better learn to relax or the anxiety will just get worse through conditioning.
progression is slow, chill out. It is better to be patient and certain of the problem before doing a bunch of random shit to your plant. It's not about how you feel.. it's about reality.
diagnosing a plant is more art than science because numerous symptoms overlap with other deficiencies and toxicities.
your plant is healthy with some minor burnt tips on new growth. Unfortunately, this is one of those contexts with more than one potential cause. In fact both a deficiency and toxicity can cause this visible symptom.
The easy stuff -- pH can be ruled out due to overall health of the plant. There aren't numerous symptoms of differeing types, so nute lockout is unlikely too. A slight imbalance in your formula. You can google a 'marijuana leaf symptom chart'. The one with jorge cervantes's name on it has worke dwell for me. Even explains some stuff like the difference between mobile and immobile nutrients -- 1 way to help differentiate between similar symptoms that you see.
This is going to be high-anxiety until you get familiar with the symptoms and understand how they occur and how they progress. React slowly when allowed to -- a slow progression means you can be certain before taking action.
if it doesn't progress further, i wouldn't worry about it. If this is a soilless context, you can be much more precise about all of it, since you control 100% of the fertilizer that enters the substrate. Many manufacturers of soilles/hydro fertilizer setups at 1.3-1.5EC total concentration end up around ~ 120ppm N / 50-60 P / 180-200K / 100+ Ca / 50-80Mg / 100+ S ... these are loose ideas that represent a good starting point, but as with everything, trial and error is involved. The plant always dictates what to do.. never start with your intentions or some top down inductive dreck. Make it 100% about what you see and your best guess as to what caused it ... never self-absorbed stuff like wanting to give a certain volume of water instead of giving what is needed to get the entire thing wet with appropriate runoff relative to growing method. we do not pick this volume if we do it right.
Which leads to last thing just as a maybe -- watering habits. This is coco? but it comes with a light charge, and i'm assuming the nutes that pair with it are 100% soluble / 100% plant ready, since it is coco.. you'll have to double check this i can't look up every prodcut everyone uses. Anyway in this context you fertilize everytime wiht 10% runoff minimum. you give enoguh water for this to occur, you don't just whimsically decide to give 500mL/day or whatever. If you irrigate at same loss of weight from pot, it will require a similar volume, whatever it may be.. Allow top layer to dry, th en repeat... simple as that. don't OCD watering unless it's sticking to this procedure.
watering incompletely or superficially promotes infection as well as less useful superficial roots. By keeping good habits, roots drive downward and the wet-dry cycle promotes a robust root mass. You can increase fertigation frequency in flower and take advantage of that well groomed root mass later on.