Your Guide to Hydroponic Substrates

Unlike traditional soil-based growing, hydroponics lets your cannabis plants thrive without dirt, but that doesn’t mean you can just throw some seeds in water and hope for the best. You need something to keep them upright, ensure they get oxygen, and help their roots absorb nutrients efficiently. That’s where hydroponic substrates come in.

Think of these substrates as the foundation of a skyscraper. Without the right base, even the most promising cannabis can topple over — literally and figuratively. 

From clay pellets to coco coir, each growing medium has its quirks, advantages, and a few headaches to consider. Some drain too fast, some hold moisture like a sponge, and others need constant babysitting. Pick the wrong one, and you’re in for a frustrating growing cycle.

But don’t worry — this guide is here to help. Whether you’re a first-time hydro grower or a seasoned pro looking to fine-tune your setup, we’ll break down the best substrates so you can keep your plants stable, oxygenated, and thriving.

Understanding Hydroponics

Growing cannabis — or any plant — using hydroponics means ditching soil and delivering nutrients directly to the roots through water. Since the roots don’t have to search for food like they would in soil, they get their nutrients almost instantly. 

But don’t picture your plants just floating around helplessly in a tank of water. Instead, they’re anchored in an inert medium like Rockwool, which gives them structure while allowing their roots to stretch into a nutrient-rich reservoir.

Now, hydroponic systems can vary. Some flood the roots with a nutrient solution before draining it, while others use a drip system to feed the plant gradually. But no matter the method, the key is always the same: the roots must be directly exposed to aerated water, getting all their oxygen and nutrients from that source.

To maximize nutrient absorption, hydro growers typically use synthetic, ionic, salt-based nutrients. These are absorbed faster than organic matter, giving plants a direct and efficient food source. 

However, they do come with a downside — overfeeding can be a real issue, and they’re not great for soil ecosystems if you ever switch back to traditional growing. But in a hydro setup, these nutrients outperform organic options.

One thing you can’t overlook in hydroponics is aeration. Since the roots are submerged in water, they need a constant oxygen supply to prevent suffocation. That’s why hydro growers rely on air stones and pumps to keep the water oxygenated. Without proper aeration, your plants won’t last long — roots need oxygen just as much as they need nutrients.

The Role of Growing Media in Hydro Systems

Even though soil isn’t part of hydroponics, plants still need something to hold them up. Without a substrate, they’d be a tangled, drooping mess with no way to grow upright. A good substrate keeps the cannabis stable while allowing the roots to reach the water below. It also ensures that while the roots are submerged, the rest of the plant stays dry and healthy.

But what to look for when picking the right growing medium for your cannabis? Here are some factors you must keep in mind.

• Water Retention and Drainage

A good substrate should hold onto moisture just enough to keep the roots hydrated between feedings but not so much that it drowns them. Too much retention can lead to waterlogged roots and poor oxygen flow, which can seriously mess up your plants. 

The best substrates strike a balance — draining excess water quickly while still holding enough moisture for the roots to absorb when needed.

• Oxygenation

Roots don’t just need water; they need oxygen, too. Without proper airflow, they’ll suffocate, and your plant will suffer. That’s why a good hydroponic substrate should have a porous or aerated structure to keep air circulating around the roots. This helps prevent root rot and encourages strong, healthy growth.

• Nutrient Retention (CEC - Cation Exchange Capacity)

Some substrates can hold onto nutrients like potassium, calcium, and magnesium, slowly releasing them into the root zone. This ability, known as Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), affects how efficiently your plants receive nutrients. 

Depending on your feeding schedule and hydro system, you may want a substrate with a high or low CEC to control how quickly nutrients are delivered.

• Weight and Stability

Not all substrates weigh the same, and this can impact your setup. Lightweight options like perlite are easy to handle but may need extra support to keep your plants from tipping over. 

Heavier choices, like expanded clay pellets, provide better stability but can add significant weight to your system. If you’re working with a large or vertical setup, this is something to consider.

• Reusability and Sustainability

Some substrates can be cleaned and reused multiple times, which saves money and reduces waste. Others are single-use, meaning you’ll need to replace them regularly. If sustainability matters to you, look for renewable or eco-friendly options with minimal environmental impact. Reusable substrates not only cut down on waste but also keep long-term costs in check.

Best Hydroponic Growing Mediums

Now that you know why hydroponic substrates matter and what makes a good one, let’s break down the best options. Each medium has its pros and cons, so your choice depends on your setup, preferences, and how hands-on you want to be.

1. Clay Pellets

Expanded clay pellets, also known as hydroton or LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate), are among the top choices for hydroponic cannabis growers. These tiny, round clay balls are heated and expanded to create a porous structure, making them excellent for aeration.

If you're running a deep water culture (DWC) system, clay pellets are a solid pick because they're lightweight yet sturdy enough to support your cannabis plants. That’s why they’re also commonly mixed into soil in traditional setups. 

Their structure allows for great airflow around the roots, reducing the chances of root rot. They also provide a friendly environment for beneficial microbes that aid in root development. Clay pellets are easy to clean and reuse, making them cost-effective in the long run. Plus, they don't clog up hydro systems as easily as some other media. 

However, there are a few drawbacks. They aren’t the best at holding water, which means you’ll need to keep a close eye on your feeding schedule. Also, they can be pricey, especially if you're in a region where they aren’t widely available.

Another thing to watch out for is the powdery residue that comes with unwashed pellets. If you go for a cheaper batch, you'll have to sterilize and rinse them thoroughly before use. To save yourself the hassle, opt for pre-washed, pH-balanced clay pellets — they’re worth the extra cost.

2. Rockwool Cubes

Rockwool has been a staple in hydroponics since the 1950s. This medium is made by spinning molten basalt rock into fibers, creating a sponge-like material that’s great at retaining water while allowing plenty of airflow to the roots.

One major perk of Rockwool is its compact nature. If space is an issue, these cubes are a great option because they fit together tightly, maximizing your grow area. They’re also pH-neutral and don’t leach unwanted nutrients into your system.

Since Rockwool doesn’t provide nutrients on its own, you have full control over what your cannabis plants receive. Plus, if you use it correctly, you won’t have to worry about drainage or runoff issues. That’s why it’s a favorite among both beginners and experienced growers.

However, Rockwool has its downsides. While it’s great at holding moisture, it can be tough for roots to penetrate at first. Some growers report slower root development in the beginning, but after a few weeks, the roots break through, and growth picks up.

Another drawback is its synthetic nature. Unlike organic options like coco coir, Rockwool isn’t biodegradable, so disposal can be an issue if sustainability is a concern. Still, if you’re after a reliable, easy-to-use medium, Rockwool is a solid contender.

3. Coco Coir

Coco coir (or coco peat) is a natural hydroponic medium made from coconut husks. This organic material has been used in agriculture for centuries, and for a good reason — it holds water well while still allowing oxygen to reach the roots.

One of coco coir's biggest advantages is that it naturally contains beneficial nutrients. This means your plants get an initial boost without needing extra fertilizers right away. Plus, its water retention capabilities reduce the need for constant watering, making it a low-maintenance option.

However, coco coir isn’t completely inert, which can be a downside for some growers who want total control over nutrients. In the early stages, your roots may even struggle to push through, which is why some people prefer to mix it with other media like perlite for better aeration.

Another thing to keep in mind is transplanting. When removing plants from coco coir, you need to be extra careful with the roots. If they get damaged too much, your plant could go into transplant shock, slowing its growth — or worse, killing it.

Lastly, while coco coir retains moisture well, it can also dry out quickly if left unattended. If you go with this medium, make sure you keep a close eye on hydration levels. That said, if you’re looking for a sustainable, beginner-friendly option, coco coir is an excellent choice.

4. Perlite

Perlite is a volcanic rock that expands into lightweight, porous white spheres when heated to high temperatures. Thanks to its ability to hold both water and air simultaneously, it’s been a trusted horticultural medium for over a century.

One of perlite’s biggest advantages is its balanced moisture and oxygen retention. Since it’s pH-neutral and contains no nutrients, it gives you full control over feeding. However, this also means you’ll need to provide all necessary nutrients through water-soluble fertilizers.

Another reason perlite is popular is that it prevents drainage and runoff issues, making it an easy-to-manage medium, especially for beginners. Its aeration properties also help reduce the risk of root rot when used correctly.

That said, perlite has a few drawbacks. If not monitored properly, too much of it can dry out roots, while too little can cause excessive moisture buildup, leading to rot. Additionally, fine perlite particles can become airborne and may cause irritation if inhaled, so wearing a mask while handling it is recommended.

While it’s great for hydroponics, perlite is best used in combination with other mediums, such as coco coir or vermiculite, rather than as a standalone option.

5. Mopito

Mopito is a lesser-known yet highly effective hydroponic medium, especially popular in Dutch cultivation circles. It’s a mix of coco coir and Rockwool, combining the best features of both — excellent aeration and superior moisture retention.

Unlike traditional Rockwool or coco coir, mopito comes in flake form, which provides unique benefits:

• Improved oxygenation in the root zone, promoting healthier root growth
• Easy plant movement, allowing you to check root health by simply picking up the plant
• Faster water absorption, reducing the risk of underwatering

However, mopito isn’t perfect. Like Rockwool, it requires pre-treatment before transplanting seedlings. Also, handling it incorrectly — such as pressing it too hard — can cause it to crumble, which may stress the roots.

If you're looking for a medium that combines sustainability with high performance, mopito is a solid choice, provided you handle it with care.

6. Hemp Fiber

Hemp fiber is a unique and eco-friendly hydroponic medium made from cannabis plant fibers. Yes, you can grow cannabis in cannabis! This organic material is free from chemicals and heavy metals, making it one of the most sustainable options available.

Hemp fiber stands out because it:

• Encourages fast growth with minimal maintenance
• Holds up well in flood-prone systems
• Requires no preparation or sterilization before reuse

Despite these benefits, there are a couple of downsides. Due to legal restrictions on hemp cultivation, finding hemp fiber in some regions can be challenging. Also, handling raw hemp fiber with bare hands may cause skin irritation.

Overall, if you can source it, hemp fiber is a fantastic choice for growing cannabis if you’re looking for an environmentally friendly and high-performing hydroponic medium.

7. Pumice

If you’re looking for a lightweight, low-maintenance hydroponic medium, pumice might just be your new best friend. This volcanic glass is crushed into tiny, porous pieces, making it an excellent option for hydroponic growers who want something both functional and easy to manage.

One of the biggest perks of pumice is that it’s completely inert. That means it won’t interfere with your nutrient mix, giving you total control over what your plants get. No need for special fertilizers or constant pH adjustments — just mix in your nutrients, and you’re good to go.

Pumice also does a solid job of holding onto water, so you won’t have to top up as frequently as you would with some other hydroponic substrates. However, it doesn’t retain moisture quite as well as alternatives like vermiculite or coco coir, so you might find yourself watering a little more often.

There’s one small downside, though — it can be dusty when dry. If you stir it up too much, you might find yourself in a mini dust storm. To avoid inhaling fine particles, wear a mask and gloves when handling it.

Overall, pumice is a great option if you’re after a straightforward, low-fuss medium that supports strong root development. Just be mindful of its dust and moisture retention, and you’ll be all set.

8. Parboiled Rice Hulls

If sustainability is your thing, parboiled rice hulls might be the perfect hydroponic medium for you. Unlike synthetic options like Rockwool, these are completely biodegradable, breaking down naturally over time — so when your grow cycle is over, you won’t be left with a pile of waste.

Another bonus? They’re incredibly lightweight, making them easy to work with, and they retain a decent amount of water, meaning you won’t have to keep drenching your plants. But, like pumice, rice hulls can be a bit dusty, so wearing a mask and gloves while handling them is a good idea.

One challenge with rice hulls is that they’re not as loose and airy as other substrates, so young cannabis roots might struggle to push through at first. If you’re patient, though, they’ll eventually break through in about three months. That’s why some growers prefer to mix rice hulls with other media to improve aeration and root penetration.

So, if you’re looking for an eco-friendly, biodegradable medium that retains moisture well, rice hulls are a great choice. Just be aware of the initial rooting challenge and that little bit of dust, and you’ll have a solid, sustainable growing setup.

9. Oasis Cubes

Oasis cubes are a simple yet effective hydroponic medium, perfect for both beginners and experienced growers. These small, individual cubes are filled with an inert growing medium like perlite or vermiculite, allowing plants to develop strong root systems without interference from unwanted nutrients. 

Once you add water, the cubes provide a stable environment where your cannabis plants can absorb everything they need to thrive.

One of the biggest perks of Oasis cubes is their portability. Need to move your plants indoors for the winter? No problem. Want to rearrange your setup? Easy. They're lightweight and compact, making them super convenient. Plus, setting them up is a breeze — just add water, pop in your plants, and you're good to go.

However, they do have some downsides. Since they're not very deep, they’re not ideal for plants that need a lot of root space. They also require frequent watering because water evaporates quickly from the cubes. Skip a day or two, and your plants might dry out completely.

Another issue is the lack of drainage. Since there are no holes at the bottom, you need to be careful when adding nutrient solutions — too much, and your plant roots could soak up excess fertilizer, which can cause burns. Regular checks for pests like spider mites are also necessary to keep your plants healthy.

Overall, Oasis cubes are an excellent option if you want a low-maintenance, portable hydroponic setup. Just be prepared for frequent watering and careful nutrient management.

10. Rocks and Gravel

If you’re looking for a no-fuss hydroponic medium, rocks, and gravel might be just what you need. This classic choice is completely inert, meaning it won’t mess with your nutrient mix or require special pH adjustments. It’s simple, affordable, and gets the job done.

One major advantage of using rocks and gravel is their ability to support strong root growth. Since they don’t hold onto roots, plants can easily spread through the medium, making them great for ebb-and-flow systems where water moves through different layers. 

That said, rocks and gravel do have a few downsides. They don’t hold water as well as other mediums like coco coir or vermiculite, so you’ll need to water more frequently. And if you’re stirring things up, expect some dust — so wearing a mask and gloves while handling them is a smart move.

Despite these minor drawbacks, rocks and gravel remain a solid (literally) choice for hydroponic cannabis growers looking for a simple, cost-effective medium. Just keep an eye on your watering schedule, and you’ll have a sturdy, reliable setup.

How to Prepare & Maintain Hydroponic Substrates

Hydroponic substrates help to anchor plants in place, provide aeration, and hold moisture for the plant.  But, to optimise plant health and the efficiency of the system, proper preparation and maintenance are essential. You must pre-treat and sterilize the substrate before use and also continuously monitor for algae and pathogens. 

1. Pre-Treatment & Sterilization

Your chosen substrate must be subjected to pre-treatment and sterilization before its introduction in the hydroponic system. This will remove dust, bacteria, fungus, salts, etc. Some substrates also need pH balancing to avoid interfering with the absorption of nutrients by the plant. If you get your substrate ready properly, it helps the roots grow, prevents disease and keeps the plant stable. Here's how you can pre-treat different hydroponic substrates:

Rockwool

Rockwool can cause nutrient lockout because it has an alkaline pH ranging between 7.0 to 8.0. It creates fine fibers that can irritate your skin, eyes, and lungs, so handle it carefully. Unconditioned Rockwool causes a water retention issue that can create excess moisture around roots.

How to Pre-Treat Rockwool

1. When handling dry Rockwool, always wear gloves and a mask to prevent any irritation.
2. pH Adjustment Soak: Fill a container with water with a pH of 5.5 – 6.0 (use pH-down solution if necessary).  
3. To neutralize the alkalinity, soak Rockwool for 24 hours. 
4. Give it a clean rinse after soaking it in clean water to take off the dust and fibers.
5. Let the excess water drain out before placing in the hydroponic system. Excess water can produce waterlogging.
6. If you like to reuse Rockwool, then soak it in hydrogen peroxide (3%) or weak bleach solution (1:10 ratio) and rinse thoroughly. Don’t squeeze too much, as this will damage Rockwool’s structure and reduce the aeration capacity.

Clay Pellets (LECA - Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate)

New clay pellets usually have dust and other debris in them, so you must pretreat them. Their pH might be mildly above neutral, which means the pH is above 7.0. Some clay pellets can hold on to excess salts if not rinsed.

How to Pre-Treat Clay Pellets

1. Put the pellets in a big container and rinse them with running water. Keep stirring until the water is clear and the dust is gone.
2. Soak for full saturation by putting the pellets in a bucket of water for a minimum of 24 hours, although this is optional. 
3. Let it soak in hydrogen peroxide(3%) for 15–30 minutes to kill the bacteria. This is optional but a good step to ensure everyone is clean. Alternatively, boiling the pellets for 10–15 minutes will do the job. Rinse it once more and let the pellets drench before you use them. To stop the roots from rotting and diseases from building up, clean the clay pellets thoroughly if you’re reusing them between plant cycles.
4. To sterilize used pellets, you can bake them at 250°F (120°C) for around 30 minutes.

Coconut Coir (Coco Peat)

Although you don't need to pretreat high-quality coir that's devoid of salts, some types will have to be pretreated as they may interfere with the plant's growth due to high levels of salts. Coir without buffering competes with plant roots for calcium and magnesium, leading to deficiencies. If not prepared properly, fine coconut fibers can compact and reduce aeration.

How to Pre-Treat Coco Coir

1. First, put the coconut coir in a container and wash it thoroughly using fresh water. If using unprocessed or brick coir, rinse it several times.
2. Next, put the coir into a solution of Cal-Mag supplement (calcium and magnesium) for a few hours. This stops coir from tying up calcium and magnesium, making them unavailable for the plant.
3. Remove excess water and allow the coir to drain well before using as it can get over-saturated. 
4. To prevent issues, avoid cheap coconut coir as they have a high sodium percentage. To improve aeration, some growers add perlite to coco coir.

Perlite & Vermiculite

These substrates are dusty, and fine particles can block hydroponic pumps or filters, which is why you'll need to pretreat them. Perlite is mostly sterile, but it can have traces from production. But, when it holds too much moisture, fungal problems can happen.

How to Pre-Treat Perlite and Vermiculite

1. Use a mesh sieve to wash perlite or vermiculite in running water. Continue rinsing until the water runs clear.
2. Next, submerge in a solution of hydrogen peroxide or bleach in water. Another option is to steam or bake perlite at 250°F (120°C) for 30 minutes.
3. Ensure that the perlite or vermiculite is completely dry before you use it. Use coarse perlite for better aeration in hydroponics.
4. Mix perlite with other substrates like coco peat to aid in drainage.

Peat Moss

Peat moss is acidic, with a pH between 3.0 to 4.0, which can interfere with nutrient uptake, so you'll need to pretreat them. Before using it, moistening it can improve its water holding capacity.

How to Pre-Treat Peat Moss

1. Combine hydrated dolomitic limestone with the peat moss to raise pH 5.5 to 6.5. Usually, the ratio is 1-2 teaspoons of lime per gallon of peat moss. 
2. Slowly add water while stirring until moist but not soggy. Let it sit for 1 day for buffering. 
3. To improve aeration, peat moss is usually mixed with perlite or vermiculite. 

Growstones & Sand

Since growstones and sand may have dust and microbes in them, you'll need to pretreat them. Sand can become compacted very easily, limiting oxygen.

How to Pre-Treat Growstones and Sand

1. Rinse with water until all fine particles are removed. Stir well while washing to separate any loose debris.
2. Next, soak in a 1:10 bleach solution for half an hour and rinse well. Another option is soaking in hydrogen peroxide (3%) for 15 minutes.

In hydroponics, fine sand should not be used as it compacts and restricts the roots.

• Preventing Algae & Pathogens

Algae and harmful pathogens can make the plant sick, lower oxygen levels, and clog hydroponic systems, impacting plant growth and causing loss of yields. As hydroponics systems use nutrient rich water, they will naturally breed bacteria, and you must prevent them proactively. You can minimize the risk of contamination in your hydroponic system with light control, proper airflow, beneficial microbes, regular clean-ups, and management of the environment.

Reducing Light Exposure

Algae can become an issue when conditions contain light, moisture, and nutrients. Once they establish themselves, they can:

• Lower oxygen concentrations and cause the plant roots to suffocate.
• Create swings in pH that block nutrients.
• Obstruct pumps, filters, and tubing to decrease system efficiency.

How to Prevent Light Exposure

1. Use Opaque Containers & Reservoirs

• Preventing light from reaching nutrient reservoirs will prevent algae from growing.
• Use non-clear containers that don't let light through.
• Cover transparent containers with black plastic, aluminum foil, or reflective insulation.

2. Cover Exposed Substrates & Water Surfaces.

• To prevent algae blooms from forming on water surfaces, you can use floating covers like Styrofoam boards or plastic sheeting. 
• Try using mulch, cloth covers, or different layers of substrate to stop light from getting through.

3. Minimize Light Leaks in Grow Rooms or Greenhouses

• Make sure grow lights are not pointing at nutrient reservoirs and exposed water.
• Use light-blocking barriers around the system.
• If your system has an algae outbreak, reduce their exposure right away and cover them with light-blocking film so that no light passes through.

Maintaining Proper Airflow & Drainage

Still water and bad airflow help bacteria, fungi, and pathogens flourish and cause the roots to rot, and you'll have to struggle with mold and mildew. It is important to provide enough oxygen and drainage to keep roots healthy.

How to Improve Airflow & Drainage

1. Use Air Stones & Air Pumps

• Oxygen-rich water stops anaerobic bacteria that may cause root diseases like pythium. 
• Place air stones in reservoirs to increase oxygenation and avoid water stagnation.

2. Ensure Proper Drainage in Growing Media

• Water must drain unrestricted through substrates to avoid waterlogging and stagnation.
• Don’t overwater, as growing media like coconut coir and Rockwool retain too much moisture.

3. Promote Air Circulation

• Using oscillating fans can help to decrease humidity build-up. This helps with preventing the formation of mold and/or fungus.
• Space your plants adequately to allow air to move around the leaves and roots.
• If you're using Deep Water Culture (DWC) or NFT systems, always check that the water is moving to prevent stagnant zones, which are favourable to pathogens.

Using Beneficial Microbes

You can also use biological control rather than depending only on chemical sterilization to prevent pathogens. There are a lot of things beneficial microbes can do, including: 

• Fights diseases by competing with harmful bacteria and fungi.
• Enhance nutrient absorption and root health through symbiotic relationships.
• They will breakdown organic residue and reduce biofilm in hydro’s.

Here are a few types of common beneficial microbes you can use for hydroponics: 

1. Mycorrhizal Fungi

• Enhance root absorption of water and nutrients
• Provides protection against soilborne pathogens

2. Trichoderma

• Bio-fungi that inhibit root rot and damping off disease. 
• Boosts plant immune responses.

3. Bacillus subtilis & Bacillus amyloliquefaciens

• Prevents Pythium (root rot) and Fusarium (wilt diseases)
• Creates substances that stop harmful microbes

How to Apply Beneficial Microbes

• Directly inoculate roots with microbial solutions.
• Add microbial teas to nutrient reservoirs weekly.
• Utilize biostimulants that are safe for hydroponics and contain live microbial cultures. 
• Try to keep the pH & temperature stable to not affect beneficial microbe activity.

Regular System Cleaning

If left uncleaned regularly, organic chaff, biofilm, and algae will start to accumulate in your hydroponics system, causing blocked lines, equipment failures, and bacterial growth. Having a cleaning schedule in place prevents failures and diseases.

Best Cleaning Practices

Hydrogen Peroxide (H₂O₂) Flush

Every two to four weeks, flush the system with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution. It kills harmful bacteria and fungus and increases the oxygen level in water.

1. Bleach Solution Cleaning

• For a thorough clean, use 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.
• After placing the solution in the system, allow it to sit 15–30 minutes and thoroughly rinse with clean water.

2. Scrub the System Parts Manually

• Scrub the tubing, pumps, reservoirs, and containers to remove slime and other buildups.
• Let the filters and tubes soak in vinegar or citric acid to get rid of mineral deposits. 

3. Sterilizing Reused Substrates

• After each planting process, rinse and sterilize any growing media and vessel to kill any leftover pathogens.
• Always disinfect your tools and hands before touching your plants.

Summary: Your Guide to Hydroponic Substrates

At the end of the day, choosing the right hydroponic cannabis substrate is like picking the right shoes for a marathon — go with the wrong one, and your plants will struggle before they even reach the finish line. 

Some mediums, like Rockwool, give you precise control over nutrients but require careful handling. Others, like clay pellets, keep things breathable but need frequent watering. The key is finding the perfect balance between stability, moisture retention, oxygenation, and nutrient delivery.

Remember, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. Your choice depends on your hydroponic system, your feeding habits, and how much time you’re willing to dedicate to maintenance. 

Want something sustainable? Coco coir or hemp fiber might be your best bet. Need a rock-solid foundation with excellent drainage? Expanded clay pellets have you covered.

Whatever you choose, remember: hydroponics isn’t just about eliminating soil — it’s about optimizing growth. With the right substrate, your plants won’t just survive; they’ll thrive. So experiment, tweak, and refine your setup because once you find that sweet spot, your hydro garden will reward you with awesome growth and top-tier yields.