not dramatic, but could promote mold which we don't want.
I'll be installing the ScrOG net and switching to flower mode as I'm already at the same plant height as last time.
Busy week this time around.
Started by switching light schedule to 12h cycles and installing the ScrOG net. The height of the plant is a bit skewed on one side, it'll make for an interesting LST/ScrOG management.
I also did two rounds of defoliation. On the first feed of the week, I started removing any branches that had no chance at growing properly, most of which were closer to the roots which also makes it much easier to water properly. On the second feed, I did some defoliation, removing all fan leaves that were either in the shade or those that created too much shade.
I also reviewed data from my last time growing this strain and I noticed I never really went to the "medium" feed strength. So after 1.5 weeks of doing medium feed strength I notice a lot of salt buildup in the runoff and clawing leaves (early nitrogen toxicity). So for next week I will revert to the "light" feed strength and try to aim for higher runoff on the next feed or two. Hopefully I can avoid having to flush the medium.
As noted last week, I changed the feeding ratios to a "light" feed instead of the medium. I never used "medium" feed ratio last grow, not sure why I thought it would be a good idea this time around... Anyway, the plant seems to be doing well and the runoff PPM is starting to diminish which is good news as long as I don't see any nutrient deficiencies popping up. I did notice two leaves on the same branch showing signs of necrosis, I'll keep an eye out to see if it spreads.
For maintenance, I kept removing branches and leaves that were in the shade or those that were blocking a lot of light. I plan to go nuts next week as it'll be the last week of stretch.
In other news, my nutes are running low so I will have to start looking for a new series of nutrients. I would have liked for GHE/TerraAquatica to be available here, but unfortunately that is not the case and I can only get the GH that's actually Miracle Grow 😤
I think salts might be cheaper (Jacks/MegaCrop), but I'm not sure what to go for. Let me know what's your experience when growing in PromixHP.
Following the reduction of the feed schedule, I noticed a reduction of runoff PPM but that stagnated at roughly 1.5x the PPM I put in.
Also, the orange/brown necrosis I noticed last week spread a bit more and the pattern seems to suggest it is Calcium deficiency (mid level leaves, targeting the whole leaf). I started addressing the issue by increasing the CalMag I gave but still saw the discoloration spread leaving me to believe this was nutrient lockout. I decided to end the week with a reduced nutrient regiment to flush out some of that salt buildup. I'll do the same next feed and see if the runoff PPM starts to go down, if not I think I may have to do a proper flush.
For the nutrients replacement, I looked around and saw that there's a lot of documentation on using Jack's 321 in Promix HP, so I might go for that. Only problem is finding a supplier as Jacks themselves don't ship to my country.
Next week:
- Feed again at reduced PPM to eliminate salt buildup, or a flush if I see dramatic drop on plant health
- Lollipop all bud sites as I did last time (increase airflow, light propagation...)
- Eliminate all bud sites that are tiny or obstructed
This week started with a flush to address persistently high runoff PPM (1400+) and unresolved calcium deficiency issues. The flush brought the runoff PPM down to 650, at which point I stopped and allowed the plant to rest for 24 hours. During this time, I also performed light defoliation to improve airflow and remove affected leaves.
The following day, I gave a light feed at 50% strength to gently reintroduce nutrients and encourage recovery. While preparing the feed, I noticed an unusually high pH in my tap water, which raised suspicions about my pH pen's accuracy. After recalibrating the pen, I fed the plant according to the updated readings. I also completed the lollipopping process, significantly improving airflow, and performed some LST to level the canopy by bringing down the taller branches.
Over the next 24-48 hours, I observed signs of some light nutrient deficiency, likely due to the flush and light feeding, as expected. For the next feeding, I plan to increase the nutrient strength to 75% and evaluate both plant health and runoff. Based on these observations, I'll decide whether to continue at 75% or increase to full strength (100%).
Finally, I decided to upgrade my pH meter to an Apera PH60, as frequent recalibrations of my current pen (a yellow Vivosun) have proven too tedious and unreliable for consistent readings.
The plant’s looking rough—lots of calcium deficiency showing up now, and I’m pretty sure it’s because the soil got too acidic. I know it doesn't look like it from the pictures, but trust me, copper leaves everywhere! Turns out, my old pH pen was way off and had me feeding way too low without realizing it. I’ve switched to the Apera PH60, which I properly calibrated and tested (twice), and now I can actually trust the readings. It feels like I’m playing catch-up now.
This week’s feed was at 75% strength after last week’s flush. The runoff PPM is climbing again (hit 1000 last feed), so it’s clear I need to stick with a feed-feed-water routine to keep salts in check. Not sure why I wasn’t doing that sooner—it just makes sense.
I removed the LST strings as the branches reinforced themselves in their new bent position. This will make watering a lot easier. I also removed a few more flimsy branches that weren’t going to amount to much. They would have collapsed under their own weight anyway, so better to let the plant focus on the stronger ones.
I’ve got the bags of Jack’s 321 sitting here, but I’m not switching over just yet. I want to stabilize the plant before making any big changes. One problem at a time, right?
Honestly, it feels like I’m running out of time to fix this. If I can’t get things back on track by next week, I’m worried the plant might just give up. Here’s hoping this next feed, with a slightly higher pH, does the trick.
This past week has been one of cautious observation. While it’s hard to tell how well the calcium deficiency is being resolved—especially during flower when new growth is limited—the plant seems stable for now. The rate of leaf degradation hasn’t noticeably increased, and I’ve even seen what looks like some fresh green growth. It’s too early to call it an improvement, but stability in itself feels like progress given the challenges of the past few weeks.
The focus this week was on combating acidic soil by feeding at a higher pH. Both feeds went in around 6.28, and runoff came out consistently lower at about 6.05, confirming the soil remains acidic. Runoff PPM readings climbed from 1100 to 1150, suggesting that salts continue to accumulate in the medium. These values reflect a slow but ongoing buildup, so keeping salts in check while addressing pH remains the priority.
The plan moving forward is to water next with added Cal/Mag to help flush excess salts from the medium and maintain balanced nutrient levels. This will be followed by a switch to Jack’s 321 nutrient program for subsequent feeds. The goal is to stabilize the medium and address nutrient uptake issues while keeping an eye on pH trends. With the plant entering a critical phase of flower, creating a healthy environment for root absorption remains the top priority.
This week marked the transition to Jack’s 321 formula at 80% strength (literal 321), and the plant is responding well. The week started with a water-only feed to help dissolve residual GH salts and prepare the medium for Jack’s nutrients. The switch itself happened at the next feed, and the plant has since adjusted seamlessly to the new regimen.
The soil pH, which had been a persistent issue, is finally stabilizing. Runoff pH is trending downwards slightly but remains manageable. Feeding at 6.1-6.2 seems to hold the medium steady, giving confidence that nutrient uptake is back on track. Runoff PPM has risen slightly compared to previous feeds, but nothing concerning—likely just the result of introducing a new nutrient regimen.
The canopy is steady, with leaves showing no new signs of distress. Older damage remains visible, but it feels like the plant is moving forward. Pistils are slowly transitioning, with about 30-40% starting to amber, and resin production is evident everywhere. Branches are drooping a bit under the weight of the buds, so supports are in place to prevent any stress. Overall, the environment feels dialed in and ready for the next stage of ripening.
Note: Nutrient amounts are in grams per gallon, as a g/gal category is not available.
This week, I maintained Jack’s feeding regimen at 80% strength, and the plant is responding well. Runoff pH has remained stable, indicating that the medium is balanced, though a steady rise in runoff PPM suggests a potential buildup that I’ll address in the coming week.
Overall, the plant’s health remains steady, with no new signs of stress or leaf issues. The buds are swelling nicely and becoming noticeably heavier. Several branches are starting to sag under the weight of the growing flowers, but I’ve been repositioning them to ensure they stay oriented toward the lights, even if it means some are flowering horizontally.
This week, I continued feeding with Jack’s 3-2-1 formula. To address salt buildup, I started with a 40% strength feed and followed it with an 80% strength feed at the end of the week. The runoff levels showed improvement, and the plant seems to be responding well.
The buds are getting noticeably larger, and several branches are now sagging heavily under the weight. I’ve been working to keep the branches positioned so they can still receive light, even when they’re resting horizontally on the ScrOG netting.
Most of the trichomes are now cloudy, but I haven’t seen any significant amber trichomes yet. Based on this, I plan to begin using Jack’s Finish nutrient next week and will monitor closely for the first signs of amber to know when to start the flush phase.
The plant continues to progress nicely as it nears the final stages of the grow.
This week, I continued with the Jack's Finish formula at 80% strength. The buds are continuing to fatten up nicely, but the increased weight is causing some heavy branch sagging. I’ve been doing my best to orient the branches so they remain under the light, even if they are now positioned horizontally on the ScrOG netting.
Trichomes are still mostly cloudy with no signs of amber yet. I will continue to monitor them closely over the next few days, as I plan to start flushing once I see amber trichomes. I’m also keeping an eye on the runoff PPM, as it has been steadily increasing. This will be addressed next week by adjusting the feed strength accordingly.
I also cut and dried a bud that was in a low light setting to test its potency. The hit is exactly as expected, even stronger than last time. A good social/energetic high, though the taste was poor due to the flash-drying method.
Overall, everything seems stable, and the plant is making progress toward ripening. I will remain vigilant for any further changes in trichome development and ensure the plant gets the care it needs as it nears harvest.
This week started with observations from the previous week: a rise in runoff PPM and a drop in pH indicated significant salt buildup in the medium. To address this, I reduced the feed strength to 40% for most of the week. While this approach temporarily stabilized runoff readings, I decided to try a 80% feed by the end of the week to see if the medium had stabilized. Unfortunately, this backfired, as the runoff showed that the medium is still highly unstable, with elevated PPM and declining pH.
The plant's condition is increasingly difficult to assess due to prior damage to its leaves, which makes it challenging to gauge health and nutrient uptake. Despite minimal amber trichomes observed (
This week marked the start of the flushing phase, with harvest planned for mid-next week. Runoff metrics showed clear signs of improvement, with PPM dropping as salts were flushed out and pH returning to more stable levels. These results provide some relief after the challenges faced earlier in the grow.
Branches are sagging more now, likely due to the combined weight of buds and the reduced nutrient uptake during the flush. Leaves are yellowing, as expected at this stage, with no additional issues other than the remnants of damage from the earlier calcium deficiency.
While the plant seems to be stabilizing, the long road to this point leaves me uncertain about how the final harvest will turn out. It’s been a tough grow, but I’m ready to finish and take the lessons learned into the next grow.
This week, I began the harvest process with two rounds of water + FloraKleen, followed by a final flush with just water. The plant spent 36 hours in complete darkness before harvest. The buds showed lovely purple hues where they were exposed to light, while the rest of the plant had more green and amber tones. The smell was pleasant, like woolong tea, and there were no signs of mold.
The buds are now drying in the tent with fans circulating the air and the exhaust fan running at a lower speed to maintain humidity. I’m monitoring the conditions carefully with a hygrometer to ensure proper drying.
After harvesting, the buds were hung in the tent to dry, with fans circulating air and the exhaust fan running on a timer to maintain proper humidity. To help stabilize humidity, I placed a large, shallow dish of water inside the tent. This worked well initially, keeping humidity within range, but while I was away for the weekend, the water evaporated completely. As a result, humidity dropped, and the buds dried much faster than expected, ending up drier than I would have liked.
I trimmed the buds and placed them in 1L mason jars with 52% RH Boveda packs to restore some moisture. Normally, I would wait a few weeks before adding them, but given how dry the buds were, it seemed necessary. Most jars stabilized at around 50% RH after two days, so I did the first burp and then stored them upside down to prevent bud squishing.
The final dry weight of buds, leaves, and branches came to 315g, down from the 1532g recorded before drying. Now begins the curing phase, where I’ll be burping the jars every few days to ensure a smooth and even cure.
Despite the challenges with acidic medium, nutrient lockout, and high PPM, the plant pushed through and delivered a decent provisional yield. These issues taught me important lessons—mainly the need for fresh soil and new fabric pots.
Overall, the grow was a valuable learning experience, and I’m looking forward to applying these lessons to future grows.