against better judgement i topped each of the main branches on day 4 of flower. we will see if she responds negatively but i didn’t want to risk the height

The buds are becoming every day bigger and hairy and some trichomes starting to develop quite nice. the Smell is not so strong at the moment perfectly manageable by the carbon filter. I'm still struggling with some nutes and ph stress but the plant seems to keep growing. I'm gonna flush with 20 l at 1.2 EC and ph 6.6 and letting her dry for 5 days and then ill give her a boost of 1.8ec so that lots of oxygen goes to the roots.

Day 21 - ThunderHaze Auto This plant looks like it’s coming along just fine; she looks really healthy and all new growth looks free of burns so I’m going to start feeding nutes again this week. If the lower nodes branch out far enough I will begin LST'ing with 6” garden staples. Technique: Topped on day 18 and seems to have handled it fine. Light: MarsHydro 300 set at 15" above plant providing about ~28,000 LUX Watering/Nutrients: plain RO water Environment: 4x2 Grow Tent. Temps low of 68 - high of 91 with RH of 80% Soil: ~6 gallons of Foxfarm Ocean Forest w/ 4 extra quarts of perlite added. If you see anywhere that you think I can improve please drop a comment – thanks for reading

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Frostbanger Plants 1-6 Week 9 May 18– 24 FLOWER 5 Nutrients : 3 gal GH Micro 20 ml GH Gro 10 ml GH Bloom 30ml CalMag 15 ml Recharge 10ml Green sensation 15ml Power buds 7.5 ml 5/18 PH 6.67, PPM 935, temp 68.5 1 ltr each 5/20 PH 6.67, PPM 1330, temp 68.5 2ltr each 5/23 PH 6.6, PPM 1570, temp 68.5 2ltr each 5/24 pics & vid Since all 6 gals are getting frosty, I did some trichome pics. The statistics on Frostbanger indicate 50-day flower. Pics show mostly clear and milky. There are a few with amber trichs and many orange pistils indicating maturation. At least 3 more weeks for maturity on these gals. I continue manual control of the environment and using 3 circulating fans and the 4” exhaust vent from my 3x3. I have the AC pushing air in and the exhaust pulling air out. This creates a neutral pressure tent environment-neither positive nor negative. It looks like growth has stopped and plant height has been reached. Now is the time for buds to fatten and frost up. All 6 of them are short remaining less than 3 ft. They range from 15 to 31 inches. #4, 5 &6 are showing some fade, particularly #4. Upon opening the tent, a melon smell comes off the buds if I get close, and more stickiness was observed during the process of defoliation. They are living up to the new strain’s name. #5 is the frostiest followed by #2. Wow week 3 of flower and that much frost already. Before FastBuds announced the strain name and characteristics, I was disappointed that FBA2502 could be an indica sleepy strain but the universe provides what you need at the time. The new strain profile indicates a whopping 29%THC with mainly sativa uplifting, euphoric, social effects with sweet fruity flavors which I love and enjoy. In addition, I recently bought a dap press and this strain is frosty and resinous. She will be great to press for live rosin. FBA2502 is FROSTBANGER. Meet Frostbanger Auto, an autoflowering and Indica-leaning hybrid packing a staggeringly high THC content averaging 29%, making this one of the most potent strains on the market. It was created by Fast Buds through crossbreeding Gorilla Glue and Chemdawg, two equally iconic strains. Growers must know that these difficult-to-grow plants will pose specific challenges in terms of environmental control and nutrition, making them best suited for cultivators with some experience under their belt. The flowering cycle is short, averaging only 50 days, and yields are usually around 300g/m². The Frostbanger Auto flavor and aroma are both mouthwatering with a delightful combination of sweet, fruity, and flowery notes. The high is mainly Sativa-driven with uplifting and happiness-inducing effects that lead to euphoria and a general sense of well-being. You might feel sociable and talkative, but too spacey to say something. Following this surge of energy comes a deepening sense of relaxation, leaving you sedated and completely at ease with the world. Due to its potency and these long-lasting effects, medical patients hail Frostbanger Auto for treating chronic pain, stress, and even depression. Measurements: #1 15” #2 20” #3 17” #4 30” #5 31” #6 24” P.S I added a no churn ice cream recipe in week 4 of Natronas recipes. It is easy 3 ingredients. I bought Mango puree instead of fresh and reduced that to reduce water content. Try it. 😋 Your likes and comments are appreciated. Thanks for stopping by. Growers love 💚🌿 💫Natrona💫

Que hay de nuevo familia, mis green ak xL están dando sus frutos, no veas que bonitas que se están poniendo, floración algo lenta y variedad difícil de cultivar pero que si sabes realmente merece la pena.

I was finally able to sex them all. 1 Male/Hermie, and the rest have beautiful white pistles forming. They are starting to go through a stretch now as well. I also ordered some more grow lights 3 Mars Hydo TS1000's. I can't wait for those to arrive.)

So maybe another 2 weeks? She is super sticky, very beautiful and almost there. I’m getting a little concerned as humidity is super high right now. ✌️🏻💚

My oldest girl had her flush this week and its about time for her to finish up. I will continue the journal for my 2nd oldest so stay tuned!

She is now in preflower showing budsite/tops. So far i counted 10. Still doing LST and did a light defoliation removing maybe 5 leaves. She is growing nicely with a decently even canopy. I have started 1/4 strength nutrients. Calmag, fox farms big bloom, and fox farms tiger bloom.

My light fell on my plants yesterday. , the pot of my plant in the first corner was broken, I bought it in a different pot. In my other plant, 2 branches were broken, I taped one of its branches, it became crippled.

Beginning flush, its actually week 12 I think. Missed 2 week's to the flu. The girl's went through some rough patches but not looking to bad considering my issues with LED lost two weeks of prime flowering, had to substitute CFL's for 2 weeks

Well NO ONE on this site reached out to try and help and I was kind of disappointed in that with so many great artists. I had to take my issues over and join ILGM. The veins were dark on MOBY and yellowing from the middle and it turned out to be a potassium deficiency and a potential build up but I don’t have my new ppm meter to get the whole truth. I upped my Demeter’s destiny and my hurculean harvest and let it run off more than usual. This lady is out of lock out and reaching for the sky in one day with leaves coming back to color!!! Hopefully the stall didn’t set me too far back. Going to switch away from the HLG 60 and mars 300 and put them under a brand new HLG 550 v2 this weekend in the main tent!

Привет садовники !!!

Diese Woche brachte sehr viel Regen, stehende Luft und hohe Luftfeuchtigkeit. Um die Schimmelgefahr zu minmieren habe ich einen Ventilator in das Folienzelt gehängt. Hoffentlich wirkt er. Wäre schade wenn die Bubatz vom Schimmel betroffen würde. Ansonsten verdicken und verfestigen sich ihre Buds, der Leittrieb wird immer dicker. Der Test der selbstangesetzten Jauchen geht in eine weitere Woche, Demnächst kommt noch Beinwelljauche hinzu. Ein paar Blätter wurden entfernt. Vielen Dank für euren Besuch mit besten Wünschen für eine weitere erfolgreiche Grow-Woche! Aber um es klar zu sagen, bei dem Wetter, das zur Zeit hier herrscht, ist ein erfolgreiches Anbauen der Auto Candy Bubatz XL in den letzten Blütenwochen im Freien ohne Regenschutz nicht möglich. --- This week brought a lot of rain, stagnant air, and high humidity. To minimize the risk of mold, I hung a fan in the foil tent. Hopefully it will work. It would be a shame if the Bubatz were affected by mold. Otherwise, their buds are thickening and hardening, and the main shoot is getting thicker and thicker. The test of the homemade manure will continue for another week, and comfrey manure will be added soon. A few leaves were removed. Thank you for visiting, and best wishes for another successful week of growing! But to be clear, with the weather we are currently experiencing here, it is not possible to successfully grow Auto Candy Bubatz XL outdoors in the last weeks of flowering without rain protection.

Lollipoped and set for the flowering phase

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis Tout d'abord merci à James de Royal queen seeds de me permettre de faire cette culture Je rappelle je n'utilise que le strict minimum du matériel nécessaire à une culture correcte au prix le plus bas possible MATÉRIEL CONFIGURATION Box 80×80×160 Lampe led greenception GC4 250WATTS Ventilateur à pince 15 watts Xiaomi Deerma humidificateurs 5L Hygrometre thermomètre Extracteur PROFAN 107 m3/h - 100 Prise programmable électronique ×2 1 pot geotextile noir 10 litres (RQS) RQS feeding easy boost organic RQS easy combo tablets Substrat cellmax bio ligthmix Fil de fer et pince coupante Microscope Petite balance de précision CULTURE ÉTAPE PAR ÉTAPE J'ai tout dabord fais germé ma graine avec le easy start de Royal queen seed et je suis agréablement surpris car franchement le taux de réussite est très élevé (9 graines sur 10) simple d'utilisation et très efficace. Une fois la plantule sortie et d'une hauteur de 2 ou 3 centimètres je la prend délicatement et la place directement dans son pot définitif. Je préconise des pots allant entre 10 litres et 15 litres pour des autofloraisons cultivées en intérieur. Le pot aura été préalablement préparé (video dans diarie) avec 50 grammes d'engrais RQS easy boost organic, soit l'équivalent de à peu près 5 grammes par litre de substrat. Je dépose donc la plantule dans son pot définitif je recouvre un peu de avec de terre je tasse légèrement et j'arrose pour garder le substrat humide pas plus Je place ma lampe led 300watts à environ 90 centimètres de la plantule avec un cycle de lumière de 24/24 pendant une semaine. Au début de la semaine 2 le cycle de lumière passera en 20/4 grace a un programmateur car c'est pour moi le cycle de lumière qui offre le meilleur rendement pour une autofloraison. Jour1: léger arrosage Jour2: léger arrosage Jour5: préparation de 3 litres d'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute une tablette grow easy combo RQS ensuite arrosage avec 1,5 litre d'eau ph6.3