Advice with LEDs unsura what to buy

Mars hydro, spider farmer, Viparspectra all have decent lights at a good price. I use an app to measure DLi called photone, I haven't Calibrated it so it's probably not accurate but for my grows I can hit 60DLi with minimal problems.

50-60 DLI if you ramp up to 1200-1300ppm of CO2... tightly control your temps and RH to maximize photosynthesis and plant's drinking, and you can push toward higher end of this range. get a regulator with an alarm or separate alarm for CO2... consider it dangerous and respect the potential risks.

If it has the samsung LM301 B or H diodes, it's easy to distinguish quality from crap. divide watts by total number of diodes (no worries if there are 1-5% of some other types, it won't be worth it to do a weighted average as it won't impact it much). Anything at or near 0.25watts per diode is how samsung tests and rates these diodes. This is the power the need to run at if you want to get 50,000 hours out of them. If run higher watts per didoe, they die faster. The 50k hours is a lie in that context, and they know it. HEat sink is another thing to look at... It doesn't take much. As long as it isn't incredibly thin or flimsy, it's probably enough for these amps/watts. get a "Bar" style vs a quantum board.. although a smaller space, like a 2x2, isn't as big of a difference. The bar style is the best distribution of light possible. Quantum boards are still okay, but if buying new, get the bar style. FC-3000 et al from Mars hydry are an excellent example of high efficiency, good heat sink. you'll see the diodes are run at 0.25watts/diode and that is no coincidence. The EVO chips are basically the better quality binning but then re-labeled and tesetd at .20watts per diode. You eke out a bit more efficiency, but compared to a well-made LM301b/h matching my suggestions above it'd be pennies per month saved, so the price difference should be minimal to justify jumping to the evo chip. LM301B and H are identical. they just slap a different package on them based on target market use of diode. You often see a premium price on H because people don't understand this tidbit and get bamboozled. i'd avoid other diodes, personally.. but osram has some decent diodes out there. Can always check original manufacturer's spec sheet.. .compare how many watts per diodes they are testing at with the light you are looking at... if drastically different, expect shorter life span, more heat and possibly lower efficiency than advertised agin, the math above is only relevant for the samsung lm301 chips.. if other chips are tested at .25w and .65mA, then that would be similar. https://download.led.samsung.com/led/file/resource/2022/05/Data_Sheet_LM301H_CRI80_Rev.5.4.pdf well, either they changed the spec sheets or i mis-remembered.. 0.2w / .65A / 6500K is the testing paramaters on their high-water mark specs. So, 0.2w is what you want to find to match the specs from samsung... anything that deviates will be worse than what samsung says.. this is an easy way to dsicern honesty of the light maker. Some like through their teeth, others are honest.

Max DLI is 35-40 with out CO2, if you want to add in CO2 you need to have the room sealed or it will all be vented out and wasted. This is harder as well as you need to have RH and temps in check as well without venting out so much. For any home grower I think standard atmospheric CO2 is just fine. Its slightly elevated in doors as we are making a bunch of it. but if it gets to high and you can get problems like headaches and other nasty things. Don't know much about that light, I use Medic Grow LEDS they provided to me, they do the trick. Cheep as well for the watts delivered. The Migro guys on YouTube did a review of their lights, not all models but two or three of their bigger ones. He does a lot of lighting reviews.