Can you help mee

Seems Like a Nutrient bunt, Had similar issues last grow, also an auto. Just flush her with Ph-Checked water, and you should be fine

Well for interest sake..I'm also growing an autoflowering strain..I did do extensive research, being a beginner grower.. This can happen because of multiple reasons..Firstly you need to consider if it isn't time to harvest her, she could be reaching the end of her lifespan, so definitely consider checking her tricomes to see if it's cloudy and 30% amber...depending on your desired result. Secondly I noticed your light schedule is abit hectic, especially during flowering, definitely can stress her out...leading to her turning into a hemie. My opinion is during the flowering stage, Darkness is key for soild production even though she's an autoflower. A 18/6 schedule will work wonders..2 hours extra doesn't seem much but it is bro, trust me lol. Lastly, you definitely should consider flushing her and stop giving her nutrients bro, otherwise all your hardwork will just give you an unpleasant smoke.. Good Luck with this issue.

Wormcasts are a good help to solve all kind of problems in your soil and plants life fast. Just put a good topping and maybe, don’t know if you did but i think you overdone the watering for a while…

Big Thanks to you Polyphemus

oh assumes good watering habits -- fertilize every irrigation with at least 10% runoff waste water -- can go outside but never in another potted plant. don't let the plants sit in their piss, either. Some elevators and proper drainage helps avoid root zone issues.

the website is removing basic formatting.. 1:1:2 for N:P:K -and- 4:2:1 for K:Ca:Mg just in case that part is garbled mess. normally in a 1.2-1.5 EC concentration but with elevated carbon going into plant you'll probably need more. Start at 1.5 and slowly go up based on observing the plant. Keep the same ratios, but do observe and react to any leaf symptoms. A tox or def can form over several weeks befoer you see it when your formula is very close to matching growth rate requirements. Take notes over the entire time even when things are going well. You may need to look back 2-3 weeks or even a month to better understand what you see today.

probably awnt closer to 1200-1300 ppm with 57+ DLI. If all the damage is on the top, it brings light intensity into the realm os possibility as the cause of what you see. You'll probably want 1.5-1.8 EC i'd wager with elevated CO2.. that's going to be trial and error... and also assumes the ratio of nutes are proper. Soilles ratios: 1-1-2 N:P:K 4-2-1 K:Ca:Mg Normally 1.2-1.5 EC range, but if you expect 20-30% more production with elevated CO2, you wil need elevated amounts of building blocls (fertilizer) to match the increased intake of Carbon from the atmosphere to realize that increased growth rate -- also, better have good climate control to utilize all that extra C too. That's based on american standards for labeling nutrients. e.g. "K" is made relative to potash on the label even if potash is not the source of K. Europe does something different with P or K,if i recall, so something to consider when applying this correctly. These would be weighted average values from your guaranteed analysis on each prodcut you mix together for your fertilizer. The ratios don't change much, but you will need soem trial and error to fine-tune it, nonetheless. Each garden has different variables and different rates of use that need to reach equilibrium. What it does give you is a very solid starting point from which any issues that arise are small and slow-progressing... and should be easily diagnosed. Take notes and adjust over time. By the 2nd grow of following this method of refining fertilizer formula, you'll be rocking out and rare see a leaf symptom EVER. It is very possible to rarely or never see a nutrient issue. Some damage in senescence can be unavoidable, but for the most part it should be very easy to feed several different plants and have amazing results. The formulas that cannot do this are clearly out of balance and relies on an individual plant's robustness to avoid issues.. some will mitigate tox/def better than others but they are all made of the same building blocks in very similar proportions. There's a reason why most similar plants to marijuana like the same stuff in similar ratios. Even different species of flowering soft-stemmed plants are very similar. those that t have to put a lot of effort into fertilization and diagnosing try to do it "their" way instead of following the science. At this point nobody is coming up with a formula that's any better based on a handful of plants in their basement.. silly to try.