P and K depend on active transpot to enter the plant. The plant releases 'carrier proteins' that only attach to specific molecules -- we have a similar system in our digestive system too. Only a small portion enters through mass flow - indiscriminately with water diffusing into roots.
this is why recent studies show that after a certain point, there's no benefit to adding more P and K above critical levels around roots that make for unimpeded 'active transport' explained above.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/356286651_Optimisation_of_Nitrogen_Phosphorus_and_Potassium_for_Soilless_Production_of_Cannabis_sativa_in_the_Flowering_Stage_Using_Response_Surface_Analysis
As an axample - it is not 100% proof and it explains its own limitations if you do read it.
But, studies find you need the 'right' aboutn of p or k, not just add a shit ton and it magically gets better. There's a goldielocks zone that you want to maintain over time - even in vege.
there are facets that impact these numbers a bit -- e.g. the type of N you provide can vary. This test is using N that requires microbes to break it down which explains why it's much higher than other suggestions for N. also is 190mg/L isn't elemental ppm.
Your VPD will impact what you can amp it up to without toxicity symptoms. So, your garden will vary from another.
The plant's health is your best guide without lab equipment. When you give too little or too much relative to rate of growth, the plant makes it obvious. read and react... go ahead, add your pk-booster, but take notes about timing and concentration... realize that symptoms may take weeks to show. if you consistenly have a burnt up canopy 5-7 weeks into flower or even sooner, realize it's likely the pk booster or otherwise due teo your choices of fertilization. Let the plant decide or you are doomed to burnt up plants in flower in perpetuity.