forgot to add the 2nd part to this paragraph --
"N is a good example to use because teh symptoms are usually pretty obvious for both tox and deficiency. The "optimal" amount that you need will vary by gentics and any type of incomplete research like the above is just a good idea to start with."
anyway, it's a good example because you can play with different levels of concentratioan and easily see in the weeks that unfold if it is too much or too little
your local environment, from lights to RH%, will dictate what concentrationis best, but you mostly need similar ratios of nutrients. I do find if i feed at 130ppm N throughout vege, i do need to drop it 10-20% in flower to avoid an N-tox that can creep in the last week or 2.. if at all (it was never a certainty, but somethign i wanted to avoid 100%). Shows the genetic diversity that does exist as most had no problem with it.
The other key here is that i had already had a steady formula, otherwise. If you move 2 dials, they often influenec other parts of the nutrient equation. Look up Mulder's Chart to see exactly how complicated it is. So, it's best to adjust one at atime to find an upper threshold that doesnt' cause problems. It may take another adjustment later when you tweak something else, but if only testingone thing at atime, it makes such side effects easier to mitigate.
trial and error.. fertilization is about weeks and months of behaviours culminating in the present... it is rarely what we did just last night that causes what we see today. even your physical watering habits are important... timing, frequency... runoff or not?