DomForester

DomForester

Apprentice
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10
#8899
Global pos.
3
Diaries
2
Harvests
10
Followers
A 50%
Autoflower
P 50%
Photoperiod
67%
Indoor
33%
Outdoor
Dutch Passion
Breeders of choice:
75% Dutch Passion
25% Fast Buds
BioBizzWWO
Nutrients of choice:
87% BioBizzWWO
12% Zamnesia
Mars Hydro
Lights of choice:
100% Mars Hydro

DomForester
DomForester
DomForester
<span class="link_user">@DomForester</span>, Hihihi, that was the case here too. also that she&#039;s about the same height as the critical made it a perfect selection! Really looking forward to seeing the ladies developping :D
DomForester
DomForester
DomForester
<span class="link_user">@DomForester</span>, I don&#039;t know. If you&#039;ve been using relatively low amounts of fertilizer so far, then it&#039;s pretty straightforward to increase it slightly when something seems off. If the only symptom is pale leaves, increase the Grow fertilizer a bit. For most other deficiency signs, increase Bloom. There is a reason people often recommend using around 50% of the manufacturer&#039;s feeding schedule: in many cases, you simply won&#039;t notice any benefit from using more. Giving more nutrients than the plant actually needs will not increase yield or potency. Being slightly underfed isn&#039;t a big problem either, because it&#039;s easy to correct. Trying to push the absolute maximum nutrient level often just makes things harder. In my experience, plants tend to perform best when they are either slightly hungry or getting just enough. Some strains can even stay smaller or grow worse when overfed, while the same genetics may grow very well with a lighter feeding schedule. For products like Root Juice, Top Max and Bio Heaven, I do think you can notice a difference, but in my opinion they are too expensive for what they are. Root Juice can be replaced with pretty much any root stimulator that doesn&#039;t add much NPK, for example a kelp-based product. A lot of products simply get marketed specifically for cannabis and sold at a premium. Top Max can be replaced by adding one tablespoon of leonardite, potassium humate or humic acid powder and lightly working it into the top layer of soil around week 2 after switching to 12/12. The same goes for Bio Heaven. Add one or two tablespoons of alfalfa/lucerne meal or pellets and lightly work it into the top layer of soil around week 2 after the flip. Alg-A-Mic and Acti-Vera are, in my opinion, not really necessary when growing in soil. Side Note: Your plants had problems from the very beginning. I would use a different soil. you can also reuse soil multiple times if you add some fresh soil aswell.
DomForester
<span class="link_user">@DuschkabinenGrow</span>, this is super valuable stuff for me :) one question: i know roughly how to spot when more grow nutrients during veg are needed - how do i know when more bloom is needed during flower?
DomForester
<span class="link_user">@DomForester</span> Plants need calcium and magnesium during the whole grow. Plants need more of it under artificial light. Calcium and magnesium can block other nutrients or minerals. I do not care or know exactly which of them but since your plant does not show any signs of deficiency in CalMag, adding it can contribute to your problem. You can Google your local water supplier and get an analysis of how much calcium and magnesium it has. Your soil could also be prepared with calcium or magnesium by the manufacturer. That&#039;s why I am uncertain. Those are &quot;small&quot; plants. They do not need the full dosage. The ratio is more important. During my coco grow I&#039;ve actually seen the difference. As seedling they got to much calmag from my hard water and the ratio between calcium and magnesium was off. I have exact data of how much minerals or nutrients the plants need during each stage on my computer. Calculating with those seemed to be correct during that run. Feeding them on the lower end or with slight deficit resulted in the best result in that case. Indoors and outdoors I had the best results with less feeding. Side note: I have used Kelp and overdosed grow fertilizer during bloom and both resulted in the buds being leafy, therefore I personally would never use the &quot;light mix&quot; dosage from the nutrient chart. That&#039;s why I recommend less Grow fertilizer. You can easily spot If she needs more of it, and if you are on the lower edge of nutrient amount, you can react fast and with confidence (another side note: biobizz contains &quot;directly&quot; or fast available nutrients alongside the slower organic meal)
DomForester
<span class="link_user">@DomForester</span> , I cant say with the information I have. I think you know the pre flower signs for female plants and used that to remove the male plants. However, the last 3 pictures do not show female signs. But I can&#039;t say that without doubt. I am also interested to see if the topping in week 11 works. You wrote &quot;Light burn&quot;. Does that mean it&#039;s only a small amount of burn, or do you think the Light caused the burn? Because the pictures only show nutrient burn. At least in my opinion
DomForester
<span class="link_user">@DomForester</span>, All of them show some nutrient burn, you can see it on the burnt tips and edges. Some plants simply tolerate higher nutrient levels better than others, so the differences can be somewhat random. You seem to use a huge amount of fertilizer during veg, but i do not know how often you applied it. How often do you water them, and how much fertilizer do you add each time? Using fertilizer two times per week is enough. During veg, you usually don&#039;t need much fertilizer unless the leaves start getting pale or growth slows down. A small dose every now and then is often enough. For example, you could gradually work up to around 3 ml/L Grow during veg and keep it there until the first flowers appear. Then slowly replace some of the Grow fertilizer with Bloom: After 12/12: Week 2: 2 ml/L Grow + 1 ml/L Bloom Week 3–4: 1 ml/L Grow + 2 ml/L Bloom Afterwards: 1 ml/L Grow + 3 ml/L Bloom If you don&#039;t see any deficiencies, there&#039;s no reason to increase the dosage. Increase Grow if the leaves become noticeably pale, and adjust Bloom if necessary later on. Being slightly low on nutrients is usually easier to correct than overfeeding. The slightly burnt tips aren&#039;t a big problem, though. I wouldn&#039;t worry too much, they should still turn out fine. For now, I&#039;d give them plain, pH-adjusted water for about a week, then continue with a small/normal nutrient dose around twice a week. The plant showing the stronger symptoms looks a bit different. That could be stress, root-zone problems, a general nutrient imbalance, or possibly a pH-related lockout. More light could make the stress worse, but this doesn&#039;t look like light burn to me. If you put a plant 5 cm below a light at 100% power, you&#039;ll see what actual light burn looks like. For that plant, I&#039;d probably use plain, pH-adjusted water for up to two weeks and sometimes aim for a little runoff, around 10%. I would also stop using CalMag. They don&#039;t need the extra calcium and magnesium, and it may be contributing to the imbalance. Since you&#039;re already using a complete fertilizer that contains everything the plant needs, you generally don&#039;t need to diagnose and supplement every individual nutrient separately. For comparison, after stretch I was giving my plant in a 19 L pot around 3–4 L of water every three days. So overwatering could also be a possibility, although I can&#039;t tell for sure from this information alone. And don&#039;t worry too much about a possible male plant. If you check them daily, pollen sacs are usually easy to spot early enough to remove the plant. It can be a little more difficult under a SCROG, though. Disclaimer: I&#039;m not an expert, but this is genuinely what I think is happening and how I would personally handle it.
DomForester
<span class="link_user">@DuschkabinenGrow</span>, loving the detailed advice!! thank you! i did indeed feed too much during veg and only re-read the manufacturers advice (and then tuned it down to around the levels youre suggesting) when one of the Purples in the tent was getting serious toxicity - the outdoor ones were eating it up no problem. good to know that calmag isnt needed (not as much or not at all?) during flower. will do a couple rounds with plain ph’d water. theyre currently getting around 5l each every 4-5 days (25l pot), judging by leaf posture and pot weight. always ph adjusted. dont think overwatering is an issue during this run.
DomForester
<span class="link_user">@DuschkabinenGrow</span>, you think it’s nutrient burn? it only happened on one and theyre all getting the same feeding. and that one was under pretty close light for a day before i adjusted it upwards. any specific nutrients you suspect this might be? i had N toxicity on another plant before and that looked vastly different.
DomForester
<span class="link_user">@DuschkabinenGrow</span>, which one were you referring to? check my latest update - im pretty sure (now) theyre all female