Spyder7

@DeadwebsiteBoringcommunity,you said ppfd = more yield "simple as that." All I did was point out that it actually isn't that simple and the "I'm just gonna grow more than you" is not a counter argument unless you are like 5. Whatever dude.

@DeadwebsiteBoringcommunity, in theory, "ppfd=yield" until you take into account other factors. One factor is the growing room. If you put my light into a black nylon tent without the reflective walls, so that you had zero reflectivity, you're not going to get the same yield I'll get in a grow tent with mylar even though the PPFD is the same. And I've read that the mylar in a modern tent is so good that it multiplies your PPFD by 25-33% depending on type and how much its reflecting (how close it is to the light). Other factors are humidity and heat. Both can impact yield all by themselves. So can grow techniques and nutrients. So you're being reductionist to the point that you're wrong - there are too many other variables that have nothing to do with pppf but will impact yield. There's truth to what you say to a point, but not to the degree you make it so I disagree. That's the problem with reductionist reasoning: it is too simplistic and it does't take into account variables that matter.

@DeadwebsiteBoringcommunity, Its not a pure COB. These are the actual specifications: Product Specification [LED Qty] 28pcs 5w Bridgelux/Epileds + 1pcs 10w Cree COB [HID Replacement] Replaces 150W HPS/MH [Input Voltage] AC100-240V [Avg. Power Draw] 62±3W [Core Coverage Area] 1.5x 1.5ft at 24" Height [Max Coverage Area] 2.0x 2.0ft at 24" Height [Dimensions] φ6.9x 2.4 inches [Item Weight] 2.1lb [Lifespan] 50000h [Frequency] 50-60Hz [Warranty] 2 years So there's a single 10W Cree COB in the center surrounded by 28 mostly red and blue lights. I think there's a single green LED. And I believe it has one or more UV and IR LEDs within that count too. That's how it produces that spectral ratio.

@DeadwebsiteBoringcommunity, good question. The manufacturer gives a spectral graph and a light count. They specify the ratio as 53.4% Red, 36.9% blue, 9.7% green. I don't think its short because of a lack of blue spectrum. CKS says this is a dwarf strain, and I began training it (first with LST) at 5". Then I super cropped everything but fan branches later and topped it (accidentally). So I think its short mostly because of genetics and because daily plant training has kept it short. Also, the HST really seemed to put the breaks on growth and the plant seemed to put its energy elsewhere as every time it got an inch or two of fresh growth somewhere during the first week of the stretch, I super cropped and then LST'd. And this week, despite plans just to LST, I'm still super-cropping to control height, as it can work better than just LST (I'm using both). So I think its genetics and training.

@DeadwebsiteBoringcommunity, I've learned a lot about LEDs and this great little light since my first grow. I'd forgotten how strong it could be and burned some leaves early this grow, but since then I've been managing it more carefully. Looking back at my first grow now, it took as long as it did largely because I was too cautious with the light; this grow I've had it more "in the zone" I think, and this plant seems to be maturing faster. It still won't be ready in the 7 weeks CKS advertises, but I'm thinking this one will finish within 10-11 weeks (total), which I would be pretty happy with. Completely dialed in, I think it could pull close to a gram per watt from the wall, or close to 2 ounces, though it might take a high yielding XL strain to see it. But I'm hoping for at least 45 grams, which would put it on par with what an equivalent HPS light could do, and I think its attainable. I didn't have a scale to weigh my last grow, but I will have one this time before its ready to harvest.

Soo my friend just so you better understand just how awesome you are doing with that little light... When I tested Both models I have. 55 watts power draw each. Very light little lights that perform.. I love the thought your putting into the hang height as well seems like your really trying to find a nice bang on number.. Great work really.

@IndigenousOrganics, my auto seemed to be lagging this grow as well until I lowered the light a few inches on day 27.When I looked a few hours later it had sprouted pre-flowers. Had I done it a week before it would have burned the plant (and did). But once the plant is ready to flip, it just needs something to trigger the flower: bloom nutes, 12/12, and light intensity are the usual 3 if its ready (despite the "12/12 from seed" moniker, even if you grow 12/12 from seed the plant will still complete its seedling stage before it flowers), CFLs are still used to grow weed all by themselves, so adding it should shorten flower time. Good luck! Harvest day is a hard day to top. My first grow was 94 days I think, and it felt like one hell of a journey I learned so much that grow. The second time it is much, much easier (my plant has survived a fungal infection and an accidental topping this grow and is still going strong).

@Spyder7, Ah sorry. Anyway, I have a blooming auto now. I lowered the lights and have been blasting it. The CFL arrived today and that should hopefully boost it. I've lowered humidity. Looking good. Thanks for your help!

@IndigenousOrganics,they gave me a female avatar and I haven't bothered to upload a custom one. The site didn't let me choose my gender - it just gave me a female icon and I haven't bothered changing it yet. I'm a guy though.

@IndigenousOrganics,I've seen attempts to grow cannabis under 35W CFLs, but I don't know if any of them were actually able to grow it to harvest. You need very little light for seedligs and not much more for veg. At one point, I considered doing something that would get me closer to a "perpetual harvest" and I looked at lights like that for the seedling and early veg phase. Their problem is light intensity. At each stage of its life, cannabis (including autos) needs a certain light intensity or it will simply never reach it. Having all of the wattage in the red spectrum may do it as flower requires a lot more red, but ultimately it depends on whether or not the light ca n put out enough energy for the photosynthesis needs of the plant in flower. I'm not sure if it can. If you look at those lights on Amazon, you'd be hard pressed to find one that can put out more than a couple hundred umol/s of photosynthetic energy. That's enough for a seedling or even to veg, but not enough for flower where the plant needs 600 umol/s just to flower and more to finish. Can that small light put out that much light intensity even in pure red? If it can't, nothing you do will make that plant flower until you provide it with more light. Maybe you need to be resourceful here and make a trip to the hardware store for a CFL bulb to fit a standard fixture, then attach the bulb to a desk lamp and use that to help finish the grow. That's one option, though if you go that route, makes sure it puts out the right spectrum (I think you need more "natural" looking light in flower and not "pure white" types of bulbs). You'd be better off sticking with the sun for now if you have nothing else to supplement with, rather than reducing light by putting it in the closet on a 12/12; it doesn't need 12/12. It needs more light.

My last grow, which was also my first grow, I became very cautious with the LED after bleaching the plant in veg; so much so, that it "stalled" until I lowered the light. Looking at your light, I'm thinking either you're stalled because it isn't close enough to get the light intensity it needs to finish; or your light isn't strong enough for it to flower under (or it may not put out enough usable red light). So I would try moving the light closer slowly (half an inch every couple days), until you see light stress (leaves cupping) then back it off to the height the day before. If its as close as you can get it without light burn, then you need a second or stronger light. More light is always good as more light equals more yield.

@Jofis,you just listed the three main nutrients in soil (abbreviated NPK) as well as the minor minerals. If it sounds like its a little because its in 50L of soil, its worth keeping in mind that nutrients are often dosed at rates like "1 ml/L" or "0.5 gram/L" (two actual examples from my last grow). So your soil is already fertilized and to a degree that it may be "hot" - once it gets big enough to start up-taking water, you may find nutrient burn from soil that has too much fertilizer. Or you may be fine. That's another reason to add nothing for 3 weeks: if your soil is "hot" (too fertilizer rich), your going to see the nute burns from it within the next 3 weeks and you'll know its your soil. If you add nutes now instead and get burn, you're not going to know what caused it and its going to be worse. I would decide on a nutrient brand, pick the base nutes, and feed at half strength beginning on day 21 and stay at half strength but follow their regimen. A lot of people over complicate this and wind up with nute burn, lockout, and single digit harvests to show for it. I grow in a tent, under an LED, so I can't answer questions about sunlight as I've never tried it nor researched it and the methods aren't quite the same (unlike the sun, my LED is stationary, for instance).

@Spyder7, Nitrogen 1536mg/L phosphate 150mg/L potassium 220mg/L And real small quantities of: zinc iron manganese boron copper.... In 50L of soil At this moment it’s inside of the house should it get direct sun?