Wedding Gelato

CapybaraProbioticTeam The seed germinated 24 hours after its first contact with water. It was placed in a glass of chlorine-free water for 6 hours and then between damp paper towels in a tupper at 26ºC. The whole process was in complete darkness. 100% organic and probiotic cultivation. Outdoor cultivation out of season. The conditions won't be ideal, but it will be a challenge. These weeks in March here (Argentina) are warm, ideal for germination and for the first weeks of growth. The substrate is composted soil mixed with a bit of coconut fiber and perlite. To prepare it, before placing the seeds, it was watered with low concentrations of EM1 and organic molasses. When the germinated seeds were placed in the soil, a single application of Bioroots 1ml/L was made. For now, I'm only watering with chlorine-free water.

CapybaraProbioticTeam At the beginning of the week, I applied a watering with Bioroots 1:500 and added mycorrhizae (a spore solution). I continued watering with water until day 11 when I applied a solution with corn SST (1:250) and FFE (1:1000). Ideally, it would be a FPJ, but it’s currently fermenting, so we won’t have it until next week. The temperatures written in conditions are the average temperatures for the week. I keep a record, so at the end of the week, I calculate the average. The same goes for humidity. 😊 I hope to transplant it in two days, but with the mandatory quarantine, it’s hard to get the necessary supplies. :( Cheers! 😄

CapybaraProbioticTeam Hello! This week was transplant time. I would have liked it to be at the beginning of the week, but two days more isn't bad. The plant reacted very well to it and showed no signs of stress. I prepared the substrate with fertile soil, worm humus, vermiculite, organic compost, and worms. While my preferred way of growing is with a super living soil, in this case, we can't use it because it's being used by other plants. When transplanting, I placed mycorrhizal spores in the hole where the plant goes so that the roots come into direct contact from the very start. The spores need to be handled carefully as they are very sensitive to UV radiation from the sun. As a final consideration for the transplant, I generally work quickly and in the dark so that the roots don't come into contact with light and to minimize plant stress, but in this case, I thought it would be interesting to take photos of the root development. - Day 17: After the transplant, it was watered with a solution of bioroots and mycorrhizae. - Day 18, 19, and 20: Watering with chlorine-free water. - Day 21: watering with SST, LABS, and organic molasses. At this moment, the plants are receiving 14 hours of light per day, of which 12 hours are from sunlight (6 hours are direct sunlight), and 2 hours are from a lamp. The function of the lamp is to extend the photoperiod by two hours so that the girls don't start flowering until the right moment. Remember that this is an outdoor grow out of season, so the days are getting shorter and cooler. I hope you like it. Any suggestions or comments are welcome!😄 Cheers!

CapybaraProbioticTeam I finished week 4... This week we did the main-lining. While the plant didn't have significant lateral development before, we believe a good cutting point for this technique is when the plant has between 5 and 6 nodes, and we cut above the third. We remove all the lateral branches and leaves below. We sanitize the scissors with ethyl alcohol and put a little on the cut areas to prevent possible infection. That soil needs a topping urgently! Watering: -Day 22: Watering with bioroots and corn SST. -Day 24 (cutting day): Watering with chlorine-free water. -Day 26: LAB's + Organic molasses + FPJ from moringa. -Day 28: Chlorine-free water. This will probably be the last week of watering with bioroots and SST since from now on we are more interested in getting good plant growth rather than root growth. That's all for this week. Cheers!! 😃

CapybaraProbioticTeam During this week, the plant grew at a good pace. I'm waiting for it to grow a bit more to do a topping + LST with the goal of getting a total of 12 colas. I've been doing foliar applications of a 1/800 LABs solution; the plant benefits from it and it serves as a preventive against certain pests. Day 30: Watering with "rice and oats wash" + mycorrhizae Day 33: watering with LABs + organic molasses. Day 35: watering with FPJ. Every day I water the soil a bit; I only write down the days I add inputs. On the other days, I water with chlorine-free water. That's all for this week. Any comments or suggestions are welcome! Cheers!!😄

CapybaraProbioticTeam This week was fun, I had to do the topping and the LST. Regarding the first one, I think I could have waited longer since the lateral branches of the third node were very small, but I'm trying to stress the plant as little as possible, so I decided to do it on day 40. I waited two days for the plant to recover and for the branches to start growing, and I did the LST. I made a video of the topping + LST. As for the inputs, it rained a lot in the first days of this week, and the plants are under a minimal roof, so they got some water. On the day of the topping, I watered with FPJ, and on the day of the LST, I watered with Compost tea + Organic molasses. That's all for now... Any suggestions are welcome! Happy growing!😄

CapybaraProbioticTeam This week was calm. I'm only going to upload photos from the last day of the week, day 49. Compared to the previous week, the branches are growing at a good pace, even though the temperatures in this area are dropping quite a bit. I fed the plant with a solution of FPJ + LAB's in chlorine-free water, alternating the watering every other day between this solution and chlorine-free water. 😃 Even though the humidity in this area is high (50%-70%), I apply foliar sprays with LAB's 1/1000 two or three times a week. The plant really appreciates it, and its leaves stay beautiful and healthy. The smell that the leaves give off when touched is almost fruity, super delicious 😋. I'm surprised they smell so good during the vegetative stage. We hope that in 2-3 weeks the branches will have grown enough to switch the plant to flowering. Any advice is welcome! Cheers!!

CapybaraProbioticTeam Hello! This week we managed to get 8 out of the 12 tails outside the circumference we use to guide and support the branches. We estimate that in two days the ones that are left will grow enough to pass them. Before doing the LST, we let the stems grow normally until they reach the necessary height. When that moment comes, we twist the stem, secure it to the circumference, and cut the leaves and stems that are below. This can be seen in photo #5. Next week, the ninth, will be the last week with a vegetative photoperiod since we will remove the support light that prevents the plants from entering flowering. 😃 Regarding watering: - Day 51: rice+oat wash. - Day 53: chlorine-free water. - Day 55: LAB's + FPJ. That's all for now. Any suggestions are welcome! 😄 Cheers!

CapybaraProbioticTeam Hello! This week is the last week of vegetation. Starting today, day 63, we will remove the lamp that provides those extra hours of light. On the other hand, the four stems that were missing from last week were taken care of on day 58, so now all 12 are outside the circumference. At the beginning of this week, the stems averaged a height of 21-23cm, and by the end, they reached 35-37cm, so a uniform growth of 14cm surprised me, especially since there were three days of rain and a lot of cold (lows of 4ºC). Regarding watering, we continue to water with LABs + FPJ, but this week we added a watering with WS-Ca (Water-Soluble Calcium). -Day 58: FPJ. -Day 60: LABs + WS-Ca. -Day 62: FPJ + WS-Ca. That's all for now. Any suggestions are welcome!

CapybaraProbioticTeam Well, this was the first week of flowering. The white pistils that announce the plant's sex appeared on the fourth day after the light change, that is, day 66. For the flowering stage, I will mainly use guano tea, compost, FFE, and FFJ, in different amounts as the plant develops. While last week the plant had a weekly growth of about 14cm, I expected it to be similar this week, but it was approximately 8cm. This decrease happened because it's very likely that I overwatered the plant. The curled and hard leaves are an indication of overwatering. Luckily, I checked the roots and they are white and shiny, so no fungus or parasites appeared. I rule out that the curled leaves are a sign of cold, as I have had other plants at this time of year and they never showed this way. I hope that next week the plant returns to normal with the leaves standing up in search of sunlight. 😃 That's all for this week. Any suggestions are welcome! Bye!!

CapybaraProbioticTeam Well, this week I did nothing but check on the plant and one foliar spray. Luckily, she is recovering from last week's overwatering; you can see it in the leaves and in her strength. I only watered at the beginning of the week with a solution that included everything I added in nutrients, plus an addition of mycorrhizae, which she needed to complement last week's nutrients. I didn't do any more foliar sprays, first because it's not advisable when the plant has been overwatered, and second because this week we've had a lot of humidity in the area, and I don't want to encourage mold, which thankfully hasn't appeared yet... That's all for now... Cheers!

CapybaraProbioticTeam Hey! This week there were no surprises. The buds are starting to take shape, but their development is slow, mainly due to the temperature. Compared to previous weeks, the plant is needing less water, so I'm watering every other day with half a liter of some solution. I think it's due to the low temperatures and being in flowering. I was using solutions with LABs + 2 teaspoons of guano + a teaspoon of sugar to activate the microorganisms (I usually use molasses for this, but I ran out). I did one foliar spray this week with LABS + WS-ca. These weeks there has been high humidity, as we haven't entered winter yet and the weather is changing. Anyway, in this area, the humidity never drops below 50%, which isn't ideal, but we do what we can... The photos are from the last day of the week, day 84. That's all for now... Any suggestions are welcome. Bye!!

CapybaraProbioticTeam Hello! This was the fourth week of flowering. The plant is progressing slowly, but it is progressing. Compared to last week, there was greater development (I think this is linked to the fact that the temperatures this week were higher than the previous one). This week I didn't do any foliar watering since we are again experiencing high humidity, and I don't want to encourage the presence of fungi. That's all for now.. Cheers!

CapybaraProbioticTeam The plant is still developing slowly for my taste, but it's due to the low temperatures. In fact, it's already starting to turn purple 😍. While I think this state isn't ideal, this week I removed the small popcorns from the bottom of the branches so the plant doesn't waste energy forming those little buds. Anyway, the plant hasn't shown any signs of stress. I'm continuing to water intermittently with 0.5-0.75L like last week. I'm using guano that I leave for 24 hours with organic molasses to activate the microorganisms, and FFE, which is a kind of fermented juice from fruits rich in phosphorus and potassium with lactic bacteria. At the beginning of this week, I added small amounts of dolomite and Epsom salts to the watering, just to ensure that no minerals are lacking in the soil. I was surprised by the smell, quite strong and extremely delicious: very sweet. That's all for now. Bye!!

CapybaraProbioticTeam The plant has already achieved a beautiful color due to the low temperatures, and the smell is amazing, flooding my entire garden. It looks healthy and happy despite growing slowly, but I'm surprised by the number of leaves full of trichomes. It won't give me a big harvest, but I'm sure those buds will be well worth it. 👌 I'm a bit worried about the fact that more leaves than usual are turning yellow. It's common for leaves to yellow during the flowering stage, especially on the lower part of the plant, but in this case, there are several leaves. I think it's because, with these low temperatures, the plant isn't able to absorb nutrients properly, so it's forced to sacrifice more leaves than normal. All the photos are from the last day of the week, day 105. I hope you like them. Any suggestions are welcome! 💪😃 Note: I write the week comment in my native language, Spanish. I usually read the automatically generated translation, and in general, it's more or less okay... If something isn't understood, I have no problem answering questions in English; I just write this in Spanish to save time.

CapybaraProbioticTeam This week in particular, the weather wasn't great, pretty cold and the sun hardly came out :(. I was able to take advantage of the last day of the week (Day 112) when the sun came out to get some good close-up photos of those trichomes 😋. The plant keeps developing at its own pace, getting whiter and stickier. The smell is FABULOUS!. I'm still watering the same way as previous weeks (one day yes, two days no, and so on). The number of yellow leaves has decreased, so I'm not as worried anymore. That's all for now... I hope you enjoy the photos! Any suggestions are welcome!

CapybaraProbioticTeam Well, this was the eighth week of flowering. Unfortunately, I couldn't get any good close-up photos, but most of the trichomes are nice and white (or "milky"), with hardly any amber ones yet. For some, this would be an optimal cutting point, but personally, I like to see about 20%-30% amber trichomes. I hope to harvest by the end of next week. But as we all know, anxiety is our worst enemy when it comes to harvesting! Nothing to change from the previous week, watering and environment are similar. That's all for now. I hope you enjoy the photos and the video of the whole plant! 😄 (All photos are from day 119).

CapybaraProbioticTeam This was the ninth week of flowering. To be more specific, today 07/25/2020, is day 126 since germination and day 60 since the plant showed white pistils and started to flower. I think it won't be long until I harvest it, probably in the next few days, as all the trichomes are white, and very very few are amber. Although last week I said I would wait until I had 20% amber trichomes, this particular plant has shown very even ripening, which I have never seen before, so it’s very likely that I will cut in the next few days, with 5-10% amber trichomes. This week I only watered with chlorine-free water and a bit of molasses. Although for the ferments I use to feed them it's not necessary to do a root wash, I think it’s always good towards the end to water only with water and let the soil do its thing. That’s all for today. Cheers!!

CapybaraProbioticTeam Everything related to the strain I mentioned at the beginning. ----Drying and Curing Process---- For drying, I think the ideal is to dry at 60/60 (60F and 60% humidity or 15ºC and 60% humidity) and in COMPLETE darkness, as the process occurs slowly and evenly, without excessive evaporation or oxidation of terpenes and cannabinoids. However, I still don't have a specific place to achieve these conditions, but I tried to get as close as possible: I dried in the closet, where the temperature fluctuated between 15.2ºC and 20.6ºC and the humidity was maintained between 47% and 66%. The process took 9 days. Regarding curing, I don't like to use humidity-regulating packets as I believe they can interfere with the desired organic compounds of the plant. I use a hygrometer inside the jar where I cure the buds, and I adjust the ventilation depending on the desired final humidity (for my taste, 60-62%). I try to keep them in complete darkness and at a temperature below 24ºC. ----Results---- I obtained approximately 18g of nice buds and 8g of popcorns. As I mentioned at the beginning, I didn't manage to get a large amount harvested, nor huge buds, but this is mainly due to the low temperatures. However, I am very satisfied with the resin, the flavors and aromas, and the effect of these little buds. While the low temperatures reduce overall yield, the only good thing is that they manage to preserve the terpenes produced by the plants very well. *Note: the wet weight number includes branches and fine trimming. The weight of these is 39g not counting the buds. That is to say, the initial total weight was reduced by 65%. In conclusion, I think using organic products is ideal to fully enjoy the smoke from this plant. In a few months, I will test how it behaves in warm temperatures and in a living soil that I have prepared. I believe it has very good resistance to stress, so it is ideal to practice mainlining or other high-stress training techniques. That's all. Any suggestions or comments are welcome! I hope you enjoyed this diary (more will come soon).