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GinaS
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#19192
Global pos.
1
Harvests
#19192
Global pos.
1
Diaries
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Harvests
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Growing, years
NA
Region
A
16%
Autoflower
100%
Indoor
Breeder preferred:
100%
G13 Labs
Light preferred:
100%
Mars Hydro
Nutrient preferred:
75%
Fox Farm
75%
Botanicare
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GinaS
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First Grow Ever
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First Grow Ever
GinaS
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First Grow Ever
GinaS
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First Grow Ever
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Lemon Mimosa Auto
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CBDCrack
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@GinaS
, It is good to hear you are getting a new light. However, it can be quite a shock on the plants to transition from one type of light to another. I would suggest introducing, the new light to your room while your original light is still in and having it dialed down, and slowly dialing up the new light as your plant gets used to it. The amount of PAR our lights put out is measured at certain distances from the plants. So if we have a light capable of 1100 PAR @ 12'' then once we begin to have it higher than that we will lose the numbers the light is able to put out. This is why I strongly suggest getting a good PAR meter to read the amount your light is putting onto your plant in real time & a thermal laser temp gun like the fluke 64 MAX to read the temperatures on the tops of your plants as you move your lights closer. This can sometimes create a little heat pocket that we use fans to blow at the lights to remove from above the plants. Sungrip light pulleys are great for dialing in our light distances very accurately and easily. It may seem like a lot to get a PAR meter & thermal laser temp gun but at the end of the day we are spending money on nutrients & electricity to grow our beloved medicine and we want to make sure we are getting the most bang for our buck. For that reason, These pieces of equipment will pay themselves off within 1 crop. It is really no problem! Anytime you need help feel free to follow my profile & DM me or legacymarketfarmsUSA
GinaS
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that 100W Fluorescent light is gonna be giving you like really really low PAR on the top of that plant. that is why it is growing so slowly, At that distance, it is not going to be able to give the plant much useful PAR to photosynthesize. Would you be alright with me giving you some pointers to help out? So if we are going to make it work with that light we are going to need to get it much closer, Just to finish this plant off then we are going to want to buy a new light. Fluro's can work fine for early veg if we keep them super close but they really will not pack the power for a solid flower cycle in my opinion. There are some VERY cost-effective LEDs out there you can get on amazon. Avoid blurple lights and make sure they are giving you an accurate wattage rating. For most tent growers 100-400W LED's are more than enough power. I see you are in a 2-gallon planter as well, That COULD be a little restrictive & root bound by now, Generally, we want to use 3 gallons for autoflowers. This might be attributing to the slow growth but I see now die-off on the plant yet. Cannabis plants love heat and humidity, The buds hate it. In veg we can exploit this for better growth if we aim for temps of 79-84 MAX & no more than 9 degrees less with lights off. It is important in veg and early flower to keep our temperature gaps close between lights on and lights off or we will trigger our plant to stretch more than we want it to. To better understand how important temperature and humidity play a role together please go read this article about VPD, Vapor pressure deficit & how it relates to cannabis growing, All new growers should learn this from the start. https://cerescann.com/importance-of-measuring-vpd/ I also suggest you get a PAR meter and a thermal temp laser gun to better read your plants and grow to their needs. This equipment helps us dial our lights to plant distance optimally and get the most potential from our lights. When we enter flower & get to around week 4-6 depending on strain, Autoflowers we watch for it by eye but at this point our plants have generally finished their vertical growth & have now focused on forming up bud. At this stage we can now begin to introduce wider temperature swings into our room more than 10 degrees less with lights off & our plants will respond by sending more energy into the budding process and resin production. When we are in flower we do not want our temps with lights on to be any more than 77-80 MAX. If our rooms are too warm we will get big airy buds with not much resin, If our rooms are too cold we go in the other direction really dense caked nugs but they are small. We want size + density. If you have any questions please feel free to follow my profile & shoot me a DM anytime. Our youtube is also linked to my grow diaries profile, We are currently producing a youtube tutorial series for all levels of growers I suggest you head over and subscribe to get notifications when it releases. If you would like to see these methods used on plants from a young age please go follow our USA rep, LegacyMarketFarmUSA, Over here on growdiaries as well! We will help get you on track.
GinaS
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Schaut sehr gut aus , weiter so !
GinaS
commented
@LegacyMarketFarm
, thank you so much for all the advice it is much needed and appreciated 😊 I actually ha e a new light on the way its supposed be here next monday. Do I put it in the with the other light and have both lights on? And if so do they still need to be moved closer to the plant or is that just for while I only have the one light?
GinaS
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First Grow Ever
GinaS
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First Grow Ever
GinaS
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First Grow Ever
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First Grow Ever
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Blue Dream
FLO
5
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Seedsman Blueberry Windowsill
HAR
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AnneJ Wanted Gold!
HAR
26
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Looking good ✌️🌱🌱
GinaS
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Looks good and green healthy and starting to bush out . I would veg another couple weeks for nice nice bush but that's good as is.. keep that soil / coco moist .. . Killer good work for your first grow ..feed her heavy and watch her grow . Best of luck
GinaS
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You are doing great. if you have any questions feel free to ask me anytime. Check out my 200 light 7,000 plant diary and follow my profile. I am producing a youtube tutorial series to be released soon on my youtube channel make sure to sub as well. Happy growing friend!