High PPM levels using Remo Nutrition

There are solutes in your tap water, unless using RO, so that adds in too. It depends on what equipment your are using as far as what the PPM means. There are 3 or 4 ways to convert electrical conductivity to ppm, which is what a TDS meter does, so what seems like elevated levels may not be. Need to clear that up too. If on the "500" scale, it's too high in most contexts depending on how much your tap water is adding. A good safe starting point from which to adjust from is 1.3-1.5EC for soilless/hydro, which on 500scale would be 650-750 ppm. If you tap is adding ~300 ppm (this would be moderately "hard" water), you are not up to an range of 1050 / 2.1 EC. In this case, it would not be so bad. In soil it wildly varies depending on how many water-only irrigations you give between fertigations. You generally maintain much higher EC levels in soil because N and possibly P need help from microbes to break the ingredients down into something the plant can use. so you need enough 'inventory" for the microbes to be working on PLUS enough output relative to plant needs in those cases. In addition to watering habit differences this results in higher "healthy" EC levels in substrate 1900 ppm may have been converted from 2.7-3.8 EC, and that's too high in most contexts. The lower range might be fine for some soil contexts, but a soilless/hydro context would be way too high even considering potentially "hard" water elevating ppm with non-plant-nutritious solutes. https://www.perfectgrower.com/knowledge/knowledge-base/ec-to-ppm-conversion-chart/ You can see the variation of conversion factors used for TDS pens. Hanna, for example, uses the 500 scale. This is mostly regional. If in europe you are more likely to see different conversion scales used by equipment, but also brand of equipment sometimes have differences in the same region. If you see "hanna" in europe, that's most likely 500-scale even if most other equipment is different there. No matter what target EC you start out with (or nutrition chart), you need to observe and react to the plants and not general ideas of what "should be." These general ideas are good ballparks from which to start, but you still need to observe and adjust to your plant. The environment varies - lights, temps, rh%, atmospheric CO2 etc... So, how much fertilizer is needed varies by garden and even by season unless you tightly control such things year round. The ratios of needed nutes relative to any life stage will remain similar. I prefer to calculate my PPM from the guaranteed analysis labels. This eliminates guessing of what your tap is adding that is irrelevant... some of it is available Ca or Mg, but that'll be part of your trial and error process of adjustment. Primarily, you may need more or less Ca depending on your local tap water. I've used my hard tap water and my softened water. I never had to change my dosage of Ca, fwiw. Get familiar with ppm or ec, but when chatting with others about an issue, EC is more apples to apples. most companies instruct you to overfeed. It is in their interest to do so. You come back and buy more fertilizer that way, but if the plant shows symptoms, that is your guide to adjusting dosage. Damaged leaves = less photosynthesis = less yield.. no argument or gimmick that contradicts that is rational. take notes.. when you refine a formula, sometimes it takes weeks or even over a month before you see any repercussions of that change -- deficiencies or toxicities take longer to present themselves the closer you are to 'optimal' for your local garden variables. this process has less unknown with soilless/hydro context, but you do the same things, essentially, for soil too.