flexy123

@@Blacklisted, God you're even ranting despite Zamnesia offering you to send another package, mind you, something free. And you continue to rant despite Zamnesia having little to do what is going on with your mail. If you call or email Zamnesia, how should THEY know where your package is? If you got a paper slip for delivery (as you said), you should know what the carrier is. (DHL??). And then call them and look there. Your package isn't delivered by Zamnesia, but by the mail carrier. Why does this need to be explained to an adult? Cheezus....

@@@Blacklisted, I am sorry for what happened to you - but why are you blaming Zamnesia for what DHL does? WTF man! Zamnesia or whoever sends a package has nothing to do with how the post works and they have nothing to do with how DHL delivers packages or if a mail carrier loses a package. How is it Zamnesia's fault? As soon as they give up packages, what happens with the package is on DHL and Zamnesia has very little to do with it. They are a seed company, not a mail delivery service. Cheezus Christ....

@YOREEL, You can try. But tricky with those long-term fertilizers. Some may release vegging nutes for a month or so and then flowering nutes later. Also..I don't know these nutes, but if they're organic it is very likely it takes time to activate. So if your plants start to flower (where they would need most nutes) and you add fresh pellets which will take a few weeks until they give off nutes...that would be a problem. From what I see, most of these long-term nutes are best for autos indoors...and maybe 2-3 months max. If you grow outdoors, and then for a long time...you would require specially coated nutes where you know these give off goodies even after months vegging. And I am sure that most of these long-term nutes for hobbygrowers can't do that. They are also not designed for outdoor grows, eg. heat in the sun etc. will also accelerate how fast they deplete. On the other hand, I mean you can try.

@Joestar, Absolutely, especially if you're growing autos! I had really shitty soil from the market which had problems taking water. Have one plant in there which does very poorly. (If you water, you see it takes 10-15mins just for the water to soak in...BAD). Add a "handful" of perlite (about 10%) and some coco (maybe 20% of coco I'd say), and soil has gotten PERFECT. Especially good for autos where you want your soil a little airier and fluffier.

@YOREEL, People need to chill. Didn't someone ask where the package is only one day after the contest? Everyone is working from home currently, so there are delays like anywhere else right now. Some folks may also be off for Easter/spring holidays. And don't forget, post is also delayed.

Hi @Zamnesia @Zammi_official, is this for Zamnesia brand seeds or can we select any seed from the Zamnesia site? ty!

I am looking forward to see the other folks' reports about Growcaps. My own grow unfortunately may not turn out so well, but I don't want to blame this on growcaps. (I mentioned elsewhere here on the comments that I ran into troubles with the 11L pots too big for tiny seedlings, resulting in root problems etc.) I am seeing heavy N deficiency on one plant, and the other plant looks better, but also starting to show N deficiency. They are still in veg. I am only using 6.5ph water and of course the caps are in the substrate, this is a test grow.. Then again, I am growing in a relatively untypical setting: This is an outdoor/roof grow in Spain, means the plants endure crazy heat, and vegging period is now going on 2-3 months. Furthermore I had problems with cats eating some leaves when the plants were still tiny. It is likely that in a typical indoor setting, with more moderate temps and a shorter veg period the growcaps would work better. (It is known that long-term nutrients release nutrients faster in hotter temps, and my outdoor temps are just waaaayyyy to high in general, despite me using a sun shade.) Indoors, a typical veg phase also isn't 2-3 months. So I think this all plays a role in my case. Anyway, looking forward to what results other people have. Also..some people asking about Autos. I *think* that the caps should be especially suitable for Autos since the veg period is shorter. This would avoid that the nutrients "run out" since they can't release indefinitely. Other long-term nutrients normally have information on how long they work (depending on soil temps), and we don't have this information with growcaps. Common sense tells me they might release matching the length of a typical grow, say 60-90 days or so. (Of course I am only speculating here). So should def. work for Autos and any normal grows, IMO. G.

Hey! I am fortunate that I got samples from Growcaps as part of my job, so I am probably one of the few ones who had an early chance to test them. I started two outdoor grows where I prepared everything following to instructions, in 11L pots with a bag growcaps in each. They used normal universal substrate in the videos, so I did the same thing. The grows are well under way, but here is what I noticed: In the video they say "put in your seedling" which I did, but here is the issue: A tiny seedling in a 11L pot is a problem, especially since the growcaps instructions also require that you water the pot *well* before you put it in. The substrate holds moisture well (the granules turn into some sort of jelly), and besides me having the pots out in the heat and sun and only watering once a little once per week, the pots stay moist long. In the seedling phase, this could be a problem. From the two strains, one looks fine, the other showed a N deficiency at the lowest set of leaves. I attribute the N deficiency not to the product itself, but to the large pot size which is too big for seedlings and holds too much water for them. (Obviously I water with the correct pH, 6.5) This observation makes me think that the original growcaps instructions are likely not optimal, UNLESS you grow autos. You simply don't want to put a 1" seedling into a fully watered 11L pot. I would recommend that you use the caps in the recommended dose (2g per liter as it says on their site), but you start out in small cups as with any normal grow but up-pot later. (And each time you use the caps in the recommended dosage, depending on what size pot you use). Just don't *start* a grow in a 11L pot. This are my observations so far, several weeks into my test grow. Obviously, as the plants grow, they drink more, and I expect the root zone getting healthier because of that. I do think that the N deficiency which I had with that one plant will go away on its own. TLDR: growcaps instructions say start your seedling in a 11L pot, but a pot that large fully watered could lead to issues