The plant is now becoming more and more mature, I have started to discontinue the fertilizer and only water with CalMag fertilizer, and very little at that. The color of the leaves now clearly changes to purple. The smell is sweet but still slightly citrusy. The plant will now be harvested in about 10 days. Ph value, Dli and ppfd still the same Flowering day: 56

You can really start to see the buds forming. I was still on preflower nutrients on cruise control until the buds get more dense still no smell

Day 70: Want to know how the trichomes are looking on my OG Kush, they look pretty clear to me but not 100%🤷‍♂️🏼 any feedback would be great, this OG is about 10 weeks old from seed, there was some temp issues, and nutrients locks but still going strong I believe.

For this week, since its second week of bloom, will give it a P boost to the 1st gen mother to make sure she knows it's time to switch gears and flower. So taking out Flora Bloom and added dry Koolbloom which is 1-42-22 450PPM and also added 100 PPM of Flora Grow and 100 of CaMg for my main macro/supplement. Will be doing silica every other week and Hydro guard every week (since I found brown slime) Will resume with Flora Bloom next week. Been only doing Hydro for cloning and vegging so its my first time encountering brown Slime. Anyone know how I can get rid of it? What I know... - Need to lower PH to closer to 5-5.5 from 6.0 - Added Hydro Guard to fight slim - Minimize Air Stone duration - Been having it on pretty long because I have one large pump and I use it to brew Compost tea for my organic grow. - Need to minimize light penetration to resi - I have a perforated plastic cover laying around the house and I have been using that to cover the resi and sometime I even forget to put it on. Anything else? I run totally chemical nutes from GH Flora Series. And I have been sharing the PH and PPM meter with my organic nuets which I brew for 36 hours before use. Maybe some of that got contaminated thru that? Cause I have been using the same bucket system (without res) to raise my mothers for almost 7 months already and never encounter any slim before. I think I finally understand what tops are LOL: So please correct me if I am wrong... What I understand: - All tops large or small will "stretch" at the first weeks of flowering - Most of the "stretch" only occurs at the tops - The "stretch" will determine the length of that bud - The "stretch" should be as high as possible BUT with short distances between the NEW internodes that develop during that period. for a large and dense bud. - Don't get confused with stretch that cannabis experience under low light. Happy Grower Brothers and Sisters BM 4TwenTee

OK so I think I had a nute burn problem, this week they are on pure water and seem to be perking up a lot more now. Punch 2 has deffo put more on in buds, Punch 2 seems to be lagging idk. Anyway that's it for this week! I actually only have 2 more weeks to finish them off😭 I don't think I'm going to have enough time.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

2024 October 20: Oo my god

Week 12 Update — Gorilla Zkittlez Auto (FastBuds) Grower: Stoney Stark / Little Lilly Farms Medium: Scientetics Coco Stage: Late Flower / Ripening Status: Days from harvest ⸻ Overall Plant Status Week 12 marks the final stretch before harvest. Nutrient uptake has noticeably slowed, which is expected at this stage as the plant shifts energy away from vegetative processes and into final resin and terpene development. Trichomes are almost entirely cloudy, with harvest planned once approximately 15–20% amber is reached. Natural senescence has begun, with leaf fade becoming visible. Buds are fully formed, swollen, and resin production appears to be peaking. ⸻ Feed & Maintenance Log (Final Week) 12/6 — Late Flower Feed 1 gal RO | pH 6.0 | 600 ppm • 4 ml Green Sensation • 0.5 ml Silicium Bloom • 18 ml Coco B • 4 ml Pure Zym • 5 ml Ruby Fulvic • 6 ml Photo+ • ½ tsp Recharge Purpose at this stage: • Green Sensation: Low-dose PK and carbohydrate source to support final bud density and resin production without pushing excess nutrients. • Silicium Bloom: Maintains cell wall strength and stress resistance late into flower. • Coco B: Provides potassium-heavy nutrition to support terpene production and final swelling. • Pure Zym: Breaks down dead root matter, keeping the root zone clean as uptake slows. • Ruby Fulvic: Improves micronutrient transport and overall nutrient efficiency. • Photo+: Enhances photosynthesis efficiency during peak resin production. • Recharge: Supports microbial life to keep nutrient availability high despite reduced feeding. ⸻ 12/7 — Maintenance & Reset • Mild defoliation • Reservoir cleaned and remaining solution dumped Fresh mix: 1 gal RO | pH 6.1 | 500 ppm • 2 ml Green Sensation • 14 ml Coco B • 4 ml Pure Zym • 5 ml Ruby Fulvic Purpose at this stage: • Reduced EC to match slowing uptake. • Focused on potassium, enzyme activity, and nutrient mobility rather than growth. ⸻ 12/8 — Observation • Senescence becoming visible • Lower leaves beginning to fade naturally This is a healthy sign of nutrient drawdown and internal remobilization late in flower. ⸻ 12/9 — Reduced Uptake Feed 1 gal RO | pH 6.2 | 366 ppm • 2 ml Green Sensation • 12 ml Coco B • 4 ml Pure Zym • 5 ml Ruby Fulvic Purpose at this stage: • Further reduction in nutrient strength to avoid salt buildup. • Supporting resin maturation rather than biomass growth. ⸻ 12/11 — Ripening Additives 1 gal RO | pH & ppm not measured • 10 ml Winter Frost • 5 ml Car-Bou-Naria • 5 ml Ruby Fulvic Purpose at this stage: • Winter Frost: Signals the plant to finish strong by accelerating ripening, resin production, and terpene expression. • Car-Bou-Naria: Provides readily available carbohydrates to fuel final metabolic processes without adding nitrogen. • Ruby Fulvic: Maintains nutrient mobility even with minimal feeding. ⸻ 12/12 — Final Low-EC Feed 1 gal RO | pH 6.0 | 255 ppm • 10 ml Winter Frost • 5 ml Car-Bou-Naria • 5 ml Ruby Fulvic • 4 ml Pure Zym Purpose at this stage: • Extremely light feeding to support ripening while allowing the plant to finish clean. • Encourages full terpene and cannabinoid expression without pushing nutrients. ⸻ Harvest Outlook • Trichomes: Nearly 100% cloudy • Target harvest: 15–20% amber • Plant is in full ripening mode with minimal nutrient demand • Senescence progressing naturally This run is finishing exactly how a dialed-in coco grow should — controlled fade, clean root zone, and intentional nutrient tapering leading into harvest.

First day switch to 12/12 seeing white specks on leaves.

Started flushing the biggest plant today the should have about another week & half left on it, all the other ones are still clear & cloudy! Fingers crossed everything goes good through harvest I have never flushed or done any of the harvest or cure process😅😬

About that time !!!!

Привет друзья. Моей растихе сегодня 88 дней. Растение пришло в себя. 20.10 буду переводить на цвет. Начал применять LST технику на 19 дне и продалжаю применять её через день, а 18 августа добавил ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ С 20.08 ДЕФОЛИЗАЦИЮ делаю каждые 3,4 дня С 20.08 LST технику делаю каждые 4.6 дней На сегодняшний день влажность 54% 5.09.2023 заметил высокий Ph 7.9 С 48 дня Ph не ниже 5.8 На сегодняшний день Ph 6.0 Начал кормить с 60 дня Canna Terra Vega PPM 450 Погладитель влажности хорошо справляется со своей задачей. Рекомендую Всем мира и добра! Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀#Cali Buds

Hey guys . My cutting heating broke 3-4 weeks ago, which was fixed immediately and everything went wonderfully. Now, 3 days ago, the central heating broke down in the entire room, so that at night I only have temperatures of around 13 degrees :-( . One or the other lady is slowly starting to see a phosphorus blockage, as this can no longer be absorbed at temperatures below 15 degrees, like many other nutrients :-( . A friend looked at the heating yesterday and came to the conclusion that a real company had to do it, which is by no means possible for a stranger to enter my room. I quickly ordered heating mats for all the boxes so that the ladies could at least get warm feet. That's all I have this winter full can do . Let's hope everything will be fine 🙏🏻. As soon as the heating mats are attached in the coming days, I will post them in the pictures. Now for the update. Despite the severe cold, the ladies are still doing well and have made good progres . The ladies only had to be watered once this week, each time with 1 l, because it absorbs the water very slowly because of the cold and I don't want to overwater it. I took every single plant in the pot to take a close look at their roots. These are snow white and look very healthy 🙏🏻. It was also the last time neem oil sprayed so that the last trips are finally gone. Otherwise everything was checked and a lot of planning was done, like I do with the heating mats. Since a friend had the same problem in one winter and the heating mats got 10 degrees plus on the pots, I am very confident that it will at least bring something for the last cold month 😃 🙏🏻. I'll start flowering tomorrow by switching to 12 / 12 h because the ladies mustn't get too high because the small flowering tent is only 160 cm high :-) until then have fun and stay healthy 🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.exoticseed.eu/ Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

My 4 plants are still there, with the banana as a smile 🍌😁 I continue the defoliation, I wonder if I'm not doing a little too much sometimes.. We will soon see the result 🌗Switching to flowering this week, I reduced the length of the day by 1 hour each day until reaching 12 hours night time / 12 hours daylight on the 33rd day!🌞 🌺On the 33rd day I apply a layer of organic nutrients mixed with a little soil that I add to the top of each pot. I added 35 grams of BioBloom to each of my pots🌺 (Pot of 7 Liters / 2 gallons) ------------------------------------------------------------ 💧Watering I water all my pots the same day but with more or less water. Simply by lifting them; A light pot is a dry pot and will need more water, A heavy pot is a wet pot and will need less water. On average I water each pot with: Day 29 : 0.5 L Day 33 : 1 L with 0.8 grams of bio enhancer/L I use tap water, adjust the ph to around 6 and water ------------------------------------------------------------ 🔥❄️Temperature of the week : Day : 19-23°C (Humidity : 65-80%) Night : 14-17°C (Humidity : 75-85%) Outside the tent it is around 16°C with 70% humidity The humidity is a little too high, I hope it will drop a little 🙏 ------------------------------------------------------------ 🚀Equipment of the week ⭐️ : Light FC3000 Mars hydro. power 95% at 50cm Extractor 6 inch Mars Hydro. power 1/10. ON 24/24h 2 fans to circulate the air inside the tent. Each on for 30 minutes then off for 1 hour. this rhythm repeats itself in a loop I'm removing my heat mat this week. ------------------------------------------------------------ 📜Links : 🌱Banana Krumble seeds : 👇 https://shop.greenhouseseeds.nl/feminised-cannabis-seeds/usa-genetics/banana-krumble/ Mars Hydro : 5% off with my discount code "houstone5" 💪 https://www.mars-hydro.com/?acc=hou-stone 👨‍🚀My Instagram❤️️: https://www.instagram.com/hou_stone420/ ------------------------------------------------------------ Thanks for your visit😀💚

Всем тем, кто следит за мной здоровья и удачи, надеюсь вы в безопасности. Наступило время вновь обновить «HiFi 4G» от «Dutch Passion» в далёких генах которого есть Fire OG. Уже четвёртая неделя от прорастания семечек. Прогресс на лицо. Я планирую выращивать клонов с нижних веток, именно поэтому я сделал дефолиацию на ранней стадии и не стал формировать крону, так как нижние ветки растения будут клонированы. Дефолиация полезна не только тем, что открывает свет боковым веткам, но также огромные листьев не забирают важные гормоны роста. В этот раз не стал добавлять какие-либо удобрения, а пролил обычной водой с пониженным PH. Так же я подключил дополнительное освещенье полный спектр LED по 27W. Теперь я оставлю растение в покое и буду ждать, когда отрастут ветки на клонирование. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- To all those who follow me health and good luck, I hope you are safe. It's time to re-update "HiFi 4G" from "Dutch Passion" in the distant genes of which there is Fire OG. It is already the fourth week from the germination of seeds. Progress on the face. I plan to grow clones from the lower branches, which is why I did defoliation at an early stage and did not form a crown, since the lower branches of the plant will be cloned. Defoliation is useful not only because it opens the light to the side branches, but also because the leaves do not take away important growth hormones. This time I did not add any fertilizers, but spilled it with ordinary water with a low PH. I also connected additional lighting with a full range of 27W LED. Now I will leave the plant alone and wait for the branches to grow for cloning.

Kinda left the diary forgotten but hopefully for the next ones i should be more consistent.

Removed all the LST clips and did a very light defoliation She is stacking up very nicely. At least a couple weeks left until chop. I’m gonna feed for the next 10 days and then damper off and begin to flush next week.