<span class="link_user">@monikers22</span>
, Just went back to check dates on the pictures and they're 4 days apart (It's the same plant). The other pictures do obscure the stem structure, and the 7Liter airpot's tiny diameter makes things look a lot larger than they really are. Apart from that the Banana Punch DID have some of the best stem genetics I've ever had. Even the lateral branches were VERY sturdy!
Good luck with your next run bro, 12/12 was very fun! If the laws here allowed for more plants I'd have one extra tent running this all the time!
<span class="link_user">@Danylo</span>, okay. but on week 4 you show different plants on photos. one plant has side stalks almost as thick as the main stem and the main stem looks like it's about 2cm in diameter. It looks more like a 6 week old plant, not 4 week old, am I mistaken? Anyway, this is very impressive for such small grow box. I like the idea of 12-12 from seed for small grow space, to have it start flowering as soon as it's mature enough. Will try to re-create your experiment as I did run into issues in the past, from plant obesity to height issues in a limited height grow box.
<span class="link_user">@Danylo</span>, "At this exact point I also feed an extra 200mg/L of MonoKaliumPhosphate (0-52-34) for two waterings." - what was the observed benefit of it? The study you mentioned says P and K had practically no effect on yield.
<span class="link_user">@monikers22</span>
Specific answer first:
My plants get two different ratios of NPK:
A) During veg and until _after_ flower stretch (when the plant has stopped growing its frame completely for a few days) they get about 24-8-18 N-P-K.
B) After stretch I switch to 21.4 - 10.4 - 20.4 . At this exact point I also feed an extra 200mg/L of MonoKaliumPhosphate (0-52-34) for two waterings.
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Unfortunately, due to the plant being illegal for a long time, a lot of the conventional wisdom around nutrition is not very accurate. Some of it is straight broscience or even fantasy.
1) You don't really need to reduce Nitrogen by a large amount, the plant still needs it to build fresh chlorophyll (which is rather fragile) as well as adenosine triphosphate (ATP). The last thing you want in late flower is yellowed-out leafs that can't do photosynthesis and just chill there, blocking direct light from reaching other parts of the plant that could. More metabolism = more metabolites. (eg. cannabinoids/terpenes)
There is some research that indicates that severe nitrogen deprivation during flower can increase cannabinoid/terpene concentration per volume/weight. This heavily reduces overall yield unfortunately and I have never tried it because it seems somewhat complicated to get just right.
2) The plant actually needs quite a bit less phosphorous than a lot of the conventional wisdom would suggest. (Unless you are making seeds - that process needs a little more AFAIK)
I wouldn't believe just some guy on the internet, and you should neither. So as an example I added one very good study on nutrients during the flowering process:
A) Bevan, Lewys & Jones, A. & Zheng, Youbin. (2021). Optimisation of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium for Soilless Production of Cannabis sativa in the Flowering Stage Using Response Surface Analysis. Frontiers in Plant Science. 12. 764103. 10.3389/fpls.2021.764103.
PDF here : https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/plant-science/articles/10.3389/fpls.2021.764103/full
...this study was done by the "School of Environmental Sciences, University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada" they do some really cool research! Another good source for information are Shiponi and Bernstein from the "Institute of Soil Water and Environmental Sciences, Volcani Center"
<span class="link_user">@monikers22</span>
Specific answer first:
My plants get two different ratios of NPK:
A) During veg and until _after_ flower stretch (when the plant has stopped growing its frame completely for a few days) they get about 24-8-18 N-P-K.
B) After stretch I switch to 21.4 - 10.4 - 20.4 . At this exact point I also feed an extra 200mg/L of MonoKaliumPhosphate (0-52-34) for two waterings.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unfortunately, due to the plant being illegal for a long time, a lot of the conventional wisdom around nutrition is not very accurate. Some of it is straight broscience or even fantasy.
1) You don't really need to reduce Nitrogen by a large amount, the plant still needs it to build fresh chlorophyll (which is rather fragile) as well as adenosine triphosphate (ATP). The last thing you want in late flower is yellowed-out leafs that can't do photosynthesis and just chill there, blocking direct light from reaching other parts of the plant that could. More metabolism = more metabolites. (eg. cannabinoids/terpenes)
There is some research that indicates that severe nitrogen deprivation during flower can increase cannabinoid/terpene concentration per volume/weight. This heavily reduces overall yield unfortunately and I have never tried it because it seems somewhat complicated to get just right.
2) The plant actually needs quite a bit less phosphorous than a lot of the conventional wisdom would suggest. (Unless you are making seeds - that process needs a little more AFAIK)
I wouldn't believe just some guy on the internet, and you should neither. So as an example I added one very good study on nutrients during the flowering process:
A) Bevan, Lewys & Jones, A. & Zheng, Youbin. (2021). Optimisation of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium for Soilless Production of Cannabis sativa in the Flowering Stage Using Response Surface Analysis. Frontiers in Plant Science. 12. 764103. 10.3389/fpls.2021.764103.
PDF here : https://www.frontiersin.org/journals/plant-science/articles/10.3389/fpls.2021.764103/full
...this study was done by the "School of Environmental Sciences, University of Guelph, Guelph, ON, Canada" they do some really cool research! Another good source for information are Shiponi and Bernstein from the "Institute of Soil Water and Environmental Sciences, Volcani Center"
<span class="link_user">@Danylo</span>, my main concern is, in your 12-12 experiment, when do you switch from Nitrogen diet to Phosphorus/Potassium diet? Is it week 4? Or is there some visual cues you await for, that tell you to start giving Phosphorus dominant feed?
<span class="link_user">@monikers22</span>, I mix most of my fertilizer myself. (This way it costs basically nothing) If you'd like I can post a rough guide on what I use when. This will probably be a large wall of text though!